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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu
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The car is basically sound. I enjoy it - especially after replacing the OEM Affinity tires by Firehawk SH-30. Just today we discussed with my wife, how much fun is to drive our little Malibu. Even when compared with our newer car, a very fast and comfortable Buick Regal.
However, practically every model have its weak points. For example, with Ford Taurus this is head gasket and mediocre transmission. With 97-98 Malibu - brake rotors and, if equipped with 3.1l V-6 engine, the intake manifold gasket.
Of course this is not as bad as you fear. The brake rotors do not need to be replaced every year, even more "every month". I bought the car with already warped rotors, 15k on odometer, and nevertheless could use them for almost a year and 7-8,000 miles. Replaced at 22k or 23k miles.
Moreover, I believe that we would drive longer before the replacement, if not the accident. When the car was rear-ended by an absent-minded girl, who did about 40 mph, my wife braked strong to spare the car in front of her. ABS had to be repaired. The pads started to scratch rotors the next week after the car returned from the body shop. Looks as they did not inspect the brakes, ABS only.
Currently, two years and 18k later, with 41k on odometer, there is no sign of the warping problem to repeat.
Still, the brake problem is relatively widespread. According to Consumer Reports survey, 10-15% of Malibu developed it during the first two years.
As to the problems with the coolant system (including the intake manifold gasket leak), it happens with at most 5% of cars with the 3.1l engine. More probably with about 2%. Consumer Reports does not give exact numbers, only the range(s).
In other words, it happens often enough to deserve a special check when buying a used Malibu. But definitely not with all cars of the model, not with majority, not even close.
The price overlaps somewhat: a loaded Malibu LS costs about the same as a striped-down Impala.
Personally, I did not like the base Impala. Nor my wife. The engine is not strong enough for the weight. Malibu have much better acceleration. Malibu also is more nimble, and the Malibu brakes much better.
My wife skipped the first turn when test-drove the base Impala, and I had difficulty to turn too. Feel absolutely unsafe. But, probably, the brakes just needed some tuning - the car was just delivered to dealership.
Impala equipped with 3.8l engine, though, is much better car, than Malibu. More firm suspension, good brakes, very good acceleration. Plenty of space. Unfortunately, it costs substantially more.
Know nothing concerning reliability in desert: I live in Connecticut.
katty2u - Having owned some really bad cars in my life, I wouldn't buy a car that gets "below average reliablity" in Consumer Reports. Starting in 1999, the Malibu gets "average reliability". If you're looking for used, I'd try for a 1999 or later.
dottiez1 - I live in the New Orleans area where it gets very hot in the summer. I bought a Grand Prix with a 3.1 L engine. It's the same engine as the Malibu. I noticed that my temperature runs normally at 185 degrees. I'll give my brother a call and ask him what his temp normally runs. (My '91 Grand Am normally ran 160 in the summer.) It's already getting pretty hot here but we're 5 - 10 degrees shy of our summertime highs. I don't know enough about cars to know why some run hotter that others. It could be with the Grand Prix, it's heavier whereas the Malibu is around 300 pounds lighter.
I've heard that Raybestos rotors are pretty good, and I plan on taking the car to Pep Boys for them to change the rotors. But, the cost of these Raybestos rotors is only $125 for both front rotors, including labor. This seems VERY low, and I am not sure whether or not it's a good idea to get these rotors since they are so cheap. Anybody care to give any suggestions?
BTW, the car had warping at 12,000 miles and I had the rotors resurfaced. Only 5,000 miles later, the rotors warped again, but I had neglected to go to the dealer until yesterday at 24,800 miles.
Thanks.
Anyway, if it is a rotor problem, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I should have the dealer install the improved GM rotors or if I would be better off getting after-market ones, such as the Raybestos ones that many members on this board have highly recommended. What's the difference as far as the cost is concerned?
I hope I didn't offend you when I said in another post not to buy a Malibu before 1999.
There was no tracks from braking tires, though, on the pavement. The girl who hit our car was totally absent-minded.
According to my wife (I was not here) it looked as that several cars ahead of her stopped. Up to the intersection a block ahead, on red light. It was a rash time, something like 5pm, with substantial traffic. She checked in the rear view mirror when started braking, and saw the headlights of the cart that hit her couple seconds later.
In reality, it hit our Malibu not once, but twice. The poor girl broke the windshield by her head. Obviously, she did not use the seat belts. Probably, after her car bounced back, she fall back on the gas pedal.
The hits were strong enough that the Malibu hit in its turn the car ahead - an older Accord. Also twice. Even while my wife braked at full force, trying to avoid this.
My wife get a slight injury. Was OK the evening, but the next morning a very strong headache developed. So strong, she could not work - this very unusual for her.
Had some headache and strong pains at neck / back for a whole week, but already could work. Had slight pains / inconvenience the second week. Doctor said this is normal, just muscles. I believe, this kind of injury is named "whiplash" in US.
Our son, than 8 year old, was at the rear seat. Fortunately, he was not injured even slightly.
I believe, our Malibu was not totalled mostly because it was hit by a small light car, an older Sentra. The Sentra most probably was totalled. My wife told that the whole nose part of the car was crushed, and fluids flowed on the street. Several fluids, not only the coolant. Plus the broken windshield. Looked as it does not pay to repair this - after all, how much can cost an older Sentra?
The damage of our Malibu did not look so serious. Mostly the rear bumper and the rear panel - plus the trunk lid did not close well and the rear fenders went down a bit. The front bumper was just scratched. However, it turned to be that the floor of trunk was deformed badly. The body repair costs about $5000, including paint, and took almost month.
At front only the fender cover was replaced. Probably it is easier to replace than to fix the scratches. The rear fender of the Accord ahead had much more damage. Probably, Malibu is made from stronger metal.
It could be that I was hit at a harder impact than 50 mpg. The man that hit me said he was going 50 and I figured that if he was going any faster, the glass would have shattered on my car. This was on the interstate where the speed limit was 50 at the time (back in 1990) but most people go faster.
All in all, I wasn't seriously hurt. I did have some luck with me that day because the gas tank was ruptured. I filled my car up with gas before I left and that may have kept my car from catching on fire since it's suppose the be the combination of gas and oxygen that's so flammable.
As to whether a car is "totalled" or repaired, it depends as much on its age/price, as on the damage. Whis 98 Malibu rear-ended in April 99, it definitely pays to insurance company to cover the $5,000 repair. A 10 year old car, very probably, would be totalled...
That car belonged to my grandmother and passed on to me in 1988. It got me by until I was ready to buy a new one. I had gotten about all the use I could get out of my previous car.
I have a 1998 Malibu that has 42,000 on it and have just had the rotors replaced @ Chevy dealer, but i was just wanting to know What is that AWEFUL shaking/vibratng that is so apparent like at stop lights etc the entire hood is vibrating but when i go it, stops I need to know the cause !! I Want that to be fixed !!! is this a common issue with the early Malibu's ? if so what is the cause ?
Thanks,
Paul
It is me again, last night my brother took his Malibu out and when he got into the car at the end of the night it started then shut of and he tried to jump it an it did the same thing, so he left the car in the parking lot overnight , So we go back to the car the next day and it works fine , just a little sluggish at first, I would like to know what the problem could Be , becasue we are takin the car Wayyyy up to New England in just a few days and we had the car looked over at Chevy and got the rotors replaced and now this , could someone give me any ideas of the cause , before i go to Chevy ( so i dont get ripped off) I was thinking bad/dirty fuel injectors or dirty fuel filter ? ok well any advice would be great !
Thanks,
Paul
The post would probably be within the past 10-15 posts. Since I'm not sure of the exact cost, you may be able to find the post.
1. The brakes cost total $431.70 (or $457.60 after addition of $25.90 sale tax @ 6%), including:
- pads $39.72;
- two rotors @118.59 = $237.18
- labor $155.00
The labor includes diagnostics. The problem with brakes occurred very soon after the car was returned from body shop, and it was not clear at first what happened. The service adviser drove with me, and listened to brakes.
The price probably would be less without the diagnostics.
2. I replaced the rotors at dealership. Richard Chevrolet, Cheshire, CT. Connecticut is expensive state, and dealerships are more expensive than independent.
3. The repair was performed two years ago, 06/03/99. The current prices probably are a bit higher.
However, the manufacturer warranty does not cover brake pads and rotors. Or at least did not cover then. Later GM started to cover rotors, but, I believe, not at 22k miles.
The car was built July 97. We bought it used, with 15k miles, in September 98. The brake pedal pulsated when braking on highway from the first days. Both I and my wife felt it and we discussed the pulsation. Now we understand that rotors were warped, but than we thought that this was how ABS works.
I wrote recently that the car was rear-ended while braking. It happened with 21,200 miles on odometer. I believe, the accident contributed to the brake problem. The rotors died just 700 miles and 20 days after the car was returned from body shop.
By the way, I insisted on checking the brakes while in body shop - exactly because my wife braked hard when the car was hit. According to the records in my file, mechanic aligned wheels and bleed the brake system. But he did not found that the pads will scratch rotors metal on metal just 700 miles later. I believe, he made a mistake.
However, I also have a problem with my car squeaking loudly from underneath while driving down the road at low speeds. The dealer said it was the lower control arms and they said they replaced them; however, driving it from the dealership this morning it was SQUEAKING MORE THAN EVER!! They still have not fixed this problem.
Has anyone else has a problem with the car squeaking and rattling?
There was another squieak a year ago. At low speed, over small bumps. The dealer simply lubed a strut and I did not hear the squeak since. However, it was coming not from under the car, but rather from behind the dash.
I have a 1998 Malibu that has 42,000 on it and have just had the rotors replaced @ Chevy dealer, but i was just wanting to know What is that AWEFUL shaking/vibratng that is so apparent like at stop lights etc the entire hood is vibrating but when i go it, stops I need to know the cause !! I Want that to be fixed !!! is this a common issue with the early Malibu's ? if so what is the cause ?
Thanks,
Paul
I hav a 1998 Malibu 4 cyl and when I cank up their is there ticking noise/sound comming from the car , I have to take the car in the beginning of the work week so we wil see but has anyone had this on their Malibu ?? of so please post and if someone knows what it could be please post.
Thanks,
Paul
I have a slight shake at stops (not nearly as strong) with my older car, Ford Taurus. I found that the shake disappear when switching the gear to "N" (neutral). So it is somehow related to auto transmission idling when braking, e.g. on stop light.
We went through all the brake problems other posting commented on. The AC problems and the shudders, shakes, rust spots, fogged headlight enclosures, mirrors falling off and suspension squeaks.
We now drive this car in Korea, after driving it throughout Europe for 2 years. At autobahn and expressway speeds in Europe the squeaks were not noticeable, but at the snail's pace of Seoul traffic they are turning out to be helpful because they warn the pedestrians of an approaching auto. (The bushings were replaced all around, but after a few days they started chirping as usual).
Unfortunately we had to work with GM dealerships in Europe through the military car sales organization.
But, despite all the trials and tribulations of Maliblue ownership, we really do like the car. It handled the autobahn well, both at high speed and during panic stops. It is great in snow and has never failed to start. The original poor factory paint finish is now hardly noticeable under the layer of Seoul industrial grit that is rubbed in/off daily by our parking garage person.
But even after all the difficulties, I am confident that when we return to the states one of the vehicles in our garage will be a new Malibu.
My car also shakes when I am at a stoplight. Is this just the design of the engine? It is very annoying.
You seem to be educated on the Malibu , do you have any idea on my shaking/vibratng situation while in drive but not moving (Stoplight's) The other issue occurs when I am backing up and the wheel is turned and there is this ticking/clicking sound coming from the front end of my 1998 hope you or someone knows.
Thanks,
Paul
Next Scenario, if you are driving with this condition, check wheel balance or out of round tire condition. Firestone Affinities were bad tires, they wore uneven and were very hard to balance once old.
For the ticking and clicking problems with the wheel turn and backing up, check the CV joints in the front. See if a boot has torn with grease leaking. You may need a new CV joint.
Thanks
At 9000 miles I had a noise in front of my car. When I hit a bump I would get a noise that sounded like a metal tinging noise. The dealer first replaced the lower control arms. Next the dealer replaced the entire power steering rack. Finally on the 3rd try they listened to me and replaced the front struts. The sound was a fluid transfer noise in the right front strut. It is now fine
My moon roof also had an irritating squeak if the car would sit in the sun and heat up. This took 5 visits to dealership. The last thing they did was to totally remove the moon roof and bend the guide rails. Its been very cold in Iowa this spring so I do not know if its repaired.
My car has 18,000 miles now. I just had to have the AC control head replaced, and the turn signals did not always work. The signals were fixed by replacing the hazard lights switch.
This is my first time here but after some reading I now realize I have the piston slap also. If anyone could please tell me where to find the Service Bulletin on this I would appreciate this.
My brakes are feeling spongy also. Does this mean I need a brake job at 18,000 miles?
Though, the same car used to brake only so-so the first month or so when we bought it, and again after the rotors and pads were replaced a year later. Mushy feel.
The brakes needs some time to break-in. If I remember right, about one month. However, probably, it depends on your driving pattern and style. My wife and I drive mostly in city and close suburbs, with longer weekend trips on highways.
Mostly moderate to heavy traffic, with a lot of braking on winding roads, hilly terrains. We work in New Haven CT, and live nearby: this is 80 miles from NY City and 120 miles from Boston.
Though, what you describe (vibration when coming to stop) looks more like ABS is working. I remember something of this kind when the original tires were almost worn-out, especially during rain. Braking improved after replacing the tires.
By the way, I believe that Malibu have disk brakes only on front, the rear being drum.
Plan offer, covering major repairs for a period of 5 years (I'm not
sure why one would want such a plan for a car under warranty?! Strange).
The least expensive option is $800, the most complete plan is $1200.
Is it worth it?
Normally, I wouldnt even consider it, but I'm inclined to do so, as the
3.1 liter V6 engine may have the piston problem mentioned on this board.
Is GM trying to avoid recalls by offering this plan instead?
Thanks very much in advance.
-florin
jcuisinier
Seems like there were a lot of minor problems with the 97 and 98 Malibus-- not that suprising for a new design. the major problems were with the rotors and brakes, and those have been minimized with the newer models.
Are there major problems popping up with the 2001 models?
I'm not clear whether this "piston slap" problem is with the 2001 models, and how prevalent it is. I guess only time will tell how serious it becomes.
I'm guessing a lot of people are having good luck with their 2001 Malibus and are the silent majority.
Any big changes planned for the 2002 models?
thanks.
I thought i as ok a few weeks ago but I have now fallen into Malibu Hell, ok well I I have now taken my 1,000 mile + trip to upstate New York ( That is where i am writing this) well before I left Arkansas we had a new motor mount and a new computer chip put in the Malibu, but the dealer in Little Rock could not locate/find the front end noise / ticking problem so we still took this trip so 1,500 miles later this problem is AWEFUL the car sounds like a popcorn machine so today i hae located a Chevrolet dealer here in New York and boy did they find stuff wron here is what I need!
1. Lower Control Arms ~ $458.00
2. Upper Strut Mounts ~ $312.00
3. Rear Swey Bar Bushings ~ $98.00
4. 4 Wheel Alignment ~ $106.00
GRAND TOTAL = $1,078 with New York Taxes
And now I have the flickering AC unit I will Be driving and the little green light on the AC will go on and off causing major discomfort. Can some one tell me the root of this flickering AC Unit Please , becasue i will have the dealer take A look at it and get it fixed.
Yhank You !
Paul
The problem with the A/C is its control unit--replacing the control unit/panel will fix the problem.
Are you replacing Lower Control Arms on both sides? Where did you get the estimate? I am in upstate New York, too (Albany/Troy), and the dealers around here gave me an estimate of between 310 and 320 dollars + Tax. I need only the Left one, though.
I took it to Salsbury (spelling) in Scotia. WOW is that a correct price ? the $310 $320 I am not for sure what I Need i think both ?? is so Are the left and right diffrent prices? I dunno if i want to go through with this reapir through this dealer I will go to Albany/Troy even through Troy is .... you know not the nicest little town, are their any trustworthy dealers in Schenectady ? but please tell me a good honest dealer here that You have gone to and liked that would really cut down on my nervousness !!! Ohh and on the AC problem how much is that reapair cost ??? thanKs alot !!
Paul
My guess is that the left and right lower control arms probably cost the same. $458 is not too bad if you are having both replaced, but would seem more like a rip-off is you are replacing just one, either left or right.
I purchased my Malibu at DePaula in Albany, but have had my car serviced at three different dealerships since I got it: DePaula (Albany, NY), Portsmouth Chevrolet (Portsmouth, NH--used to work in the area for almost a year and then moved back to NY), and Action Chevrolet (Troy, NY). The people at Portsmouth Chevrolet are the nicest and don't try to rip you off, but I guess it isn't an option. Both DePaula and Action aren't too bad, either.
DePaula gave me an estimte for the same job (Left Lower Control Arms) for $318, but said that they would match up with it after seeing the estimate from Action for $310. I decided to go with Action anyway, since it is closer to my place and that I was treated nicely when I was there. The only downside is that Action needs to have the part ordered, whereas DePaula has them in stock.
By the way, the $310 + tax includes the lower conotrol arm AND wheel alighment.