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The alarm went off again. We had the switch to the trunk disconnected. The alarm went off again. Home and in front of workplace. We had the keypad replaced
with a new one. Alarm went off again. We were told by Lincoln Mercury service managers that the alarm can not be disarmed because it is factory installed.
I would think there has to be some way to turn the darn thing off permanently.
:mad:
One of the Toyota techs (two years ago) told me that the early seat belt sensors were very poor quality and he's replaced a bunch - after having to wait a week for the part(s).
I would have them c/o the computer.
TIA.
Clarke
I see there is a hex drain plug on the transmission pan which allows about 4 quarts to drain out. That looks easy.
In addition, there is a drain on the differential which also requires a hex wrench located sorta above the pan on the transaxle. That looks easy as well.
I am not sure if the differential fill is through the transmission dipstick tube, or if there is another place to fill the differential. That's my question.
I've also been told that the system holds much more than the 4.5 quarts I expect to drain, and that flushing and filling the system with synthetic fluid is the only way to really effectivly change the fluid. Local place wants $199 to do that. Is it necessary? Sound like bunk.
Mine took about 3 quarts. I always used a name brand the standard kind. I myself would not change the fluid type because you will never get it all out then you have a mix.
Are there any known problems with the 2003 model? Given that this was the last year (Sienna got redesigned in 2004), I figured it should have the least amoung of problems.
Thanks!
I have a 2001 Sienna, and I have had on and off starting and stalling problems for the past 3 months. When starting my Sienna, it will just crank but not catching/firing. After a few try and starting, it will run for a second or two, and then stalled.
This behavior was once a week, but now it is almost daily I have this struggle.
In the beginning, I though it was bad gas, so I started using premium.
Then I put in a new battery, and made sure negative ground is not loose.
Then I replaced fuel filter.
Then I decided to get a tune up, just to make sure the plugs are fine.
My problem continues.
Two separate Toyota Dealers were unable to "recreate" the problem because it always starts at dealers. AWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWa!
After reading through this thread, I found several suggestions.
1. Accumulation of carbon or a bad Idle Air Control (IAC) motor?
2. Idle Air Control Value?
3. Accelerator Sensor?
My neighbor has suggested replacing Mass Airflow Sensor.
Please comment.
Thanks and Regards
I went for FIRST "inspection (hoping) and FAILED! with a code of P0420. :mad:
@&^%%.
I went to the internet for answers and read all the possible "solutions" from edmonds.com. Scary very SCARY! Decided to try the disconn. of pos. battery cable for 10 mins. Solution. Restarted and "Check Engine" light had disappeared!
I drove for 25 miles to allegedly "reset things". Returned for SECOND inspection station the next morning.Handed my previous failing paper and was tested. (Free retest) Was told "It's not ready yet. You must've had some work done on it 'cause it reads not ready yet". Yes, said I; some work! but when will it be ready? He told me to "drive it around so the system can recalibrate"
I drove to work (20 miles) with expired tags keeping an eye in the rear view, and dodged a few "sightings". Phew!
Drove the van to a different (THIRD) inspection station during lunch (20 miles/ Total 60 miles). Handed the paper to clerk and (had to pay again) PASSED! Passed!!!!!
I'm good for another year! By then it'll be paid and I will trade it! It's been a great vehicle. We bought it used. Good luck Sienna owners!
My thoughts: These sensors are too sensitive and it's a way to generate revenue all across the board!
Bye!
Did anyone resolve your problem? If so, what did they find??
just wondering where did you get your code reader from and how much did it cost?
Thanks
i think your problem is the former, not the latter.
1. Can't get the power door to close without pushing or pulling it. Found the eraser tip for that. I'm going to try it as soon as the wind dies down and the sun comes up.
2. Can't figure out why the daggone seatbelt light comes on when my passenger puts on her seatbelt. Saw that we are just celebrating the color ORANGE ... and the "seatbelt lady" is our friend. So, HEY! Seatbelt Lady! Our Lady of the Dashboard.
Now for problems three and four ...
3. How do I pull off the door panel on the driver side sliding door to fix the outside door handle gadget inside? Right now I have to open the door from the inside. That is getting on my nerves. How much should that cost? Is there a good cheap way I wouldn't need to do this myself?
4. How do I pull off the door panel on the driver's door to see about replacing the drive motor for the power window. As I said, it is windy and cold and when I put the window down this afternoon, it wouldn't go back up. I waited until my fingers were nearly numb and tried again. It went halfway. Good thing it wasn't raining, huh?? How much should it cost me to fix that? How easy is it? I know how to use a hammer and screw driver. I know the difference between phillips and flat head. I know "righty tighty, lefty loosy." And I know I'm sick of relying on the blind luck with that stupid window.
Thanks for the great knowledge y'all have already shared.
Anybody know someone who needs a van and lives in RTP, NC?? I got a great one!! (At least it WILL be great once I make these repairs) :shades:
its normal for the tranny to delay shifting when the engine is cold. After it warms up (a couple of minutes of slow driving) does it shift normally. If it does then you have a normal operating tranny
I tried another -good- relay, with the same results.
Could it be a problem with the photo sensor on the dash?
I could not find another relay to the headlights.
So, when I sit in the carpool circle, I have to keep 'er runnin' to shut the door completely! But it is working. I'm so excited. Thanks again.
Went to AutoZone today to read more about how to replace the motor for the driver side power window. I don't understand that at all. Something about checking fuses. I can barely follow the diagram that shows which fuse is which and all the thingies are abbreviated.
Isn't there someone who has done this and can tell me what I'm supposed to do? Preferrably with pictures?
Also I would not put premium in. Stick with the 87. I have also had stalling after putting in carb cleaner, the STP type that you can get to put in the gas.
This car seems to have problem when gas is not up to par or over octage. If you clean the IAC (by using carb cleaner to clean the carb area) I think the problem will be fixed for awhile.
If you had transmission done at a different place also get it in writing from them.
The book does not show you how to remove the motor. It does show you how to test the wiring and such. The motor may be very tricky to remove.
By the way while I have the panel off, I will also try to remove some of the dings on the door. Easy access with panel off.
I
The dealer wants like 450.00+ for labor and part. So it is better to try it yourself. As I said I will be trying maybe this weekend. I will post my results.
Also I have a feeling the Siennas have problems with the window motors. I know of others with bad motors. It happened to me right after the 3 year warranty was up.
Since I have had my Sienna so far have had problems but they are minor so far.
That leaves one of 3 things.
1. The wiring to the motor is loose.
2. The window just gets jammed in the bracket and is too tight for the motor to move
3. The motor is shot
Hopefully it is 1 or 3. If the window is getting jammed its beyond our repair and have to have a pro fix it.
Also when I brought my car to Toyota they told me the motor was shot without even opening the panel. I figure they have had problems with the motor in the past.
Toyota dealerships love to hide problems even if you ask the a straight question. ie the scratches on the driver side window. I specifcally asked the dealership to fix my window they blamed it on sand. Now I know that was not true.
Thanks.
This is beyond my abilities. The access window they give you is very limited. It also looks very hard to put back in after you remove it. In fact I don't think I specifically saw the motor itself. It may be a pancake type or it could be higher then I can actually see (It think its higher then I could see). If you can't even see the part its hard to replace. I will see if a local person will install the motor for me at a low rate. Central auto parts has a replacement motor with lifetime warrenty for 81.00. Dealer wants something like 450.00 for parts and labor. I'd rather live with no window on that side instead of paying that.
Shame it seems that the van has had very little problems besides the window motor. Oh yeah and all those scratches on the front windows and scratches on the driver side window. (Cheap windows at Toyota me thinks!!)
What were you thinking driving the car with the light on???
That "turned around and went back" cost you your engine.
It's still mostly their fault, but why oh why did you keep driving.
Click and Clack once said that the oil pressure warning light should not show an oil can, but instead should say "5,000!" so people would pay attention.
I do wish you good luck getting the damage fixed by the mom&pop mechanics. They really should have checked when they were done, or at least been careful.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out, and never ever drive run the engine with the oil light on.
-Mathias
The sound is not very loud. Only noticable when I close the window, shut the radio and ac/heat off. If you get in the car and I don't tell you about it, you will not notice it.
Thanks.
It's amazing how many similar failure modes there are for this vehicle - this board is invaluable.