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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair



  • Problem: Temp Sensor reads too high (esp. summer)

    Hypothesis: Convective and radiated heat fool the sensor and cause high readings. Location of temp sensor(s) is too high and does not get good fresh air flow.

    First Solution: Relocate sensor using available slack in wires and elongated bracket. This was later adopted by Nissan too. RESULTS: Improved performance but still read too high in "city" driving.

    Second Solution: Split wire loom to free up more slack in sensor wires and relocate sensors to right hand bumper opening near fog light. RESULTS: Acceptable readings in most driving conditions (including stop and go). Reading still reads a couple degrees above actual temp.

    Discussion: Wires for sensor exit harness just behind hood latch. Popped the harnes out of slot and peeled tape off harness from latch to RH headlight. The plastic loom is now exposed and the sensor wires can be pulled out up to the RH headlight. Installed protective loom on extra sensor wires and reinstalled main harness to frame. Ran sensor wires to right of radiator w/ wire ties and clamped bracked from first solution to bottom lip of bumper. Sensors now get lots of air flow and are not exposed to nearly as much engine heat.

    Hope this helps anyone interested....
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    How did you "clamp" the bracket in the bumper opening?

    Also, be aware that the sensor's closer proximity to the ground will produce false readings in the summer, when the pavement radiates heat upward. (Ideally, the temp sensor should be located on the tip of your radio antenna, but I guess that would be impractical.)
  • I cheated somewhat, because I used a bolt from my custom radiator protection screen. If you look in the opening, you'll see a black piece of metal (which is the bottom of the bumper). I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bumper, where I secured part of my expanded steel mesh radiator screen.

    "Also, be aware that the sensor's closer proximity to the ground will produce false readings in the summer, when the pavement radiates heat upward."

    YES and NO... my cars have less ground clearance and their sensors are much closer to the ground. The PF location is shielded from direct radiant heat of the road and only sees air temp (and radiant heat from plastic cowling. Hence, I've found the interference is neglibable between 24-in vs. 36-in elevation. The engine heat at the old location made a huge difference.

    Let me know if you have any questions
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    Most Nissans don't have problems. With no problems how can there be solutions.
  • jeckles and xplorx4,

    the temp sensor in my PF has an "ICE" warning light that comes on at certain times during the winter. i assumed that this was a warning about icy roads (since it didn't always come on at the same temperature), and that the sensor was therefore measuring road temperature and possibly air pressure. did i just get some quirky readings and imagine the rest?

    i agree that an ambient air temp sensor is more marketable, but i would find a road temp sensor more useful for the reason mentioned above.

    the best location for an ambient temp sensor on our truck would be somewhere around the rear glass hatch handle. sources of heat like the engine, exhaust system, and road should be avoided for obvious reasons, but so too should air streams lest you get a low reading due to convective currents. obviously, you'll still get some turbulence around the rear hatch, but it will be a lot less than that found in the front, sides, top, etc. well, food for thought.
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    My 2001 LE temp sensor reads "ICE" from +4 C and below. There are no other causes - whether the roads are bare or otherwise.
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    The ice indicator comes on early to worn of ice on bridges,shadow areas on roads ect. It is working ok.
  • duperduper Posts: 127
    I posted this on another forum, but want to share it here.


    My rear hatch squeaks like crazy especially over bumps. I took them out silicon sprayed/WD-40 them but it all comes back a week or so later. I went to the dealer trying to get the new rubber "dovetails" hoping they will help. I talked to the tech and 2 minutes later, he came back with a, guess what, printout TSB for it. I didn't know Nissan has a TSB for rear hatch squeak. Basically, the TSB called for removal of the lower rubber "dovetail" and throw them away. What the heck?
    Overtime, the lower rubber will become harden and when the hard plastic part rubs against it, it makes noise. It seems like a bad design from the start.

    Here's some info on the TSB.

    Classification: BT00-004
    Reference: NTB00-020
    Date: February 23, 2000

    1996-2000 Pathfinder squeak/rattle noise at rear hatch
    Applied Vehicle: 1996-00 Pathfinder (R50)

    The TSB Procedures:
    1. Open rear hatch
    2. Remove screw from the dovetail lower rubber. Discard the dovetail lower rubber.
    3. Clean the body where the dovetail was previously installed then re-install the screw.
    Note: Do not remove the dovetail striker (on the rear hatch).
    4. Repeat steps one and two for the other side.

  • Has anyone had to replace their fog lamp lens. I stopped by my dealer to buy a new one for my 01' SE and they wanted $117.00 for it. SOUNDS STEEP! Any experiences?
  • Been there, done that - no difference whatsoever. Still squeaks EXACTLY the same as it did before. Next time I have the vehicle in for service (my free oil change) I will ask them to look at it to determine what else could be causing it.
  • msomamsoma Posts: 1
    My 99.5 PF died!! The transfer case now has a hole in the side of it. Never been off road, only 30K miles, has been maintained religously. All started the other day, 1st time this season using 4wd...wasn't pretty. I think the noise woke the neighbors. Took it to Nissan, they told me it looked like it was drained....huh? Nissan doesn't want to warranty it...Huh? Took it to 2 other mechanics and a transmission specialist. Looks like the 'chain'(?) inside broke and caused the hole in the TC. On my way tomorrow to ANOTHER Nissan Service Center. Anyone had any problems with this? Any advice?

  • Saw discussion of filters earlier in this forum, and was wondering if anyone is using a Fram replacement? Fram does not list a filter for the 01 PF on their site. I usually do all of my own changes, but while out shopping I noticed that my wife was just under 3k, so being the sport that I am I went to a Jiffy Lube only to be told that they have been having trouble with a filter spec from Nissan and that they couldn't do the change.
  • I seem to get this problem every 5-10k miles, depending on how much I leave my rear hatch open in dirty environments (e.g. ski resorts). Dealer recommended silicone lubricant, which worked the first time, but not the second, so the dealer had to take care of it at my 30k check-up.

    Duper and Kpt_Krunch, keep us updated because my hatch is starting to squeek again at 39k.
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    Try silicone grease instead of spray. It is usually sold as "dielectric grease". It lasts much longer than the spray (I use the spray - LPS C01516 after washing in the winter on all door seals - to "chase away" any remaining water so I can open the doors an hour later ;-). It's a water based formula so it will not disolve the door seal glue (even approved for food processing plants).

    The grease form is applied by rubbing in on with your fingers.
  • brian60brian60 Posts: 76
    Thanks for the heads up on the grease pathstar, I'll try that next time.

    After reading that TSB, I cleaned and lubed (silicone spray) the dovetail striker and striker plate, and now my squeek is gone. Guess I skipped that step last time. Should be good for another 4-5k miles.
  • My '01 LE 'Beeps' occasionally while we are driving. The Service Manager told me that the system was telling me it was not programmed properly, although everything appeared to be functioning, alarm, doors locks etc., and could not be reprogrammed. The 'Problem' was traced to the Smart entrance module. This item was changed and the system reprogrammed. It still Beeps at me. Any suggestions? Another possible connection is that the vehicle will arbitrarily lock itself when the keys are in the ignition, and as I live in desolate southern Saskatchewan I do not relish the thought of having to relieve myself when it is minus 40 degrees and finding myself locked out. I have had another key cut.
  • My 2002 PathfinderLE was towed back to the dealer last night.The stop light fuse blew and the shift lock would not release.I replaced the fuse. The shift lock released but the fuse blew for a second time!I managed to scrounge a 3rd fuse and was able to drive my AWD LE on to the back of a flatbed!(Not that you would but you could)It is now Satutday morning and they can't look at it until Monday.The 1994 Sentra XE I traded(gave away)never once left me stranded.
    Has anyone else had this experience?I'm guessing it has something to do with tow hitch,that I don't need.The first 750 miles were great.
  • 02pfse02pfse Posts: 1
    Please help me, the owner's manual for my 02 SE does not explain this very well:

    1. I would like to display CD text. To change the indicated text, the manual says, "push the TUNE button (up) after pushing the PTY button." A. That's not working. B. Does that mean I'm supposed to be able to somehow enter the name of the Disc title or track title?

    2. I don't understand the point of the AUTOP button. What is the purpose of automatic presets?

    3. Same question as above, only for the PTY button. What is the purpose of the program type button? Why can't I program a radio station with a specific program type?

    Please help me if you can. I'm very new at this and I just picked up the car on Friday. Thank you.
  • smithmdsmithmd Posts: 167
    My '93 Altima did the same thing to me. There should be a "Shift Interlock Release" somewhere right around the shifter. It seems like I could use a key on my Altima (shove the key through the release slot and put the car in neutral, then start the car and drive normally...just don't use park until you're really sure). I haven't needed it on my '99.5 Pathfinder.

    Now that I think about it, my problem wasn't a fuse blowing, it was the actual brake light switch that turned on the brake lights...sometimes they worked, but sometimes they didn't.
  • The brake light fuse popping was caused by a chafed wire on the tow hitch wiring harness.The harness was replaced.While on the lift they noticed one of the rear shocks was leaking.The shock is on back order.The hatch glass was squeaking but thanks to the advice of the Town Hall it has been silenced.1500 miles and still going!
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