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Saab 9-3 Coupe (2002 and earlier)
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Comments
And of course, a 10 year warranty clinched the deal. As a grad student, with a 60 mile commute, I needed something more reliable, but can still flip the seats down and toss my bike in the back.
Yeah, I guess I'm Benedict Arnold, but I drive 5 doors for their practicality and not for their originality.
ealtizer, I would just try the usual routes to sell the car if that's what you want to do: put it in the paper at a fair price, or try to trade it at a dealer. I know what you mean, once you've had a Saab, other cars seem bland and no fun to drive by comparison. Try out a few, I definitely would look at Volkswagens; I don't know what you want to spend, but even a base Golf at like $15k is a pretty nice car.
If you're in a higher range (say 25-30k), look at an Acura CL or TL or a Passat. Jettas are also nice, the Hyundai Elantra GT is nice (4 door hatch), though admittedly people might think it's strange to go from a Saab to a Hyundai. If you can deal with a smallish car, check out the Mazda Protege ES, nice car for the $. I'd say see what you can afford and test drive lots of cars, you will undoubtedly find some pleasant surprises.
I love it when it runs, but it is by far the least reliable car I've owned for the past 20 years.
My advice is to absolutely take the warranty. But here's the important part: the fine print says that "wear items" are excluded and are only covered for 1 year. Demand an *exact* list, by part number, in writing, of each and every one of these excluded parts.
Pay particular attention to the manual transmission. My repair records show different part#'s on each of my rebuilds, which indicate running Engineering design changes.
IMO, the design flaw apparently is in the bearing/bushing system that the clutch cable mechanism activates through inside the housing -over time, it begins to bind until it causes another failure, such as the clutch cable.
Pre-failure symptoms include: a slowly increasing clutch pedal force, a non-smooth feel, and/or a feel that changes figuratively every 10 minutes.
It is as if the self-lubricating bushing isn't self-lubricated and sometimes corrodes, or creates burrs that then cause binding.
Also note that this mechanical failure is **NOT** something that can be caused by the customer's driving habits. Don't even accept that excuse.
The good news is that Saab will sometimes cough up and pay for clutch repairs after the warranty has technically expired. But you'll have to lean on them to do so.
On my engine rebuild, the cause was believing the manual that the oil only needs to be changed every 10K miles. Do it every 5K, use pure synthetic, and find the aftermarket oil filter that's an inch larger in diameter than the Saab OEM filter. Finally, don't rely on the internal display to remind you when to do it...they're notoriously unreliable.
-hh
I just traded out my 1999 9-3 SE auto for a silver 2001 9-3 SE manual...What a difference!!! I never really appreciated manual until now! The power difference is amazing not to mention the increase in fuel economy.... I should have gotten manual before, but I guess I needed to learn from my mistake.
I was also how amazed at how much the dealer got for my car. I thought I was going to eat the trade-in, but instead I was a little above break even. Not bad!
Anyone else out there in Saab land driving a manual? Any advice? Hills are still my achilles heel, but I am getting better...
If any one is looking to get a Saab, I definitely recommend my local dealer (Sewell 800-352-2002) and sales guy (Mike Larkin). They are definitely the best!
Glenn
Glenn
Jon W.
First, my antenna was bent by the car wash attendant. He was poking along listening to Tejano music while cleaning the car and left the radio on when the car went through the wash. I watched from the viewing window in agony as the antenna was bent back.
Second, the right rear door's control rod (rod that connects the external handle to the lock mechanism) was disloged from its housing. This was done by my friend slamming the door as hard as he possibly could.
Other than that, the car was a gem!
But note that I said "system".
In neither of my Saab clutch failures was the problem attributable to the clutch's pressure plate. Nor to User habits/driving styles. Both times, it was a binding and seizing in the actuation system, most likely attributable to a defective bearing or bushing design.
I believe that I mentioned that my 3rd clutch had different part#'s than the 2nd, which had been done in 1999. This says that Saab has running Engineering design changes coming through their logistics support system between 1999 and 2000.
Logically, its expensive to obsolete and supersede parts. These running changes signal a recognized shortcoming...the old designs weren't good enough...that needed correction. It is also not hard to put 2+2 together and realize that this redesign infers that all pre-2000 Saab NG's are technically suspect for the reliability of this particular subsystem. I suspect it is more time based than mileage, so IMO, don't be at all surprised when we hear of 9-3's hitting the same failure mode when they turn 3-4 years old.
Please understand that if I had only had one isolated repair incident, I would accept it as "bad luck" and get on with life. But it hasn't been just one...there have been three, summing to an outlay of $4600 before I even got to 50K miles. Now explain to me why I should even consider buying another one.
-hh
As I mentioned, I have never been enamored with the "throw" of the Saab stick. Someone equated it to driving a school bus. And I agree the problem must be in the design that necessitates a fairly long cable run. However,I am surprised that Saab hasn't improved the ease of shifting markedly over the years. Last year I test drove several new cars, including a Passat and a Saab 9-3, and the Passat won hands down in driveability. As it turned out, we ended up buying a Subaru L station wagon, largely from financial considerations, and it has been an excellent car.
Sometimes the only thing left to do with a trouble-plagued car is to cut your losses and trade it in on something more reliable. Last year we did just that with a troublesome '93 Ford Taurus. If you are looking for a sporty car and space isn't a problem,I would recommend taking a look at the Subaru WRX that just received rave reviews in Car and Driver. In any event, best of luck. -- Jon W.
a) a clicking/pusling sound when I apply the brakes...
b) doesn't take bumps well.......rattles in the back.......(dealer originally installed a few wahsers in the back seat to help the noise.but returned)
c) brakes squeak when applied only in reverse.......
Anybody have something similar????????
thanks
a)Clicking when applying the brake....I think this is the interlock with the transmission...You hear the noise coming from the shifter (auto) when you brake...not sure that this can be fixed but try raising the volume on the stereo...its pretty good in the SE
b)Rattle in the back....first make sure the headrests are completely stable...if they are not locked then they tend to rattle....if this does not work try placing foam under the seat hinges.....if this helps then you can have your dealer fix the hinges....it may also be coming from the hatch area which they found on mine and I thought it was coming from the seat. Try looking on Saabnet.com for fixes for rattles by doing a search under the bulliten boards...lots of useful info on there.
c)Brakes sqeaking...1st I would try blasting the wheels with a garden hose to clean out the brake dust...most of the time its just due to the dust accumulating
Hope you are enjoying your 9-3 SE as much as I am..6700 miles right now and no problems.
As for the gas cap...it is locked when the doors are locked...but opens along with the doors. An armrest can be ordered for the dealer or Saab catalog online...Two are available...get the sliding armrest....the other one is useless..I know I bought that one first. The price of $22700 seems fair ..you may even be able to get the dealer to go lower on your own. Let me know if you do decide to take the plunge and feel free to ask any more questions
Sorry for the delay...was on vacation.
I believe that there's a TSB for reconfiguring the clutch cable linkage, as some binding is a known problem on some 199x years...you should be under warranty, so I'd have the dealer check it out.
The bad news is that it sounds like the same problem I've had (twice). But the good news is that it appears that you can make it go away by re-lubing your system, so I would presume that you could choose to do isolated rennovations so as to narrow down just which part of the linkage is the problem (so that future re-lubes are more focused & faster).
Something else you can try is to sit in one in the showroom floor and compare its pedal push as a way to define "normal". Its not foolproof, but its easy, fast & free. If there's a big difference, speak up and get someone to look at it...and clarify ahead of time that you don't accept any claim that its a "wear item" that is only warrantied for a single year: wear items are high mortality items like brake pads and wiper blades, not stuff like shift linkages and bushings.
Sorry for the delayed response...
Re: Saab reliability - - I agree that in the 1990s Saab reliability was spotty, as per Consumer's Reports (CU), but at the time of my purchase, the problem in the New Gen 900 model hadn't really cropped up yet. I recall reviewing CU and they didn't look that "bad" or "different" from other Euro-makes. Today, though, the trend for those years is pretty obvious. Oh well.
Re: gearbox feel & throws - - - Yeah, its "imprecise". Virtually every time I'd put my Saab in for service when it was under warranty, I'd put poor shifting on the checklist. A good mechanic who is conciencious about it can do a pretty good job to minimize its aggravating aspects and make it tolerable. But it will never be slick.
Overall, I'm afraid that slick, well-engineered solid gearbox linkages are a victim of the demands of the economics of manufacturing. Cable-based shifters are far cheaper to design, install & adjust and are thus all too common today.
Re: dumping lemons - - - So how much you going to offer me for my wonderful car? ;-)
I do have to admit that I'm a bit aggravated that I am going to have to dump this car, roughly 3 years and 50K miles earlier than what I'd normally consider to be acceptable. Its running fine (although it needs YA muffler), but I simply don't feel that I can completely trust it. BTW, is anyone interested in four mounted snow tires?
Re: Subaru WRX? - - - I saw it at the NYC car show this spring and I'm thinking about thinking about it. I used to drive a Subaru (a "FF-1G") many years ago, and while I haven't tried any of them recently, the general trend I've seen through coworkers and rental cars is that Japanese auto's still often mimic US cars in their control system rates and suspension setups, which I personally loathe. I believe that AutoWeek reported that the WRX has been configured significantly "softer" for the US market than its ROW configuration, which I feel is a shame (dammit, at least offer the tight setup as a BTO option!). nevertheless, I figure I'll be stopping in the local dealer for a look-over and test drive, if for no other reason than to complain to them that its not tight enough ;-)
-hh
I have to say I no longer have car envy. Not only is it a car that turns heads (why couldn't I have had this when I was 18 and single) but it is immensly practical with the huge trunk/hatchback. And we have had no problems with three adults on long (4 hours plus) trips and five on shorter jaunts (1 hour or so). Best part of all is that at the end of long trips I feel utterly fresh- almost as good as when I left. The car is a dream to drive- the seats are just the best seats my rear has ever had the pleasure to grace, and the acceleration is excellent. I actually use the speed warning feature because I find myself easily doing 85-90 on Route 95 without knowing it. If you need to pass some idiot doing 65 in the fast lane you are around them in a matter of seconds. This, combined with the pinpoint steering, is to me the most important safety feature on the car. After all, best safety feature is being able to avoid an accident.
To anyone who has read prior posts about problems and is scared- I've had a great experience so far, although I do follow the maintenance schedule. Why not when the dealer gives you a loaner car for anyhting that will take more than an hour. If looking to buy in DC area, check out International Saab in Falls Church- very happpy with them. I feel like I own something special the way I'm treated there.
P.S.- Just broke 2200 miles.Otherwise, besides the brakes squeaking in reverse and a "ticking sound" the car is great!!!!!!!!!!!
Dealer said that they will take care of the ticking and brakes at 10k checkup
Is it really possible to get a base 9-3 with 5-speed and leather for the low $20k range?
Some reliability issues have me worried, but I like the safety features and comfortable seats. A similarly equipped Volvo S60 turbo costs much more, as does a BMW 325i. Would consider an Audi A4, however...
Thanks, Larry
I am in the Phoenix area, but I cannot recommend any salesmen since I bought my Saab used. The main incentive on current Saabs is 0% financing, which is pretty tempting. I am probably going to go to my local Saab dealer and take a test drive. I doubt they would be able to make the deal sweet enough for me to buy one right now, but you never know.
Regards,
Tom
There will not be a 4 door base model for 2002 ..they will all be SE but there are changes to the interior and equiptment levels...which you can find on the saab website. Not sure what the current incentives are but if you want the 0% financing you can't get the factory to dealer cash from what I've heard. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions
As far as what you are missing I can try to explain it but you really have to drive the car to understand. You'll either love it or hate it. If you like how a camry drives you won't like the Saab. The camry drives like a buick..quiet, slow, overassisted power steering and plain boring. On the Saab the steering is precise but requires more effort, the handling is amazing, the seats are better than any car I've been in, the turbo is fast..very fast even with an automatic, the a/c is incredible and I live in Phoenix where it got up to 118 degrees this summer and the trunk is huge (and if it won't fit in the trunk the seats fold down) Go drive one...I had no intention of buying one until I went for a test drive. Got it as as second car but sold my Lexus LS400 three months later after I realized that I never drove it because I'd rather drive the Saab
Can anybody advice on how to go about getting the least price for the car.
Revka
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advise please
thanks
Is there a reason this 9-3 in MA is so much better than any in FL? And what will it cost for you to pick the car up, or for it to be shipped to FL? For a car this new, I don't necessarily think you need to see it (if the car is at a reputable dealer). I just think whatever 'deal' you might get from this dealer will be offset by the shipping costs.
I cant find a similar car in Fl.
Also - go to saabnet.com - and check out their classified section. Saabnet is the internet's "center of the universe" for Saab aficianados...