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BTW, forgot to say its a 2002 V6 limited with 80K miles.
It could be a wiring issue, the truck has been crashed heavily twice Once in the front and another time T boned. I wonder if the wiring going down that side now has an issue.
Anyone have full schematics or know where to find them ?
It couldn't be any easier to change the pads on this car. I had a little trouble with the dust boot on one piston not wanting to go back into the caliper with the piston, but other than that it was a cinch.
1) is this a big deal?
2) I suspect its a major operation to replace them, removing the springs and all. Does anyone have any experience with such things?
The other thing I noticed while replacing the brake pads is that Nitrile gloves from Home Depot are junk. They tear with the slightest provocation. Nitriles are supposed to be tougher than your basic latex gloves, but these aren't. Buy 'em somewhere else.
E.D. ISF
Did you ever find out the problem and solution?
I have gotten several codes off the ecu scan and I am not sure what they will require to resolve the problem. The codes are:
P0440 EVAP Emisison Control Malfunction
P0441 EVAP Emission Control System Purge flow fault
P0446 EVAP Emission Control Vent Circuit Malfunction
I do see that the teeth on the hub are not totally clean, so how does one get to them to clean properly ?
Last Spring CEL comes on. Check oil, level is low. Add oil. Continue checking oil and note continued consumption. Discussed with dealer and they top off oil and I bring back twice. After 500 miles oil is 1 quart low. Next time after 900 miles oil is almost 2 quarts low. Dealer agrees oil comsumption problem.
Also, have intermittent exhaust smoke on startup.
I'm aware of and have the paperwork for the oil sludge settlement of which my HL is covered. Make my case to the dealer that blue smoke and oil consumption is covered under this settlement. They remove valve cover ($125) and say no sludge problem therefore not covered under the settlement. Dealer says must be something else. SA tells me $5K to rebuild engine if that is the problem.
I call number on settlement paperwork (Toyota corporate), give them details. They have dealer SA call me back and say they need to again remove the valve cover to determine the problem (another $125). He says that they may have to do some type of pressure test, doesn't give cost. He also says that if problem is valve guide the cost is all mine. If the problem is bad rings, Toyota will share in the cost, whatever that means.
If anyone can provide any input/advice on this topic it would be greatly appreciated. I know very little about engines.
Also, I read on post on Edmunds that indicated that a clogged PCV valve could cause excessive oil consumption. That's apparently a $10 item. Can anyone verify if this could be the problem.
Does anyone know the cost to repair valve guides or the cost to repair bad rings?
thanks in advance for any solutions!!
At about 20 mph and again at 40 mph a noise that I can only describe as a continual hardly audible 'whoop,whoop,whoop' begins and lasts until I pass through each range. Most noticeable when climbing a moderate to steep grade.
I thought about the tires (just replaced with Costco's BFG Touring) - but noticed that when I take my foot of the gas pedal, the noise stops. This has to be in the drive train somewhere.
Any ideas what it is - and how do I reference this problem to my dealer/service repair?
I'm having the high idle problem on my V6.
How long did the positive results from your cleaning last? I noticed in another post you recommended replacement rather than cleaning.
Anyone else with ISCV experience, or other cures for high idle? I'm talking over 2000 rpm warm, occasionally drops lower. Pretty annoying.
That's amazing! I think my dealer charged me $35 a couple years ago.
Moderators-I don't suppose I can give 'em a plug by name here, could I?
Give 'em a thumbs up over in Dealer Ratings and Reviews too.
Regards, BGood
What kind of "pressure test" did you do? If the compressor does not cycle on, then you won't have any high pressure on the High Side, and you won't have any low pressure on the Low Side. A pressure test is only meaningful if expressed in terms of pressure on the High Side and pressure on the Low Side, along with Ambient temperature and Vent temperature, and engine speed is helpful.
Example of a usual reading: High Side=225 pounds, Low side=25 pounds, Ambient temperature=88 degrees fahrenheit, Vent temperature=46 degrees fahrenheit, engine speed 1500 rpm.
You are suggesting that this isn't a necessary maintenance procedure?
NOT....!!!
I need new tires. Looking at the Bridgestone Alenza to replace Michelin LTX. Much better ratings on Tirerack and a little cheaper. Anyone have these tires?
WHY do I need this work?
Why don't you do this work when it's listed in the book or IS it listed in the book?
If not listed in the book, again WHY do I need this work?
Why is the transfer case and differential oil dirty? Is it time for it to be dirty? If not, why did it get dirty early?
How dirty is it supposed to get before it needs changing.
(Note for you; just because the oil is dirty does not mean it is bad and need changing, it only needs changing if it is starting to chemically break down or is very contaminated). That is why oils are generally changed at milage/time inetervals. I would not get those services, unless I really know I need them.
If you really want to find out how good or how bad your oil is, you can send a sample of oil to an oil analysis company for a fee, and they will send you a full report with a full explaination. You can find these companies on the Internet. Just google "oil analysis".
There is a company called Black something that says "Oil analysis can identify any problems developing in your engine long before they cause you an expensive headache. Or maybe you'd just like to get a good look at the microscopic wear your engine is producing. Can you run a fill of oil longer than 3000 miles? Are your oil and air filters doing a good job? Is your tranmission or differential oil holding up? We can answer these questions and more when you submit a sample of your engine oil for analysis."
Blackstone Labs
Testing is up to $22.50 now. Seems like you could get a test down for about half that a few years ago.
The service writer had a brochure on his desk for brake fluid replacement. That's a service you won't find in the manual but is a good idea every few years because brake fluid absorbs water. They wanted $90!!! More than transmission fluid service. I'll buy a quart and do it myself. (He did say it probably didn't need to be done before 60K miles).
It's kind of a pain.
There are a couple writeups online, one on Tundra Solutions, but they aren't quite right.
The ISCV is attached to the bottom of the throttle body, and you need to remove the throttle body to get the ISCV off. Perhaps if you're really good and you have some trick tools you could get it off the throttle body without removing the throttle body - I didn't try, and its a good thing. Its a good thing because the ISCV is held to the throttle body by four Phillips head screws, and I stripped two of them before going to an impact driver for the 3rd and 4th, which made me very nervous on the aluminum throttle body. I replaced the fasteners with cap screws.
There's a lot more to it, but once I got it cleaned and reassembled, there was a coolant leak from the hose attached to the ISCV. Same original clamp, perhaps I should have replaced them. Grrr. I removed the air cleaner and intake hoses again, and ran the car without them, which of course throws a diagnostic code and illuminates the check engine light. Plus, the hose didn't leak in that condition! So, I put if back together, there was initially a slight leak which has now stopped, the idle is fine in all scenarios, and the CEL has gone out after several cycles.
I'd still do it again to save the $500 or so, but I wouldn't suggest others try it unless they're mechanically adventurous and have a good selection of tools.
Jonas
The smoke and excessive oil consumption concern me and lead me to think you have a valve guide problem. Smoking tailpipe at idle is a dead giveaway. The oil consumption, while alarming, is not excessive for an engine with bad guides. A vacuum test will reveal for sure if you have bad valve guides. Plug a vacuum gauge into any available below throttle port and let the engine idle. A sound engine will show between 15-19 inches. A vibrating reading indicates bad valve guides.
Valve guide replacement is expensive, essentially involves an engine top end, or head rebuild. In an otherwise sound vehicle, probably worth the expense.
You could have bad rings, but I doubt that, as you would be seeing smoke out the tailpipe all the time. You can test for bad rings, as well as bad valves amongst other things, by performing a cylinder leakdown test. If your vacuum test is normal, I would follow up with a compression test, then a leak down test.
Failing these tests would result in a total engine rebuild, or replacement. More expensive, and might not be worth the cost.
Good luck.
Ray
Is it just a reminder due to the number of miles I have driven or does it actually have some relationship to the current quality of the engine oil? Toyota recommends oil change every 5k, do you guys always do it at the dealership? Or is a regular place around the corner ok as well? Is there any difference?
I have always gone to the dealership. It's not much more expensive than an independent shop and then they have the record should you have a problem under warranty. I would never go to one of the "quicky lube" places. I've heard/read too many horror stories about them.
My '08 HL had the same message appear at almost the exact same mileage, and I'm just guessing that the likelihood of me having the same # of starts, time the engine is on, and average coolant temperature as jilin74 is pretty low.
The message is simply a reminder that you're approaching a manufacturer's recommended service interval. My dealer charged $24.95 for the oil/filter change and $12.00 for the tire rotation (also recommended @ 5K). Together, that's about what I would have paid for just the oil/filter change at the local oil joint (a.k.a. high school auto shop). I feel better knowing the work was done by factory-trained people, that Toyota has a record of all work performed, and the price is well within reason.
On my Olds Intrigue, there was an algorithm involved because it came on much sooner in the winter (more cold starts, lower engine temps, etc.) than it did in the summer.
Also check under your front floor carpet for dampness/odor.
wwest EED odor gym
A possible related problem I have had since new is that something locks up (I believe it is the rear brakes) when I leave the vehicle unattended for a week or more -usually in an airport parking lot) and it takes a lot of effort to get the vehicle to move, accompanied by a loud snap). The Dealer said I had a caliper seized - but since new?? Perhaps this has worn down the rear brakes? Appreciate any comments.
It is possible for the linings to "stick" to the rotor if left unattended but I would expect it to take more than a week and would also expect them to break free fairly easily. Not sure what this could be. Are you setting the parking brake? If the caliper seized, you probably couldn't apply the brake, it wouldn't typically seize in the applied position. But if the caliper piston is stuck in the applied position, this could explain the pad wear.
Could anyone advise please?
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I've got a 2004 HL Limited V6 Auto FWD with 110,000 miles, and it's almost perfect.
Someone else explained it best to me. As a car ages, the seals do get "some" leakage. When I looked at my master cylinder, I did see what appeared like seapage around it, yet it was still full of brake fluid. Now, could it start leaking like a crazy? Maybe. But I wasn't about to sink a grand or more in to the vehicle.
The others here have given good advice. Just check these fluids once or twice a week and fill as needed. I'd bet you won't put hardly anything at all in. Also if you park in a garage, put some card board under where you park and check this for any drips.
And don't waste your time trying to get Toyota to ante up. The O2 sensor went on my son's Tacoma when it was 3K miles and one month off of warranty and they wouldn't help. They just referred it to the dealer who wouldn't return my calls. I currently have four Toyotas in my household and will NEVER own another one. Between the quality issues I've seen and the arrogant dealers being a royal pain in my [non-permissible content removed], they can go pound salt before I buy another one.