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Comments
thanks in advance,
Dave
I have a 2002 HL V6 AWD with VSC (Automatic). It has been the best car ever, now has 117K miles, and requires older car oil. I've been experiencing repeating thumping when decelerating, whether in gear or neutral. Not sure if it is related to brakes, transmission or something else. Didn't see anything quite the same on the forum so far. Thoughts and experiences appreciated.
Thanks!
I don't think so. If its the rear bank O2 sensor, there is a connector at the back of the engine, and I needed two people to disconnect it. See post 4360.
Jonas
Should I change it at 1kmi?
Also, my truck calls for 0w20 but I stocked up with 12 or so gallons of 5w30 synthetic. Can I use 5w30 instead (Pa area)?
Also, what's the shelf life of synthetic oil?
Thanks
Using the heavier weight oil could mean 1/10 less mpg. If you live in a very cold climate, that oil could make it marginally more difficult to start in the morning.
Change it at 5K if you want to be overly cautious. I change my HL oil ever 10,000 miles (just approaching 120K now) although I COULD be going over twice that mileage between changes.
I've been using synthetic since about 1978.
Phil
As for the clunking sound check to see if any service bulletins were issued by Toyota, I seem to remember something about that.
I have an 03 HIGH/ 148K miles
The Goodyear tires stink, would assume Michelin would be great.
I have found that calling around on tires works. You can save 30-40 bucks per tire
I also changed the battery recently and my Highlander just barely turned over yesterday. Could it be something like the alternator or it might need a fuel injection cleaning?
If you had the battery replaced and they didn't check, 'bad' on them.
If you replaced the battery yourself and didn't check, you need to verify that the alternator is working.
"Barely turning over" has absolutely nothing to do with how clean the injectors might be.
Phil
Anyone else have a similar experience? Do we have a problem -- or is this the normal behavior and just a bad design?
Not wishing to end up in a feature on 60 Minutes ...
What you are describing is uncharacteristic. The Kluger/Highlander handling is not exciting, but very predictable. There should be understeer and it should feel a bit "mushy" if you are used to a good handler like a Subaru or BMW. The up side is that there are huge reserves of safety.
I would suggest that you check tyre pressures precisely using a good (recently calibrated) pressure gauge. You can then try lifting pressure about 2lb above recommended.
I have found with modern cars that it is vital that you have a four wheel balance and wheel alignment done regularly (about every 10-20,000 km). This dramatically improves handling and reduces tyre wear; I am getting 95,000km from a set.
Finally, adjust your expectations. If you are used to driving a BMW which has superb handling, go and try a few more routine vehicles. You may find that your tastes have become just a little too refined!
Cheers
Graham
Cheers
Graham
One shop had a HL in for repairs after an aftermarket pump failed that they'd installed only a year before.
I hope you post the directions for wheel well replacement if you find them. I'm nearing 125K on our '03 HL and plan on waterpump and timing belt replacement in the coming months.
Phil
Hint: Try going on toyotanation highlander forum, there was a poster who replaced the water pump by himself and he posted a short write up.
Thanks,
Rut
Anyone have any experience with a Check Engine Light (CEL) and DTC P0174?
Hauling up through the mountains of western Maryland in the snow, and "bling!" a CEL and VSC light. Grumble.
Took an unplanned exit and found a place to stop to do a quick flashlight check (did I mention it was night?) and couldn't see anything.
Decided to ignore it and continue the weekend, which happened to have the HL parked all weekend, then the ~150 mile trip home today. Seems to run fine, although the dash info says I only got 18 mpg on the highway. Something I'd expect if the computer couldn't figure out how to remedy a lean condition.
My scanner reveals a DTC P0174, a generic code for a lean condition, bank 2. Generic meaning it is a code required by the feds on all cars which have to have the OBDII system on board, which is just about everything since '96. So its not a Toyota-specific code and its explanation is not specific.
I initially thought, oh well, I need another O2 sensor (replaced bank 1 years ago, see post 4360). However, research shows many things could contribute to a P0174 - vacuum leak, Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), O2 sensor, etc. If it were a MAF I would expect to get codes from both banks (P0171 and P0174), and I only have a code for bank 2. Fyi, bank 2 is the front row of cylinders on the V6.
Has anyone had a P0174, and if so, what was the diagnosis/repair?
TIA,
Jonas
How can this be???? This is an AWD vehicle...do front brakes last that much longer ???
No, I'm not sure why you'd have different wear on the back than on the front. My 2001 Highlander is also AWD with the V6. I replaced all of my original pads, front and back, last summer at 80,000 miles. And then, only because the brake material on the inner pad on the right front wheel had disintegrated, which I'm told sometimes happens when they get old. All of the remaining 7 pads still had at least 1/8" of material on them; the wear sensors hadn't begun squawking.
When your mechanic replaced your rear brake pads, twice, did you get the old parts back? If so, do you remember how much brake material was left on them?
If indeed the rear brake pads needed replacing, I would think a reputable shop would have suggested further diagnosis to find out why they were wearing out faster than the front. Based on my experience and what I've heard from others here, the brakes should be wearing more-or-less evenly front to back.
2012...
May have reduced the "normal" power assist level to alleviate the above instances.
DIY..?
"..inner pad on the right..."
Very common problem, caused by a stuck or sticking caliper slide pin, replace and/or FULLY lubricate.
Did you happen to notice the Trac system or VSC activating?? More than once or twice..?
On the RX or HL without DBW engine dethrottling during a trac or VSC event is accomplisheded via EFI fuel starvation. No way to close the throttle plate so the HOT oxygen sensors see PURE oxygen for brief period(s). That appears to somehow have an adverse impact on those sensors for some period after and a CEL is not altogether unusual.
Generally clears within a few drive cycles.
I have had instances of dirty MAF/IAT sensors throwing a diagnostic of only one lean bank. So I would first clean the MAF/IAT sensor elements.
Thanks
Dealers like to up-sell stuff. You may decide you need some of those "extra" services, but you're right. You should tell the service writer what you want done, not ask for a "90,000 mile service".
Confessions From the Dealership Service Department
If you look at this below for my HL it still shows that you have to pay the dealer to "check" things which I do not want to do. I figure they already do at oil changes, why give them more money to look around.
http://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/results.html?year=2005&makeId=200003381&m- odelYearId=100503866&styleId=100413879&engCode=6VNAG3.3&transCode=AUTOMATIC&mile- age=90000&zip=53072
My dealer is asking for $700 including tax
I called another foreign car repair shop and was quoted $181. I asked what they check and they repeated everything on the toyota's manual for 30000 mile service. Is there something to gain by paying extra to have this service done at toyota?
Toyota service guy even told me they flush coolant or brake fluid but that service is not recommended at 30000 miles. Can somebody with 2nd generation H/L give me their opinion on this? I want to save money but also want things done right. The other repair shop have ACE or something certified technicians and have been around for over 25yrs.
IF you feel the need to get those items checked, go to a AAA auto service center and have an oil/filter change along with tire rotation and they will check everything else for free. Be prepared to have the cabin filter replaced (it is a tad of work to get to it) as 30K on that filter is more than enough.
Save your money from your Toyota dealer (mine wanted over $700 for the same service) and spend it on something worthwhile.
I have a girlfriend that for years continued to go to her dealer for her Outback and every time ended up with $500 bills. So it's okay to go to the dealer so you actually do get some of their "expertise" for your vehicle but just ask only for what you want and ask lots of questions for anything else recommended.
BTW: only Goodyear tires last on my Highlander (originally came on it). I made the mistake of letting Goodyear do other work and I was lied to regularly (example: told me I needed brakes changed when they were normal levels and two years later still are okay. They rotate my tires, period)
I've seen some "oil and filter" change coupons that includes checking these other components for free.
my H/L came with Bridgestone tires which i intend to change soon. Thanks again.
As an aside, I'm not happy with the steering of our 2012, because I think it's imprecise (I call it 'mushy'). My other cars are German -- BMW and Porsche, so I'm used to a tight feel of the road. Even though they are 10 and 25 years old respectively. I haven't talked to the dealer yet about it -- thinking I'm likely to get the 'it's normal' response. I want to get a chance to drive another 2012 and see if it steers the same. (You might see if your dealer will let you drive a demo -- to compare to yours). But a month ago I had an instance where it was pulling to the right at high speed on the freeway. Only lasted maybe for 5 - 10 miles, then went back to what I consider 'normal' -- that is, staying in a straight line when I release the wheel.
steves8, "Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair" #4791, 16 Feb 2010 6:18 pm
Should I stick with genuine toyota filters?
oil & filter, tire rotation every 5,000 miles.
Air Filter, Cabin Filter, Transmission fluid, coolant service every 30,000 miles..
right now my HL @60,000 miles.. If it reaches 100K without major issues I will think abt changing timing belt.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4509187_check-refill-transfer-case-toyota.html