Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
My stocks are also being "called" for which is why I asked the question about the specs of it earlier. Will our stock rims go on 95 and up Civics?
Tell them what you want and they'll let you know if you're on the right track. Believe springs come in 50 lbs increments.
The KYB AGX adj. shocks will not last too long with 400lb/in. spring rates. I wouldn't use them on anything over 350. From what I 've heard, they 're designed for use with "sports springs" that normally range from 200-340lbs/in. They 're not meant to be used with RACE springs which normally range from 400-550lbs. IF you go to H&R or Eibach's web site, you 'll see it says "Koni Sports recommended for race springs". They don't say AGX..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
oh, harry thanks for the info about the shocks.
You should definitely feel a difference with the fresh brake fluid. 90k mi. old brake fluid or 5-6yr old fluid like yours has lost a lot of its properties. Even if you don't feel the difference it's GOOD for your calipers.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Also, the apexi ws coilover system, is it good quality? What would be better in the long run, the koni/gc combo or the apexi's? Thanks.
Yes, the Konis are height adjustable to even higher than your stock height but I would not recommend going higher at all! Handling will be comprimised considerably if you go higher. Use the stock perch that is intended for the stock height as indicated in the instructions.
You can only do this once while you 're installing the shocks. Once they 're on the car you cannot adjust the height with the Konis unless you take them off again! For the love of god, don't go to the higher perch! Why would you want to anyway (actually I don't want to know)? You can raise or lower the car with the GCs and you have a top shelf shock that most racers use. Now go buss some tables like I did when I was 17 and buy the darn things!! :-) That's how I paid for my first car, a '71 Nova 350SS. I miss that car..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
So, another question. The custom-wound gc's cost $350ish shipped, right? my question is, how much extra is it when I get the adapters to make them work with the koni's? I think it's $40 additional for all four corners, $390ish shipped. so, koni yellows + gc's w/ adapters = $920, right? Thanks alot guys.
Yes, you 're looking at atleast $900 for the Konis Sports and the GCs. The Apexi WS coilover kit I heard is ok but doesn't have aggressive spring rates at all. It's the bottom of the line kit.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Okay, what's the fender gap between the stock tire and the fender? I'm just wondering because I don't think the car has been lowered, but it could be. oh, what's that site that can calculate the difference between tire circumferences? It's a miata site. Anyway, I'm going to go with the koni/gc combo. Thanks alot Harry. I really appreciate it.
I'm not sure how you have a 1.5" with just different tires and wheels but definitely put your Konis at the correct perch. You will have lots of room to play with the height with the GCs.
Don't get the Tokicos. I have them. They are okay for driving around on the street, but will not handle huge spring rates. Actually, you might look into the Tokico kit (shocks, springs) which lowers 1.5" if you want a nice ride for the street. My friend who recently bought GCs with something like 350F/350R to go with his Illuminas and talked to Tokico and they said it would be no problem replacing them if they fail due to large spring rates. I keep having this feeling that I will outgrow my suspension before I can afford to replace it.
In other news, I took my last exam and signed up for a track weekend at Texas World Speedway through www.thedriversedge.net. Can't wait.
have fun at the track.
Since that time, when the car has warmed up and the idle drops to the 650-700 range, the engine shakes the car real bad. Throw it into nuetral and it stops. Took it back to the place that did the work and they claimed everything checked out.
So we took it to another highly recommended repair place, and they had the car for a week. 5 different mechanics worked on it ( 2 had a combined 55 years of service) and the car has stumped them all. They cannot determine why it shakes so much. Engine mounts appear ok, valves are at specs, the timing belt was replaced correctly, etc. They spent several hours on the car, but because they could not figure it out, they did not charge us anything.
Has anyone ever heard of this happening after the above mentioned repairs? Is there anything else these places could have missed that is causing it? Could it just be because of the new belt on an older engine?
We are at a loss.....
they have H&R coilovers for $1081.
they also have Koni coilovers for $973
Eibach Springs F: 8" x 350 lbs R: 7" x 250 lbs (Stock F: 212 lbs R: 117 lbs)
I don't race, wanted to keep as much suspension travel as possible while improving the handling and tighting up the ride. Have put 90k miles on this setup and am very happy with the results. Will do the same thing to my next car.
Went with GC because the price was competitive with shocks and lowering springs while the ride height was adjustable. With the adjustment sleeves as high as possible got a 3/8" drop. If one wants stock ride height one would need taller springs.
True coilovers (shock body is treaded) are expensive. The GC kit uses a threaded sleeve that slides over the shock and rests on the spring perch. Have heard stories of spring perches breaking but haven't seen that.
A couple years ago I ran over chunk of concrete that blew out the front tire and tore up a rear trailing arm. The shock was fine but the GC threaded sleeve was smashed over the spring perch lowering the ride height another 1/2". Had to take everything apart to replace the sleeve. (Didn't need a spring compresser this time thou.) That front shock still hasn't spung a leak but later the other one did and was replaced.
garados
To figure out your current ride height measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender and compare that to a stock G3.
Does anyone know if this can be done since computers seems to control everything now adays, and also how to go about doing it?
The list correlates numbers of each 1999-2001 model passenger vehicle thought to be on the road with the frequency that it is stolen to determine which cars thieves want most often. Other studies don't use that formula -- usually concluding that the most stolen vehicles are models that most populate the highways, the institute said.
Theft investigators believe that Integras are so popular with thieves because of their parts, according to Kim Hazelbaker, HLDI senior vice president.
"Many of those parts, like the more powerful engine, end up on modified Honda Civics," Hazelbaker said. The Civic and the Integra share the same platform.
According to the study, the Integra was stolen with a frequency of 21.7 times per 1,000 insured vehicles on the road in a year.
The Integra was stolen more than eight times as often as the average car, and 2.5 times more frequently than the Jeep Wrangler -- the vehicle second on the list -- according to the institute.
The average U.S. car is stolen 2.6 times per 1,000 insured vehicles, according to the study. The Wrangler is stolen, the institute said, 8.5 times per 1,000 insured vehicles.
My friend was joking about 2yrs ago saying that his dog would probably never bark if thieves were stealing the car at night. 2 weeks later he goes out in his driveway in the morning and the car is missing. The dog never barked! The cops found the car 3-4 days later totally stripped except the wheels. He had 3 different wheel locks on each corner! Luckily these were 5-bolt Type-R wheels with Type-R brakes so he bought the chassis (no doors!) with the wheels back from the insurance company for $500 and sold the ITR wheels, rotors & calipers for $1,100. If the thieves want your car bad enough they 'll take it. Car alarms don't usually deter them.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Update on the TE-37's: Turns out that I misunderstood my cousin. He was quoting me at a per tire price, not per set. Price went down though he said since it's and old model. Going rate now is about $300 ea. or $1,200 for a set of 4. But with this #1 ranking for stolen cars, I may think again before adding the #1 stolen rims to it also.
Hope you all have a good "driveable" weekend, weather-wise that is.....
Besides the 525lb coilovers he did earlier in the spring, he now has a Quaife LSD, 9lb flywheel, ACT racing clutch, 13x8.5" Panasport racing wheels that weigh 8.9lbs ($265 each!), and 225-45 Hoosiers!! These mods except for the coilovers were $4300 with labor! All legal in DSP.
In a couple of months he 's getting a bigger throttle body, intake manifold & roll cage. Basically almost everything allowed in DSP. This guy is taking this hobby very seriously :-) He plans on doing some National tour events and Divisionals this year and possibly going to the Nationals in Sept. He said he 's setting up his GSR the same as Mike Neary who came in 6th at the Nationals (DSP) last year.
He beat me by a full second (1.1)! To me 5 grand is not worth an extra second. I can think of a lot of home improvements I can do for $5K.
The funny thing is I was beating him because he kept hitting cones and his only clean run was 34.7. My best was 34.2. He had some 33's but with cones. Then on his last run (5th) he gets a 33.1 and I 'm glad he did. The car looked awesome and I 'd hate to win a trophy when I know there 's someone a whole sec. faster than me in my class. But really what it comes down to, is the car with the most money sunk into it, usually wins nowadays in the SP, P & Mod classes. I figure his Hoosiers are good for about .3-.4s vs. my Kumhos (plus they were sticking out of the fenders 1.5"), and .6-.7s due to his LSD, flywheel, & higher spring rate coilovers.
I thought he 'd beat me by more because he said his car was noticeably faster with the lighter flywheel and the shorter gearing that resulted from the 13" wheels. Plus he said the car is "now faster than he is".. Once he gets used to it I think he 'll get a lot faster with it.
I was actually in the low 35's but then I had a really good run where I felt I did everything right, breaked at the right time, turned at the right time, was on the gas at the right time, flew through the slaloms (2), etc. and dropped my time by a 1 second. It just felt very fast. I felt my car was maybe capable of a 33.9 but not much more. I 'd love to experience what a 1 sec. faster car feels like because I almost got dizzy with those slaloms and I thought my reflexes were at their peak with my 34.2 run (which was <2s from FTD and probably in the top 10 out of 75 drivers).
I was really happy to see a GSR that was so capable and came within 1sec. of FTD with all those National & Div. champs there (we have a bunch in the PRO class). Next time he said we 'll probably swap cars in the fun runs. I hope I don't like his car too much and go out and spend all that money
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Have any of you heard of the z10 radius arms? they're supposed to eliminate wheel hop, is this true? Also, will handling be affected in any way? Okay, your opinion counts here. I want to get rid of wheel hop during acceleration. Now, should I do this with the z10 radius arms, or get konis and set the front to full hard? Thanks guys.
Okay, now theoretically if I managed to destroy the front two shocks (assume I have koni yellows) by physically mishandling them(such as taking a jackhammer to them). Is there any place to buy just the front shocks? Thanks again.
Garados: I 'm not sure if you 're talking about buying just the 2 front Konis, but yes, you can just order 2 of them. You 'll probably pay a little more though, than just getting all 4.
The Konis will reduce wheel hop especially if you firm up the rear because that's where the weight gets transferred when you hit the gas. When you apply the accelerator the car sits lower in the rear and raises the front that makes wheel hop worse. With the Konis set pretty firm and some stiffer springs you don't get as much but you still get a little wheel hop. LSD also helps reduce wheel hop because you 're putting better power down through both wheels. I 've heard of the Z-10 radius arms which are basically traction bars (legal in DSP also) and mostly used for drag racing. They 're not supposed to help with handling at all though.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=190396
This nut that came down to my local club from Albany last year had 800lbs spring rates with revalved Konis for 2yrs, so that negates what that other shop said about the "revalved" rates.. up to 6-700. I don't believe a vendor as much as the manufacturer but there have been hundreds, probably thousands of people running higher than 400lb springs with their stock Konis. I 'd say Konis are pretty safe with 450lb springs. Now if the official word is 400lbs from Koni then why the hek is Ground Control selling all these 500-600lb springs to thousands of Civic & Integra owners with stock Konis? Don't you think they 'd be well informed by Koni about what spring rates each shock handles so they can advise their customers on what to go with? Something just doesn't smell right.. I think the shocks can handle more than 400lbs for sure (we know that), but maybe higher than 400lb springs makes the stock Konis less reliable or reduces its life span which they don't want you to do.
I 've always suspected that they couldn't dampen 600lb springs (like many use with stock Konis) which is why 400-450 is all I was planning on getting.
Oh now here's another one: Why do H&R and Eibach suggest on their web page to use Koni Sports on their race springs that average 500lbs/in?
H&R race springs: 583lb/in 450lb/in!
Neuspeed race: 460lb Front!
RSR race springs (these were popular 3-5yrs ago, so were their exhausts): 502F/300R. Everyone used Koni yellows on these a couple of years ago. The manufactureres never suggest getting the Konis revalved.. If the Konis can't dampen these rates then people would be getting serious bunny-hoping/bouncing. I don't remember anyone ever posting that symptom with race springs. I 'm just trying to keep an open mind here..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
My autocross event on Sunday was a mixed bag. I went down to middle GA to compete, outfitted with my new wheels and tires, with my new spiffy magnetic one-piece numbers to boot. There was a good-sized contingent from the Atlanta region there because of the long time between our last event (early April) and our next one (early June). All told, about 50 cars showed up. They divided us into two groups where group 1 ran and got 2 runs each, and then group 2 ran their 2 runs. Then a lunch break, and then group 1 ran again getting three runs. Then we switched again, and group 2 finished with their 3 final runs. I was in group 2, so I worked the course first, and had to call a lot of DNFs because folks were totally missing a gate toward the end of the course. I thought I would surely not make THAT mistake. Well, for my first two runs, I DNF for totally missing a gate on the upper section of the course. And I did it two times in a row. And I'm thinking, "WTF, how did that happen?" That's the very first time in almost a year that I've DNFd for getting lost on course. During the lunch break, I walked the course (for the fourth time) and found the error of my ways. Honestly, I guess I'm spoiled and used to much better marked courses than what this course offered. But it's good to get out and experience different events put on by different groups. It'll pay off in the long run. My last three runs were all clean (no cones and no DNFs thankfully) getting down to my fastest time on my fifth run of 48.6xx. There were only two cars in STS and I beat the other guy handily (~4 secs.). So, I finally felt good about my performance because I was only 4 seconds off FTD which was set by an F Mod cart. Also, I was less than 1 sec (~0.7 secs) behind my buddy who was our region's DSP champ in a GSR last year, who's now campaigning in SM in a '86 Civic hatchcrap on 13" wheels and Hoosiers. So, all in all, it was a weird but good day. And I came home with a first place trophy in hand.
Let me get something straight: You were only .7s behind a Street Mod '86 Civic with 13" (usually 8-8.5" wide) wheels & Hoosiers? That's incredible! Did that Civic have a really slow motor? Maybe he 's still working on it? Most SM Civics here have B18C1 or C5 motors in them and are usually very fast with R tires and coilovers. Some of these guys even have head work and other things done on their B18 motors and I hear them say they 're in the 13's - all motor. That is weird though..
Yeah there's not much I can do against someone like this guy. He 's determined to spend as much money as it takes so he can be #1. It's that mental determination that totally clouds one's sense of logic and reason, so next thing you know they 've thrown $8-10K into the car. I can take that money and increase the value of my house by $20-30K, or drive around in an S2000 while he still has a low 15's Integra (with 90k on it no less!) with no turbo, or anything, just to win some cheap trophies. There comes a point when you have to say enough is enough especially when you 're like this guy who told me he spends every penny he makes or saves into the car.
I also want to mention that he did have the GC coilover street kit before and replaced it with higher rate springs. There goes $350+labor. He drives for hours to get to events and has managed to pile 90k mi. on his car in just 2yrs! He has a '00 GSR. He is from PA and belongs to the Philly region, so besides driving to Philly for events which is over an hour from where he lives, he drives 2hrs to attend NY & NJ events! He also drives 1.5hrs to attend the North Jersey SCCA region events at Englishtown. He told me he 's had 20 events so far this year because he attended a bunch of Winter auto-x events that the Philly region had, plus all the NASA & SCCA events in the NY/NJ/PA regions so far this year! I 've had maybe 5 events this year. Last year he had 25 events and Evolution school (which is usually 25+ runs - about 5 events). So this guy has actually had the equivalent of 4yrs auto-xing in less than 2yrs! I now feel good that I beat him at the M-Club (similar to NASA, fast course) last month before he did all these mods :-) He 's nuts and will probably achieve his goals like Divisional championship by next year, because he won't stop putting money into the car until he does.. Did I mention he 's getting the Konis revalved? Maybe I won't see him for 2-3 weeks :-) Knowing him, he 'll probably put the stock shocks back on and go race!
Seriously though, I think if I had an LSD, I 'd be really close to his times or close the gap by 1/2sec and then rub in it That would be enough for him to go buy a more expensive racing LSD and throw a few more grand into it He was already talking about the flywheel he put in (can't remember the name) and was saying that he really wants a TODA one, but they were 2mos back ordered. He wants to sell this one and buy the Toda which is more money, plus the labor all over again would be like $400+! I think by next year he 'll be well on his way to a total of 10 grand. So sad. He also has a SPOON front upper bar which is very expensive (about $280-300) and header & exhaust (thermal research 2.5"). So he 's way over $6K or $7K by now with the CAI, 22mm Comptech sway/tie combo ($340), Konis, GCs, etc.
I never realized DSP class can be that expensive! He still has to do the FPR, throttle body, intake manifold, roll cage, and revalve the Konis! dang!
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
BTW, that guy with the crazy-modded GSR sounds like a total whack job. Spending that much time and $$ on anything, let alone a car, just ain't right. There's absolutely no sense of balance or moderation in that guy's life. His soul sounds tortured...
I don't know if I should work on suspension and get it done with, or work on the engine. What would you guys recommend? BTW, I have already put on an intake and a cat-back exhaust, and sway bars. The car will be used mostly for street, and some track racing. Thanks.
Okay, i'm thinking about buying koni's from tirerack.com. I'm sure tirerack is good about shipping and getting orders right, but am I wrong? Am I just too trusting? Do any of you have any experience with them? i.e. tires, shocks, springs, etc? any info would be appreciated.
Also, I replaced my brake fluid, and now, my abs moderator doesn't sound like a dinosaur or a wookie when the car starts up ^_^ So I'm happy about that. The brake fluid was nasty. Couldn't see the bottom of the master cylender, and when I poured the brake fluid in, chunks of black stuff would come up to the top. Anyway, next step is to get new pads.