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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying
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2. What is your current/present budget?
3. What you do expect is your likely budget three years from now (assuming you didn't have or need a car between now and then)?
The smart thing to do is probably not to buy it, but you only live once and by the time you get out of college there may not be too many GSRs around with less than 100k mi., etc. so what the hek, go for it! Then again, it's not my money or my car :-)
You seem to have a level head on your shoulders otherwise you would 've bought the car by now..
What I did was leave my car at home. School was only 2hrs away from home so I 'd usually leave the car there and take the train to school & back home every other weekend. I always looked forward to driving my "baby" which was a V8 hotrod back then :-) Fastest car I 've ever owned and that was my first one.
If I may make a suggestion: If you can do what I did. Buy the car in the summer (now basically), drive it all summer long (get it out of your system) and then leave it at home and go to school without it. It 'll be there for you on weekends, holidays, recess, spring brakes, etc. Of course another choice is to buy a Civic or something cheaper or more conservative that wouldn't attract too much attention, and have it all year round.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Personally, I would wait on the GS-R buying. Depending on your campus, financial situation, etc. you should be able to make a sound decision. Also, how long would you be waiting?
My ground clearance is exactly 5.4" from the ground to the front spoiler and 5.7" on the side.
Sounds like your car has totally stock ride height.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
garados: I 'm not sure if you can mount the ITR springs on the stock shock base/swivel - the big metal plate that the spring sits on, and not sure about the top mounting gear either.
You definitely cannot mount the ITR shocks or any shocks made for the ITR because you have to replace your Lower Control Arms with ITR ones. That's about $300/per LCA (w/bushings) x 4 = $1200!.
Even if the ITR springs fit perfectly, that's not the way to go. Without the matching ITR shocks and ITR LCAs & bushings, the springs alone won't benefit you much. The ITR's heavy duty Control Arms and bigger bushings makes a big difference plus the ITRs shocks are a perfect match for those springs. You 'd have to put everything in to get "almost ITR handling" but because we don't have an LSD on our GSR we have to go with higher spring rate springs & better adjustable shocks to be close to the ITR's handling.
You 're better off getting aftermarket Sport springs or GC custom rates with Konis. It's much cheaper than buying all the ITR suspension components and a 100 times better than just using the ITR springs alone. Don't forget the ITR springs are only 246F/160-246R. Not bad for the street but the factory GSR shocks are made for 212F/117R rates. They 're 20%(F) to 50% softer than ITR shocks. You 'd probably pay more for new ITR springs than you would for GCs. I also wouldn't waste adj. Konis on 246lb springs when you can have much higher rates..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Well the Mike Neary-like GSR didn't show up today but we wouldn't have been in the same class. I raced with the M-Club which bumps you up 1 class (they only have 6 car classes and 3 cart ones) if you have coilovers and/or if your wheels/tires stick out of the fenders. If and when I get coilovers I 'll be running with him.
Anyway I came in first in my class. Very fast course, perfect for M3s, Porsches & RX7s. Basically a mini road course with 1 slalom at the end. I redlined 2nd gear coming down to the slalom before the finish line! The brakes worked overtime today.. This was a course for dialed-up Konis. Had them up to 1 full turn in the front and almost 1.25 turns in the rear. The car felt good and gave me slight oversteer if I let off the gas on a turn, but was corrected quickly with some gas and kept it in check if I just "feathered" the gas. The thing that upset me a little was that I did .8 sec. better in the fun runs again! 2 events in a row now where I blew away my best time in the fun runs by a lot. The funny thing is I got very consistent times in most of my runs. I ran 47.3s 3 times in a row.
I 'm more relaxed in the fun runs I think because I know they don't count and I drive the p*ss out the car. Got a 46.5 in the fun runs which put me within 1.7 sec. of my friend who drives an '02 M3 (E46-333hp) with gigantic Hoosiers and about 2.5sec behind FTD. He usually runs PRO in SCCA clubs and is doing PRO Solo & National tour events this year. He also had 3d FTD today and is usually 2sec. or more faster then me so 1.7 difference was like a record for me but it wasn't "official". Oh well.. next time
Hey Chem, have you auto-xed yet?
Another funny thing happened today. I come back from working the course and I see 3 guys in their late teens video taping my car with them in the picture. One kid had his hand on the roof of my car and the other one was on the other side while their buddy was video taping them. As I was walking over to tell them to get their paws off my car they moved on to a Boxter next to mine and did the same thing so I didn't even say anything. A friend whose car was filmed as well and who talked to those kids told me later they thought my car was a Type-R! He didn't tell them it wasn't and was playing with them. He even said to them "geez, I wonder why the owner of that Type-R painted his car red" and none of them got it.. We had a good laugh
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I did the same and also had 2nd FTD on our first non-points (test & tune) event in the beginning of the season (out of 47 cars).
btw, the pic didn't come out. I guess you like your Azenis? :-)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
http://www.soloracer.com/cannan.html
Anyway I 'll go check out those pics of yours. You make me so proud! :-)
Hey Casey I have a question. I think you have the Hawk HP+ pads.. I just ordered a pair of those for my '01 Civic with BREMBO rotors from Steve Colletti. I wanted the HPS pads but he talked me out of it saying they 're only slightly better than stock. Do you think the HP+ is overkill for daily driving? How do like yours and would you recommend them? I 've heard good things about them but also that they squeak or are noisy. I 'm sure they dust a lot but I want to make sure I don't sacrifice any of my daily driving comfort (noise factor, etc.) with these high performance pads. I would 've gotten the Axxis Metal Masters but they 're not out for the new Civic yet.. He recommended the Axxis MM over the HPS at first but when he looked in the book, they weren't out. I knew that because I 've contacted other vendors about the MMs.. but I was hoping that maybe they were out now. Oh well, we 'll see what happens with the HP+. I 'm sure I will enjoy the stopping power but I don't know about longevity or anything about these pads.. My MMs still have over 1/2 pad thickness after 30 auto-x events and 7k mi.
Also about the Konis: In the fun runs, I softened them up again after I got that 46.5 (my fastest of the day - unofficial) and I got a 46.8 which made sense. What happens was, that the car had much better/quicker turn-in when cornering and didn't push as much which made me gain some time. In the sweepers though, it suffered from additional body roll and I couldn't get as much power down as I did when the Konis were firmer, so I lost some time there.. Then towards the finish, the softer Konis helped me fly through the slalom because the car was a lot more neutral and the steering quicker so I gained a tiny bit there, so overall I was almost as quick as with the firmer settings. Well not quite, .3 sec. slower but I could 've probably fixed that. It's weird I know, but overall I liked the firmer settings for that type of not-as-tight faster course. And the .3s I guess proved that I should 've left them dialed up.
The thing is I see all these 911s and Bimmers take the wrong line, brake when they shouldn't (1 guy went through the whole slalom on the brakes!), overdrive their cars, and they still had faster times than me because they 're so much faster on the straightaways and when launching. Most of these events at the M-Club & NASA have a 0-50 launch, meaning the first turn or transition is not till you hit 45-50mph after launching. That's where I lose a full second to these other faster cars, plus throughout the course.. But I 'm not in the same class as them so I don't know why I worry about it. I guess I 'm looking to be in the top 10 or so and these fast cars on these fast courses are ruining my reputation
Long live small tight courses! heheh
I actually like both but seem to do better in tighter ones. Look at that 1st gear test&tune course. I had 2nd FTD!! The tighter the better. Hmm.. that sounds dirty :-)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks for clarifying my miscue on your story about competing against the M3. I must have misread it. Not that I don't believe you could actually beat one, but that would take some doing!
Well Colleti called me and said he 's shipping me the Axxis Metal Masters which he 's pretty sure are the same ones as the last gen Civic, and thinks Axxis hasn't updated their catalog and part #s yet.. He said he was out of stock on the HP+ for the Civic and got confused thinking I was ordering them for the GSR which he had in stock.. And since I didn't seem very happy about going with the more aggressive HP+ he decided to ship the MMs which he said I 'll be much happier with than the HPS (which I don't mind since I 'm happy with the MMs on the GSR). He said if they don't fit on my '01 Civic, he 'll pay for me to ship them back. He also gave me a pretty good deal - $45 w/no shipping since he 's throwing them in the same box as the rotors.. I had paid $55 for the MMs last year shipped so this is $10 or 22% cheaper.
The front '01+ Civic Brembo rotors are $28 ea. just like the GSR's but with $10 shipping each. I remember when Colletti Motorsports had started selling these I was one of his first few customers. He wasn't sure of the shipping and had to look into it back then. It ended up being $30 for all 4 (GSR) rotors. I didn't argue about it this time since there was no extra charge for the pads.
Well I 'm torn again.. The outsourcing deal at my job will be signed next week but we 're guaranteed minimum 6mos of employement which is not too bad and there 's a good possibility I may keep my job after that. I really want to switch to a 22mm sway bar (from my 19mm) and put a darn LSD in the car! but now my brother is saying he might be selling his Type-R in the Fall and I can have it if I want it. So I guess the right thing to do is probably go through the season without spending another dime on the car, sell it in the Fall and buy my brother's '98 ITR. I know I 'll be very competitive in DS with that car. The only problem is the Audi S4 AWD (250hp) is DS this year!! My brother already got his butt kicked by an S4 2 weeks ago at the Westchester club auto-x event which I couldn't make. My brother had street tire Azenis on though and I believe the S4 had R tires. It's hard to beat an S4 with 250hp & AWD, but I think the ITR is capable of kicking its butt with equal drivers. I 've seen it last year at NASA where there were 4-5 ITRs and 2-3 S4s and the top 2 ITR drivers never lost to an S4 (different classes though). The S4 must 've performed very poorly in AS last year against the older M3s (E36) & Boxters so I 'm pretty sure an ITR with a good driver can take it. These ITRs never cease to amaze me. They still PAX 1st even though they 're in DS now and still manage to come in the top 10 out of 100-140 cars. I can't wait till the Fall! His car still only has 13k mi. on it and is in showroom condition. I hope he 'll give me a good deal
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I am still looking at possible cars. I was thinking about spending somewhere in the neighborhood of 15 to 18 thousand. I have three years left of school, which will give me a bachelors in engineering. So I am still considering the integra. A civic would be ok, except they is a dime a dozen here on campus, I would rather stand out. My goal here is to buy a car that will be fun to play with, engine and appearance. I would also like for it to last through me paying off school loans.
And remember, don't get an auto!! Go for the GSR if you can but keep in mind it's the #1 stolen car in the US because of its most wanted VTEC motor that 'll fit in any '88-'00 Civic. That's 4,000,000 Civics out there and only about 40k GSRs of which more than 10% have been stolen already.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'94-97 Integra RS & LS came with 14" steel rims (4x100). I 've seen people put 14" Civic steel rims on them as well. Don't remember anything about removing caliper material. If I had to remove anything from my brake caliper I wouldn't do it at all. My brakes a lot more important than some 14" rims..
PS. Does anyone like the new townhall? I guess it 'll take time to get used to it.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
This is for daily driving so the light Rotas at 12lbs scare me a little because I 'm not sure what will happen to them if I hit a pot hole although I 'm told they 're pretty strong. I would think the 14.5-15lb Konigs should be a little stronger.. I would still like to have <12lb wheels though (Rota's new Attack 15x6.5 is 11.8lbs!) for under $500 so I have not made up my mind yet. $125 for an 11.8lb wheel sounds pretty darn good so I may go with the Rotas once I 'm reassured they can be strong enough for daily driving and can handle small potholes and road anomalies with no problem.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
My brother also just bought a 98 GS-R with 23K mi for $14K from a friend. The car now has 400/500 GCs, Bilstein shocks with ITR LCAs, ITR rear sway, OMP pedals, Carbotech Panther Plus, Toyo T1S, and homemade intake. It is a sweet car that kicks the crap out of my car (I mean, it has torque!!) and is truly too much car for an almost-17 yr old to be driving...but he worked for it and drives just like I do on the street: like a Grandma.
The slalom does not sound like a true auto-x tight slalom because we almost never go through it at 55mph. We 're lucky if we do 35mph through the slalom.
Tires DO get hot in auto-x. You 'll be surprised because all we do is make a lot of turns, U-turns, sweepers, etc. and drive to the adhesion limits of our tires. Before I auto-xed I thought the same thing even after watching 5 auto-x events without participating. Then when I started auto-xing I was surprised the beating my tires were getting. They were hot and getting worn down very fast. My Kumhos on the last event went from 37 cold to 42psi after my 2nd run. They were hot to the touch and hot air was coming out as I let some out.. The truth is that when I drive 90mph on the highway for a while and get out and check my tire pressures (on my V700), they have only gone up 2psi! That's why I don't mind driving on the R tires once in a while. Regular cruising doesn't warm them up much. A 35-50mph auto-x heats them up much more because it's the turns that warms them up.
Anyway congrats on your track day!! You 're ahead of us in that respect. I have yet to do 1 track event, probably because the nearest one is over 2hrs away. My racing buddies went last year but I had to work that weekend so maybe I 'll try going this year if I can get some people to go with. I was planning on getting the HP+ or R4S pads anyway for the GSR..
Wow, your brother is younger than you? That's a nice setup he has. Does he have the regular Bilsteins?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Garados, you don't need the A032s for the street. The are definitely overkill unless your car is being driven too and from racing. Some good bets for tires are the RE730s, Azenis, Kumho ECSTA Supras, etc. These are all cheap tires especially in the size you are looking at (205/50/15). If you want to step up, you will probably look at Toyo T1S, S-03s, BFG KD, Kumho MX, Pilot Sports, etc.
P.S. Harry, I drove almost four hours one way for my event. If you have the time, it is definitely worth your while and you will piss people off how fast your stinkin' import in around the track.
also, if I get these tires, i will be able to get some mild lowering springs. I'm eyeing the eibach prokit or the h&r race springs. I know the prokit has a higher spring rate and all, but I just want your opinions on springs that would lower, max, about 1.75 inches. preferably nothing that would require a camber kit. Thanks.
Garados: H&R Race springs have much higher rates than the Eibach Prokit!!! About 200lbs stiffer!
Don't get race ones for the street. You 'll regret the ride plus they 'll lower your car at least 2.5". You 'll be bottoming out a lot too.
What happened to the custom GCs you were going to get? About the Falkens, you want to get the VR rates Azenis 205-50 if you stay with a 15" rim. I 'm looking at the Rotas now too for my '01 Civic but I haven't decided which model to go with (15x6.5") yet.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
As for tires, I want a good street tire that will occaationally see track use. the azenis will wear faster than the yokohama 712's, right? so will I be better off with the 712's instead of the azenis? Thanks.
BTW, that guy with the "Mike Neary" setup GSR killed all the Type-Rs the weekend before at a NASA event by over 1.7secs! NASA only has 7 car classes so he was in D with all the ITRs, WRXs, etc. Killed all of them and have a very large lead. Not only that, he was only about 1/2sec. away from class A & B where the modded M3s & 911s are.
Last Sunday he showed up with Falken Azenis because the weather was vary questionable and it was raining in the morning plus there was a 40% chance of rain & thunderstorms all day. Although I was in E class (he was D) he was only .3s behind me on street tires and his SSR competition 9lb rims (it's the Panasport 13x8.5" that stick out of the fenders that make him superfast).
My main competition was a modded RS2.5 (2nd place) and an '02 325 (3d) with a PRO behind the wheel (used to own Miata & ITR before it got stolen) and a bunch of MR2s & Miatas on R tires! Probably about 12-15 cars in my class. I managed to get 1st place but I was sweating the whole time
Now when I get the coilovers I 'll be bumped up to the D class (at NASA & Mclub) where I 'll most likely get my butt kicked
So what's everyone doing? Chem, have you auto-xed yet?
Casey: Happy Father's day!
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Also, Happy Father's Day to everyone who deserves it.
Harry, are you looking at the GCs also? What rates?
Okay guys, I kinda have a cool dilemma. I figure by the end of the summer I will have close to $2K for me to put into my car. (I am working 40+ hrs per week...in my main job). Lots of things I am looking at, what would you spend it on? Possibilities (not limited at all):
-August 3-4 TWS, hotel---$400
-several autoxes---$100
-hardwire Valentine One---$50
-rear discs---$400
-Project Detail---$400
-junkyard headlights, CTR rear lip, paint---$350
-4 pt rollbar---$350
-Craftsman 246 piece set, box--$250
-Power Bleeder--$60
-Shop Vac--$70
-Car Number Magnets--$40
-Pedals---$35
-Security (autolock, kill switches, etc.)--$100
-brake ducting---$25
-brake compressor tool--$10
-driving gloves---$25
-exhaust work (weld smaller tip)---$40
-aluminum hub rings---$25 (do I need to worry about these??)
-CTR front grill, paint, amber sidemarkers---$100
Really only the first firve items are set in stone. The "Project Detail" thing is me buying a buffer and lots of detailing stuff mostly from 3M and P1S. My brother and I will probably split the costs. Also am thinking about getting some stiffer springs as my car feels soft though still fun to drive. Am looking at $130 H&R, Neuspeed on up to custom rate GCs ($350?). Would really like to hear some opinions.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Why's this costing $50? That's an easy DIY project.
<< brake compressor tool--$10 >>
If you've got a big enough c-clamp laying around you won't need to buy anything.
Harry, definitely remove your VTEC badge.
Hawkeye, with the V1, I was going to get the kit that allows the socket to still be used externally. I couldn't remember the exact price, though, and overestimated like I did on almost all the ideas.
Thing is, I don't have a big enough c-clamp in my garage...trust me, I know. My tools currently consist of:
-basic metric/english socket set
-basic small metric wrench set
-Craftsman 3 ton floor jack and stands
-Dewalt electric drill
-torque wrench
-assorted pliers, clippers, strippers
Another incentive for the detailing stuff is that I will detail cars in my neighborhood as a side job. The only cosmetic mod I was actually considering is the rear lip just because it hides some of the shiny muffler, I can paint it myself, and I think it looks neat...that's all.
More and more, I am thinking of spending as little as possible now and saving for a swap (wouldn't be that far away). I don't think I would actually do the swap until after my undergraduate studies. But then I start thinking, "Why swap when I can save towards my next car (S2000, 350Z, etc.)?" I am so confused. Older, wiser people that know what I should do please insert answer here ___________.
Forgot about that gismo, since I don't use it. You can always hardwire the V1 now and add the module later.
Anyway, a motor swap will cost a lot less than even a used S2K or 350Z in a couple of years BUT you still have a Civic and you will hardly get any more money than book value for all the mods you 've done. I don't know your financial situation but a 4yr old S2K or used 350Z might be within your reach in a couple of years. The problem is, when you get out of school you 'll probably have school loans to pay like we did (or you may not, if daddy is paying in full) and it may be very difficult for you to pay those back plus a big car payment. Especially if you want to move out of the house and get your own place or whatever. The smartest thing to do is probably to wait till you get a job after school. That way you 'll be working full time and not part-time or summers and you should be able to afford many things you now want. It's very hard going to school and being able to afford the cars you mentioned.
Also the biggest advise I can give you, is to live at home as long as you can! You save up a lot $$ that way and can buy more expensive toys
My brother who is a year older stayed home till he was 30! He had $50K in the bank by the time he was 25 and $100K before he was 30 with an average paying HVAC controls engineering job. I always made more than him but managed to save very little or nothing for a while due to all my bills and expenses. He lived at home, ate mom's home cooking and paid next to nothing for rent ($300/mo!). Unfortunately he got into the stock market and lost his shirt a few years ago and continues to do so..
In other words take advantage of your parents and their home for a couple of yrs after you get out of college
4yrs away but I hope you 'll remember.
It's very tempting to move out in order to have your privacy and a better social life when you have a good job and a steady pay check but you 'll have a hek of a lot more bills and might tend to go into debt or take more loans out which will set back your financial progress or your goals (like buying a nice sports car). Second biggest advice I can give you, is not to get anyone pregnant and don't marry young
Sorry for the long note. I tend to do that a lot lately :-)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
First, Happy belated Father's Day to you, too, Harry. I had a very pleasant and relaxing day. Hope your's was enjoyable.
About two weeks ago the ATL region had it's 4th Solo II points event. The course they set up was more technically difficult than I've ever experienced, and not very easy to memorize either. Still, I did OK, and finished third out of 12 cars. Thought I had a lock on second place until one of the STS regulars had a low 66.xxx sec. run on his final run, where he was running high 68.xxx secs. before and I was running mid 68 secs. The 66.xxx run this guy had would have won the class had he not coned on that run. But even with the cone penalty of 2 secs. added he beat me by .2 secs. for second place.
This past Sunday I came in 1st out of 18 cars at the M-Club (a non-SCCA club in NJ, 1hr away). I 'm shooting for a season trophy this year because I signed up for a membership (it's $10 less if you 're a member) and they give out really nice trophies there. Nice heavy 9" diameter oval ones (for 1st place only) with 2 big checkered flags in the middle and a gold plate that says "M-Club 2002 1st place". Anyway, this club is like our local Nasa Club with only 7 car classes and 1-2 race classes. I was racing against 1/2 dozen Miatas (modded ones too), MR2s, BMWs, etc. I thought I was dead meat but got lucky
I think this might be the most cars I 've ever beaten in a single event.
Anyway, I only won by .2sec and these 18 cars got me thinking that maybe I need to do some more stuff to my car so I can help myself maintain my 1st place status, so I picked up a Comptech 22mm sway bar new in the box that someone was selling at the last event. I 'm going to try and put it in before next weekend's event. I don't expect a big difference over the 19mm but hey, every little thing helps.
I was reading the instructions and it says you have to drill-out the existing holes where the "backing plates" go. The urethane bushings look nice and are red in color. It also comes with Comptech endlinks. I hope it 'll fit fine with my Neuspeed rear lower tie bar. If not I 'll just remove it. It was only $69 and it made little difference.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I have an appointment with a local imports shop to install it tomorrow. They said 1-1.5hrs which is $65-100. $100 is a little high because I paid $70 for my 19mm 2.5yrs ago but that was at a race shop in Queens, NYC and I don't feel like driving 60mi. each way and paying $11 tolls for NYC bridges. It comes out almost the same if I went down there.. I saved at least $70 in the sway bar so it's almost like I 'm paying no labor at all.
I just came back from the tire shop where I had Rota Attack 15x6.5" wheels installed on my '01 Civic EX with RE950 195-60 tires. The Rotas came in last night and are only 12.7lbs (per Revolution Motorsports - they 're running a groupbuy). I weighed one on my bathroom scale and sure enough the needle was right between 12 and 13lbs. Felt very light when I picked one up. Felt a little lighter than my K1s which we weighed at my friend's digital scale at 12.98lbs. They were $475 shipped. Can't beat that for a decent 12.X lb rim. Tirerack charges over $50 to ship rims.. They 're supposed to be pretty strong according to many people that have Rotas. Craftsmanship overall looks and feels a step above the K1.
Oh I also had Brembo rotors put on but the Axxis Metal Masters pads didn't fit. Steve Colleti said there was a possibility they might not fit because he shipped me '00 Civic Metal Masters, but said he 'll pay for to ship them back if they don't fit. So now I have to call him and get HPs or something else. I have the old pads on the Brembos now but I want to get rid of them quickly before they ruin my new rotors. The car now stops worse because I don't have the "resin" on the rotors yet so I drove carefully. I also followed the instructions that came with the Metal Masters on how to brake pads in and seat them properly (in general) just in case. That was nice of them to include that. It basically says drive up to 30-35mph and then apply the brakes mildly to moderately and come to a full stop. Do this 10 times they said with 30sec. cooling periods in between. Avoid heavy or panic braking unless you really have to (duh, yeah lets get into an accident because we don't want to mess up our $45 pads) the first 200mi. So I think this would be for used pads too because they need to bed-in with new rotors.
The offset of the 15x6.5" Rotas is 40mm but they 're pretty close to the outer edge of the fender well. The tires won't rub but you can tell the rims are much farther out than before. I guess I just have to get used to them and the way the car looks now. It almost looks like these rims don't go with the car but it's a matter of getting used to looking at it. They definitely wouldn't look good on the Integra. The K1s look much better on the Teg. The Attacks are 5 spoke and it looks like the wheel needs at least 1 more spoke, like it's missing something. Oh well, I'll get used to it. I mainly needed 2 sets of rims for summer and winter tires.
What's everyone doing lately? M-Club racing this Sat. for me
I hear those Minis are doing pretty well in auto-x, especially the base one in H Stock. The S is not doing too bad either in D and are usually right behind the ITRs..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Gotta run now. More later....
I 'm sure I 'll feel the difference with the 22 one. The question is how much difference, but I don't really care. I 'll be happy as long as I notice an improvement. This bar is about 2yrs old so I 'm hoping the urethane bushings haven't aged or anything. Everything is in a sealed bag though. 2hrs till installation and counting..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)