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The VagCom software is VERY powerful and one must use care when using it. Engine damage is possible.
Here is the link to VagCom:
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/
Here are some links to related stuff (a free version of software called "pro-diag")
http://www.shadetreesoftware.com/downloads/manual.pdf
http://www.andywhittaker.com/ecu/obdii_hardware.htm
Here is a PDA-based software:
http://www.prweb.com/releases/2003/2/prweb57712.php
If you have the "Climatronic" option, here is some cool stuff you can do with it:
http://www.b5glx.com/climatronic.html
"Oil companies were obliged to refine so much crude oil to supply gasoline that they were left with a surplus of distillate, which is an excellent fuel for diesel engines and much less expensive than vegetable oils". quote from bio-diesel article below
http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp
This second link is a great article on those considering biodiesel.
http://www.eia.doe.gov/oiaf/analysispaper/biodiesel/index.html
Diesel is very close to home heating oil, and thus its price increase every fall and decrease every spring. Oil companies divert more production of the same base oil to HHO when it's cold, and diesel supplies actually are reduced. Diesel also requires additives in colder weather to prevent gelling and waxing.
Just to clarify... the distillate mentioned is referring to petroleum, not gasoline - petroleum being crude oil.
kcram
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Smart Shopper and Wagons Message Boards
On the '06 [based on the new 5th-gen Golf platform], yes, the current word on the street is that the Jetta will be the first one released, probably in the late spring of '05. CAUTION: being an early adapter on a new platform carries risks, especially with a brand like VW that already has plenty of reliability problems to start with. I sure wouldn't be buying this car for at least 12 months after production starts on the new one.
mpg 75-80mph with cruise control most of the time and AC running all the time cause im in FL. Will? When or How will i see 46mpg like it says and so many claim.
Also i check the oil level between fill-ups it is ok but the oil seems much dirtier than a gas engine is that normal? Will it get more mpg with age.
There is also some inaccuracy in fueling if you don't top-off the tank (actually vent the tank and see the fuel up in the neck). Doing this will generally get you another gallon or so (which would make your mpg worse the first time) and will make the tank fills consistent over time.
The oil color is quite normal for diesel. It has soot in it and will dirty up the oil quickly, however diesel oil is specifically designed to suspend these soot particles so there is no damage. It's good to check the oil level, although I'm lucky to check mine once between 10k mile oil changes. In 90k miles, I don't think it has ever been more than 1/8" from the full mark on 10k mile intervals.
i thought every 3k for a diesel especially.
The oil in a diesel does get black pretty fast. This is due to SOOT suspended in the oil. Diesel oil is DESIGNED to handle that much soot.
Just follow VWs recommendatation but MAKE SURE you use the approprate lubricant. (VW 505.01 for your engine) Any other oil will cause engine damage.
This specific oil is available from VW dealers or from Motul ( http://www.motul.com/uk/produits/index.html )
Speaking of oil changes, I'm the guy with oil in the intercooler. I have records indicating that I changed the oil on average every 4K miles, but I have one interval of nearly 7K miles (I think I changed it in between there but can't find the receipt.) The dealer indicated that I'd have to produce records showing oil changes with no interval greater than 5K. Do you think I'm hosed on my 100K mile power train warranty???? Any opinions out there? Thanks.
One last comment. I just got back from Belgiun and my host owns a 2003 VW Sharan minivan with a 1.9 L TDI and automatic transmission. Its as big as a Voyager and was surprisingly peppy. My friend indicated he gets 30+ mpg. Wish we could get that minivan over here!
The dealers can say anything they want, but that doesn't make them right. Perhaps he just doesn't know (which is quite common for VW dealers). Your owners manual tells you the requirements for that engine, and as long as you can produce records showing oil changes at the specified intervals with the specified oil, they can't deny warranty for that reason. They'll have to dig up some other excuse not to cover it;)
Has anyone confirmed that this oil in the intercooler is a problem? Most everything internally with these has a nice oily coat to it thanks to the EGR and CCV system. I've never physically looked inside my intercooler, but most all the piping leading to it has some soot/oil in it. Perfectly normal, at least for the way these are designed.
As for oil change intervals, the manual calls for 10k miles on synthetic oil. I've tested mine a couple times and the oil has never been even close to actually needing changed. Even at 12k miles on one change. I'm running Delvac 1 with an OEM filter.
i thought every 3k for a diesel especially.
This does many good things for the engine-systems including blowing most of the oil from the intercooler into the engine. It has also been shown to reduce the "intake plugging" phenomonon on the TDI.
It has pretty well been established that babying the TDI over 1000s of miles of driving is ASKING for troubles. 2-3 full-throttle accellerations for each tank of fuel is a good rule-of-thumb.
2005 Jetta TDI GL - dealer cannot find problem, and no errors on the computer.
Any ideas?
also cold weather starts only outside temp in the 20,s car starts fine but seems to run rough for a few seconds, no drivabilty problems. is this normal for diesel cold starts
Also the mineral oil used for one part of the filtration process CAN migrate to the MAF which CAN cause problems.
If you feel the stock "snow" snorkel is too restrictive, believe it or not you can remove it and let the air come in from the bottom corner opening to the air box. Obviously you would have just removed the prophalactic device and its attending "benefits" for what it was designed to do.
I read of some folks stating their wear metals and contaminants increased when they switched to a foam/resuable filter. So I through in an OEM paper filter (in place of the amsoil foal filter I had used for 50k miles) and retested my oil at the next interval. They were right, my wear metals and "dirt" levels were lower than any previous test. Now, previously my oil testing looked fine, everything was perfectly within spec. However, IMHO lower is better and I'll spend the very minimal extra money on the paper filters.
Having said that though, with the check engine light coming on a few times in the past few weeks, I finally took the car into the dealer. They held the car for 4 working days, checking out a starting problem and looking into the issue raised by the check engine light. Sure enough, the turbo was bad. The service manager indicated the turbo's wastegate was stuck. They replaced the full turbo assembly at no charge to me (would have been $3K). I believe this 10yr power train warranty is on the 0200 and 2001 model yrs only and only extends to the original owner - I feel pretty lucky.
They did hit me up for $500 to clean the intake and EGR twice - they blamed the starting issues I had recently encountered to massive carbon build-up. He indicated that this is never a problem in Europe and shouldn't be an issue here either in about 18 months when the new diesel fuel formulation rules come into effect.
Does anyone know if we will have to do anything to our TDI's with the new diesel fuels coming out in 2006?
I Brought a new VW Gof on 10/22/04 and drove back 7 miles to where i live. after i drove 3 miles the next day the ENGINE MALFUNCTION showed up. I took it back right away (10/23/04) We waited 2 hrs while they fixed the car and went home (7MILES). The very next day(10/24/04)after another 3 miles teh SAME PROBLEM. Since the dealership is closed on sunday. I had to call them on monday and scheduled an appointment for tuesday(10/26/04) and dropped the car off. THey tested and repalced some engine part and told me that i should not have to worry for another year at least.They delivered me the car on Friday (10/28/04) This time the car was problem free for exactly 1-1/2 day. Same problem again on(10/30/04). Then I dropped the car off on 11/01/04 .They called me on 11/3/04 and told me that they would have to replace teh complete turbo component.
By this time i had completely run out of patience and my excitement of getting a new car.
So i went to the dealer on 11/03/04 and dropped the keys off and requested a replacement as they clearly haven't sold me a car that works.
This was a defective car. the only mileage that put on this car is from going backl and forth from the dealers place.
SO FAR VW USA AND THE DEALER HAVENT BOTHERED TO CONTACT ME ABOUT THE REPLACEMENT OR REFUND FOR THE CAR. I HAVE FAXED MAILED AND CALLED MULTIPLE TIMES BOTH VOLKSWAGEN USA AND THE DEALER. - NO RESPONSE
THIS IS SINCE 11/3/04.
Oh by the way the dealership that sold me this peice of junk is
VW OF SPRINGFIELD, SPRINGFIELD, VA
and the service manager on 11/19/04 calls and tells me that i can do whatever and they are going to do nothing.
DO I DESERVE THIS FOR PUTTING 21,000.00 into their hands. I wanted to buy a NEW car & this is my first purchase ever.. please help..
If any of you know what i should be doing.. let me know.
I just want to get my money back now, anyone know how to handle this, to qualify for alemon i should use the car and get teh same problem a 4th time. but i dont want to touch the car. remember 10 miles and problems..
shall appreciate any suggestions or help
email me neelapala@netscape.net
an am really happy with it , I have the GLS model with leather and wood ,It rides well and the MPG is 35 in urban low country no hill's to speak of, I have not been on a long trip to see what the MPG would be . My wife drives a Lincoln Town car and I can honestly say that the Interior finish and attention to detail is much better on the Passat, I know I am comparing apples to orange's but well made is well made.
No car manufacturer in the world is going to consider a buyback in the circumstances you describe. Period. You have to give them a reasonable number of chances to fix the car. Three times is, in most states, the bare minimum threshold for consideration under the lemon laws, and in some states, your turbo problem wouldn't qualify anyway.
As frustrating as it is, and it would be for me, the approach I would take is to get an interview with the General Mgr of the dealership. Tell him/her that you want a loaner while they definitively fix the car. Tell them to take as long as they need, but get it right. In the meantime, consult your state's lemon law rules to be prepared in case you have to take it to the next level.
From my research, that dual-clutch automatic tranny shifts like an automatic but has the efficency of a manual. It actually has 2 seperate power-paths each with its own clutch. The gear is ALLREADY enguaged and the electronics swaps between the clutches to change gears. It is currently available on high-end Audis.
We also have a 2003 TDI Golf with 43,000 miles. Only two minor gliches, a sunroof leak (always park with the nose uphill and keep the rubber sunroof drains clear) and a bad AM antenna.All covered by warranty as well as a headlight bulb which went out 2 weeks ago. I get 40 mpg city/50 mpg highway.
Find another dealer to do the warranty work and read the TDI club info.
My wife is the proud owner of a 2004 Jetta TDI. I am so impressed with the car, I am not looking for a Golf TDI or possibly another Jetta. Most of the cars I see for sale are outside California. I need to know what the restrictions, risks and hastles of buying and bringing a car into CA from elsewhere. I called the CA department of Motor Vehicles and go no help. They did say the car has to be a 50 state car! How would I know this.
My other questions is about 'salvage title' cars. Is this a risk too?
Any advice welcome,
Kevin
Sacramento, CA.
"I'm bringing a used car into CA for the first time, and it is a diesel and not CA-certified. What do I have to do?"
The car cannot be made to meet current CA regulations, and thus cannot be "certified", as most gasoline cars can. However, when a new resident moves to CA with such a car, they are not generally required to sell the car, as long as it has a certain number of miles on it that "proves" that the car was not purchased out of state just to circumvent the regs.
Bottom line: Since you are already a CA resident, the hassle factor is indeed considerable. Better to wait until the car meets CA regs [the '06 or '07 model year].
DMV did say something about checking the VIN # or 50 state sticker? I don't know how to do that when buying from a prvate party.
Kevin
Insist that any PP selling the car take a digital picture of the sticker and send it to you via e-mail, or ask to have the car inspected by an authorized VW dealer before closing the transaction. I would also check with your nearest VW dealer to verify that the car you're bringing in is one they can confirm was originally legal for sale in CA.
If your EGR problem is the ol' "intake clogging" issue that all TDIs endure, then there is nothing you can pour into the fuel tank that will magically fix it. Lets not forget that diesel fuel should NEVER be present in the intake manifold.
Instead of guessing that plugging is your problem, a physical inspection of the intake plenum is trivial to do and will tell you if it needs to be cleaned.
Do not forget that for the EGR to be flagged as a problem, it only takes a minute difference in the calculated airflow -vs- the actual airflow.
adding B100 doesn't reduce the existing crud in the EGR/intake manifold. It does reduce the it's formation (with less soot). Since B100 is a good solvent, chances are. the B100 added to the tank may clean the lines out and end up clogging the existing fuel filter.
You'll have to remove the intake manifold to clean it completely (not a fun job). You can use B100 to clean the intake manifold and EGR. Plenty of information at Fred's about it.
Depending on what part of VA you're you can do to 2 things to mitigate (well 3 things) the crud in the intake:
1. EGR mod which reduces the exhaust gas recirculated back into the intake (depending on the part of VA you live in, you may not have to worry)
2. Get something to "filter" out the oil in the ventilated cranckcase air, such as the Mann Provent CCV or something
3. Use biodiesel to reduce the soot ouput.