Volkswagen TDI Models

homerkc · December 2004

As a previous owner of a total of three Volkswagens, the latest a 1995 Golf, I am considering taking the plunge again on a TDI Golf. Some comments (incl. Consumer Reports) suggest reliability is a problem on the latest version cars. What is your experience?

tdi_tan · December 2004

window regulators did impact it somewhat (2003 models got revised ones and extended warranty on pre 2003 models).

then there was the ignition coil fiasco...not a problem for TDIs (no spark plugs).

The TDI engine is not problemic, there are known issues (intake crud that requires cleaning).

MAF sensor failures...happens to both gas and diesel

vzh9p7 · December 2004

VW (2003 Jetta TDI), is in for it's 60K mile maintenance, and they said the tires are about shot. Now, I really like the Michelins that came on it, but I'm not a high-performance driver or anything. I've also heard Michelins are kind of "soft" and wear fast. I'd hoped to get more mileage from them (replaced the F150's tires at 120K)...particularly since nearly ALL of our driving is freeway, but in Michigan.

Any recommendations?

ruking1 · December 2004

Oem Michelin's seem to have a range of wear rates between a normal 30,000 miles to a higher of 95,000-up miles. Other than longer life I am not sure of some of your other parameters, but here are a few of my top picks when I go to replace my OEM Goodyear LS-H's.

Goodyear Triple Tread (700 utoq vs400 for oem Michelins) T rated

Goodyear Comfort Tread (700 utoq vs400 for oem Michelins)T rated

Kumho Ecsta HP4-716 H

BF Goodrich Traction T/A H

Falken Ziex ZE 512 H

Yokohama Avid H4S

As you probably have read, the GY Triple Treads and the Falken 512's are "directional tires" so if you plan to stay with the oem recommended rotation pattern, no problems or concerns.

I have implemented a 5 tire cross rotation, I am at 46,000 miles on my oem Goodyear LS-H's and am projected to go a min of 85-95,000 miles.

You can do a sort of modified 5 tire rotation with directinal tires. If you decide on this combination let me know and I can describe who what why when and how.

vzh9p7 · December 2004

As usual, thanks for the information; I'll go start checking some of these out. Yes, I'd like longer life; but we are particularly fond of both the traction and the ride quality that the Michelin's have, and from what I've heard, going to a longer wearing tire (e.g., harder), might impact that.

The dealer wanted just under $600 for the Michelins.

mase · December 2004

Sounds like a good deal to me... mind if I ask the dealers name? I'm thinking about buying one here in Colorado.

Many thanks.

homerkc · December 2004

I put Avid H4s on a 95 Golf and the tire wear was horrid. They wore out faster than any other tires I've seen. However, I have Yokohama Avid TOURING tires on my Dodge Intrepid, and those are great tires. Stay away from the H4s.

Pirellis are a good choice - and the Tire Rack web site has a wide variety of reviews and user comments. Take a look.

garland · December 2004

I was at my VW dealer today and was advised by the service manager that VW has cut the price of their Castrol synthetic TDI 505.01 oil down to $4.95 a quart. Also said that their 1.8 gas engine now requires the 505.01 oil. This will help a great deal to lower the cost of an oil change. GRB

dpl · December 2004

Hi All, I was reading my VW service manual for my 04 TDI Jetta that came with the vehicle. Noticed at the 10,000 mile service interval to drain the water separator. What is it, and where is it on the engine?

Thanks

ruking1 · December 2004

As you stand at the front of the vehicle looking into the opened hood, it is like 11 inches behind the front headlight on your left nearest the right side front fender. (passenger side) It has a series of tubes emanating from this clamped down cylinder shaped filter. The plastic screw is at the bottom of this filter " hidden " by surrounding parts.

bpeebles · December 2004

As alluded to above, it is not "on the engine" at all.The "water seperator" is really just the fuel-filter housing. The drain for it is on the bottom of the fuel filter housing. Most folks report that there is VERY LITTLE water that ever comes out of it. (Unless they got a tankful of contaminated fuel.)

Also, do not forget that most TDI owners put some kind of diesel fuel addititive in at each fueling. The additive virtually eliminates water in the fuel. (It also improves MPG, reduces smoking and keeps the injectors clean)

yleralec · December 2004

This past week, I drove from east Tennessee to Northern Utah. About halfway, the fuel consumption increased from about 40 mpg to the low 30's. Performance seemed a little sluggish also. Has anyone else observed this? It happened before I got to the higher altitude in Wyoming. Could it be winterized fuel? Do I need to take it to a dealer for a diagnosis?

Any suggestions?

ruking1 · December 2004

I am guessing winterized fuel. A short while back I went from Durango, CO up to Moab UT hooked up with I 70 S to go to I 15 S to go to Las Vegas NV. 606 miles in 7 hrs of driving time and got 48 mpg (most all driving was done at altitude!

vwinva · December 2004

Has anybody used this? How does it compare to Powerservice's Diesel Kleen?

www.duralt.com

crazedcommuter · December 2004

You're right about the BF Goodrich Traction T/A H tires. They are a good tire. I put them on in August and have about 12k on them. They handle great dry and wet but haven't had them in the snow yet. I bought them because they're suppose to be good in the snow. I commute to Wash. DC and so far these have been great. I rotated them twice and am due for #3 soon. They are a little on the noisey side but I guess that's the price you pay for the chunky tread design.

crazedcommuter · December 2004

Hey TDI'ers. I'm new to the board and new to the TDI. I'm looking for an economical good handling car to replace my '02 Focus ZX3 that has 70k on it. I drive approx. 35k a year commuting back and forth to Wash. DC from Eastern WV and have been researching the TDI as my replacement. I checked out an "03 Jetta GLS with 22k on it in Hagerstown, Md. Cloth seats(not heated), 5M, power opts., sunroof,cd and cassette. Dealer price is 18,500. I researched on Edmunds, but I'm not sure if this is a good price. Does this seem high? Also I'm reading about the EGR Mods, and crud in the MAF sensor, etc. Is the TDI reliable without sinking a ton of cash into the maintenence? Thanks to all.

tdi_tan · December 2004

$18,500 does seem high

the EGR mod helps reduce the liklihood of intake crud. The other side is a Mann Provent for the PCV system.

Overall it's pretty reliable.

The MAF problems is on the gas engine also

crazedcommuter · December 2004

Yea, I thought that 18500 was high. I'm thinking of offering 2K less after I test drive it. Ads far as the Mann Provent: is it an easy after market fix? Also I've been reading alot about adding soot reducer and other additives with each tankful of diesel. Is this a performance issue? Also, can the TDI be fueled on truck stop fuel or would I need to use the diesel pump at the gas station? Thanks to all for answering my questions because I'm neww to all of this.

ruking1 · December 2004

To address some of your concerns, I am thinking that if you do 35,000 miles per year as a commute, the 2003 TDI might almost be a perfect fit (i.e., this vehicle was MADE to do what you need it for, mostly long distance freeway miles). We currently do app 26,900 per year. I am very impressed so far. (app 47,000 miles)

While I have driven and ridden in the Focus, (I didn't like it) I do not have a sense of how it has worn on you. I also don't have a feeling as to price appropriateness for your area and demand level. However, I was almost shocked to find that my 2003 VW Jetta TDI actually sells for MORE than what I paid for it new.

For sure do the EGR mod. As for crud in the MAF sensor, use the oem air filters. I would not use the oiled gauze or foam aftermarket products.

I personally divide the maintenance issue into scheduled and unscheduled. the major key maintenance points seem to be at the 100k intervals (or 2.86 year marks for you). This is a timing belt change. (seems the bell shaped curve is app 90-120k miles) Since the coolant system is breached during this procedure, while you can reuse the G12 product, it actually is a good time to change the coolant. While water pump changing is not required at this interval due to the mk4 design it is highly recommended.

If you are not a clutch grinder, useful life can be as high as 450,000.

After the meager mileage warranty (50,000) I am good to go to 15,000 and or 20,000 miles between oil and filter changes.

So tire rotation (10k) and brake pad checks will seem to be the majority of the items. Of course air filter changes (40k), cabin filters (20k)and fuel filters (20k) need changing also. Brake fluid bleeds (2 years)

My goal is to run this thing 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles. With proper care and maintenance I see no reason why you can't do it also.

Most assuridly you can use #2 diesel at truck stops. I would not use the high flow pumps unless you know what you are doing and are alright with an occasional spill!

But at every truck stop I have fueled, there is an auto diesel area.

Since you live in the winter area, you might probably want to get into the whole additive discussion. Bottom line is you "might" want to do a winter fuel additive (anti gel)..(Primrose (and others) makes a winter fuel treatment. I use Primrose 405 which is a cetane booster, H20 emulsifier and fuel lubricity agent. I honestly can not tell a performance difference between treated and untreated fuel

I would be remiss if I didn't mention that the VW has a reputation for weird part's failures. You of course have alluded to it with the MAF failures. While the 2003 as been absolutely flawless for me, my sense of it is: the VW corp has a begrudgingly slow constant improvement policy

sebring95 · December 2004

I personally would hold-out for one with the cold weather package. The diesels don't heat up as quickly as many other vehicles and the seat heaters are terrific. Shouldn't change the price of the vehicle hardly at all since you're shopping used. You might look around as the prices vary greatly by location. Chicagoland and Texas seem to be more reasonable price wise and airfare is usually cheap too. I bought mine out of Texas and it was about $1500 cheaper than anything I could find locally at the time.

ruking1 · December 2004

I appreciate your "heads up on the BFG Traction T/A-H. Right now, I am really leaning toward getting those. I have to admit however that Goodyear has really tried to get out of the "BAD YEAR" tire making business and have some real strong products in the Assurance Triple Tread and Comfort Tread. One small thing that is holding me back is the T rating. But I sense that it might be a very small issue.

tdi_tan · December 2004

the Mann Provent system is fairly expensive, but a relatively easy install.

oiled filters, OEM paper filters...they both kill the MAF. I have a K&N on mine-- 90,000 miles and on the original MAF. Though I do clean my MAF regularly. Takes a couple of minutes to do while I let the oil drain during oil changes.

One thing also that needs regular maintenance is the "snow screen". Chances are, it has not been cleaned. This is located at the front of the car, behind the headlight. It is a fine mesh screen that prevents snow from entering the airbox, and acts as a pre-filter

crazedcommuter · December 2004

Thank you for providing your techical knowledge of the TDI. Being a "gas man" for 25 years has made me a diesel rookie. The info that you provided is excellent reference material.

I feel that the 18500 price is high. The salesman has called me 3 times since Monday. I know they're eager to sell due to the fact that there are approx. 30 used VW's on the lot as well as 15 04's as of 12/30/04. Price seems to vary quite a bit between my area and the DC/Baltimore metro. A co-worker priced a '04 Golf GLS TDI at the same dealer on Tues. and he was quoted 18100. So maybe I'll pursue that route.

I really need the longevity of this type of vehicle along with driving confort and 4 doors. The Focus ZX3is a fantastic handling car. If you test drive 1 again take it on a mix of high speed freeway and fast curves driving. The ST model has the same motor/trans. set up as the Mazda 3. The drivers seat has gotten increasingly uncomfortable lately. It seems to closing like a clam shell. Not much..maybe a few degrees, but enough that my 1 hr. commute gets uncomfortable. The only issue with the Ford was a power window switch fixed under warranty. The auto trans shifts well and gas mileage has been a consistant 30 mpg.

My last experience with VW was with the mid-80's rabbits. They handled great, got good mileage and had numerous electrical woes. When my sister traded her '86 Rabbit in '94, it ended the VW legacy in our family. We previously owned 2 Beetles, and 4 Rabbits, so I'm a little hesitant on taking the VW plunge again. I am encouraged that quality is improved by the feed back on this board. Thanks for your expertise.

ruking1 · December 2004

Best of luck in your search! While in theory the Golf is of the same platform, etc., it is a slightly different car. Small examples: 1. the spring rates are different 2. the cars sound different, i.e., the Jetta seems quieter.3. hatchback type vs rear truck type; etc, so I would spent as much time searching out the perceived differences especially with the 500k to 1 M and beyond time frame!

I actually like the look of the Golf better than the Jetta, but then I really started off wanting the Beetle TDI !!

Also as bpebbles has mentioned, it might be worth the effort to buy the TDI's in area's where the price is not so "dear."

crazedcommuter · January 2005

Thanks again for the update. I did check out TDI's on EBAY as bpebbles had mentioned, and several dealers in Texas were 3-4k cheaper than in my area. I know people that have purchased cars this way but I'm a tire kicker. I work with a guy who flew to Miss. to pick up a Galant and the dealer threw in 3 laptops and 50 mixed cd's & dvd's. he was very pleased. I feel a little uncomfortable buying a used car from a dealer that's not commutable from my home.

Happy New Year to all.

ruking1 · January 2005

I certainly can understand that! I also try to buy and service locally when I can. To me it is worth the trip to TX or MS, etc, @ 3-4k cheaper. But when it comes to the TDI cars and the VW (self destruct)design (to be fair, Honda has a self destruct design also), it behooves one to search out the dealership, independent or franchise or even a specific person to do some of the major work. For example, when my timing belt and water pump needs changing, the particular person I would want to do the job lives out of state!?

vzh9p7 · January 2005

Okay ladies and gents....here's one for you....how do you replace the bulbs? I'm not talking about the one in front of the battery; I'm sure I can figure out a way to get to it...but just merely getting the old bulb OUT!

Here's the situation. About a week ago; passenger low-beam went out. I thought; okay...gotta be a bulb. Then I'm informed by the boss that the other one is out about a week later. Oops. I'm thinking bad things here. I checked the fuses today (all four are fine..and that's kind of interesting; four fuses for two lights and two status'--hi, lo). So I took a shoplight, and shown it up from the bottom with a dim bulb, and yep...sure enough, each side has one burnt-out filament. Strange that both would go bad in one week, and just the low beams...but okay...

I pulled off the back weather cover on the passenger side, and the bulb thing is even nice enough to have arrows to say "on" and "off"...but no matter how hard I turn by hand, I cannot get it out. I tried doing a little push and turn, a little pull and turn...but really thought, if I have to try this hard, perhaps I'm doing it wrong. Suggestions? Take a pair of Channel-locks to it? (I thought....nah....won't do that). Or just more hand torque?

I also saw other items on the 'net about taking off the bumper to change bulbs...but I really don't have to do that, do I?

Finally....okay to get replacements down at my local AutoZone, or should I pony up the bucks at the dealer? I don't mind, if it's an important OEM part (e.g., filters), but I paid $50 for wiper blades and thought "that's nuts"....time to start shoppping!

Thanks again for everything; I'm at about 65K and this is the first thing to replace (other than oil)....and no, haven't decided on tires yet, either. Although I am studying.

Thanks, Jason

bpeebles · January 2005

Although you do not specify, I will assume you are talking about the HEADLIGHT bulbs.

There is NO "push-n-turn" to remove the H7 bulbs ( http://www.autolamps-online.com/halogen/h7.htm ). Instead, there are a coulple of wire 'bails' that need to be unlatched so they swing out of the way. then the bulb just pulls straight out the rear of the headlamp assembly.

vzh9p7 · January 2005

Thanks. The little bails hold the back weather cover on; no problem getting those off, but the bulb was solid in there, with a little bevel ring that points counter clockwise "Off" and clockwise "ON". That's why I thought it was a push and turn. I found out, however, that it's actually a locking ring. You turn the ring CCW and THEN the bulb pulls out. There was even a complete set of instructions on the 'net, including pictures, to remove it. That made things a lot easier! Thanks for responding back.

hanky · January 2005

I negotiated down to $200 below invoice on a 2005 Jetta GLS TDI Wagon. Is that a good price?

ruking1 · January 2005

Yes!!

jack37 · January 2005

I am new to this post and have a question about the EGR system. I have owned my 99'Jetta TDI (87,000mi) for about four months and just shelled out $250 to have the EGR system cleaned. The mechanic said it was the worst he had seen, glad I could be at the top of that list. Has anyone had any luck getting VW to share some of this cost? Seems like a design problem and they should share some responsibility. Also, does anyone have any tips for keeping the system clean?

bpeebles · January 2005

This is a common problem with the TDI running on the cr@ppy NorthAmerican diesel fuel. It is beleived that the cruddy buildup is a combonation of the unburnd cr@p from the fuel and the oil vapor sucked from the crankcase via the PCV system.

There are several ways to help prevent this occourance. The easiest is to use full-throttle accelleration at least twice per tank of fuel. Also there is an 'adjustment' that can be done using a laptop computer and some special software. Basically, you turn down the amount of EGR that occours to the bare minimum that will not flag the CEL.

Also keeping the 'snowscreen' cleaned out reduces the amount of vacuum in the intake track...this, in turn reduces the amount of oil vapor that is sucked from the engine.

Some folks have replaced the factory PCV breather with some hoses and stuff that helps to seperate the oil-vapor from the PVC system.

deaner14 · January 2005

Does anyone have any knowledge about this device and if it works (well) with the TDI's?

I've been considering purchasing one and would like some additional input.

www.davisnet.com

Thanks

jasmith52 · January 2005

You must have teenage drivers. Oh to be young and stupid again.

From the website I get the feeling that the technology is independent of the type of car.

They just tap into the onboard computer to measure speed, accelation etc. before triggering an alarm and recording the event when high speed or caaeleration happen.

I suppose that it does what it says it does.

crazedcommuter · January 2005

What about tranny's? is the 5 speed manual the best way to go in the TDI, or is the triptronic ok? I have located a couple of TDI's with the Triptronic tranny, although I've never driven one. Are they reliable?

ruking1 · January 2005

I have the 5 speed manual. To me it is the way to go because of a higher emphasis on getting better mileage, etc, etc..

Automatics get app 8 mpg less. But yes they are very reliable. Also new they cost a premuim over the 5 speed manual.

There is another anomoly. You can do hp mods and the auto tranny will handle them much better and probably you will not need to do a clutch upgrade. This as opposed to: if you have a 5 speed manual doing a hp mod, you will probably have to change the clutch sooner if you keep the standard clutch, for a hp rating upgrade on the clutch.

If previous owners know the clutch secret for the TDI's, there is no reason why one can't get many years of service. We are talking 400-500k.

On the automatic there is of course a periodic tranny oil and filter service. But again with reasonable care and luck there is no reason not to have long life also.

rhs · January 2005

"If previous owners know the clutch secret for the TDI's, there is no reason why one can't get many years of service. We are talking 400-500k."

Ruking1....what is the clutch secret?

ruking1 · January 2005

The TDI has so much torque that under a lot of conditions you can merely find the friction point (and as soon as it pulls, let the clutch out all the way, asap) WITHOUT throttle input. So as a consequence, there is less wear because you can engage the clutch at less RPM's than say a like gasser motor and clutch combination.

pruzink · January 2005

On the passenger side of your engine compartment there is a galvanized fuel filter (right up on top). At the bottom of this filter there is a small white plastic drain valve. I really wouldn't worry about doing this as pretty much nobody ever finds water in it. If you buy your diesel fuel from a station that has good turn over on it's fuel you shouldn't have problems. I replaced my stock VW fuel filter with a Cat 2 micron filter from this website(http://www.lubricationspecialistllc.com/product_info.php?- cPath=29&products_id=138)which doesn't even have the water drain valve on it.

tdibob · January 2005

I am thinking of buying a Golf 2005 TDI automatic. Any advice. Thanks

TDIBOB

bpeebles · January 2005

You asked for Advice.

If you are getting TDI for the MPGs, dont go with the automatic. (the automatic consistantly returns between 5-8 MPG less than manual tranny)

If you live in cold climate, get the heated seats and consider adding "TDI heater" or some other way to heat the engine. (Otherwise you will drive for many miles with no heat.)

If you drive under slippery conditions, insist on ESP.

tdibob · January 2005

Thanks. I need to get an automatic as my wife cannot drive the manual. I have retired and MPG is not an issue. I am looking for a car which will be fun to drive.

TDIBOB

jrct9454 · January 2005

I see absolutely nothing wrong with the car with an automatic, and for the same reason as yours, it would be my only choice as well.

However, good luck finding an '05 Golf TDI automatic...maybe the rarest car in the whole VW line right now...

bpeebles · January 2005

My wife learned how to drive a stick when she drove a garbage truck. Even my daughter learned with and prefers to drive a stick. My daughter has been heard to say "A Volkswagen with an automatic is a sin"

Having a wife that can drive a stick is almost a prenuputual necessity ;-)

In any case, all my VWs have been loads of fun to drive. Good luck with your search for one with an automatic tranny.

cosmo · January 2005

Over the past 41 years I have owned 10 VW/Audi models. Three had automatics, and the first two automatics (a 1977 VW Dasher and a 1985 Audi 5000) were just OK cars that would have been great with standard transmissions. However, our 2004 Passat TDI is a new kind of VW experience. The TDI engine and the Tiptronic are a gratifying match, and we still get better fuel mileage than a manual-shift 1.8T. And yes, my wife is nice enough to let me drive her stick-shift rig on weekends so I don't lose my touch.

bearcat1 · January 2005

How can I tell if this is a problem? My wife's TDI is having a lot of problems starting in the cold. We get a lot of white smoke and it cranks a long time. The oil light comes on sometime when we try to start it. Any suggestions??

bpeebles · January 2005

My TDI has started at -10 after one glow.

For hard-starting TDIs, some folks suggest glowing up to 3 times before attempting to start.

The white smoke is normal.

I am not sure what you mean about the oil light coming on when you "try to start it"... the oil pressure is only expected to come up to spec AFTER the engine is running.

I assume that you are running the properly-speced SYNTHETIC oil. (greatly helps with starting)

My suggestion, install and use a "TDI heater" ( http://www.frostheater.com/ )

Also, chronic hard-starting has been traced to non-functioning glowplugs. They are easy to diagnose and replace.

Secondarrly, have the "injection timing" checked, it has a bearing to cold-temp. starting.

tdibob · January 2005

I change oil and filter on my Honda. Is it possible to change oil and filter on Golf TDI? Is the filter accessible?

TDIBOB

ruking1 · January 2005

Absolutely, do you want to do it the hard way or the easy way?

Volkswagen TDI Models

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