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Comments
The van was great for the first three years (while it was under warranty) and was the best deal when I bought it. The three years after the warranty ran out haven't been the best experience. I spent more on the van in the time I've had it than I did in the 11 years I had my '94 Maxima until I blew the engine in the Maxima. Yep, you guessed it... leaking gasket... but that was on a 12 year-old vehicle where the temp gage wasn't working. I should have fixed the temp gage and I probably wouldn't have blown the engine (hindsight being what it is)...
Well I'm not going to give the dealership or GM the $700 to fix it this time (they did such a good job last time that I'm having to do it again). A buddy of mine is a mechanic and will do it for less but it's still too expensive to fix a MANUFACTURING DEFECT that GM isn't standing behind.
Sad.
Euphorbia
I purchased a Chilton’s HVAC manual and a set of gages to diagnose the problem. The Chilton’s manual is so general that I am not getting anything from it. The gages indicate relatively normal low (About 32 psi) and high pressures (about 310 psi) at idle with the system on max. As I increase the throttle from about 1200 to 2000 rpm the high pressure quickly climbs to about 435 psi and the compressor shuts off. From these symptoms can anyone diagnose what is wrong with the system?
Another thought: Has the system ever been charged? Maybe someone charged it with R-22 by mistake.
Yet another thought: If the expansion device is a TXV, it could be stuck, or filled with trash causing the high side to back up.
Also installed kit. Could not find regulator that kit says to remove. Problem is compressor goes off every time get in van, What is problem?
Height seems OK. Is it the electrical height sensor? Can it be calibrated? Did put in new spring in dryer. Where does line from dryer go? Seems like it goes into side of van and comes out again to a T and then to shocks? What is the 1/4 inch tube from compressor T to frame for -- is it for the aux value for pumping up balls and tires from the hatch area? Is it unregulated?
Also, how hard is it to replace outer tie rod ends? Any tricks besides a pickle fork? Thanks.
There is a TSB on a new tie rod end and how to sand the sharp edge that "cuts" the rubber boots. The LF boot was cut on mine. However I replaced with Autozone units. They have grease fittings and a different geometry on the boot. I will say at 100K miles mine were still tight.
Can't comment on your other question
I found out a 1/2" copper 90 degree street ell fits perfectly over the drain nipple and goes all the way into the foam donut. I coated the inside of the elbow with silicone sealer before I put it on. The smaller side of the street elbow points down the front of the firewall and this will direct all the water out of the vehicle.
I did have the system charged when it blew a pressure relief valve on the front of the compressor. It happened when I parked the van and leaked off a lot of the oil and charge. The tech that looked at it only works on cars, trucks and semi's so I don't think they even have R22, but I will ask them if they have any in inventory. The tech said that everything looked ok and he could see where it blew but the relief valve looked ok. He recharged it with freon that had die added so that it would mark anywhere it may be leaking.
Your final thought is what I am thinking too. I'm hoping that someone with the same vehicle may have experienced the same thing to confirm.
Thank you for your insight,
Euphorbia
For a couple of years (2.5 actually) I came on this forum to read and learn and even sometime ask questions regarding my 2000 Montana with apprx. 100.000 Km.
As for now, My wife and I decided it was time to sell the van. We had put 5K $ on it sin November 2005 and we decided to go japenese.
It all started with the famous intake manifold, followed by 4 suspensions, disks and drums, starter (was 20 000K old :surprise: ) something in the exhaust system, abs light went on without warning even after the 4 wheel bearing were changed... And we are not talking about the transmission that had started to slip and gears where getting noisy. We tried to contact GM, only answered with offers on new vehicles.... :confuse: We tried to Love the van, but couldn't: We used to love that van, but we now felt that everyday, something could break.
Sorry for the bad news, I just don't think American cars are up to it anymore. They are good for as long as the warranty goes.
Take care you all...
Simon
Able to get a jump started and went home.
This is what I found out with the battery tester, the one with the little read, amber, green lights and the positive and negative connector at one end.
Anyway, I measured the car body ground and the positive jumper terminal located next to the fuse box on top of the battery, it showed very weak or dead battery. But when I measured the car body ground and the battery's positive terminal itself, it showed the battery was good.
I traced the wire from the positive jumper terminal and it goes directly to the battery positive terminal. I unbolted the battery positive terminal and saw that it was only little corrosion, however look careful there was rust on the bolt inside that connector. I worked the bolt and cleaned it up. Viola it worked.
So before replacing the battery or accusing the electrical gremlins in our van, make sure that all connections are cleaned. Weak battery connections can make our van acts like it has electrical gremlins.
--Hung
Kerry
So if you your wiper motor acts funny, there may be water in the system, try to high pressure air dry it first before going for a new one.
soon light came on Friday during rain storm
(7/28/2006). Still on (7/30/2006) after many trips and
code is P0441 (Evap system no flow during purge).
Checked fuel cap, evap canister, and hoses for damage
and cracks. Look OK.
What could it be? Any body have ideas or had this problem?
Thanks.
Can anybody give me some information on replacing the radiator on a 97 Venture. I have not had to work on this van before and don't know if I will need to do anything special. Does the rad drop out the bottom, or do you remove the upper engine mounts and lift it straight up?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
Dirk
98 olds GLS, 130k
The ECM should be located in the air cleaner assembly, not under the passenger seat.
Any thoughts or advice would be most welcomed.
My current issue involves paint delamination on the fiberglass hood panel. There are two significant areas (opposite corners) where there is bubbling and lifting of the paint from the underlying surface. There are no evident scratches or stone chips in these areas and so far, the paint hasn't flaked off.
Has anyone else experienced this? Is GM aware of it and/or willing to step up and take care of it? The paint on a 6 year old vehicle should not be degrading to this extent. Pls let me know if anyone knows about this.
Thanks - Tim
(spoke with the dealer AGAIN about this and they claim there are no bulletins or defects with regard to a vibration and suggested that we have the transmission looked at again... that was what started this problem, I think.
Thank you for your reply in the Montana forum, I am posting here as I read this forum more frequently than the Montana forum also.
It is nice to hear that your van is still going strong despite the start-up noise. Our van gets a lot of city and suburban miles on it which means it gets a lot running time in the "rattle-mode".
Replacing the wheel cylinders was fairly easy but I do not think I have all the air bled out yet as the pedal feel is somewhat spongy. The brakes work normally, there is no pumping or anything abnormal required just a little different pedal feel.
I bled the brakes the oldfashioned way with a helper so now my question: Is the bleeding required to be preformed with some special equipment due to ABS, traction control and all that stuff?
Also how do like the Gabriels compared to the originals?
Slappervan
When replacing the wheel cyl. I used a Minivac on the RR to suck out the air but couldn't get it to work on the LF. I used a helper (the wife)to bleed it. I believe dirkdaddy did it with a helper too. There is a bleeding sequence to follow if you get air in the system such as changing the master cyl.
I recently bought a DIYer brake bleeder from this outfit: http://www.motiveproducts.com/01products.html
I have used it on my 95 S-10 and it worked well. Amazing how dark the fluid looked. The S-10 brake pedal is firmer now. Plan on doing the same with the Montana when projects subside.
Gabriels vs OE.... actually couldn't tell any difference. The OE had started to leak and I knew it wouldn't heal itself. At the time Gabriels were available but I did have to put different fittings on to adapt to the shock.
Mark
The bottom of the air box cover has to be slipped into 4 slots which if you take your time and put some light down there, you can see what you are doing.
I also cleaned the throttle body while I was doing the air filter so I won't have to go back in there for a while
Has anyone bypassed the auto leveling and just used the rear shocks like regular air shocks?
The ride level is going up, but not going down. The vent for the system is not venting. I had new shocks put on recently but that should not be affecting the vent process.