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Got my first oil change at 7800. $32 at Whitby Toyota
On the milage I'd say it started doing really well after 5000km
RESS- Was told this is a result of the break-in period on new converters, I must say it is virtually gone.
CD - Yes exact problem, grinding when braking. My new one is on order, should only take a few days and 30 minutes was what I was told it would take to install, was happy to hear a "radio guy" was not being called in and that they do it themselves. Go figure, the one GM part doesn't work. God I hate GM, but anyways. So if they replace it and it has more problems I'd go right back.
On the armrest issue, I've have no complaints at all. I guess everyone has different opinions.
I am wondering whether the dealer is the best place for it or doesn't matter at all?
Any input is appreciated!
1st tank of gas 30 mpg - 2nd tank better.
Air conditioning a little weak - glad we didn't choose a dark color.
Stereo so-so, but no actual problems.
Overall, we love the car. We knew what we were buying and are not at all disappointed.
If you used a single ground "U-groove" from the dealership or any other copper plug, the spark plug life will be 30,000 miles.
A single ground platinum plug will last you 60,000 miles
If you spent the extra money on the iridium plugs, you may gain a little power, plus 100,000 spark plug life.
the previous A-series are timing belts
Fred Anderson Toyota got the part in 2 days and installed it in 30 minutes.
Great car. Marvelous shifter & clutch.
Much better interior than my other car, a Saturn SL1 (2000).
Does anyone have insight to a good service manual for the more simple Corolla tasks?
The Haynes book seems to cover a lot of model years ('92-00). This concerns me that it may not be specific enough for '99.
Also, outside of oil change receipts, I'm not certain of the previous maintenance. Is there any maintenance in addition to that specified by owners manual (e.g. air filter, plugs). I should do?
Thanks.
I live in Detroit. I am I'm interested in 2002 Honda Civic HX and 2003 Toyoda Corolla CE. Which one will be fit for the snow weather in Detroit? I usually use my car to commute to work and occasionally drive 4 hours to Chicago on holiday. Could anybody recommend me which one I should buy?
BTW, some people told me that it is a better deal to buying a one or two years used car still within warranty than buying a new car? Could anyone also tell me your opinion on it?
Help!
I hear valve lash for a while and then goes away
about few miles or so.
It has 46,500 miles. Prior to 40,000 miles
the valve lash was not there?
How to fix the problem? Help
The second step, if you are going to keep this car to the end of its service life, is to consider a switch to synthetic oil. We have been using Castrol Syntec 5-50 in all of our cars for the past ten years [it is also OEM for BMWs these days], or MobilOne, or whatever. The cost for this car adds less than $10-15 per oil change, depending on what you were paying for conventional oil, and is real insurance for any car you plan to keep a long time.
Has anyone else experienced a similar problem with their 1998-2002 Corollas and –if so- was there a fix to it. I fear that, if there indeed is a problem with my A/C which my dealer can’t diagnose, it’s getting worse since the noise in question is getting louder the more I use the A/C.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Noises are almost impossible to discuss online, since in fact the AC DOES make a faint "whooshing" sound when the compressor kicks in, on virtually every car I've ever owned. Obviously, the question is, how loud is it and if it is getting worse, then I would suggest taking it to another dealer, and pointing them in the direction of the compressor pulley. Also check the belt for edge wear, which is a sign that the path may be slightly off.
Anyone else experience anything like this?
1) Gas pedal is sticky when accelerating from 0 mph.
2) One of the rotors might be slightly bent because their is a very slight pulsing when braking. Brakes feel strong though.
How much below Kelly blue book do you think I should go? Are ether of these common problems for the 1994?
Also, the little compartment right under the shifter (cheap plastic bin with a flimsy latch) keeps popping open. It's annoying, to be sure, since it pops open with the slightest bump in the road. Anyone else have this problem?
There seems to be a lot of cheap plastic in the interior IMO, but given the amount of car I'm getting for the money, it's a reasonable trade-off.
The other times, they have just noted and cleared the code.
They (dealership), in my opinion are in the dark!
I have been told by collegues that maybe the gas cap should be replaced, or the O2 sensor.
The car has 60,000 miles on it, and is mostly highway driven.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Noel
tagger18
I would like to know if those people who have rattle problems have an automatic or standard shift. The man questioned that. I have a standard (manual) shift.
I also wonder if the cars were made at the same place. I don't know where mine was made,
but I know it wasn't Japan. I am going to find out.
Would appreciate any responses.
Anyone have any advice? Manual says that if the light comes on and then off there are no problems.
Tagger18
I drove in this morning and took the same turn. This time I took it faster to try to make the fluid move to the left. No light. No problem.
Thanks for the two replies above!!!
CD player,
Thanks GM, it was defective from the factory and has been replaced, no problems since.