Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Corvettes and all things about them

13334363839

Comments

  • whitey11whitey11 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1984 Corvette Greenwood, and I have never found another car that looks like it. What do I have ? It was manufactured in Jan 1984.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's a website:

    http://www.greenwoodcorvettes.com/AboutUs.html

    You may have an original car but you may have the new body kits that were meant to pay tribute to the original C4 street cars. So you have to do your research. Contact these people, they'll know right away what you do or do not have.
  • whitey11whitey11 Member Posts: 7
    Thank You, I appreciate the info. I have looked already at this site, & they don't answer questions. None of the greenwood accents look like mine.Mine are all the way around the car, front ,back, sides . No way does it match anyone's. but I do thank You.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I guess you'll have to explore whether yours is all stock underneath or has those special suspension and braking features of the original Greenwood street C4s. If the car is basically stock, then it's just a modern add-on body kit which is not all that desirable actually. But an original Greenwood car might be.
  • whitey11whitey11 Member Posts: 7
    It says Greenwood all over it. I am new to this site, and as u probably guessed, I am female, seeking help with it.Is there a way to post a photo of it here and get some help on what I have ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not sure that would help. So you have no history on the car from previous owner?
  • whitey11whitey11 Member Posts: 7
    I have nothing. Ownership since 2001, bought it from a man who had a z28 for sale but was driving this, we said we were interested in the corvette, he needed money and sold the vet.He moved away immediately after. I know it was originally from far south Texas.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You probably need some corvette guru to give it a good look-over to see if it's an old Greenwood or a new one.
  • whitey11whitey11 Member Posts: 7
    I truly thank you for the advise. It's at the shop now to winterize it and the guy says he has seen many a corvette, but never 1 like this. He even had people stop by yesterday to take a look at it. It is pretty. Thank you for the help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    well sure if it has the modern body panels on it, it will look quite unusual. The Greenwood kits aren't sold in large numbers. But it's the "guts" you need to look at to see if it's Real or if its Memorex.
  • whitey11whitey11 Member Posts: 7
    Please explain guts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The suspension, brakes, engine, exhaust, etc that might suggest a car originally modified by Greenwood for racing as opposed to a stock C4 that just has a body kit bolted to it.
  • whitey11whitey11 Member Posts: 7
    should it be an original Greenwood, would it be worth more?
    It looks and sounds great. My mechanic is checking the things you mentioned today for me. Thank You
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to say what the market is. This would require some research.
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,464
    I recently had the 'Service Steering Lock' message come up on my 2003 with 6-speed manual. When I took it in to the dealer (probably a mistake) they replaced the 'Theft Deterrent Steering Column Lock', including the lock assembly and handed me a bill for about $625. My question is, should I
    1. Suck it up - after all I get to drive a Corvette
    2. Find a new place to have my Corvette serviced
    3. Get a lawyer.

    Any insight or tales of experience that people might have would be welcome.

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it were a Ferrari it would have been $6000. And you can go to a Chevy dealer to have it fixed. While I am truly sorry you're out $600 bucks, I really don't see your complaint here. You are after all, driving a high performance automobile requiring special factory training for the technicians.

    Yep, you have to suck it up. I don't think bringing your Corvette to a Conoco station or Bill's Chevy Repair is a good idea; however, if you found an independent Corvette specialist, you could perhaps save 20% off dealer costs.

    But you know, the dealer has the experience, the parts right there, so that's worth something.

    If you get a lawyer, then it will end up costing you as much as a Ferrari repair :P

    I checked on the cost of the lock and it's about $310 bucks. So that, plus diagnosis time plus labor to R&R, plus tax--it all sounds reasonable to me.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Actually you don't have to suck it up. The column lock is a recall item and
    should be covered even if the car is out of warranty. I have an '02, my records
    show that I had the column lock fixed some time in '05, however, it locked
    again in '08 and the dealer, not the one who did the original work, noted that
    I already had the work performed. I said, good, but it's locked. They went
    further and found that the lock plate was still intact, supposed to be removed by
    prior work. So they removed plate and reflashed system. I did end up paying
    for one new part in the steering column.
    But that isn't the end of the story. About 6 months later, I get service CL msg
    and car dies if you try to pull away. The steering works just fine since the plate
    is removed but can't drive the car. Finally found the about $50 column lock
    bypass aftermarket electronic module and had it installed by my local guy, not
    the dealer. BTW also a 6 sp manual.
    Randy
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Good catch starrow but unfortunately that special extension has expired as of Feb. 2008, so I didn't mention it.

    HOWEVER, now that you brought it up, I'll post it anyway and maybe he can lever the dealer or Chevy if he wants to spend the time to do so.

    Bulletin No.: 05081

    Date: February 08, 2006

    SPECIAL POLICY
    Subject:
    05081 - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - ELECTRONIC COLUMN LOCK SYSTEM

    Models:
    1997-2004 CHEVROLET CORVETTE EQUIPPED WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION (MM6/M12)
    1997-2000 CHEVROLET CORVETTE EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - EXPORT VEHICLES ONLY
    2001-2004 CHEVROLET CORVETTE EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - EUROPEAN EXPORT VEHICLES ONLY

    BEFORE PERFORMING THIS REPAIR, VERIFY THAT RECALL 04006 HAS BEEN PERFORMED ON THE VEHICLE (LABOR CODES V1144, V1145, V1153). IF THE REPAIR WAS NOT PERFORMED, PERFORM THE REPAIR IN RECALL BULLETIN 04006C, AND SUBMIT THE CLAIM USING THE APPROPRIATE RECALL LABOR CODE.

    Condition

    Some customers of 1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvettes equipped with a manual transmission (MM6/M12); 1997-2000 Chevrolet Export Corvettes equipped with an automatic transmission; and 2001-2004 Chevrolet European Export Corvettes equipped with an automatic transmission may have a condition where the column lock may fail to unlock the steering column when the vehicle is started.

    Special Policy Adjustment

    This special policy covers the condition described above until February 29, 2008, regardless of ownership. The repairs will be made at no charge to the customer.

    For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after February 8, 2006, are covered by this special policy and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to February 8, 2006, must be submiffed to the Service Contract provider.
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,464
    I thank you, Shifty and Starrow. I am not seriously upset about the $600 (the reference to the lawyer was largely a joke), but given that there had been a recall on this item (the dealer said the recalled part wasn't the cause), and the Corvette is not an exotic, I wanted feedback. I will proceed to suck until it is all up, and go on enjoying my ride.

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm mad for days when I get a big car bill, even if it's just for service! LOL! AND the mechanic is my good friend.

    This kind of thing is genetic, WE CAN'T HELP IT. :cry:
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    " ... (the dealer said the recalled part wasn't the cause), ... "

    Gotta love dealers. Or at least service writers that don't have a clue.
    The problem is caused by the lock plate, the servo motor and the
    software, all interacting. The after market bypass module ignores
    the plate, tricks the servo and software to think all is well no matter
    what is happening as long as the plate is removed. Too bad it makes
    car easier to drive off for someone else, I try to keep it garaged.
    Guess I've spent enough with this dealer that they decided to cover
    part of the cost for goodwill. I too will continue to enjoy the ride.
    Randy
  • jrzdvljrzdvl Member Posts: 5
    Don't want to change the subject here, but just a question. All the forums on this site are about newer Corvettes, which is fine if you have one, but are there any forums for older cars, like the C4 in particular?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You are welcome to start a C4 topic in our Classics Board if you like:

    CLASSICS FORUM
  • v1995ttev1995tte Member Posts: 4
    Hi: Interested in finding out if any of you folks have used Liquid Glass or a Dry wash system on a Vette and what you thought??? Have acid rain spots and hear Clay magic is very good...Thanks
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Zaino is good. I've used it for about 5 years and it was
    used a couple times I had the car detailed by a local
    guy and it looks great, even after hard miles on track
    and lots of dings up front and under the doors. The
    dry spray can be used on a car that has been 'dusted'
    is really quick and comes up looking just washed
    after a couple minutes. I get mine from a local guy
    who distributes and I meet him every year or so to
    stock up.
    randy
  • jrzdvljrzdvl Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a used vette once owned by a smoker and it smells approximaetely like a mens' room. I guess the smoke is in the headliner, the carpets, everywhere. Anyone have any special suggestions on getting rid of this, or is it just a matter of cleaning everything in sight. Hate to mess up the headliner although it might have to be replaced anyway.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it was a heavy smoker you'll never get it out, as it is in the padding etc in the upholstery. You could try a professional detailer/steaming/shampoo. It's worth a shot but don't get your hopes up.

    Otherwise, yes, you'll have to rip out the carpets, seats and headliner and replace all of that The hard plastic stuff is okay.
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,464
    The car starts and runs perfectly; purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion. However, when I shut it down, I get this noise from under the hood. It is fairly loud and sounds like perhaps a fan hitting a shroud or some such, but only lasts a few seconds. Any educated guesses or other people with the same experience out there?

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm....any chance that this is post-ignition--a kind of "running-on" of the engine? Do you feel a shudder in the car or just here a noise with no vibration whatsoever?
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    You might want to try a fire restoration company, contractors who do home rebuilding after a fire. Either they or a sub contractor have some pretty effective machines for smoke odor removal.
    Certainly worth an inquiry before tearing the insides up.
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,464
    No, it's not run-on. The engine has stopped. There is no vibration, just the sound. It could be a solenoid pulsing for some reason I guess, but it is loud. One possibly useful piece of information is that I pulled into the garage yesterday and didn't shut the engine off immediately and I think it did it with the engine idling. I couldn't tell for sure, however. If it continues and I take it in, I will post the result.

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Can't think of what it might be---I bet someone who knows these cars will say "OH THAT". The only other thing I can think of is some vacuum operated actuator that is stripping its gear teeth or somehow failing to catch--my logic is that engine vacuum drops to zero when the engine is shut off.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    Not so sure I got a good description of this "noise".
    It was not described as "grinding" or some such other annoying sound and lasted a short time.
    Not wanting to be a minimalist here but could it be a "ticking/clicking" like sound? If so, it's merely heat dissipation from the engine bay...manifolds/heat shields etc.
    This may well be a WAY to simplified answer but I have had that sound on my last 3 Vettes when shutting them down.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    Talked to a friend this weekend who happens to own a body shop.
    He had a car towed into his shop for repairs. There had apparently been a long delay between the accident and the decision to repair rather than declare the car a total loss. It sat in a tow yard for nearly a month. Summer sun and all.
    Unfortunately the owner had purchased a 15# turkey which was in the trunk....along with milk. Worst smell he has even encountered per the owner.
    They repaired the car but the odor persisted. They resorted to even spraying paint thinner into the liner of the trunk and then got some FEBREEZE odor removal.
    The odor was not totally removed but the FEBREEZE did wonders per the shop owner.
    Not saying this is the total solution but suspect smoke odor is a ton less toxic than a rotting carcass and may be worth a shot....dare I say a potential $5 solution?
    Let us know your results whatever you do.
  • v1995ttev1995tte Member Posts: 4
    Have had my 95 Vette for 2 years. I have put new back tires on, new battery, new antenna motor,new emblems, and a few other things. Looking to replace mostly as many things as I can on the car as I don't know what has been fixed in the past...Any past experiences on how much to replace shocks, PCV valve, Fuel filter. I have Bilstien HD's that I have purchased, but they are saying around 4 bills to put on??? Also a tune up...5 hours labor sound right??? Thanks
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,464
    No, it's not grinding, or metallic at all. I described it as a 'raspberry' (you know, tongue between your lips and blow out BRAAAP). It is loud but only lasts a few seconds at shutdown. It doesn't always happen either. I am now entertaining the idea that it is actually an electrical discharge that causes interference on the radio, and that is what I am hearing. When it happens again I will turn off the radio quickly and see if that does it. At least will tell me whether I am dealing with a mechanical or an electrical phenomenon.

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • CHughesiiiCHughesiii Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2008 coupe, back in June 08, and I've been having problems with transmission shifting, weatherstrips falling off, seat belt buckle indicator on when no one is in the seat, plastic brackets braking off of the clear roof each time I remove it,and blotchy marks in my paint. Anyone have the same issues? if so, what did you do. I am so tired of talking till I'm blue in the face with the car dealer.
  • clongoclongo Member Posts: 1
    Hi,I have headers on my vette I put a new set of wires on and put the original aluminum heat sheilds on the new wires.I seen on the web wire&boot protectors they were called koolsox or something like that,they said they protect up to 1200 degrees should i use both the sheilds and the protectors since i'm running headers? :confuse:
  • v1995ttev1995tte Member Posts: 4
    Have a sticking accelerator pedal., could you please let me know where it comes out inside the engine compartment, and is it accessible to hit with something like WD40 to stop the sticking... Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You need a "sensor-safe" product! So be sure that's on the can before you go squirting anything in there.

    Sometimes this is carbon/dirt in the throttle plate and this can be stubborn.

    On the OUTSIDE of the air horn/intake, then I guess a lubricant would be okay, as long as it doesn't touch a sensor.
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    Get your hands on some RejeX. Good protection and leaves a shine you won't believe.
  • mtj67mtj67 Member Posts: 15
    I tend to agree with gbjerke, it's probably just heat dissipation. Does the noise start out rapid then sort of fade off slowly? Kinda like: tick-tick-tick-tick...tick......tick..........tick, etc. lol. My '91 does this, and in fact, I've had several cars do this, and have heard countless other cars do this. In any event, here's a little "thing" you can try: Take your vette for a short trip, before the engine can reach operating temperature. Go to the store or something, and when you shut the engine off, listen to see if it "ticks", making sure that the engine isn't too hot yet. Likewise, next time you go for a long drive and the engine is hot, again take notice. In all likelihood, this is what it is. Just keep an eye (and ear) out to see if it gets worse in any way. We all know these buggers run hot, so sometimes this ticking can be rather loud, lol. :P
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,464
    No it's not a ticking. It sounds like perhaps a fan hitting its shroud; not metallic, but like something made of stiff plastic was being hit by a rapidly rotating object. It happens for maybe 5 seconds just after (sometimes just before) I stop the engine, most obviously in my garage, and then ends suddenly (like the fan has gone off). But it only happens in that circumstance. I think I am going to have to raise the hood and see if I can get it to do it while I'm watching.

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • nautinauti Member Posts: 5
    Heat dissipation. Thats the nicest way to put it! Lol. My '95 did it until i replaced the waterpump. The "tick-tick-tick-tick...tick......tick..........tick,etc." was coolant "dissipating" from my weep hole onto the engine. Of course the hotter the engine, the more the "tick-tick"...and what a mess it made. The engine was hot enough to cook the coolant immediately, keeping it from ever making it to the ground below. I used about 5 cans of Berryman's and around 3 hours of detailing just to get the surface area for the new pump clean. As cooked on as it was; oven-cleaner might've been a better choice. Ha!
  • mattkfmattkf Member Posts: 2
    Edmunds.com reported that it was going to be on Nissan, but today's video announcement says otherwise:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFqq4jW4JXU
  • gearup72gearup72 Member Posts: 13
    After buying a new corvette in 2005 that was a lemon (auto tranny), I decided to give GM another chance. I bought a used 2008, Auto tranny, F55 magnetic selective ride, navi, in magnetic red/black interior. I absolutely love this car. I live in Richmond, VA and the road surface is very uneven with lots of potholes. The Tour setting of the F55 handles the bumps really well. When I want more performance, the Sport setting really makes a difference. My 05 had Z51 but for me the F55 is awesome. I would encourage anyone to test drive this option. I have more confidence driving this car fast on imperfect roads than the Z51. I think the fact that the ZR1 has a version of this suspension is important. I am also happy with the auto transmission. The paddle shifters work better than expected and are necessary to keep the RPM's higher for performance driving. I am 37 and use this car as a daily driver. On the negative side - my brakes squeal at times, the navigation system is not that intuitive, and sometimes the tranny has a little delay downshifting from 3 to 2 going around corners. All in all, I love this car. I average about 22 MPG. I can fit tons of stuff in the back. Top off is great. Most importantly, I love the F55 magnetic selective suspension. Unless you live where the roads are perfect like FL, I would get this. Most people can't use the Z51 to its limits. I am tall and love the automatic transmission. Is this a perfect car? No, it takes some time to work out the bugs just like a new Gulfstream IV that I fly. Have a little patience with the small stuff. Great deals on used one. I saved 20k on mine, and the previous owner worked out all of the small bugs.....Take care...
  • flozickflozick Member Posts: 4
    I'm trying to find a reasonable price to list my 85 vette in order to sell it. Any ideas?
    Also, is this a bad time for me to sell it since noone has any money right now?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Depends on condition. If it's a clean driver, condition #3 (minor blemishes here and there) with unrestored undercarriage and not a show quality kind of engine bay, and over 100K miles figure something like $8500 list price and take less.

    If it's a show quality, low mileage car (under 50,000) you might push $13,5K.

    If it's a bit shabby, deduct accordingly, all the way down to $3500 or so.

    Yes it's a bad time to sell, and also an 85 Corvette is not all that in demand. People like the later C4s. Of course if you had upgrades on the car, this would help the situation.
  • flozickflozick Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. My 85 vette's got 47,000 miles and is in good condition. I've got it priced at $ 9,750 but it's not selling. I thought somebody might offer $9,500 but no luck yet. I have it listed on AutoTrader.com so I don't mind waiting.
    Do you think $9750 is a good asking price?
Sign In or Register to comment.