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Mercedes 300D Suggestions

19798100102103116

Comments

  • fintailfintail Posts: 32,907
    The key is maintenance. EVERYTHING has to be up to date, or you will pay for deferred requirements. The cars also need regular fluid changes, and need the same maintenance to retain cosmetic appearance as any other car. It seems many people stretch themselves to buy these things as a second or third owner, so the cars miss out on what they need both inside and outside. You don't want one after that unless you have it inspected and budget for the needs. For any car, get it checked out, and find a good indy mechanic...from my experience, MB dealers don't like dealing with you unless you drive a new S-class.

    For cars to avoid if you want less hassle, I would keep away from W140 cars, earlier W210 cars especially from the east coast, earlier W203 cars, most W220 cars, along with some SLKs and MLs. Those years aren't set in stone, but they kind of go along with the passing of the W124, to the birth of the current models. If I was to get a W211 E-class like you mentioned, I would get a facelift model, or 2005+ AMG. Lots of them were dumped into leases, so they depreciate swiftly.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,118
    I wouldn't be interested in any W140 or other S-Class, or ML, but would mainly consider a E or C-Class, in that order. The year would depend on whether it was a replacement for my wife's TL or my E30. For example, a W211 would serve as a replacement for the TL. What year was the W211 facelifted?

    I'd also have some interest in an SLK, as a replacement for my 300ZX.

    I maintain my cars very well, and we average ~19,000 per year for the three of them combined, so I don't need to make any changes. Still, you never know, especially with older cars, when you might have to replace one quickly. For example, a relatively minor accident could total an older car. You usually have advance notice regarding the failure of a major component (engine or transmission), but not always. Also, sometimes several small things fail or don't work right, and together they might equal the cost of repairing a major component, so you decide that its time to trade that car. This is a wordy way of saying that it's good to be prepared. That means having an idea of which car(s) would be suitable replacements for the one(s) you currently drive.
  • fintailfintail Posts: 32,907
    The W211 was facelifted for 07, and the engines were bumped up in size and power, from E320 to E350 and E500 to E550. The CLS is also based on this car, if you want something with less visibility but more visual impact. The W211 is going to be replaced in model year 2010 or 2011.

    I know a couple people with later (04-05) W203 C230 kompressor cars, and they haven't had any real problems, those cars seem to be well sorted. But the earlier ones can be glitchy. I think the current (05+) SLK has been decent too...but if you are tall, you won't like it...I didn't like the one I sat in anyway.

    I don't know if any of these cars will have Japanese reliability when it comes to electronics, and servicing has to be more as well. I think that shocks some people.
  • I think we are drifting off topic here. Let's try to stick with the 300D. Thanks!

    Shifty the Host
  • Hi, I have a 1979 300sd. I posted some time ago about a vacuum problem and am happy to say it is solved. I have recently developed another problem and hope someone can help. My tach has started working intermittedly some days it will work all day fine and others not at all. I am not so concerned about that but what does concern me is that when it is working the car is not as quick on take off and takes forever to get from 45 to 55 and at 55 that seems to be as fast as it will go. However when the tach is not working the car accelerates alot faster and gets to 55 and beyond great. If I am driving with the tach working and it stops working the car accelerates then if it starts back working it is like the car pulls back. My question is is there some kind of govenor or something that would cause this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Hi does anyone have any suggestions about my problem. Its almost as if the turbo does not work when the tach is working. The only thing I can trace it to is a little thing on the firewall that has a line running from the passenger side of the engine and then has one (a line) running out the other side of it (the thing on the firewall) to the top of the injector pump. I think it has to do with boost pressure but really don't know. It also has something electrical plugged to it that seems to run into the firewall. Could this be the culprit????
  • Went a number of weeks without adding any Redline to my fuel (not carried by local stores anymore). Noticed a pinging coming from the engine on startup...went away after engine was warmed up. Mechanic said add a double dose of Redline (I ordered several gallons online)...engine is now sounding normal. Also noticed that my mpg improved significantly with the double dosing. Question: would double dosing hurt my engine over time (or just my wallet)?
  • Maybe what you heard is called "nailing" in the diesel world and yeah, dirty injectors can do that. Was the Redline an injector cleaner or a Cetane booster?
  • The additive was Redline Diesel Fuel Catalyst....which I believe is both a cetane booster and cleaner. Is that what I should be using regularly?....and would the double dosing hurt my engine over time?
  • Don't think so. That's good stuff! You might try BGK-44 as an injector cleaner.
  • Great! Thanks for your help and support in this forum!
  • ok- here's a strange one. My 300D was (and is) running perfectly. I tried to make it more perfect- here's what I did:
    I was thinking of getting the EGR removal kit, but noticed that my EGR was already disabled (good!). The vacuum line going into the EGR was removed and the EGR opening was closed up by a screw. However, the end of the vacuum line (that originally went into the EGR) was open, so I thought it would be better to plug that up too, so I put in a screw to close it. I also put a couple of golf T's in the black control box since I noticed there were a couple of open ports.
    I take it for a drive, and everything is A-ok (I thought shifting was better- but maybe just an illusion).
    Anyway- I come back, turn off the key and voila! engine does not shut off. Had to shut it off manually. I must have affected something; so of course I remove the screw and the 2 golf T's that I had put in, and the engine still refuses to shut off.
    What could have happened? any ideas? All I did was try to plug up some open vac. lines!! Even after restoring them to the previous status, why does the engine still not shut off?
  • That means a vacuum leak somewhere. I bet by increasing the vacuum in the system by plugging a small line you opened up a bigger leak somewhere else. Shifting is also vacuum controlled. Maybe you pulled or yanked something?

    There are these tiny tiny vacuum lines over the valve cover, on the driver's side. If you are working on the engine, these always seem to come loose from their fragile plastic connectors.

    You know where the manual shut off is for the engine, right?
  • I'll check the vacuum lines on the valve cover- but I was quite careful not to disturb anything else. Shifting is still fine... and yes, I know where the manual shut off is; that's what I used to shut off the engine. Thanks-
    What do you think about removing the EGR valve and blocking off the exhaust and intake using one of those kits?
    Along those lines, any comment on removing the air filter box and replacing it with the direct air intake kit?
  • Problem solved- there was a vacuum line going to the engine that had gotten disconnected from the "Y" branch near the brake booster- connected it back up, and engine turns off normally. I am surprised- the small plastic connector looks very fragile, and barely holds up in the port; for good measure I tied the line with a piece of string to give it support so it doesn't come loose again.
    I also now plugged up the open EGR line with a screw; and shifting- though very good before- is even better now; real smooth and not hard. I can barely feel the shift into 3 and 4.
    Anybody have comments on replacing the standard air box with the "high performance" direct air kit with the K&N filter?
  • Yep those are the lines I was thinking of.

    No, I think K&N is a complete waste of money on a diesel--there is no air throttle regulation on a diesel--all you are doing is adding fuel.

    And yes, I tried it on mine and it makes no difference whatsoever.
  • OK- thanks.
    I have another question though: Even though the vacuum line to the EGR valve is no longer connected, is the exhaust still going into the engine intake thru' the EGR? My thinking here is if any soot/ crud is going into the intake, will it be helpful to remove the EGR and block off both ends- the exhaust as well as the intake where the EGR connected, in order to prevent carbon deposits from going back in? There's a kit on ebay for $30 that does this, and seems simple enough.
  • If the vacuum is disconnected, the EGR valve won't open. Unless of course it is stuck open right now. Usually you get EGR action on that car off idle and up to, but not at full throttle. At idle and full throttle, no EGR.

    If it's running okay, I wouldn't mess with it. Your car is emissions-exempt anyway.
  • Can somebody tell me how to test if the glow plug relay is functioning ok on a '82 300D? The car wouldn't start; checked the battery- put in a new battery. After 2-3 days, won't start again. I suspect one of the things may be the relay not shutting off, and power being drained from the battery even while driving. So I would like to check the relay. Any other ideas?
    I tried to get to the voltage regulator behind the alternator; but just couldn't get to 1 screw to remove it- gave up.
  • Hi I have a 1979 300sd and my heater does'nt work, it used to but for some reason now it will not. The blower works fine and the air changes direction when different settings are pushed, but it only blows out cold air, even on defrost. It is not a/c cold, just cold air. I was wondering if the engine thermostat could be the problem?
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