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I've had Uniroyal installed before with 75k miles guarantee 205 70R/15, but the steering wheel shakes when driving, only 45k in the tires. I took it to the mechanic and he did balancing and rotation, but the problem persists.
He said I need to change the tires. I don't think he is trying to sell me new tires or anything as he suggested going to any tire place for replacement as he doesn't do that.
Thanks for your input.
Hope this makes sense.
Same replacement filter, actually - Fram fresh breeze.
What I noticed it that the "dirty" side was facing up on the OE filter. So I looked at the flow direction of the new filter, and installed it in that direction.
One thing I did not like - the OE filter has many, many more pleats. So the surface area is greater. The Fram filter may not flow as well. I'll check it in 10,000 miles or so to see if it clogs up sooner, but that was a bummer.
Next time I think I'll buy an OE filter. The Fram wasn't cheap, either, IIRC $17 or so at WalMart.
What did you pay for yours?
Not CAF related, but when you replace your tires what brand will you be looking at? Mine have 41K and still have some tread left, but wife says they slip on takeoff sometimes in wet weather. Was looking at the Michelin Harmony or Yokohama brand.
To be honest I doubt it matters, the direction of the air flow, but I did install as per the arrows.
Haven't shopped at all for tires yet. 30k miles and the Dunlops are still going strong. Not bad for an OE tire.
By the way, is your van an LE and was your OE filter pleated on just one side?
I have seen the OE filter online both ways, pleated only on one side and pleasted on both sides. I assume the filter casing with accept both.
My local dealers wanted 24.00 for one filter.
Yes, 2007 LE, and exposed pleated on both sides of the OE and the Fram filter.
Next time I'll buy OE even if it costs more.
Have a great weekend!
I didn't even see the video - I just followed the instructions in the owner's manual.
Very easy job, took me just 2 minutes, maybe.
PS Yes it sort of just hangs there.
I usually do my own oil, but this was in the middle of the huge blizzard we had.
Any how, I tried a wrench, failed, tried a metal 65/67 filter wrench on a ratchet, failed, then tried another plastic 65/67 filter wrench from NAPA, failed yet again.
This thing seems bonded on.
Any advice?
Will a 64mm filter wrench do it?
Should I try a strap wrench or a clasp-style?
Or take it back and demand they torque it to spec?
The filter wrench on a ratchet is no good... by design, there's only so much torque you can put on there... makes ya wish they had used one of those to tighten...
A strap wrench is probably your best bet, but dolce, dolce. If you break the filter w/out getting it off, it's tow-truck time.
If you feel strong in the faith, and have room to maneuver, a really large screwdriver from Sears, rammed through the center off the filter, makes an excellent and proven wrench. However, once you start, there's no going back.
First, try the strap wrench, but don't twist to more than a little... you still need flow to drive it to a "real" shop.
This would bother me not a little. How hard is it to do this right? Like you, I change my own oil, and I tighten the filter by hand... and 9 times out of 10, remove it by hand as well.
Good luck,
-Mathias
Thanks
I may get a strap wrench for next time, though.
I ended up taking it back yesterday, though I spoke to the Manager politely but firmly about following OE torque specs.
They got it off, saying it wasn't difficult (doubt that). I supplied the filter and they changed it, and then topped off the oil since some was lost.
So at least they corrected their mistake for free.
I just hope I can get it off next time. Thing is - they can tighten using the 3/8" drive at the bottom of a removable cap, but not loosen since the cap itself comes off.
Lesson learned - strap wrench next time and if you want to do it right, do it yourself!
Loosen your aircleaner cover by popping out the clips on the fender side. Wiggle it out of the holds on the engine side. Take the 4 inch airduct off the end by loosening the screw clamp.
Look down the duct with a flash light. You will see that the duct splits as it enters two throttle control units. The rear-most throttle control has a square hole in the bottom of it which you can see if you hold the duct straight and the light just right. Take a piece of plastic pipe or tubing with about a 3/8-1/2" inside diameter and stick it down to this square hole. Blow Gumout carburetor cleaner or a similar product through the tubing or pipe for about 3 seconds. Let it dry for about 30 minutes and repeat. Let it dry an hour and then reattach the airduct and the air cleaner cover. Start the car. It may take a few cranks to get any excess cleaner out of the system. Unless you have waited too long befor using this technique and thus damaged the IAC valve, this should solve the problem.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Can anyone recommend and good online parts houses that I can source one from?
Additionally, what is the process to replace it altogether? How many hours am I looking at?
http://www.fixrambler.com/art135.html
Get an OEM filter. I bought a cheap FRAM replacement, and it had a lot fewer pleats. I won't make that mistake again.
I needs some help here for my friends 2004 Siena LE with 8 seats.
This car is daily driven, without disconnecting battery or jump-start lately.
Its SMOG inspection fails because of MIL/ODB II not ready.
When I use a scanner, I find that there have two monitors not ready or
incomplete:
1): O2 sensor 2): EVAP.
Also,
1): There has no error code, (completed or pending).
2): MIL (Check Engine Light) is NOT on.
3): Five monitors (misfire, fuel, etc ) are completed.
Driving looks noraml in any condition.
Any comments? Thanks.
Go to siennachat.org and ask around. With luck, someone has had this and can point you in the right direction.
OBD-II is fantastic when it works, and it has proven very reliable, but when the system fails, you gots trouble.
The googles and enthusiast's web sites are your friend.
Good luck,
-Mathias
But if it's halfway accessible, just get a strap wrench at the auto parts store... even my grocery store carries them.
I don't k now why the factory puts them on as tightly as they do. I spin them on and take them off by hand on both our cars.
Cheers -Mathias
- Purge Valve
- Canister
- Canister Shutoff Valve
Reading thru the information on the web, I am confused as to which valves are part of the canister and which are seperate from the canister. In other words, do I need to replace all valves seperately or are some of the values included as part of a new canister assembly. Thanks for your assistance.
Since I never went to the dealer for anything after the purchase, I didn't even try to get a warranty claim honored. I think it was a bad batch of control arms in 2003 -- consumer report's ratings show a black spot for that category for that year only. It would not be unthinkable that the part hasn't really changed for the redesign and the 'badness' carried into the next model year.
The replacement part has been fine; i kept the originals to see if they can be rebuilt... they can... but you need to buy the part for the Avalon... I read that year's ago, can't give you a source.
As far as the spring breaking: That should never happen, but I don't see how they could have caused it during the repair. Either way, you couldn't prove it.
With a car that old -- any car, really -- you need to find a good independent mechanic to handle stuff for you. Develop a good relationship and some trust, and it'll work out for both of you.
Cheers -Mathias
We had the same problem with our 2001 Sienna and tried your fix. It works! A couple of hours after, it idled about 300 rpm. it took a day or so for the idle to stay up around 1100 rpm.
A thousand thanks for posting this. We like our dealer & their service guys, but this was great.
This year had the same problem with the top motor mount; the rubber again essentially is failing.
What I found was that a good, trusted auto body repair shop was able to do the repair at about 40% the cost of the dealer for the control arms.
Good luck with your fix, hopefully it wont be too painful
Dealer kept it for a few days to duplicate and wound up replacing the fuel pump. $900 as it was in the fuel tank. They did not have one in stock as they say they never break - just my luck.
I suppose I can't complain too much about the repair - other than the inconvenience as it happened while on vacation so we never made our destination.
In nearly 8 years and 135k miles this is the second repair. First was a new actuator for the power door that I installed myself. So total repairs over 8 years is just over $1,000. I would rather have no repairs, but I suppose things could be much worse if a tranny went bad or head gasket blew.
Of course my Accord has 165k miles and has a total of $105 in repairs (O2 Sensor), so my expectations are pretty high.
So if anyone has a sienna of that year and knows anything about the fuses HELP.
Lastly my hoses appear cracked in spots-I'm guessing that means I should replace them but am hoping someone who knows better than I will tell me its normal for hoses to look like that