I think they just check e-mail last. Clearly, I was their lowest priority. I wouldn't avoid them necessarily, but I would call in future orders. It's a shame because I much prefer to use e-mail.
My friend has the same car as me (other than color [colour]), 2000 O.B. auto, 30,000 miles which was manufactured in Sept. 99. The vehicle will, without warning, start to run very rough and then will often stall. Either the check engine light or the transmission light will come on and stay on until he restarts the vehicle. This will happen at different speeds and operating temperatures, usually about two or three times a week. The dealer has been great, switching out several parts but unable to solve the problem. They always get the same error code on the computer and have sent the info. to Subaru Canada in hopes of finding a solution. If anyone has experienced this situation, I would appreciate hearing about it.
Thought I once saw a note on an air whistle, which seems to be coming from the driver side mirror area.
However my sound seems to disappear when I slightly move the window down and then back up. Is this a seal problem or is there something I can add to either the seal or driver side mirror area.
Q to the crew: the backlight for my heater buttons has apparently expired prematurely... easy DIY fix? I imagine the fix is a piece of cake, but it looks like access could be a real bugger. Hints, opinions, even "don't try this at home" are welcome. Thanks, and
It's the HVAC panel, Juice.. the indicator lights still work, but the backlight that illuminates the buttons themselves is leaving me in the dark. All other dash lights still work, and I'm contemplating an eventual stereo swap... I may just wait & do 'em both at the same time, but inquiring minds stillw ant to know. Thanks!
Its generally not the bulbs. Its the connectors. They are cold-soldered in place and over time and temp ranges the cold-solder breaks. I think all '96->'99 legacy/OBs have these problems. My '97 Rodeo also had the problem and it was made @ SIA as well.
Costs to get at the bulbs can be expensive. Dashboard gear selector illuminator for "Drive" needed to be replaced on our Camry. Part $ 25 Labor $105 Vince
Hmm, on a '97 Outback. Does anyone have photos/instructions for pulling the center section of the dash out? Bit had photos, but for a 2000 and later model.
I would expect bulbs to last longer than that. My Escort lasted 7 years and lost only both headlights and the radio backlight.
Yeah, access is a real pain, but if you want to get to the stereo too, here's the chance.
I get this during high cross winds at highway speeds. Opening the windows has no effect. It sounds like it's coming from the A-pillar. Fortunately, high cross winds are rare where I live. Jim
I also get the air whistle noise when there are lots of crosswinds too.
I read about some person who did a fix by putting some heavy gauge wire inside the window seal (inside the fold) so that it snugs up tighter when it makes contact with the glass.
I have some noise coming from the B pillar area down low on the drivers window. I know if I play with the seal a little I can stop it. Not sure if I trust a dealer to look at it.
Having several intermittant problems with our new, used, 98 Outback. One is Tom's stalling problem. Been to the dealer twice with no luck. A local shop guesses it needs a new computer.
The problem I need help with, however, is that, on a couple of occasions, the car refuses to start. Turning the key produces a clicking sound. After letting it click for a long time I thought I smelled a hot wire smell. The car is a manual, so I've been able to get going by popping the clutch, but the problem goes away before I can get to a mechanic!
I'm starting to suspect that this car was wrecked or something. That or I just got a lemon.
Starter, battery or cables. Does a jump work? If so it's probably the battery. If not, starter or cable(s). Next time it doesn't work, try banging on the starter with a hammer. If it works after that replace the starter.
If you smelled burning wires in the passenger compartment you might want to look at the starter ignition switch switch in the steering column (where your keys go into).
I know there has been a discussion here before about aftermarket warranties, but does anyone have any up-to-date info on the performance of any of the major aftermarket companies? I am particularly interested in Warranty Gold. There had been some talk about customers being given a hard time about payment.
My dad has it, has used it, it's great stuff. If you never use it, then you've spent the money on insurance and haven't had any hassles. I'm a big fan of extended factory warranties.
rochcom, there's a Finance, Warranty and Insurance forum. I bet you'll get much better info about Warranty Gold there.
personally, I'd never accept an aftermarket warranty as they often have crippling exclusions. manufacturer extended warranties can be better (depends on the brand) but largely they aren't 'worth it' unless you get them at a substantial discount.
Think of extended warranty this way -- you're betting that the money you fork down on one plus the opportunity cost is less than the cost of future repairs during the extended warranty period.
Instead of paying up front for an extended warranty, I'd take that cash and invest it in something that's relatively liquid and not touch it until you get rid of the vehicle. That way, you minimize opportunity costs and best of all, the money is all yours until necessary.
I got mixed up! Subaru-Parts is Thomason Subaru in Gladstone, OR. LibertySubaru is obviously Liberty Subaru in Oradell, NJ. Liberty is the one who has very good prices and seemed quite quick to respond to queries. HTH, Theo in Colorado
$4500 transmission job feels a lot better when someone else is paying for it. $500 A/C compressor and re-fill is much better when someone else is paying for it. $600 rack and pinion steering ... etc. etc.
Although if I lived in a rural area I might not opt for an extended warranty. I'm convinved that NYC streets/NYC metro area takes a harsh toll on a vehicles systems.
Though I paid $700 to fix the A/C on my Escort. Ouch. Still, after 7 years my repairs totalled only about $1 grand, about the same as the warranty cost.
I have a 98 Legacy Outback Ltd. with the front seat heaters. The passenger side heater works fine on the "low" setting but blows the 20 amp fuse IMMEDIATELY when I switch to the "high" setting. Anyone else have this problem or know a good strategy for tracking down the problem?
An extended warranty would make sense in that case. However, are NYC dealers more critical as to what's a "warranty" repair vs. normal wear and tear due to the road conditions and driving styles?
My '98OB heated seats started acting very similar and until they wouldn't work any longer. Turned out to be a fuse located under the drivers side seat. Dealer did the work, but apparently he had to take the seat out to get to it..
My daughter has a 93 Loyale with a bad converter. Is it possible to replace it with a straight pipe without badly affecting performance? Her repair estimate is $230 and I'm not sure the car is worth it.
My dad has used his warranty pretty extensively. No problems. If the part is definitely broken, they fix it. It's the soft-problems that are hairy, but they are hairy even during the regular warranty period.
Mike M- I'm no expert on the subject but yes it can be done and shouldn't have much effect on performance. However, unless I'm badly mistaken, it's also illegal.
If you live in an area where there isn't any emissions testing, you could bore out the cat which would have the same effect of having a straight pipe put in. Or shoot a straight pipe through the cat. And remember it's only illegal if you get caught
MIKZKE- The reason it is illegal to remove is because of the smog emissions. It would never pass an emissions inspection, and when the inspector sees no converter, it's a real problem.
Is what I believe my dealer uses. At least that's what's on the windshield sticker. Personally, I like Valvoline 5W-30 for conventional oil and Mobil 1 for synthetic. The Mobil 1 goes in this weekend for the first time.
mike- Not to start a debate but not everyone breaks the law on a daily basis. And then there's a significant difference between speeding 10 mph over the limit and going out and killing somebody. Both may be illegal but only one will likely send you to jail.
not once have I *ever* seen "$4500 transmission job". then again I've owned no porsches or similar exotics. normal cars that you and I drive do not cost nearly that much to repair unless you are getting seriously overcharged for both parts and labor.
and AC brings to light a particular point about extended warranty exclusions. re-charging the AC is often not covered, and there's many more exclusions.
5w30 Havoline is what I heard also, used at the factory, too. Standard dino oil, SJ rated.
Removing the cat will increase emissions and most likely prevent the car from passing whatever safety or emissions tests your state may have. MD has a mandatory emissions test every two years, not sure about where you live.
Though I've seen turbos with straight pipes, no cat at all. People do it.
Maybe out in the mid-west. Here in metro NY like I said a std. fwd tranny job is right in the $2K range when its all said and done. I know a few tranny places and they all quoted in excess of $3000 for an AWD tranny on a subaru. Anywhere from $3000->$4K, tack on taxes and/or towing and you are up there. Maybe it's cheaper out where you are, in which case an extended warranty might be overkill. I'm just speaking of my own experience.
So you never speed? even in those 25mph zones??? When did anyone say anything about killing anyone? I was just saying that taking out your cat is no more or less illegal than a normal person's speeding. I just can't stand it when people get up and spout how this is illegal and that's illegal yadda yadda yadda, yet they themselves are guilty of breakin the law!
Well let's see, first it's more complicated because the internals include the front diffy IIRC, more parts to hook up? maybe? I dunno, but every place I've ever spoken to about trannies hates working on AWD and charges accordingly.
mike- I originally pointed out that removing the cat was illegal since many people may not be aware of that fact (I'd like someone considering the removal to at least make an informed decision).
I will however take issue with your statement that "taking out your cat is no more or less illegal than a normal person's speeding" Removing the cat is a federal crime and I suspect it carries a higher penalty than the fifty dollar fine typical with a simple speeding ticket.
Our 626's tranny incorporates the center diffy too. I can imagine the labor being a little more because it hooks up to an extra driveshaft (for the rear axle), but not enough to double the cost.
Comments
-juice
T.I.A.
Tom
Thought I once saw a note on an air whistle, which seems to be coming from the driver side mirror area.
However my sound seems to disappear when I slightly move the window down and then back up. Is this a seal problem or is there something I can add to either the seal or driver side mirror area.
Thanks.
Cheers!
Paul
Mike: the window angle can be adjusted slightly. That might help. Have your dealer take a peek.
Need more data, Paul. You mean seat heaters? If so, the center console isn't hard to take apart. Or do you mean the HVAC buttons?
-juice
All other dash lights still work, and I'm contemplating an eventual stereo swap... I may just wait & do 'em both at the same time, but inquiring minds stillw ant to know. Thanks!
Cheers!
Paul
-mike
In Round 1 she had the following replaced:
Glove box light, Shifter lights and one other one.
In my OBS I had the HVAC lights replaced. Cost was ~$60 at my dealer.
Now my wife's HVAC lights as well as a seat heater light are out.
Does Subaru use cheap bulbs or is this 3 years considered standard for interior light life?
Dennis
-mike
Dennis
Part $ 25
Labor $105
Vince
I would expect bulbs to last longer than that. My Escort lasted 7 years and lost only both headlights and the radio backlight.
Yeah, access is a real pain, but if you want to get to the stereo too, here's the chance.
-juice
Jim
I read about some person who did a fix by putting some heavy gauge wire inside the window seal (inside the fold) so that it snugs up tighter when it makes contact with the glass.
Now where did I find that...
Ken
Greg
The problem I need help with, however, is that, on a couple of occasions, the car refuses to start. Turning the key produces a clicking sound. After letting it click for a long time I thought I smelled a hot wire smell. The car is a manual, so I've been able to get going by popping the clutch, but the problem goes away before I can get to a mechanic!
I'm starting to suspect that this car was wrecked or something. That or I just got a lemon.
Thanks
Jim
-juice
Greg
I'd suggest going with the Subaru one. You never know if a smaller company will even be in business 5-10 years from now to honor your warranty claim.
-juice
-mike
personally, I'd never accept an aftermarket warranty as they often have crippling exclusions. manufacturer extended warranties can be better (depends on the brand) but largely they aren't 'worth it' unless you get them at a substantial discount.
-Colin
Instead of paying up front for an extended warranty, I'd take that cash and invest it in something that's relatively liquid and not touch it until you get rid of the vehicle. That way, you minimize opportunity costs and best of all, the money is all yours until necessary.
Ken
HTH, Theo in Colorado
$4500 transmission job feels a lot better when someone else is paying for it.
$500 A/C compressor and re-fill is much better when someone else is paying for it.
$600 rack and pinion steering ...
etc. etc.
Although if I lived in a rural area I might not opt for an extended warranty. I'm convinved that NYC streets/NYC metro area takes a harsh toll on a vehicles systems.
-mike
Though I paid $700 to fix the A/C on my Escort. Ouch. Still, after 7 years my repairs totalled only about $1 grand, about the same as the warranty cost.
-juice
I have a 98 Legacy Outback Ltd. with the front seat heaters. The passenger side heater works fine on the "low" setting but blows the 20 amp fuse IMMEDIATELY when I switch to the "high" setting. Anyone else have this problem or know a good strategy for tracking down the problem?
Thanks!
Kevin
-juice
-mike
Just curious what brand to stick with until
I want to change to Mobil 1.
Thanks in advance.
It's only a product number though.
-Dave
An extended warranty would make sense in that case. However, are NYC dealers more critical as to what's a "warranty" repair vs. normal wear and tear due to the road conditions and driving styles?
Ken
-mike
-Frank P.
-mike
The reason it is illegal to remove is because of the smog emissions. It would never pass an emissions inspection, and when the inspector sees no converter, it's a real problem.
-mike
Greg
-Frank P.
not once have I *ever* seen "$4500 transmission job". then again I've owned no porsches or similar exotics. normal cars that you and I drive do not cost nearly that much to repair unless you are getting seriously overcharged for both parts and labor.
and AC brings to light a particular point about extended warranty exclusions. re-charging the AC is often not covered, and there's many more exclusions.
-Colin
Removing the cat will increase emissions and most likely prevent the car from passing whatever safety or emissions tests your state may have. MD has a mandatory emissions test every two years, not sure about where you live.
Though I've seen turbos with straight pipes, no cat at all. People do it.
-juice
-mike
-juice
-mike
-mike
I will however take issue with your statement that "taking out your cat is no more or less illegal than a normal person's speeding" Removing the cat is a federal crime and I suspect it carries a higher penalty than the fifty dollar fine typical with a simple speeding ticket.
-Frank P.
-juice