Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dbowdbow Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the feedback on my wheel bearing issue. I'm canvassing other sources for the right rear replacement costs.

    80k seems early for this problem, but the crank seal leak at 62k seemed early too, and not covered under warranty either. This Sub is becoming a pretty expensive vehicle to maintain--not up to my expectations or other Japanese quality, but still great to drive and has never stranded me, at least.

    Dennis
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    is located at 167 Route 31 in Flemington, NJ. Put that address in at MapBlast.com or yahoo maps.

    The service manager is Diane Barry. Service phone is 908-782-2025. Another dealer may not get involved if your in the middle of a dispute though. You could see if they would have a "fresh" look at it (not getting involved if you have a case).

    Dennis
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the check engine light came on as I was driving home last night. it was in high vacuum cruise, and I think it's related to note that a new symptom has appeared-- high idle after cruising. the idle will be 1200-1500 rpm for about 5-10 seconds after coming to a stop.

    hmm.

    runs great though... trying to decide if I should bring it in or by an OBDII scanner. or reset the ECU again and see if the MIL comes back.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    High idle? That's just the ECU learning your driving habits. ;-)

    I'd bring it in only because it's free and it won't hurt to learn what the code meant.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    It's not free if the problem is directly resulting from something I've done.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, they don't need to know that. You can't tell the cams aren't stock, can you?

    -juice
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    Sorry I missed your posts. I've been having a bit of a crazy week and I haven't been as attentive to this board as I usually try to be.

    I'll try to find your case tomorrow and I'll review it with the Team Leader for the your area of the country. As far as the C. S. Rep. you spoke with, they technically gave you the right answer (1 qt. per 1000 is within industry standard specifications). However, I can see where you would be concerned. Is your dealer doing an oil consumption test?

    I'll see what we can do to try and make you happy. It was really wrong and uncalled for the way the dealer responded to your concers and your comments on buying a WRX. Hopefully, we'll be able to win your business back.

    Thanks to Frank P. for getting me on track with your post. I'm sorry about the problem, but you can be sure that I will work with the Team Leader and Rep. for your area of the U. S. to try to get this resolved.

    Thanks for your patience!

    Patti
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    FYI - we are expecting to see very few car's that do not have the proper paint applied to the springs. That is why we are inspecting them all. In the off chance something "might" occur, the spring breaks very low and you will not even notice the failure. The problem is if the piece of spring punctures the tire, thus the guard. If your dealer see's rust, they'll replace the spring and install the guard just to make sure.

    Also, you may have noticed that the customer letter states that SOA will replace the spring if any rust or corrosion occurs for the life time of the car. I'm kind of proud that they are backing up their understanding of the issue with that kind of commitment. It's much more than you would see some other companies do. I know that for a fact, because I checked it out.

    Have the dealer check the springs. If they are corroded, we'll take care of it. If you have a problem later, we'll take care of it then.

    I understand where you would think that we should just replace all of the springs. If we found that we had a high failure rate or any indicator that there were a lot of affected vehicles, we would do that. With the information that we have, we do not expect to see many vehicles without the appropriate paint application. To incur cost to blanket replace all springs would not be fiscally responsible for us as a company and for the customer's that expect us to keep our vehicles affordable. We are very committed to our customer's and we would not take a risk if we saw one. If you have a problem with a dealer related to this issue, just call us at 1-800-SUBARU3 and I'm sure we can straighten it out.

    Thanks for the post!

    Patti
  • shortlidshortlid Member Posts: 50
    Apon further reading I have seen that you are right. I am also proud that a import company would stand behind there cars like no domestic has EVER!! Thank you for the clarification, I just wanted everyone to know about the issue.
  • dukephotodukephoto Member Posts: 49
    I have just bought a VDC, and am wondering if anyone has had any dealings with either Sharrett Subaru in Hagerstown, Md; or with Winchester Subaru in Winchester, Va.
    I live in Martinsburg, WV and am equidistant from both. Just wondering if one is better in the service department than the other.
    Thanks

    Dukephoto in WV
  • FrankMcFrankMc Member Posts: 228
    expensive (I'm halfway between Sharrett and Hanover PA, I switched to Lawrence), but I've never had anything break (my Subaru's only have 70k) to know about their repair service. I liked the sales practices @ Sharrett though.

    Frank
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Juice--

    You could if you pulled them out. I just feel some obligation to inspect this issue myself...

    -Colin
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Colin, what ever happened to returning to stock?

    Dennis
  • juliewenjuliewen Member Posts: 24
    Patti,
    I saw your message on the board. Thank you for your support. Are you a Subaru employee? I am not sure. But I appreciate your interest.
    I have been reading about the starting of a "case" with Subaru. I have only talked to one rep. so far and they did not mention anything about a case. At this point, I am waiting on a call back from a regional rep. (I think). Phil Rode is who I talked to and he said that probably Jody Cullen would call me within 24 to 48 hours. 48 hours is approaching.

    The receipt I have from the dealership lists procedure and parts. It reads: COMPRESSION TEST AND VISUAL INSPESTION REVEALED NO PROBLEM
    ADJUST OIL TO PROPER LEVEL
    MANUFACTURER STATES 1 QT. OF OIL EVERY 1000 MILES ACCEPTABLE.

    Stating that there was a visual inspection tells me basically nothing. I see from looking at the bolts on the cylinder heads that they were never budged. You can tell by the fine bits of corrosion and dust which are still present and take a while to build up. Also, you can see the edges of the head gaskets which are still dirty and by no means new. So I know the valves were not visually inspected. That is what needs to be done assuming compression test was within specs. I have no way of knowing this for sure as the reults for each cylinder are not listed.
    There are only a few possibilities for a problem like this. Everything is pointing to a problem with the valves.
    Bob Osterof at Liberty Subaru told me that a new valve cylinder head was being ordered for one side of the engine. Then they changed there minds. After having the car for 5 days, Bob told me that upon telling the person who was working on my car that I had places a few drops of oil on the spark plug threads during re-installation. This caused the mechanic to not be sure what the problem was any more. Bob wanted to replace the PCV valve to rule it out. But the throttle body is not oily. It would be if there was any PCV valve related problem. Bob had already told me it was dry, so when I pointed this out he had nothing to say. At this point I told him that I had already been in 5 times and did not want to waste more time by monitoring the oil level for 1000 more miles for a fix that we both knew would tell us nothing.
    So, I told him I needed Subaru of America's tel. number. He gave it to me and we ended the conversation. Then Bob called back a half hour later to tell me that he needed his loaner car back. He said he talked to Subaru and they told him that 1 quart per 1000 miles was even acceptable and that they were not going to fix my car.

    I guess that is sort of where we are now. There are, of course, more details but that is the main jist.

    As a customer who does know about cars, I am so angry. You know, my wife took the car in during one of these oil consumption tests and one of the techs. (She knows the name) said she was being so calm and that if it was his car burning this much when so new, he would be crazy. This is a glimpse of the fact that everone involved knows that this is not right to have a new car burning oil like this. And if Subaru is telling me it is normal, it is a cop-out. As I talk to people on the forums, I see what I would have thought. Many people with the same engines do not burn a drop of oil. Not all, but most. And the ones I run into are as mad as I am about it.
    Thanks,
    Scott Wendholt
    2000 Forester
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    I don't recall her title, but she is in the customer service group and can help move things a long. I had the pleasure of meeting her and other SoA employees at the Philadelphia auto show.

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Scott,

    I'd ask to see the results of the compression test. A leakdown test is better, but there's no % specified in the factory service manual. There is for compression, of course.

    ________

    Dennis,

    It wouldn't really be 'stock' anyway, but the cylinder head swap was called off because I could not justify the time and effort for the next return I'd get ($300). It doesn't matter what class you autocross in when you'd rather go for a bike ride than stand around for 4-6 hours. I can see myself doing driving schools next summer, you bet. Not many autocrosses though...

    -Colin
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    We all hold Patti in high regard. Let her help work the issue, hang in there. You are right in not accepting the "stnd answer".

    Greg
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I'm also going to add my praise for Patti. We're lucky to have her as part of the Subaru Crew. She's interested in our ownership experience and will do what she can to help get issues (such as yours) resolved. She's certainly helped me out before. Please bear in mind however, that Patti is just one individual working at SOA. While she'll try and facilitate the right action, she can't work instantaneous miracles. I've found that patience and open communication is the way to go.

    Ken
  • juliewenjuliewen Member Posts: 24
    Thanks all. I see that it is clear from her note to me now that she is an employee of Subaru. But thanks for the encouraging words.
    By the way Colin, I asked them if they had done a leak down test and they said they would not as the compression test was normal. I realize that the leak down test tells more and is not very involved so I am not happy about this aspect either. But, I really don't get the idea that they are very good techs. at Liberty. Time and again they start running the conversation in circles. Even getting them to fill the oil to the exact full mark on the dip-stick was a challenge. We had to end up driving back all the way to the dealership after checking it at home the first time. Then after they had supposedly put it at the right level, we checked it before leaving and it was still wrong! Every time, it was overfilled. The first time it nearly 1 quart over full. This was all done as an oil consumption test. So we were starting every consumption test with an overfilled engine.
    As of now we have been back to the dealership for this problem 6 times.

    I am heartened to see Patti take my problem seriously. At Liberty Subaru, when my wife asked the owner Richard De Silva what Subaru's policy was as far as customer satisfaction, he did not answer and changed the subject. Also at SOA while talking to Phil Rode we asked what their policy was as far as customer satisfaction and he did not answer. Literally said nothing.

    I have not heard back from SOA but will await anything Patti has to offer. I guess I will have to call SOA again Monday if I don't hear from them by the end of the business day today, FRI.
    Thanks again,
    Scott Wendholt
    wendholtsj@aol.com
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Considering the PCV valve is not replaceable on the EJ25, I can see why you might think their diagnosis is questionable.

    Please forgive me for not going back to look if you've already mentioned it--

    but is there another dealer within a reasonable distance that you could bring your car to? I would drive 90 miles to avoid my local dealer for warranty work (Wichita, KS straight north to Salina). they're that incompetent, not to mention uncooperative.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Yes, dealers make a world of difference in service. I too drive 60 miles out of my way to go to Santa Cruz Subaru when Carlsen Subaru is just miles from my home.

    Ken
  • joseph50joseph50 Member Posts: 235
    Hello,
    Does anyone have any recommendations/cautions about Subaru dealer service departments in between West Philadelphia and, say, Lancaster? I wouldn't mind driving to an especially good one to have my work done.
    Thank you.
  • juliewenjuliewen Member Posts: 24
    I just talked to Patti from Subaru. I must say I am encouraged by her. We are still in the beginning stage of taking care of the problem. She needs to talk to the Liberty Subaru tech. and find out exactly what has or has not been done.
    So we will see. But much better feeling from her than anyone else so far involved.
    I will keep everyone up on the progress and keep checking in on this forum. Thanks to Frank, I think, for the email help.
    Scott
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Like Ken mentioned, be patient. I was at the end of my rope waiting for things to be taken care of. It took a few months to meet with the District Rep. because of scheduling conflicts. It's great that Patti has stepped in.

    Colin/Ken - yes, I recommended another dealer. I just checked Yahoo and Flemington is about 60 miles from Oradell. Well worth it, Scott once your current situation is sorted out. You could make a day of it. Lots of things to do in the area. Outlet shopping, Amish Farmer's market, test driving the WRX, etc. :-)

    Dennis
  • rgarbacciorgarbaccio Member Posts: 42
    Hi all -

    There needs to be a better search function in this site. I know this has been discussed...but I cannot find it. My OB's brakes squeak when I back out of the garage in the morning. Is this a cause for concern?

    Also - I have the 3000 mile/3 month checkup coming up...what should I expect to pay for this?

    Thanks - Rob
  • dukephotodukephoto Member Posts: 49
    I just got a VDC (two weeks ago) and am experiencing the same thing.
    I believe there was supposed to be a fix available starting sometime in September (last month), involving putting a shim on the brake.
    I am going in to change my oil on Tuesday and am going to speak to the service manager about it.
    I will let you know what they say Tuesday night or Weds.

    DUKEPHOTO in WV
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    Howdy all.

    The shim kit that eliminates the harmonic noise you are hearing should be getting to your dealer any day now. Have your dealer check the brakes out to make sure this is the noise the shims are intended for and they will get some for you. It will be taken care of under warranty. If your dealer has any questions, they can call us at 1-800-SUBARU3.

    Thanks and have a great weekend!

    Patti
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    Patti, to what models does this apply? VDC only?

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • beachfishbeachfish Member Posts: 97
    I think a quart every 1k is real good - for a '63 Chevy with 80k on it. Actually, a quart every 600 was good enough to keep a car out of the junkyard when I was a teen.

    My '86 Subaru 4WD GL wagon used a quart every 1.5k or 2k miles, but by then it was 14 years old and had been beat almost to death from dragging bottom on the beach. Drip, drip, drip. You'd think with all of that dripping that the front sub-frame members wouldn't have rusted through last December. So, now I have a new Forester.

    A quart every 1,000 miles after, what, 30,000 miles? I don't think so.

    Trying a different oil is worth a shot, but whatever is wrong probably isn't going to get any better by itself in the next 30,000 miles.

    I'm going to be following this closely.

    Good luck,

    John
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    careful when you speak the words "shim kit"... don't displace certain letters or try to say it too fast!

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • juliewenjuliewen Member Posts: 24
    John,
    Yes, I agree. I have a Toyota Celica (1987) with 210k that uses about 1 quart per 5000 miles. And this is my 3rd high milage Toyota. I have the same story, roughly, for all of them.
    I plan on 200k from a car these days. Heck, you can almost do that with new American cars. Japanese cars have been capable of that for years now.
    My Forester is operating fine now, but I cannot take the gamble on emissions, etc. in the future. Even if the car eclipses 100k, that is not enough for a $20k auto.
    But, I will say that I don't think all 2.5 L SOHC engines (25J) have this problem. I just hope I can get to the bottom of this as this is my only experience with Subaru to date and I have quite an inverstment in the car.

    I mentioned in a few posts back that I am happy to have Patti (mentioned in the forum) working on my problem. She gave me some hope and I am waiting to hear back from her probably tomorrow.

    I will let you know how things turn out for me.
    Good luck yourself,
    Scott
  • dan2001dan2001 Member Posts: 17
    My 5 month old H6 LLBeen's engine light came on after 6000 miles.(built in Feb of 2001) Dealer says code is P1443 and that means they must Fed-X my ECM to the east coast for a flash update to firmware and a parameter file update. It will take 3 to 4 days to get back.

    1. Is this reasonable and customary?
    2. Does LLBean maint package or normal warranty help me with a rental?

    Thanks a ton, this is my first Sub and I want it to be a good experience but I am getting nervous. -Dan
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    Hi Dan,

    1. This is the procedure others have described. Subaru is paying close attention to the ECM issue (debut of the H6).

    2. No. The policy varies by dealer. My dealer provides a free rental when our 00 GT has warranty service.

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    My '01 Forester S has a noise coming from the front end that is best described as a "crunching" sound. (It is similar to the sound you get from drum brakes, when you just start to release them from a stop.) Perhaps it is a dry rubber bushing. I hear it mostly at low speed, when going over bumps and broken/uneven pavement. Basically, whenever the front end is moving up and down at low speeds. It seems to be coming mostly from the right side, though I've also heard it from the left. I've tried to duplicate it by pushing up and down on the front corners, but haven't been able to hear it. The car only has 9K miles, and this started a month or two ago. I haven't yet taken it back to the dealer. Anyone familiar with this type of noise in their vehicle?

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Len
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    If pushing down on the vehicle doesn't reproduce the noise, it might be some kind of rubbing going on with panels. Since you're under 12K miles, the dealer should be receptive to fixing squeaks, rattles and other funny noises.

    Ken
  • kate5000kate5000 Member Posts: 1,271
    It's time for Silvius to swap his shoes, to rotate tires I mean. It's time for 22.5K service. The nearby dealers all charge arm and leg for this service, so I plan to take Silvius to an independent mechanic. I wanted to make sure they don't over/undertorque lug nuts. I browsed through the manual and service booklet but did not find the spec value for torque. Was it 72? Please advise.
  • gof4gof4 Member Posts: 22
    Dan,
    I recently had the ecm reprogrammed on my Bean. Left the car on tuesday & had it back on thursday. Subaru picked up the cost of the car rental(I believe they will pay up to $30.00 day)

    Bob
  • evilizardevilizard Member Posts: 195
    72 ft lbs is the spec for the wheel lug nuts.
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Leo,

    I was just complaining of the same thing on my 01 OB. If I open the hood on mine and push up and down I can hear the rubber crunching of the struts. However mine is a real faint sound. Can only hear if windows are up and everything silent and is going really slow. I think there is nothing wrong here, just the rubber breaking in. Can't find anything wrong with strut or anything else.

    I would like to know what cars are getting this brake shim kit and if is going to be considered a recall????
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think it was 65-70 lb-ft for alloys, 70-75 for steel wheels. 72 is close enough if you already did that.

    Patti's title is Customer Service Goddess. ;-)

    Good to hear the brake shim fix is available. I'll ask my dad if that's a problem on his.

    Len: a crunch? Sway bar bushings usually squeek. Could it be debris in the springs or suspension? Been off road at all?

    At that low mileage, I'd let the dealer look at it. You're still under the 1 year adjustment period, so bring up any other minor issues you may have while you're at it.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OK, not on my Subie, I'm sorry. Should I even apologize, given Sandy's been so reliable?

    Any how, our 626 tranny service light came on for about a second, then off. I added 1/2 quart of gear oil, but a few hundred miles later the light went on again, for about 3 seconds, and off again.

    I'm going to swap all the fluid this time instead of topping it off, but any other suggestions? The clutch grabs nicely, so that's not it. No unusual sounds, and mileage was good for that tank of gas. No symptoms whatsever, just an idiot light.

    It's out of warranty, too. Mazda gave us 50k miles, vs. 60k for Subies. :-(

    -juice
  • dave226dave226 Member Posts: 22
    Hi guys...haven't been on for a while but my sympathies to all those affected by the attacks.

    I had previously posted my concerns of what I thought was pinging from my 00 legacy with 23000km. I had the Subaru rep out for a test drive and he says it's "piston slap" that the piston has a little more clearance than it should. (engine makes a metalic clanging sound under certain load conditions and especially when the outside temperature is high) He also says it does not affect the engine. I am not sure about what he says. Can anyone enlighten me on Piston slap and consequences if i allow it to continue? Also, should I worry about this condition?

    Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    How if your fuel efficiency? I'm curious as to whether you're getting a good seal in the combustion chambers.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Was the transmission oil low? I'm assuming you checked the tranny dipstick.

    Bob
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    Dave,

    I believe piston slap occurs only on the 2.2l motor with short piston skirts and is noticeable when cold. If the problem goes away when the engine warms, it's probably not an issue. I have not heard of a 2.5l (which you have) with piston slap. Pinging or some other condition is more likely. If you're not satisfied with your dealer's service, hopefully you can try another one nearby.

    Here is search for "piston slap" on the.Outback mailing list.

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    There is no dipstick, I guess because it's a manual. Autos do have one, though.

    You have to remove the upper, filler plug, and basically dip your finger in. I could not "reach" the oil, so I added some with a hand held oil pump, until it spills out (the car has to be level). Works, but it's messy. Your wife will love the gear oil cologne. The stuff wreaks.

    I was proud of myself, since I had no documentation to help me, and went purely by instinct. I had done my Miata, but RWD is completely different than FWD. The 626's trans is below the engine, way forward, and integrated with the center diffy.

    The Miata's tranny sits behind the engine, towards the center of the car. Harder to reach and service, but much better weight distribution.

    Now I begin to have a bigger appreciation for Subaru's packaging. All that stuff on the 626 sits fore of the front axle, hence the terrible weight distribution and reluctance to turn in.

    So, now I need to change the trans oil completely. It's kind of like an oil change. The drain plug is at the bottom of the transmission, it's a 22mm bolt! Wow! Let it drain, cap it off, then refill from the fill hole (which sits higher up on the tranny) until it spills out. Maybe I'll take photos, though not many 626 owners do this type of thing themselves.

    I'm trying to find out what the capacity is, since the owner's manual does not mention it. I could not find a Chilton's or Haynes Manual at a few auto parts stores I visited, so I may have to guess (2-3 quarts, most likely).

    I may pop in to the Probe topics since it shares an engine with the 626. Hopefully someone can help.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    center diffy?

    unless your 626 is AWD it has but one differential, and that would be the front one by definition. you've described the transmission behind any FWD, transverse mounted engine.

    hehe, and gear oil *reeks* of dead fish. the smell could wreak havoc on your love life though. ;-)

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Of course I meant front (only) diffy. Colin would call me on something like that. ;-)

    It's open too. Someone in our household (I promised I wouldn't say who) has managed to high center that car in our very own driveway, not once but twice! One wheel in the air and it spins helplessly, stuck.

    -juice
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    I have a small but annoying problem that has been an issue since the day I bought the car. The tires keep going slightly out of balance within 1000 miles or so. The car was misaligned from the factory, so the OE Firestones wore badly. By the time I noticed and had an alignment done they were too far gone to keep. I replaced them with Continential's. I've had the alignment done twice, the last time when I switched tires. The tire guy has checked the rims and tires, which look okay. They all balance out fine on the machine. We've tried different tire pressures with no effect. Does anybody have any other suggestions?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes. Try a shop that has the new type of tire balancing machines. I'm not sure what they are called, but they basically put the tire on a treadmill and apply pressure on the tire, so it's balanced for the way it will be used in the real world.

    I saw a tidbit on this in Motor Week. It was really neat to see the tire being balanced in that sophisticated way.

    They also showed a different way to balance tires. They put a type of powder inside the tire, that is supposed to naturally balance the tire again and again, as it wears. I forget the details, but it seemed intruiging.

    You may want to pose the same question in the tires, tires, tires topic.

    -juice
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