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Last night, on the way back from the dealer (Tom Wood Subaru, Indianapolis) CEL came on AGAIN!!
Anyboy know what this could be?
If you feel like they are dragging their feet, call the 800 number and have a case file opened. Once you do, and depending on the level of service you get, we can get Patti of SoA involved to get a quick resolution.
-juice
-mike
-mike
-mike
You should ba able to get one for a few hundred. Good luck!
$200 is a good estimate for the parts.
BTW, 165k miles for an original exhaust ain't too shabby.
-juice
Thanks,
Ron
Thanks,
Patti
-juice
Any advice on how to repair it, w/o paying my local Subaru dealer a ton of cash (or does anyone think that a local type shop could get the part(s), and do it for less?
Also, how much work would it take to repair this? My brother's 95 Legacy LS had the same problem, when it was about 4 years old. I think the mechanics had to take body panel off (?) to get to the antenna.
Thanks a bunch.
I've been mulling over switching from the Yokos to Goodyear Aquatred 3's for my 2001 Forester S. If anyone has had real-life experience with this brand in snow and on ice, I would appreciate reading your post.
Thanks,
Joe
Andrew, I recall a post on the Outback mailing list on yahoo! groups ( groups.yahoo.com ; you might have to join to view messages). Wish I had further info.
..Mike
..Mike
It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car, definitely behind me, similar to if a pebble richocheted off something back there. Someone mentioned it might be the rear diff twisting its bushings? I am trying to shift as smooth as possible.
I wasn't worried about it until I realized no one else seems to have it.
thanks!
Caroline
I recently read a post by Colin (I don't know when it was posted) about ordering parts. The following is a quote from that post...
Again, I still feel loyalty to Darlene because she helped me immensely, but I do want to point out where I would get parts right now: Lisa (aka "Sugar" on the iclub) from Troncalli Subaru in Georgia. Her email address is sugar30041@yahoo.com or you can private message her (userid = sugar) if you are a member of the iClub messageboard."
I placed an order for oil filters and crush washers from her. I placed the order on 9/13 and received the parts on 9/19! It only cost me $3.00 for the shipping and handling and she was so nice to deal with.
Another option for parts...
~~~Pat
Hmm... clicking. Get in the car and with the engine off, depress and release the clutch a few times. Hear any clicking?
Just want to get that one out of the way, it's a common thing for Subarus and easy to fix. Yeah, I know you said the back of the car...
-Colin
Frank
much appreciated
Caroline
Of course some 4WD vehicals have whats known as a low range of gears which adjust the gearing and power transfer to the wheels in order to get started on or out of slick surfaces.
Our Subies have permanent AWD.
AWD is just a general classification for 4WD vehicles that don't have low-range gearing for serious off-road use.
Some AWD systems are part-time, like that found in the CR-V, for example. Basically, the vehicle is in 2WD mode until the system is triggered to send power to the other two wheels.
Other vehicles like Subarus are full-time AWD. Power is always being sent to all four wheels, all the time.
In general, permanent AWD vehicles provide better traction and handling characteristics than their part-time counterparts. The downside is that permanent systems sometimes are less fuel-efficient.
Ken
Does it occur only at a particular time? (first thing in the morning, after idling in traffic, only on bumpy roads, etc)
Is it obvious enough that someone else can hear it after you point it out?
Can you duplicate it fairly easily?
At this point I'd wildly guess heat shielding on the exhaust, but maybe someone else or I will have a better theory after some more info...
-Colin
I am at the 9K mark, and within a few weeks from now, I will need my next oil change at around 10K miles.
Just wanted an affirmation if going to Mobil 1 is the right thing. Once using Mobil 1, I plan to change it every 5-6K miles rather than every 3K which I now try to do. Yet someone on the Subaru Newsgroup was relating about synthetics having more susceptible for oil leaks. They also say once you go to synthetics you should not go back to dino oil.
What's the groups concensus regarding going to Synthetics? I would also be interested in the groups thoughts about leakage, and whether or not one can go back to dinos in the future.
As always, my thanks in advance.
I have a lot of experience with Mobil 1 and can speak to that. I have used it in a variety of vehicles for over 11 years and never have had any problems. The current owner of my '90 Dodge Daytona with the Mitsu 3.0l V6 still uses Mobil 1 and is approaching 200K miles with no problems.
The current owner of my wife's '95 Neon Sport switched back to dino and has had no problems. My lawn tractor which also uses Mobil 1 got mistakenly switched back to dino when it went in to have the front axle replaced (don't ask), and I have had no problem with that. I _would_ be concerned about switching back from a non-compatible synthetic, but not Mobil 1.
Dino oils swell seals and gaskets, early synthetics did not. I again can't speak for all brands, but Mobil 1 specifically addressed the issue.
I have put Mobil 1 in both of our '01 Foresters at ~7K. I can tell you that the results are very noticeable. They are both much smoother, the word "silky" comes to mind. My MT vehicle is much smoother at low RPM, gentle acceleration in 4th gear (sometimes I get lazy). Previously I didn't like to even drop to 40 MPH without down shifting to 3rd because I didn't like the "feel", but now I find I can drop below 40 if I choose.
This of course is just an example, the engine revs more freely too. I seems very happy with Mobil 1. The main reason I use it is for cold starts. It is more "clingy" and also flows better when cold because there is no wax. It gets cold here in New England but my vehicles always crank the same as in Summer.
I have mentioned this before but I also have a '95 Dakota with the 5.2l Magnum V8 that I have put a few performance parts on. I don't baby it and have ~60K on it, ~55K with Mobil 1. At ~50K the intake and valve covers had to come off for a TSB to replace a gasket on the underside of the intake (stupid design but that's a different story). I asked to see it while it was apart.
I checked out the lifters and pushrods, the valve area including the rocker pivot points, and everything else in general. Besides being spotlessly clean, there was no noticeable wear anywhere. Everything looked brand new.
The Technician saw me looking around and came over. He asked how many miles on that engine. I told him it was the original and had 50K. He said it looked like a new engine and "you must use Mobil 1".
If your path of investigation has led you to Mobil 1, I would encourage you to not let generalized statements dissuade you.
Regards,
Frank
I have a 2001 outback and have some noise too. I had it in once and the mechanic didn't hear a thing... If I remember a few others posted with a similar noise back in May or June. For me it happens mostly when its cold. Like the first thing in the morning. Very seldom when the car is warm or if its 90 degrees outside.
Do you have an automatic or manual transmision?
--Jay
mike
" What is an alkylated aromatic?
An alkylated aromatic is a synthetic hydrocarbon designed by Mobil with a different chemical structure than polyalphaolefins (PAOs). It is fully compatible with both the other synthetic components of Mobil 1 and with conventional motor oils. We have begun using this fluid in conjunction with PAO and synthetic esters based on their combined excellent performance in protecting your engine against wear, sludge formation and piston deposits. This makes Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula fully compatible with conventional motor oils. "
Regards,
Frank
...inquiring minds want to know...
Cheers!
Paul
Regards,
Frank
Of course, it is not good for the engine but at least it is has good compression ratio because of that carbon seal. If you put synthetic oil into it, the oil will "wash away" all that carbon seal causing loss of your compression ratio ( You don't want that!) with increased engine noise because of unsealed gaps between engine parts.
Like I said, it applies only to engines with greater mileage and I think this is the engine with 60K.
Has anyone had experience with it and were you able to repair it yourself or how much did it cost you? Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Trinket
Caroline: it's worth putting a little lithium grease on the sway bars to see if that stops the squeeking. I know they're supposed to act in turns primarily, but under acceleration there is squat in the suspension.
My Forester has 41k miles and never burned any oil. Two leaks at 30k is unheard of.
At least it's documented now, and since the problem began before the warranty expired, I'd expect Subaru to take care of any problems down the road, if they're at all related to these early ones.
-juice
I can't duplicate it easily, for instance I only heard it once this morning, and it's not very loud. But I noticed I may have taken my foot off the gas a little too abruptly prior to depressing the clutch. I let someone else drive and I heard it once, he thought it was because he let up the clutch too soon/too quickly (?)
Thanks anyway, Colin
-Caroline
Greg
Paint: I usually use 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound # 39002 for scratches, but it's a bit too abrasive for the thin Subaru paint. I was able to remove about 80% of the scratches using the leftover Mother's California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax I had from their clay bar kit. Those that remain require close inspection and viewing at a >45-degree angle of approach to the car. I followed with Mother's Pure Carnauba without cleaners or abrasives. The only downside is that I can still see some "water marks" caused by the Mother's Showtime instant detailer that I used when I clayed the car back in early August. Any suggestions? I thought of using Griot's system but it's way more expensive and less convenient than Mother's.
Plastic: I've only mentioned it once before, but the Novus 1-2-3 plastic polish system worked wonders on removing the scratches from my C-pillars as well as all of the plastic trim, including side view mirrors. Used Novus 3 (coarsest) to start buffing out the scratches, Novus 2 (medium) to finish and remove oxidation, and Novus 1 (finest) to protect and give a shine. In the alternative you can use Mother's Back to Black instead of Novus 1. I counted 18 distinct scratches on the C-pillars (OCD enough for you?) and Novus got out 17 and about half of the 18th.
I ran across the Novus system at a Harley-Davidson dealership a couple years ago and have used it successfully on Lexan and Plexiglas (Perspex) windows and doors, CD jewelboxes and promo car models. I know now it works well on full-sized cars and I plan to keep some handy should I *cough*trail ride*cough* need it again. Novus has been very hard to find but I see now they have a website at www.noscratch.com.
Usual disclaimers apply (I don't work for, sell or distribute 3M, Mother's or Novus products - note my use of Mother's Showtime was not without problems). Maybe it's time to spring more $ for the Klasse of Zaino Bros. products?
Ed
Boy, I removed it and hit it a couple of time, and just watched the sand fall out. Hard to believe, it was a mess! After that I used a vacuum cleaner to get the rest out.
Ed: time to check, maybe even change, the air filter. ;-)
-juice
Thanks,
Ed