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Comments
-mike
-mike
Would be interesting to know if that will be true in the '09 Forester... :confuse:
-mike
The lack of smoothness you observed could mean there are issues with something in the driveline on the H6 you test drove.
Thing is, when people shop used, I usually tell them, if it's quiet and smooth, it's a buy. Any clunkiness and you should walk or at least figure out what caused it.
I'll try to find another one to drive, though the lack of response in both XT and H6 suggests I'll have to manually shift/set up the autotrans to get the kind of response my old Maxx now has (which is kinda ironic as the Maxx has less power and just as much weight !!). Then again, perhaps it was wrong fuel or other issues discussed elsewhere.
BTW, A recent review of an '08 Cadillac CTS said it suffered the same auto trans lag issues (apparently due to the trans trying to optimize fuel economy).
Subaru America would not provide torque curves for H6 compared to XT Turbo, so I am really in the dark on how these engines really compare.
Car has 40k and tranny fluid was replaced at about 30k. Mechanic added a SOA synthetic tranny additive later, after I mentioned the rough shifts. Additive had no effect. No TCU codes showing that I know of.
Seems to be a problem even after I've driven the car for some time. Happens in the summer too, just more in the winter. The shift can be really abrupt. We're talking a real jolt.
I drove another Forester with about the same mileage. Definitely not as abrupt. My 00 Outback never felt abrupt.
I’m taking it to the dealer to see if they have any answers. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
-mike
I suspect the H6 will also prove more sprightly if kept in lower gears to allow the engine to work within its upper regions.
But around town, when the engines were loafing along with transmission in D (the way a lot of people, myself included, drive) the Subies were definitely less responsive. Perhaps CU and others finding that behavour were in similar situations.
And as mentioned, one review of the Cadillac CTS showed the same issue.
The workaround for Subie appears to be managing the trans so it doesn't sit in upper gears, and use premium fuel.
-mike
I'll try the IMpreza WRX next and see if that is more responsive.
-mike
Most Detroit cars I've driven "respond" quickly to a press on the gas pedal, Usually within half a second. Granted, the level of that response may be tepid to tremendous depending on the available power, but the _time_ for the response is relatively short.
I'm still figuring out how to drive the OB's to get that _time factor_ of response. My guess is it's keeping the engine in the upper rev ranges.
...and it's not unique to Subaru. The Cadillac CTS with auto has the same problem. It may be due to CAFE, emission control, or other issues. A lot has changed since '04 !!
How does the '08 Impreza WRX compare with the '08 Outback XT in terms of responsiveness (not ultimate power) ?
In other words, if you are in normal traffic, and have to pass somebody, which car responds more quickly?
It'll be a while before I can find time to drive (or find) a WRX Impreza, so any other user comments would be appreciated.
and if I have repeated myself, my apologies - two jobs during Xmas can take a lot out of you !!
* 3.5 liters, vs. 2.5 or 3.0
* the Maxx was probably not throttle-by-wire
* the Subarus were not in Sport mode for the Transmission
* AWD so more driveline drag
The 3500 engine is designed for torque at low revs, and runs out of breath at high rpm. The Subaru engines are (almost) the opposite.
Yes, the current Subie engines appear the exact opposite of the Maxx engine.
Could a Subie workaround be, for around town driving, to keep them in high rev ranges by using sport mode with trans in 3rd gear?
Which suggests : if you are in sport mode of the OB trans, will it shift to next gear should driver accelerate past the gears' range, or will it let the engine bang against its rev limiter (encouraging you to shift it yourself)?
And you are right about the maxx 3500 engine. The 3900 engine for the maxx has much better breathability, but GM put it in only in the SS series, which for the Maxx resulted in a fuel guzzler due to a "performance" choice of final drive ratios. The SS Maxx also suffers from hard ride, ridiculous turning circle and other oddities due to marketing, not enginering choices. Its traction control is superior to other Maxxes, though.
That test drive experience makes any Subaru feel like a rocket!
I think you are referring to the manual-shift mode rather than "sport." Sport remains fully automatic, but simply changes the shift-points on the transmission. To enter sport mode, pull the shifter to the left while it is in D and do not move it up or down. If you do move it up or down, you change the transmission to manual-shift mode until it is returned to the normal D position.
But, in manual-shift mode, if you do not shift within preset limits on the car, the transmission will shift automatically. On the 4EAT, I believe it is between 1200 and 5500 RPMs, though I have not paid attention to the thresholds. If I use this mode, I will sometimes not shift to 1st quick enough and the car shifts for me, but it is tough to "forget" to shift at the upper RPM region! :P
I thought I would test this out on the way home last night to see the exact shift points. On the upper end, the automatic shift point while in manual mode is 6000 RPM. I was in second gear when I tested it, and the car was traveling at 70 mph when I hit 6000. It was not dependent on whether I was aggressively accelerating or not. If I stopped moving faster, say, at 5800 RPM, it just sat there in 2nd gear. As soon as the tachometer hit 6000, though, it shifted to 3rd.
On the other end of the spectrum, the RPM seems more flexible. With solid, constant braking action, the car shifted from 4 to 3 at 900 RPM, from 3 to 2 at 800, and from 2 to 1 at 700.
-Wes-
Thanks
i really want another subie but not if they are going to soak me in the service dept!!!
thanks
I know that Subaru did have a head gasket issue on the 2000 OB - that was my previous car and I had the head gaskets replaced under a TSB. If I remember correctly if there was a problem Subaru replaced them under warranty; if no existing problem then they were supposed to add a "conditioner" to the cooling system and extend the warranty to 80,000 miles.
If your dealer is saying they have no knowwledge of this, contact SOA directly.
Mark
I am guessing that I need two new Struts and an Alignment, but wanted to check.
One mechanic stated that I needed new springs, while a 2nd stated that I probably did not. The 2nd also stated I could get spacers for the springs if I was really worried about it.
Front had the shocks replaced at 80K, not the springs, and seems to be fine.
What should I do?
-mike
Payload is, what, about 850 lbs? Make sure you aren't carrying any unnecessary dead weight in the trunk.
Nearest dealer is >100 miles away, and the local parts stores don't stock them and must special order them, prepaid. I don't want to buy a new one if mine is good.
'99 Legacy Outback 30th Anniv, 2.5L. Engine quit on the road, won't restart, trying to rule out causes. No trouble codes on OBDII reader.
Thanks for any info available,
TB
Did you check the timing belt?
-mike
TB
Cross the alternator off the list and the timing belt.
-mike
Not the way you are going about it. Are you saying an oil change place nicked two boots such that both CV joints lost lube and were ruined? Is this physically possible? To cut both boots? During an oil change? For a slow loss of lube to ruin 2 joints in a few days? Is Valvoline competent to make such statements? Why do you believe an oil change shop about such a technical and serious matter? It sounds like nonsense.
Take your car to a Subaru dealer for evaluation. It is possible that there is nothing wrong with the boots or joints, and that the oil change shop merely got motor oil all over the headers and heat shields and plastic pans and boots.
1. Tail swing out during emergency manuevers (they couldn't get stability control on that model)
2. Engine (2.5 i ) was less responsive than the other cars they have tested.
Not sure what will fix either of these short of waiting for an all new chassis and engine....
Perhaps direct injection would make a significant difference. But when???
I'm surprised CR wasn't enthusiastic about the 2.5's acceleration... I think it's pretty comparable to its competitors' 4-cylinder offerings. *shrug*
-mike
10.8 sec 0-60 versus 9.8 for the four cylinder Accord at the same price point.
Did you notice the Legacy actually uses less fuel than the 4 cylinder Accord? $20 less per year on gas, with AWD thrown in as part of the bargain.
So the Accord was quicker but it came at the expense of as-tested fuel mileage. With FWD it should easily have beaten the Legacy in that regard.
The sliding the tail out thing - Subaru very badly needs to make stability control standard, however it's also a fun driving trait. The AWD corrects itself. To a novice that may seem scary, but for me, it's a lot of fun. Just give us an off switch with the VSC.
AND Subaru need to retrain dealers like the owner at Evanston Subaru who told me when I wanted an Outback 3.0 VDC that they do not order them and VDC has no value! So I bought My VDC wagon elsewhere.
No fun if this trait "helps" the car slide off the road in bad weather. I really wish Subaru let users adjust front/back AWD balance (only on the STI, I think...).
The Outback 2.5i CU's tested did worse in acceleration - barely equal to a Prius. Then again, that test was 2 years ago.
Direct Injection seems to improve low end torque for the engines it has been used on. So perhaps that will broaden the powerband of Subaru Engines.
Pasian, will the next Outback grow in size a lot? I'd hate to see it pass the 190 inch length mark.
The only thing that is going to help the car slide off the road is the driver. I have put 80,000 miles on Subaru vehicles - just on ice/snow covered roads. Only once has the tail of one of them slipped unless I wanted it to do so, and that time the car had quite a bit of assistance from other factors. They will understeer if you do not respect the traction limits, but indiscriminate tail sliding, no.
My prob is there is a constant beep from this car with the key removed; car running, etc. It is not a chime, nor is it a beep - beep sound. It is on constant.
It just started to do this (my daughter has the car at school and when she came home I noticed the sound when I went to change oil).
When I pull the fuse for the clock/radio/interior lites (under the hood), the beep slowly bleeds off.
Thus, some circuitry is being charged up, i.e. a capacitor some place.
Called the dealership - no idea.
Don't have service manuals so unsure what is all on this circuit. The clock, radio and interior lites all work fine. Could there be a security issue? Will try to lock the car with the remote to see if this cures it, but car is now at college w/ fuse pulled. Daughter has a hard time not having the radio work!!! Thanx, folks!!