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Comments
This is our second Forester (2009). The other one never had this issue.
Last I checked California had a cancellation option for used cars, but fees and restrictions applied. New Jersey has a one day cooling off period if you lease a car to review the unsigned lease terms.
You can certainly try to unwind the deal but I think you're stuck with a warranty repair.
Bummer but stuff happens.
As far as I am concerned, ECM should be good for at least 200K miles or more. If it fails before then, get rid of the car and fire the manufacturer. Yup, we harsh on them. We buy transportation not something sitting in my shop or theirs. There really is no excuse for any major driveline problems in anything for the first 200K miles with proper maintenance of course, other than abuse or accidents. That has been my atitude for the past 15+ years.
Now, if I was you, first to the dealer to fix it, 2nd call to attorney for advice, 3rd, begin needed documentation if it turns out to be a lemon.
A lemon from Subaru? If made in the US, I would not be surprised. We have seen a quality difference in American built versus Japanese built Subies.....and Toy's as well. Something that is considered now when buying.
Could it be the seals ? or If anything can be wrong with it I REALLy apreciated the help figuring my caR PROBLEM. :sick:
We had a 626, and an axle boot was damaged and leaked grease. The grease ended up shorting out an O2 sensor and gave a check engine light (plus the axle was noisy).
So one problem had a domino effect and created another. I think it was a rock or something that cut the rubber axle boot.
Now, based on what you said I assume a manual transmission? Is the leak over the first cat or second cat. If you can not determine where it is coming from, then you need to clean house. Get a can of engine cleaner, follow directions and clean up everything under there. Then you start watching what and where the leak is as you use the car. Tip, put cardboard underneath when it is parked at home and mark how it fits under the car. Where the drips are is where the leaks starts. Oil will also blow back from air flowing underneath as the car runs.
Common leak points to watch on Subies are: valve cover gaskets, power steering systems and the dreaded oil galley seal. The first can be tighten a little bit, the first second and third I live with until it threatens serviceability of the vehicle. There are other sources, but these are the most common and have engine oil of power steering fluid.
So again, I need more info, mileage, engine, model and transmission type. By the way....won't start? Oil leak? That old of a Subaru does not use "clutch oil." Are the tires in good shape also? Any bulges in any of them? Look at them carefully especially in the tread surface. Spin them and watch the tire tread for eveness. Tha year is OBD I, so check the oil level.
I brought it to Subaru dealer for diagnostics thinking that they will find a bearing problem. Instead, I am hearing over the phone that they are still looking into this, dropped the oil pan, and are finding possible issue with "turbo". My engine is not turbo-charged. It seems like complete nonsense, like they are confusing my car with someone elsse's. But then I got confused by a Yahoo/answers comment "all Subarus have turbo". Is there some other part of the Outback engine/transmission that can be called "turbo" ? Is it feasible that such part would move with the road speed and not with engine speed ?
What sort of noise is it? A whine? Is there any vibration?
I had an old outback that produced a bit of a whine from the rear differential the last 50,000 miles or so that I owned it (started at about 170,000). It grew progressively louder as the mileage advanced, but was constantly there, varying with speed and, to some degree, temperature (it didn't produce the noise during the winter months until the differential warmed up).
They tested it today and gave me a low ball offer. Apparently my rear trailing bushings are going and they need replacement. I have an extended warranty from a different dealership with no deductible so should this be covered? They said it is a $500 fix. ...with 44,500 miles on the car?
Would this bushing thing make it shake on the highway?
I just can't sell this on my own with a clear conscience knowing how annoying these issues are. :lemon:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/Kostamojen/Impreza%20Suspension%20Lift/tr- ailingarmbrackets.jpg
A worn and loose bushing would allow play in the rear suspension and drive that affects alignment and could cause shaking on the highway.
Seems unusual for the bushing(s) to wear out at 44K. Maybe the car has been cornered hard or used off-road.
Here is a comment on another forum about these bushings:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/rear-trailing-arms-bushings-104446/
10 hours of labor cost. Is the price out of line? Is it worth it?
2001 outback with 200K miles.
--Jay
I think its both, but I need to double check that and get a complete list of what they are doing.
Last summer the car never over heated but ran slightly warmer than normal. I started wondering then....sort of hoped if I ignore it long enough it would go away. Guess not. Its a 3rd car now and other than this is in good shape and ran good.
I put another 28K on my car with no further problems, until the fateful night it was destroyed at 220K.
It was a whine initially, with pitch proportional to speed. Dealership finally opened up transmission and replaced some bearings in there, and it surely removed 90% of the noise. Kudo's to them, they did it free of charge, because they already worked on that transmission half a year ago. There is some residual component of the noise remaining, this time it is more like a very weak radio-static hiss, almost like noise from air conditioner fluids moving, except that it is absent when car is stopped, and it is still present when car is moving and radio and AC are turned off. I presume this is about some other bearing that did not get replaced, right now it is almost imperceptible, I will have to see if it develops into something more serious over time.
- Rear Trailing Arm Bushing
- Front Control Arm
The shaking on the highway is gone at least.
Again, I bought this CPO last year and also purchased an extended warranty up to 100k. So, naturally, I didn't have to pay the $750 bill. The service department tried to make it seem so great how easy that was...I was thinking... a $750 fix for a 45k mile car?
Now, I am just hoping the transmission fails sooner than later so the chugging and body shakes I experience almost all the time can be fixed! 4 techs and a regional manager said it was normal operating conditions for the H6.
It won't cost that much and they will do a professional job. Your year of Subaru was fairly known for rusting exhausts in that location.
My advice... if the flange is rusted out, do as Colin suggested because the rest probably isn't far behind!
Thanks in advance
Peter
I might suggest doing both sides at the same time, depending on the age of the bulbs. If one's gone, the other one might not be far behind..
Thanks
Release that little metal retaining clip holding the socket to the housing. The bulb & socket should come straight out. No twisting needed.
Don't touch the new bulbs during install - the fingerprints on the bulb will create hot spots leading to premature bulb failure
Maybe I should check the passenger side.....but I think I need an 11mm wrench to take the air cover off .....which I can't find.
The "bright" light works but not the regular beam - so I guess the single bulb on my model performs both functions?
The good news is the dead bulb forced me to take my battery out and clean my posts!
The only other thing I can offer is if that rubber boot pulls off at that tab on top, which would expose the bulb enough to replace it.
I found a couple 'how-to's' on youtube. Here's one, but it doesn't look anything at all like yours: :confuse:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xu2Sae3BDPU
1. Lift the tab and pull the harness straight back to remove it.
2. Remove the bulb holder from the headlight assembly by turning it counter clockwise.
3. Pull the bulb/holder from the headlight assembly.
4. Install the new bulb/holder and turn clockwise to lock it in place.
5. Reconnect the electrical harness and ensure the tab locks in place.
They make it sound so easy, don't they?!
If you cannot get the harness off first, you can probably turn the whole unit counter-clockwise (usually about a quarter-turn, but you can feel when it separates once it starts turning), remove it, then pull the harness once you have a better line of sight on it.
If you need a copy of the manual, I referenced it here:
Subaru Owners Resource Center - Manuals
2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
:confuse:
Well, if the car *is* an 02 Impreza, that's the right info!
PS. Yes it is an Outback Sport (Impreza) - seemed like OBS was running abbreviation
I took out the battery because it was impossible to get to, then:
1. I pushed down on the black plastic right behind that rectangular tab in the middle of the photo and at the same time pulled on the electrical connector and it came off.
2. I twisted the serrated outer ring - it came off
3. Twisted the base of the bulb and it came off.
Putting it back - obvious reverse - only tricky part is lining the three narrow slots on the bulb with the lamp holder.
Thanks for the help everyone!
By the way - I just bought the $11 baselne Sylvania 9007 bulb and it works fine - but am now wondering about those Sylvania blue lights - any opinions on those?
On my 2010 Forester, I replaced the stock bulbs with Wagner TruView bulbs. They aren't expensive, provide a more neutral (whitish) light, and are really nice in that they don't cause hardly any glare. Of course, I don't benefit nearly as much from that as all the other drivers on the road, but I have a sight problem that makes me very sensitive to glare, so I appreciate it nonetheless.
For your car, that would be Wagner BP9007TV2 TruView Headlight Bulb (2-pack). I think they're about $12 for the pair on Amazon right now. I don't know about longevity yet (I just installed them this summer).
I've been thinking about replacing the sealed beam lights on my '69 Econoline with a set of housings that use 9007 bulbs. If I do that, I'll put the Silver Star set I still have in that. It will be a great use for them, too, since I tend to drive that vehicle about 100 miles a year and only during the summer (it's never dark here in the summer!). :P
When I look at the 'milk glass' lenses that many older cars sport, it makes me want to cry.
Also, what do you use to polish your 2001's housings?