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As soon as I read your message, I changed it with the temporary tire came with Forester. What I'm wondering is how fast can I drive with this tire? and how long can I drive? My dealership is about 15 miles away and can be only reached by highway...
by the way, the screw is on the side wall. they have to replace it now!! but how do I prove that in fact they are the one who put the screw there? if they deny, I don't know how to prove it other than saying I noticed the moment I drove off the dealer's parking lot...
Unfortunately, you stand about a 0% chance of proving your case. If you had stopped immediately and could show that it happened on their property, you might have gotten some consideration. Your only chance now would be to retrace your drive thru their site and find a pile of screws that you drove over to show that there was some negligence on their part.
You need to take a reasonable mans approach to this and ask yourself how you would respond if the situation were reversed.
Steve
Hmm? Do the new Foresters no longer come with a full size spare?
John
Craig
The screw was located toward the inner part of the tire. so from outside, it was hard to see.
They first agreed to fix the tire. However, once they saw the screw stuck on the side wall, they said they could not replace the tire. After 10 minutes of discussion, they agreed to see what they could do since I just bought the car there and it only had 800 miles on it.
They were very nice and helpful but I don't know if they can replace the tire though. at least I will know they will try to find a best solution for me.
Why?
Because you only pay to replace one tire, the tread on the others will match.
If the tires had 20,000 miles on them you'd be in deep. You would need 4 new tires, quadruple the cost, since the worn ones would not match the new tire (unless you paid to have it "shaved").
Be glad that it happened now, and not after a lot of wear.
-juice
It is indeed gratifying to see that they are trying to work with you. Perhaps you are among the lucky ones who has found a decent dealer?
Steve
BTW, how is your Ody? My '02 EX is about to roll 50k. Other than the tranny replacement, it has been very reliable, although it sounds like hell on all but smooth roads. Too much body flex making the sliders and tailgate squeak and groan.
Steve
The dealer is White Bear Acura/Subaru in Minnesota.
My point here is that the new engine with all new parts sounds like a better way to go. I'd think it would come with some sort of warranty. You likely could then sell it for more than you can get now...though still would suffer a loss you would not expect on a Subaru. Have you called SOA again and explained the story from scratch. I'd even mail them a packet of all paperwork and a lenghtly letter describing the issue. That may make more of an impact than a phone call. That is what I did with the RAV. It did not get me a repair but did get me the $1K credit towards a new Toyota. Ironically I am thinking of ditching the credit and buying a Subaru. The Rav is too small and the new 'bigger' one will likely cost too much...and we want a new car now. BUT, perhaps Subaru would off you something similar. You could even ask...that is if you would consider another Subaru. Good Luck!
I had a 22mm Perrin Rear Sway Bar and Whiteline endlinks installed on my '04 WRX sedan back in May. Handling noticeably improved w/ the upgrade, but the ride became noisy when going over speed bumps or road imperfections. Lately it's become even noisier w/ a lot of squeaky sounds even when I turn into my driveway or going over bumps at 5mph.
I've never had aftermarket sway bars prior to this, so I was wondering if this is normal. Or is this something I need to get checked. Anybody had any similar experience w/ aftermarket sway bars?
Thanks!
James B.
I know when I upgraded my swaybar, the bushings are rubber so I used lithium grease (I think). No noise at all.
If it was noisy from the get-go I'd have whoever did the install double check the torque on the endlinks and overall bracket snugness in general.
If you're hearing any thunks make sure the endlinks aren't hitting the calipers - I don't know about the WRX but on the FXT there isn't a lot of clearance between the bar and the banjo bolts on the calipers, in fact one vendor sells a kit to stop the swaybar from "walking" so it can't drift into the calipers.
HTH
Larry
Steve
I decided to get a new car after getting feed back from other members here, talking to a few car buddies of mine, and my financial advisor. Basically, there is no way I can recoup the cost of repairs or even engine replacement with the increase in resale value. It makes more sense to buy new and worry free. My advisor suggested getting a car with a very long warranty considering how long I keep my cars. So, right now I am leaning toward the new Suzuki Grand Vitara. checked the boards and they dont' seem to have a lot of problems, the redesigned version with the luxury package have everything I want in a car, so I don't need to add any aftermarket stuff.
As for SOA, they have the file as well as the repair orders from the two header jobs. Right now I am a bit turned off by Subaru, not by their cars, but by the directions and decisions SOA are making for the brand. I am going to hold off buying another Subaru for myself until the path of SOA and NA Subaru products become clearer. I would buy a Subaru for my girlfriend when ever she decides to.
Mike
Craig
If you have never done it before, I would not recommend disassembling the door panel to get to the speaker unless you feel pretty comfortable as a hobbyist mechanic / DIYer.
~Colin
Yeah, I have the same thought in the back of my head. Personally, I REALLY want the Xterra, but I am not the only one who is going to be in the car all the time. I do have to take into account my girlfriend's opinion, as we all know what would happen if the fairer gender is not happy... She don't really like the Xterra, only because it has a high step in height and she is short, and it's on a truck chasis while she is used to the smooth ride of the Forester, and she thinks it's too big :confuse: . I am still trying to sell her on the Xterra, there has to be middle ground there somewhere.
To still be on topic, the Forester's engine is still running fine, I noticed that if I get the engine thru that 2K - 2.5K rpm range quickly I don't get the rattling noise. Of course my MPG would suffer abit.
Mike
Anyone?
I'd suspect the connection right at the speaker.
-juice
Anyway, I've got the full-size spare on there now, and I need to have someone look at the tire to determine if it can be fixed. If I pressure down the spare to match the other three, I ought to be all right driving for a few dozen or so miles, yes?
(Extra credit question: if the flat can't be repaired, any all-season replacements to recommend? I don't care about noise, handling and snow/water performance are my priorities.)
Thanks,
Tim
I don't know if newer Foresters have a limited slip rear diff, but if they do, you will cause the least amount of rotational disturbance if you rotate the odd tire to the front. And yes, in theory, removing a few lbs will compensate for the slightly thicker tread (greater circumference).
I'll pass on the extra credit part!
Steve
But if you get really concerned about the effects of a different sized spare on your wheels, read up in your owner's manual on using a fuse to change your vehicle from AWD to FWD.
Kevin
In February I had my 2002 Outback Cleaned (engine power washed too - I know big mistake don't remind me) right after I did that ALL my indicator lights came on and the car died within two days. I live overseas so they had to order my part (alternator) - they replaced it - no issues till Sept. I left to go to the states for a month and when I returned the indicator lights came on again - just brake and battery this time. The car died the next day. They ordered ANOTHER alternator and it died in 5 min. So they ordered a third (I am without a car for a month at this point and my husband is deployed to Iraq - what fun). I picked it up yesterday - the car started and THE INDICATOR LIGHTS CAME ON!!! These guys are not Subaru people and I don't have a dealer here - The car is dead again and I am at a loss - so are they. Can anyone tell me if they have figured this problem out?
Thanks for your help.
Why did we turn away? A new Sante Fe is coming and we did not want to wait (it was suppose to get real big too), gas mileage on the Tuscon I thought was questionable, and finally a great offer on a Forester or Outback in my part of the country. (Plus the wife was surprisingly agreeable to the F or O after wanting a sit-up high SUV)
Good luck!
Perhaps you were thinking of the Reno, which is build in Korean at GM-DAT (formerly Daewoo) and badged as a Suzuki. Daewoo was never related to Hyundai or Kia, though.
rsginn: you must have some sort of electrical short. That's not an easy problem to trace, but I'd have a dealer look at that before replacing another alternator.
-juice
Ithink there is a short somewhere in the electrical system and it causes your system to overload and all kinds of problems can come from there. Your car has bunch of plugs attached to engine harness and sensors. If I was working on your car I would disengage all the plugs and air blow inside each of them. After that I would monitor voltage and how battery is getting charged by alternator.
Short isn't easy think to find but not impossible.
Good luck!
Steve
Craig
Especially sites that have forums! They have a great photo how-to section.
Glad you figured it out.
Jim
Rose
At the dealer, we looked at the whole handbrake assembly, and it seems like the whole thing is set up at an angle. I wonder why Subaru did this? Such a shame to ruin such a wonderful car. Any help or advice would be very much appreciated.
This story has a happy ending -- the tire had a nice clean puncture in the tread caused by a nail or screw or stray bullet or heaven knows what. It was easily patched, and the fine folks at Mavis Tires rebalanced it, reinstalled it, and equalized the pressure on the other three tires for the grand sum of $14.25 (with tax). They opined that the OEM tires looked like they had plenty of life left, too.
A pleasant turn of events considering I walked in the place fearing the worst, ready to cough up $500.
Bob
Craig
If you pull up the handbrake boot (it pops up vertically) you can see the lever. It's metal. I am guessing it could be bent (perhaps heated first) to give more room. Maybe ask the dealer if they would do that for you. I do agree that it has a definite "outward" angle to it.
Craig
The only 'computer' issue you might run into could be the lack of a tire pressure warning transducer if you get your snows mounted on a set of aftermarket rims.
Steve