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They have not officially announced it yet, I know that. But, what I meant by it was that it will most likely be public knowledge before they have an official announcement. I have also heard that the CX-9 might debut at the NYC auto show in '06. If that were the case, we might not see the CX-9 until spring '07. But, I guess we will just have to wait and see.
This was the first time I drove an accord, felt like I was driving my old camry, not exciting like my MZ6.
Sorry, I know this is not the forum for a accord review, but after test driving his car, I realized that my MZ6 wagon pulls to the left more than his car does. This morning on my way to work, I drove in the right lane that has significant road crown and it was pulling to the left. Pulls more to the left while in the left lane. So far it has not annoyed me much, but I think it is something to check on. I have noticed the pull long back, but since I always use the left lane, ignored it thinking that it must be the road crown. The tire pressure is fine, should I get the alignment done? Any suggestions? My wagon is a year old and have put 12K miles on it.
I have not been driving my MZ6 much for last 3 months, my wife won a 2 yr. lease on a ranger and so have been driving it, miss the zoom-zoom.
- Bad alignment
- Subframe out of alignment
Have the alignment checked first. The subframe alignment isn't an uncommon occurence with this car either, caused by it being out of alignment from the factory, or the wrong torque tightness. This is fixed by the dealer loosening and repositioning the subframe assembly.
Good luck...
I had a '93 Probe GT V6 with AT for 10 years and over 180,000 miles with no problems (other than 2 distributor repl.) Bought an '03 M6S AT based on this good experience. Zero problems so far after 40K miles.
Thanks for the info. Mine too was built in April 04 and I bought it in Dec. 04, so was sitting in the lot for 6-7 months. The dealer says if the mileage was below 12K, they would have done the alignment free, I just crossed that mark by 50 miles and it will cost me $69. I will get the alignment done soon and will see if that fixes the problem.
GK
Why not tell the dealer, that you will be taking your business elsewhere? They should try a little harder to keep their customers happy.
I know in my area, there are not many Mazda dealers around, so, driving to another Mazda dealer would be a pain.
Exactly my point. Consider: this car was bought last December, it now has about 12K miles (remarkably low mileage considering a 15K annual average), the client complains about an alignment problem. In response the dealer does what? Nothing. As soon as the car goes off warranty where do you think the servicing will be done? What kind of loyalty can the dealer or Mazda expect with this type of treatment? Fortunately not all dealers are as chintzy as this one.
Katrina in New Orleans. I had done A LOT of research on pricing before I bought the car. The one mistake I made was not researching on possible problems. I was hesitant on buying another Mazda because I had a Mazda 626 a few years ago and had quite a few problems with it but I really liked the new design and pricing, etc. on the Mazda 6 so I bought the car. Right after I got the car I started noticing a humming noise in what I thought was the tires. Then the car starting pulling to the right a lot. Then the real kicker, it started shifting really hard when the car would be idle for a few hours. The worst was on a coldstart and it would shift hard when I would go through the first shift to the point of almost whiplash when I was in bumper to bumper traffic. Finally a week ago, I started looking online and found this website and I started to get worried. I took the car in and received a call from the Tech 3 days later. He was kind of stuttering when he was talking and he said, "I'm sorry to say but you need a new transmission." WHAT! This car only has 4,500 miles on it! So now, amid all the other problems down here, I have to wait at least 3 weeks to get the car back because they have to get a new transmission and the other parts needed to fix my 4 month old car. I'm just hoping that this will do the trick because I really love my car. I've read a lot of the postings and people seem to be having similar problems, I hope this helps. There's also a computer programming recall the tech told me about for those of you who don't know that already. Good Luck to all of you with the same problems. Happy Holidays!
Is the dealership or MazdaUSA providing you with a replacement during the wait? While you're at it why not ask for a brand new car? It may be wise to keep a written record of all of your dealings with the dealership in case you need to take additional action. I would also consider a) an independent garage to check the car once the "fix" is done b) legal advice regarding compensation for the discomfort and danger that you had experienced.
A new pump was ordered and they are installing it on Friday.
For the person asking what type of transmission the car has, it is a four cylinder automatic transmission.
Thanks for posting the details of your issue. I too have a Mazda 6 sedan (4 cyclinder) that I purchased in late summer 2005. The car has 3000 miles on it and I am experiencing very similar issues to the ones you described.
First, airbag warning light is always on so I took my car into the dealer today and they're telling me that they'll have to replace the safety airbag module (some issues with the voltage).
After reading your posting, I immediately called the dealer again. I too have noticed that the car veers to the right. I told the service guy this when I dropped off my car earlier today. He said it was meant that way so if I doze off, then the car will veer towards the sidewalk and not into oncoming traffic (yeah, like I believed that!). Next, I too notice very abrubt and jolting shifts in my automatic transmission. I notice this in the mornings when the car shifts from 1st to 2nd gear. Finally, I have also noticed a humming noise. I was not the one to pinpoint this issue. When my brother was in the car with me, he told me that the humming was not normal.
I would like to know more details and information about what happened with your car and your transmission. Also, you mentioned that you visited a website that gave you some more details about the issues. Do you have the link and could you send it to me please?
Thanks
Sargon Benjamin
I had a problem with very hard 1-2 shift when cold. Dealer repeatedly said this was normal. They said there was a software change to transmission but it was for '04 models and mine should already have the latest program. During summer months and warm weather all was fine. With onset of cold weather the extreme hard shift returned. This time I forced dealer to drive. Bottm line they said I had indeed had the 'older program' after all and (my understanding) reflashed the transmission to new program. This fixed the problem. I now just wonder if all those hard shifts caused any long term damage or premature wear.
My suggestion for anyone similar - insist that the dealer verify program version to make sure latest and not just assume based on model year.
They replaced the fuel pump the Friday before Christmas, and so far, no problems. Of course, I've only put about 100 miles on it since then. If the whining noise returns, I'll let you know.
The rear bumper (silver color) got rubbed against the left front of a maroon civic, so there's light maroon color in the scratched area too.
Any advice on how to remove this color and scratches is greatly appreciated.
GK
Interesting and likely the price you'll pay at other Mazda dealers. In September I decided to get some idea of the approximate cost of replacing the pads and rotors for my Mazda Protege5. Since my brakes were approaching 4 years I was investigating ahead of time to prepare myself for the price shock. Here is what I found:
I called three local Mazda dealerships (we actually have 4 but I decided against torturing the receptionist with my poor French).
All the dealers came in about the same price at roughly C$725 + tax (nearly U$600 before tax) to replace front and rear brake pads and rotors. The kicker is that some used aftermarket rather than Mazda OEM parts but charged the same total! Of course, they assured me that aftermarket were still good. One of the dealers quoted the aftermarket rotors at C$49 each compared to the OEM at C$90 each.
To give you an idea of the price breakdown here is the best case using Mazda parts. The total worked out to C$725.
C$ 95 = 2 Front pads
C$133 = 2 Front rotors
C$158 = Labour
C$390 = Total Parts and Labour for Front Brakes
C$ 70 = 2 Rear pads
C$168 = 2 Rear rotors
C$ 95 = Labour
C$336 = Total Parts and Labour for Rear Brakes
Regarding the labour, all quoted 3 hours to do the job; roughly half for the front and half for the back.
When I asked one of the dealer reps about the need to replace rotors, he strongly recommended it. He claimed that was because the rotors are "porous" and resurfacing them will not be effective in the long term, "I guarantee you that within a couple of months you'll be back to get new rotors".
The fresh air setting will always be warmer than the outside air after your car is warmed up. It has to do with the underhood heat and how the air hose is routed. I have 2 Mazda 6's and a Protege and it is the same on all of them.
My car was stalling at idle but would start back up and I could get home. One day it just would not start. I checked for spark using the method of placing a sparkplug in spark plug wire and grounding the spark plug. The spark was very week and yellow. The manual told me to check the coil and I did. Turns out the coil was not good according to the manual. I was able to get a new coil and put it in the distributor. Still would not start. I took it to a mazda specialist and he put it on the diognostic machine is it showed spark and fuel but the timing might be off. He would have to put on a new timing belt then go from there for a nice fee of $750 bucks. NOT. So I brought the car home and put in a new timeing belt and belt tensioner. Like fool I did not specifically look to see if the timeing was off or not. Even so the timeing is on the money now. Still no start. Next I had my electronics genious over to help. He put the ignition system through many tests. Coil sparks but Ignition Control Module ( ignitor or ICM) did not seem to be working. I could not buy an ICM separately so had to buy a distributor for over $300 bucks. Thought the car would start up. NOT still no spark. Go figure. The starter relay clicks when the ignition is turned on so it is good. No checkengine lights of flashing of the check engine light for a code signal.
Can anyone suggest or help me? I am lost. I really like the car and have 150MI on it and the motor is still strong.
HELP!!!!
Regards
trkynk
One more thing... Even though the Milan is on the same platform, it's still a new car, and could very well have first-year issues as well. Just a thought...
Good luck with whatever vehicle you choose, but trust me, you won't regret the 6! :shades:
it's a wonderfull car, it's well balanced and mazda modified the 2006. the seats are new(borrowed from volvo), suspension has been upgrade, interior noise is better, the front disk are bigger and fade resistant, I just change a volvo s60 2002 for this mazda6 ...i'm telling you this car is better. I wouldn't recommand the 6cyl. it's an old engine, it will be replace from a global ford engine 3.5liters 270 hp probably next year. The 4 cyl does 40mpg!!! with an above average performance from 4 cyl. You get 0-60 in 8.2, while an Acura TSX 7.9 (cost 5000$ more)
the trunk of the mazda6 hatchback is the biggest of all the sedans!!! <img src="
Where did you recieve that information? As well at new suspention?
I don't know how you are ac heaving THAT number? I have a 2005 Mazda6 i Hatchback 5-speed, and on the highway, I'm lucky to hit 30mpg.
And the 0-60 on an Acura TSX is 7.2, not 7.9. Read Feb. issue of C&D. Also, 9.4 for the Mazda6 i according to MSN autos.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere