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I purchased a 2006 Mazda6 Grand Touring with 18 inch wheels and have been having the same problem since I bought it in July of 06. Is your model the fully loaded, BOSE, leather...etc model? I had my car in the dealership the very next day after I picked it up for an alignment. They said it was all fixed. It still pulled. Then they said it was the Perelli tires and I had to contact a dealership for the tires, which I did. The tire dealership said the tires were fine. Then the Mazda Dealership had my car for 3 weeks trying to figure out what was wrong with it. They said it was in the suspension and that it was fixed. My car still pulls. I have contacted my attorney and plan on pursuing the lemon law against Mazda. I am not paying for a car that pulls to the right as bad as mine does. NO WAY! I also had my check engine light come on after only 8k miles. I took it to the dealership and they said my ignition coil was worn. WORN? Geeze, I don't want to keep this car any longer to see what happens at 20k. Regardless of it is a recall, they have ONE chance to get the steering right under the Lemon Law, once that chance is up, as a consumer you have the right to sue the Corporation. Look it up.
However, the New Year brings me back to an ugly reality: The carpet has been cleaned, and, I'm informed, the milk smell is no longer in the carpet. Unfortunately, the guy who did the work tells me the car itself still smells like milk -- an indication that the smell got into the fabric upholstery. He recommends some detailing work to get the smell out (he's just a carpet guy).
So, I'm thinking of taking it to a detailer, but not going all-in for the shampooing of the carpet, which doesn't need to be done at this point.
My question: How likely is it that this smell will actually come out? Should I just save my $180, or whatever, and learn to live with the hideous odor?
Why don't you get another nose in there, and see what they say about the smell...if it smells bad to them, and if it does, if they can identify where the smell is. I'm not buying the idea of the smell "getting into" the upholstery.
Was the carpet taken up completely?
Reminds me of that episode of Seinfeld with the smell he couldn't get rid of in his BMW. (just kidding)
Does anyone have any recommendations of rear mount bike racks that will go under the rear wing spoiler?
Thanks!
As for the carpet, it doesn't smell. I've put my nose right up to it. And I believe the cleaner's account. He told me he pulled the rug, cleaned it, replaced the saturated padding underneath, and still had to use warm water to break up and extract congealed milk in the flooring of the vehicle!
All in all, I feel like he did good work. The smell has dissipated considerably. He suggested just letting the car air out for a day or two, but with the colder temperatures, and no garage at my home, that's difficult for now.
I'll set the ACC to 72 to get cold air. It works great as I'm driving. However, sometimes, when I come to a stop, the ACC will blow HOT air. Once I start driving again the air gets cold again. The dealer says I need to spend $56 on a cabin air filter to fix the problem. I think this is BS because I only have 14,000 miles on the car and the filter can't possible need to be replaced. And why would that cause this type of issue anyway? Does anyone know what might cause this...or have any suggestions? :mad:
Will that solve your problem? Probably not, but it may be a good idea to change it anyway. At least try it and see what happens.
As for the ACC, if it continues to blow out hot air, I'd have them check to see if your compressor has a slow leak and/or needs to be recharged.
Anybody here have any problems getting service under the extended warranty or have any suggestions on getting resolution to this.
Thanks ....
Yes, I had exactly the same problem with my Mazda 6 a few months ago. In addition, you might have also noticed that the fan works constantly (or at least a lot more than what you would expect it to work). In my case, the fan used to work about a minute after I turned off the car. And, as you mentioned, the AC would run hot when I was stopping. Unfortunately, since the problem was solved under warranty, they didn't tell me what it was exactly (or I didn't care). But I know they replaced a controller of some sorts. I just know it had something to do with the fan.
Hope it helps...
Anyway, the thing is that even though the dealer believes he knows what the problem is (he claims that a grommet in the firewall was out - I'm not sure I believe it), MAZDA will not cover the problem under warranty!!!. They claim that the fix is called an "Adjustment" that is only covered for 12 months instead of the normal warranty.
Please visit my blog if you want to read more about this story (http://mazdasucks.blogspot.com)
It kept pulling to the nearside on a flat road, the dealer ship told me everything was OK. I would not accept this being an ex Police vehicle examiner. I took my car for a full computer geomtry examination.The settings were at the extreme but within Mazda's tolerances.I requested my car be set up as close as posible to the centre of the tolerance.
Afterwards my car drove completely different, I have not had a problem since. Regarding the bill of £80 I sent this Mazda direct and they paid it.One other point get rid of those Bridgestone tyres, they wear out quickly and give out extreme tyre noise, try Michelin or Goodyear.
Thanks, everybody. In case it wasn't clear from my earlier posts, the guy I took it to is indeed a carpet guy, who removed the entire carpet, and all the padding. He said the milk had congealed *underneath* the padding as well, and that he'd poured warm water into the flooring to break it up, sucking everything out with a shop-vac.
The slight smell that lingered would, he thought, go away as the car aired out. I bought a Yankee Candle vanilla air freshener, and some Febreeze auto spray, which I sprayed on the seats.
Then I waited.
I've since had four people ride in the car with me. All of them have noted the air-freshener smell. None of them has indicated that there's any objectionable odor in the car.
I'm breathing a huge sigh of relief. I've been running the heat in the car, and the smell hasn't re-materialized. It's gotten cold again, and I suppose the summer heat could bring the smell back, but frankly, I doubt it.
One last thing: I now transport our two weekly gallons of raw milk in a box, so the jars no longer tip.
Anyone has similar experiences?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-6-03-04-05-06-Left-Headlight-Driver-Side-Ma- - zda6_W0QQitemZ170077512924QQihZ007QQcategoryZ33710QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thanks Fustrated
Typically after warranty we have taken our cars to an independent repair shop that we trust, mostly as a matter of of convenience, since we work near the shop and the Mazda dealer is about 20 miles away. My question is this the type of issue better handled by the dealer or should an independent shop be able to handle it?
One related comment a couple of years ago under warranty the check engine light came on and the dealer re flashed the program in the module (I think it was a recall) so I assume that is not the problem.
Another idea is to call the shop and find out. Given the amount of electronics in today's cars, I expect they'll be able to handle it.
For the next time my wife leaves the gas cap loose is there anyway for me to reset the light?
My own experience is different. I accidentally left my gas cap loose and got the check engine light. I tightened it, and several trips later the light went off. But then it came on again once the tank got low. I filled up, and the light went out, only to come on again when the tank got low. Another fill-up turned the light off again, but then it came back on while the tank was still full. When I took it to the dealer, they told me that I needed to have an Actuator Valve replaced (under warranty). The light hasn't come back on since then.
I have a Speed 6, so things might be different, but I can't imagine that your light wouldn't automatically reset itself. Eventually.
Not specifically WRT a Mazda, but I've been told in the past that some codes will reset, if the problem goes away and some do not. What I was told is some are what are called "hard codes" and will not reset on their own. One do-it-yourself method of resetting those is to disconnect the battery for a period of time.
Does not seem likely that a problem related to a loose gas cap would be a "hard code", though.
You can reset the light by disconnecting the battery, but you'll lose all your radio presets as well. The bigger problems is that the CEL may not be a loose gas cap, but a bigger problem that should be diagnosed and fixed, instead of just tightening the cap.
If the light activates again, take it to an Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. They've got equipment that'll find the code for you, and reset it if necessary. Just makes sure they have a CAN-compatible scanner.
I was a regular of my forum in my early ownership of this car, and it was instrumental in getting Mazda to correct some very major issues with my car early on (clutch judder, squealing brakes, etc.). Now I am in a later stage of issues (beyond 50K miles), and I again turn to this forum for help. I love my Mazda 6, and I intend to keep it for a long time, however, now I seem to be experiencing some major issues again.
My little 6 now will intermittently not start, and the headlights were flickering on and off. I had the battery checked, and it checked out fine at a local trusted retailer (who sells batteries!).
I took it to the dealer (where "intermittent" means "crazy chick") who proceeded to spend 3 hours diagnosing with no answer other than that I had a burned out bulb, and that the battery was "bad". When I asked them why the battery was bad, when it had checked out fine in a shop that makes a living selling batteries, they said that according to the special Mazda test, it failed.
Anyway, here I am with a new battery and $300 poorer, and the car still does not start intermittently, and one of the headlights is out again. If the car will not start, I just have to keep trying (take the key out, put it back in, sometimes rubbing it superstitiously on a piece of clothing) and it will turn over.
Any thoughts? Does this sound familiar to anyone?
Khana
You could either return it to the dealer, insisting that the problem isn't fixed, and hope that they find the short and refund you the price of an unnecessary battery, or take it to a shop that specializes in electrical work (or any good repair shop IMO), and explain them the problem in detail.
Good luck.
When you say it will not start can you be more specific? Does it turn over and not start or does it not crank at all? You answer will dictate possible problems.
When I turn the key, nothing happens...
Khana
Thanks!
Khana