Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Drive it till it drops ?
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I seriously doubt any of these cars are worth restoring to original anymore.
I saw some cool old planes as well including DC-3s and C-46s as well as a parked flight of P-51s that belonged to the Paraguayan AF.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The P51 is probably mostly for airshows and maybe strafing narcorebels.
Who knows.
It's been well maintained and driven easily. In it's life, we've changed the fluids regularly--all fluids, though the PS fluid wasn't looking so hot today. We've used synthetic oil every 5k except for a stray Jiffy Lube trip when we ran short on time. I've needed a set of plat plugs, a PVC (needed?), front brake shoes, 2.5 sets of tires, two timing belts, and a water pump (first T belt at around 100k and the second when the pump started making a little noise-- should have done the pump the first time!). I also just had to replace a couple of bulbs.
There's no rust. It doesn't burn any oil or need any at oil change time, although the oil does come out a little dirtier than I remember it coming out when it was new. Seats sag just a little more than they used to and there is a slight tear (1/2) in one of the door panels. I'm not surprised how well the car has held up, as the 160k have been fairly easy mostly interstate miles. I am a little surprised how well the body and especially the interior have handled the years and miles.
At this point, I'm in drive it til it drops mode. I'm really curious how many miles I can get. There are certainly many vehicles I'd rather have. This auto tranny 4 cyl Camry is far from exciting. But given the cost of replacing the car with something comparable, I could replace the engine or rebuild the tranny and still feel way ahead of the ball game. The engine has never thrown a code. There is no ABS on this car. If an airbag has a problem, I'll probably just ignore it. I expect to have to replace struts or other front suspension components soon.
The car has been absolutely reliable. Never a no start and never died. I trust the car, and know a little about maintenance so that things usually don't sneak up on me. I'll probably take it in a few weeks for a long trip (approx 1600 miles). I see friends with new cars having far more repairs than I have maintenance. We haven't had a payment on this thing since 1997. The miles are really cheap now, so it just doesn't make sense at this point.
certain older cars also were so well-suited for their purpose, they never stop drawing attention, as well.
just because it's old doesn't mean it's automatically useless.
A P51 in good shape in America is worth a fortune.
Probably a good guideline for whether you should drive it til it drops is whether or not your monthly outlays on the old car is anything close to new car payments.
In countries like that the AF is mainly for close support of the army.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The only worry will be whether the boredom will kill you!
I wonder if you still maintain collision insurance on it, given its age and reduced value now...if you only insure it for comp and liability, that is some more $$ you can save each year vs a new car.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My yearly outlay isn't anything close to a new car payment. I do fluids fairly often but I don't count the cost because I do it on any car. In the last year I put on front pads and the water pump and timing belt. Labor is next to nothing because I have a factory tech friend to do them. (This helps tremendously and I realize that the equation would be different absent this friend.)
>The only worry will be whether the boredom will kill you!
It's impossible to love a Toyota, I'm convinced. (My corollary: It hurts to love VW's, I know for sure.)
>maintain collision insurance on it...
No, I don't.
Same for belts, hoses.
Any tow truck driver will tell you that most breakdowns are due to relatively minor items that smoetimes cause major problems.
I suspect a foul winding in the starter, particularly since there is no indication of voltage drop on the battery, and just went through a battery load check at my last oil change and all is OK. other possibilities could include a funny ground or hot connection to the starter motor, a dying relay, aliens, and sabotage by Saddam. the battery terminals themselves are clean and tight.
getting it three times a week now. when I can get a second symptom, I'm moving forward on it. the point is, not all the "cannot start" issues are battery.
I would be really torqued if it turns out there is a flaky interconnect between cells, though, because that is yet another possibility here.
My experience with Motorcraft original batteries is over three years, but never make it to four. If it weren't for generalizations and anecdotes, where would we be?
Read recently in CR that many new car batteries are going ten years now...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
the sears battery I replaced the ranger's with went another 7 years until I traded.
clever how that works, seeing as how the motorcraft and sears batteries are both made by johnson controls... but there are always levels of crafting that you can specify on batteries, tires, and stuff like that when you buy in freight-train lots.
just another thing to watch.
So sure, under ideal condition you will get more than 4 years. It's just an average for you to evaluate against your own situation/car/climate/habits.
I think the gel batteries would last longer but I don't see why the regular batteries of today are any different from 5 years ago.
And LAST OF ALL, not all batteries are equal to begin with. Some are rather cheaply built.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
in particular, they purely hate running warmer than 75 fahrenheit, the life of the battery really dives above 85 degrees. there are maximum current ratings that really need to be heeded on any particular draw to avoid drying parts of the electrolyte or damaging the plates or separator with local heating.
the technology is the very same in the "spiral" type batteries sold for automotive service as in the standby-power batteries I know well, so the caveats are the same. they just don't add up for auto service IMHO.
I have been in battery stores getting more stuff for geegaws and electronic stuff, and folks are just exchanging those spiral cells every few weeks for another one on warranty.
that ain't going in MY truck, I can tell you that.
where the gel batteries are excellent are in defined-drain situations like standby power, where you can't have spills or fumes from free-acid batteries due to hazard or environmental concerns (like the living room, right down where the cat and baby crawl,) and they are more vibration-resistant than cast plate wet batteries. if you derate and massively overdesign a gel battery, they will work well in extremes of temperature and pressure, like spacecraft and space stations. but in those applications, you have the bulk and weight of a tractor battery for the power in a motorcycle battery.
I have yet to stretch a UPS gel battery past two and a half years with occasional power-blip UPS operation, and we had a 240-volt stack of 'em in a prior job die in 4 months because the temperature was in the 80s in that room on a regular basis.
I have heard though that high temp and gel batteries don't get along, which is perhaps why Miata puts it in the trunk rather than engine compartment.
My battery on my Benz diesel is approaching 4 years, and it's out of there when it hits the magic number.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
many of the folks who went into that plant on a cleanup job came out real sick, and that with respirators on. sounds like swimming in the slag ponds by gold mines, I am thinking particularly of Homestake Mining in Lead, SD... those pools are cyanide in water, you know.
however, the fact remains that the lead-lead sulfate battery ( aka lead acid ) is still the only economical system suitable for the rough and tumble of automotive service.
wonderful. the good news is, it's much better in the battery assembly plants... at least ours. I would still prefer to work in computers, telecom, or flipping burgers than in one of those plants, however.
In this modern technological world one must be constantly vigilant as to the environment you will be introduced to on a daily basis.
But,it was a good way to pay the bills. LOL
Now 80GB fits in your hand and is in every low-end PC.
Got a problem, swap the whole unit. Once the molecular stuff hits the market it will become; got a problem, swap the whole node.
The amount of dust and airborne particles generated by those mailbags was unbelievable. Had I known then what I know now I'd have worn a mask. You could actually feel the junk in your nose and throat after a shift.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
as a kid, I also remember long, pointed, foul tirades against Scotch 100 recording tape... rust on paper... because when you rewound the tape decks of the day in a radio station, you had a blizzard of paper dust in the air whenever the tape broke. usually in the middle of an interview that was being edited. there was one late afternoon or early evening when Dad ripped one loose that would make a chief petty officer blush. that was the very late 1950s, and ended the "100 era," management support for a case of 111 tape was forthcoming. must have been an important interview that got lost.
it is useful to know the past. it is very nice to not have 6SN7 tube based computers with 3-phase power. I do go back to 3-phase but not to tubes.
how would you like to have to diagnose car electronics with, say, 6CW4 ceramic tubes? just like the electric cars, you couldn't afford to change out that module...
here's the real killer... I'm only 50. by the time I'm 60, there will be gasping incredulity about our antique roadsters of today.
One day, I watched them "rebuild" them.
They would turn them upside down on a rack to drain the acid. God only knows what they did with the acid...probably into the storm system...
Then they would beat in the bottoms of the batteries to dislodge (?)the crud that was maybe causing the plates to short out.
They would clean up the battery, wipe it down with something that made it shine, fill it with fresh acid, charge it up and slap a sticker on it.
Presto! It was "rebuilt" and ready to sell!
I think the 6 volts (I know...don't say it) were something like 7.95 and the 12 volts were 10.95.
They were just gambling they would make it through the 90 day warranty period.
I remember most of their customers were the guys who operated the sleazy used car lots.
like to have died. they were the real mccoy. one pinhead on a rampage and stuff surely would have happened. might as well have put little tin buckets full of kerosene in the restrooms with chunks of sodium metal at the bottom as another "safety" measure