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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    come to think about it... think my car is haunted?!
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    just read here somewhere that a bad battery can burn the alternator! I hope I didn't do that on my car, because that new window did work a tad and stopped! With a burnt alternator, the car could drain out the battery fast, right? yikes :(
  • q45manq45man Posts: 416
    Obviously you owners haven't spent the mandantory 2 weeks [80 hours] reading and studying [every page of] the $300 factory service manuals for your cars.
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    I think "possessed" by evil spirits was what I was telling my mechanic. I'm not sure why you say the convienence modual does not control the drivers window. That was, in fact, the window I had problems with and replacing it did fix the problem. ........ I'd go out an test the windows and report back, but we sold that E300 years ago. @!$%** thing was costing me $2000-%2500 a year to keep it running and it only had 75,000 miles on it when we got rid of it.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    what I meant was, that module does control all windows on the car, except right now when I use it, all windows work except for the front driver side.
  • dchutedchute Posts: 3
    HELP! I'm looking for anyone out there that has had a similar problem with their 2000 E320. We are at our wits end! We have had 3 racks, one steering fluid pump and several boots and bushings replaced and still have the same rubbing noise when turning R or L. The dealer tells us that this is a "cronic" problem with all 2000 E class cars and that Mercedes is working on it. It is back in the shop today with orders not to return it until they can guarantee that it is fixed. If this is such a "big" problem then where are the rest of the complaints? Where are you! I think this is a hoax to keep us from pursuing "Lemon Law" action.

    Any insite would be most helpfull.
  • I usually follow the full size SUV boards and haven't read these posts before. Wow. This is nuts. You really have to pay some heavy dues to put up with one of these. Sure, maybe most of this stuff is fixed under warranty. But what about the opportunity costs involved in taking the car in, dropping it off, etc. etc. At least with a Bimmer you get a serving of performance with your ration of German headaches.

    Maybe the E Series-Set should consider buying what the people who work for them drive and lead happier, simpler lives? I mean it won't impress a 21 year old valet with a green card, but something with an American made, cast iron V8 that will run like a thief to 100K before it needs new coolant, plugs, etc. isn't to be sneered at.
  • dchutedchute Posts: 3
    I would like to know why you had to have your rack replaced in the first place. We have had our rack replaced 3 times and we are in for the 4th. Dealer states that MB is aware of the problem and has processed a new TSB on the problem and has sent out new tools for the fix. However, our dealer failed to receive the new tools so they have our car for the next millenium until it is fixed. Would like to knoiw your origional problem.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    how do you lube the windows? thanks
  • ralphb3ralphb3 Posts: 1
    Re your chronic steering rack/system problem, this goes back to 1996. I have a '96 E and after numerous complaints of loud noises and stiff steering, MB dealer finally replaced rack, bushings, pwr steering pump, etc., etc. This is similar to the chronic rear and front light bulb assemblies that continued on from '96 through '98-'99 model years. Unless you make the dealer aware that YOU are aware of the TSDBs, they will continue to band-aid the problems than properly fix the problems once and for all.
  • rcf8000rcf8000 Posts: 619
    The kinds of electrical problems you guys are describing are not unique to the E class. My brother has a new CL600 that has had a lot of the same electrical gremlins. The worst one was when he got back from a 10 day trip and found the battery dead. The dealer had no idea as to what caused that. The CL600 is an awesome car--I recently drove it--but the electrical system is awesome in a negative sense.
  • mb2003mb2003 Posts: 7
    To: pvh3 & donk7,

    my 2003 E320 Sport also experienced the same radio problem... after some static, it shuts. This happens very infrequently.

    when you get yours fixed, please post the solution in detail.

  • donk7donk7 Posts: 4
    Well, after the last attempted repairs to fix the radio, I was confident it was "fixed". Almost 2 weeks went by without a repeat performance. However, it just happened again!!!! Crackling noise which starts and builds and sound pops off for a few seconds. Back to the drawing boards...
    Also, has anyone else experienced an annoying squeaking noise from the brake pedal?? Sounds like a wet tennis shoe when the brake pedal is pressed. Mine has come and gone a couple of times. Dealer seems perplexed on this one too. Help!
  • mb2003mb2003 Posts: 7

    the brakes on mine doesn't make the noise you mentioned. However, as MortorTrend puts it, it is difficult to modulate the brakes to stop in linear/smooth fashion.

    perhaps there's a fix for this?
  • dchutedchute Posts: 3
    I'm not sure that there is a TSB on this problem. The dealer has told us there is but I would sure like to see it. Alldata does not list any TSB for the 2000 E Class regarding the steering. Electrical problems yes, but not the steering. Plus we are going on the 4th rack, pump,bushing, etc. package in 3 years. I have other friends with 2000 E CLass cars and they have had no such problems. No one in this discussion has talked about this problem either, only the cronic electrical problems. I would think if this was such a "cronic" PROBLEM YOU ALL WOULD BE CHATTING ABOUT IT1
  • hbleehblee Posts: 1
    My previous car was a '83 MB 300SD with 300,000 miles on it. I replaced in in 1999 for a '98 E-320. I have already spent more money on repairs that the entire 18 years that I owned 330SD. Newer is NOT better. Now my engine is dying while I idle on a warm day. Nothing more humiliating than to have a conked-out E-320 in the middle of a crosswalk. Folks must really had a treat to watch this old fart pushing a silver MB in his Allen-Edmunds and a tie....sheesh.After replacing the rear window motor, water pump, electrical system, and air conditioning condenser, I think I better try a Lexus - after I spend another $700.00+ or so to fix my current problem. "ain't what it used to be" - that's for sure.
  • fintailfintail Posts: 32,909
    Sell it, and if you need an E class, buy an immaculate 124 for 1/4th-1/5th the price (or 1/2 if you opt for a factory fresh E500/500E) and enjoy....
  • I have a 1995 E 320 with the reputedly "bulletproof" M104 engine and about 85,000 miles on the clock. Last weekend it very suddenly started sounding like a diesel. I took it to my local Benz guy and everyone agrees I have a hydraulic lifter that is not pumping up. A very rare problem for this engine, from what I hear.

    The problem is trying to figure out *which* lifter has the problem. I can replace *all* of them, but remember this is a 24-valve engine, hence 24 lifters at around $50 each. And my technician reminds me that one of the camshafts has the variable timing mechanism making it a much more expensive proposition to remove and replace. If we were sure that the bad lifter was under the other camshaft, even it we could just isolate it to that side, it will be a much easier job.

    He took off the valve cover and checked the clearance under each cam, and pressed down on each lifter to see if one sank faster than the others. All 24 of them behave exactly the same.

    Does anyone out there have any interesting tricks for identifying which lifter is ticking, at least narrowing it down to either the intake or the exhaust bank?

  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    Make sure that a correct fresh oil filter is being used and all its associated o-rings are in place. Try out an engine oil flush and run the engine on Mobil1 0w-30 oil for a few hundred miles. If that doesn't cure it, use a mechanics stethoscope on a cold engine start to localize the noise to at least the cylinder whoe lifter(s) may be noisy. Good Luck.
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