I want to purchase a 2012 used Escape for college daughter. V-6. I really don't like the new 2013 body style all mfgs. of this size SUV are changing to. Seems prices are 3-5K less in DFW than in my near Nashville TN location so I'd travel to buy near my Dad in TX.
Would it be best to wait until June/July since 2014's would be around the corner and then it would be a 2 year old used vehicle instead of 1. Also looking for less than 10K miles.
Any good strategies? Ford Certified? Carfax? We bought her a used 2001 when she was in high school so we like the car and have owned an Explorer and two Expeditions . . . but her 2001 has way too many miles for traveling back and forth from college to home @ 250 or so miles one way.
Thanks in advance . . . .oh and of course she wants Blue Steel which makes my search a little more focused and narrowed.
You have some pretty defined criteria. 2012, V6, Steel Blue, under 10k miles. If you can find one near DFW, I would go for that. By the time the 2014's are out, chances of finding one under 10k will really narrow your options. The used car market can change in a hurry, too. We have an '04, '09 and '13.
Thanks for the reply. I lost this board location and just re-found it today. So sorry for my delay in thanking you for the reply.
Yes, but I'm thinking IF I'm finding them now for sale with less than 10K miles, these might be ones that were actually purchased in fall of 2011 and so ones that come on the market in June/July might be ones that were purchased towards the end of the model year.
While this is what daughter wants, I'm thinking today, in how I won't buy a car the first year it is out . . . I'm wondering IF it is wise to buy a car the last year it is out . . . while it isn't really the last year, the body style has undergone a major change, and one I don't like. So for long term, is it a good idea to buy the OLD version . . . although I think IF we do buy this for her, she will continue to drive it for the remaining 3 years of college and maybe an extra year or two if she pursues an advanced degree and maybe even a few more years as she begins her career. We drive our cars a long time in our family.
I'm not even sure what else we might look at as all mid sized SUV's seem to be or have changed their bodystyles to this crossover look.
I just happened to see your reply. There are no guarantees when it comes to any vehicle, although you might have a warranty and on a newer vehicle you can buy an extended warranty. You still have to pay for maintenance, which can cost some money. Based on 2013, we have vehicles that are 22, 11, 9, 4 and a couple newer ones.
Hi everyone, new to this forum and ready to buy a Ford Escape SE FWD tomorrow hopefully. I've never negotiated for a car before and so I just want to make sure I'm not getting screwed over. I've done a lot of research and looked around and I don't think I am but you never know!
Anyway the car I'm buying is as follows:
Ford Escape SE FWD 1.6 EcoBoost engine Roof Rails/Cross bars SYNC® with MyFord Touch® (dual USB ports, RCA inputs and SD card reader) Dual zone electronic, auto temp control Power liftgate White platinum tri-coat paint 18" polish alum wheels Asked them to throw in all weather floor mats
  The MSRP is $28,820
The sale price of the car on the lot was $24,995 including discounts and they took another $300 off bringing it down to $24,667. State and local taxes are $1499 and doc fee is $299. I think they said I could get another $1,000 off with Ford Mortor Credit financing but I'm paying cash so hopefully that won't affect this quote. I may trade in my car if they give me enough but not sure...Just want to know what you think of the car with these options. Is this an ok deal or should I try to negotiate more? Thank you in advance!
we were turned down from Nissan on a lease. Is Ford more lenient than Nissan? or would we be wasting our time pursuing an Escape lease (we're in Southern Cal)
Seems many people continue to believe car dealers will offer a better deal if one pays cash. The opposite is usually true. All sales are cash to a dealer, cash from the buyer or from the finance company.
In reality dealers see finance as an option to increase back end profit, profit in the F&I office. Finance usually provides the dealer with a reserve, which is part of the finance charges paid. In addition, dealers see people who finance as more likely to purchase products in the F&I office which provides even more profit.
Even if a person wants to pay cash, it is often better to let the dealer think the deal will be financed. If the dealer thinks it can make profit in the F&I office, the dealer might be willing to sell at a lower price. Once the price is agreed upon the dealer cannot legally change that price if the buyer decides not to finance.
In any case, there are no pre-payment penalties in most auto loans so the cash buyer can finance and then pay off the loan immediately. Interest, at 4 percent, on a $30,000 loan would only be about $3 a day.
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Either way the purchase is financed, through Ford or some other lender. The difference is if you can get a lower rate using a lender other than Ford, you can take the 1K Ford cash, then refinance at a lower rate from the other lender after that. That will save you some money.
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Of course. Recently bought my daughter a new Escape. Took the Ford incentive and let the dealer finance through a bank. Dealer got a rate lower than I was quoted by the same bank. Dealers often have access to lower rates which they can offer to select buyers. Guess up I was a select buyer.
Comments
Would it be best to wait until June/July since 2014's would be around the corner and then it would be a 2 year old used vehicle instead of 1. Also looking for less than 10K miles.
Any good strategies? Ford Certified? Carfax? We bought her a used 2001 when she was in high school so we like the car and have owned an Explorer and two Expeditions . . . but her 2001 has way too many miles for traveling back and forth from college to home @ 250 or so miles one way.
Thanks in advance . . . .oh and of course she wants Blue Steel which makes my search a little more focused and narrowed.
2012, V6, Steel Blue, under 10k miles.
If you can find one near DFW, I would go for that.
By the time the 2014's are out, chances of finding one under 10k will really narrow your options.
The used car market can change in a hurry, too.
We have an '04, '09 and '13.
Yes, but I'm thinking IF I'm finding them now for sale with less than 10K miles, these might be ones that were actually purchased in fall of 2011 and so ones that come on the market in June/July might be ones that were purchased towards the end of the model year.
While this is what daughter wants, I'm thinking today, in how I won't buy a car the first year it is out . . . I'm wondering IF it is wise to buy a car the last year it is out . . . while it isn't really the last year, the body style has undergone a major change, and one I don't like. So for long term, is it a good idea to buy the OLD version . . . although I think IF we do buy this for her, she will continue to drive it for the remaining 3 years of college and maybe an extra year or two if she pursues an advanced degree and maybe even a few more years as she begins her career. We drive our cars a long time in our family.
I'm not even sure what else we might look at as all mid sized SUV's seem to be or have changed their bodystyles to this crossover look.
There are no guarantees when it comes to any vehicle, although you might have a warranty and on a newer vehicle you can buy an extended warranty.
You still have to pay for maintenance, which can cost some money.
Based on 2013, we have vehicles that are 22, 11, 9, 4 and a couple newer ones.
Anyway the car I'm buying is as follows:
Ford Escape SE
FWD
1.6 EcoBoost engine
Roof Rails/Cross bars
SYNC® with MyFord Touch® (dual USB ports, RCA inputs and SD card reader)
Dual zone electronic, auto temp control
Power liftgate
White platinum tri-coat paint
18" polish alum wheels
Asked them to throw in all weather floor mats
 
The MSRP is $28,820
The sale price of the car on the lot was $24,995 including discounts and they took another $300 off bringing it down to $24,667. State and local taxes are $1499 and doc fee is $299. I think they said I could get another $1,000 off with Ford Mortor Credit financing but I'm paying cash so hopefully that won't affect this quote. I may trade in my car if they give me enough but not sure...Just want to know what you think of the car with these options. Is this an ok deal or should I try to negotiate more? Thank you in advance!
Maybe a $150 interest in a month?
In reality dealers see finance as an option to increase back end profit, profit in the F&I office. Finance usually provides the dealer with a reserve, which is part of the finance charges paid. In addition, dealers see people who finance as more likely to purchase products in the F&I office which provides even more profit.
Even if a person wants to pay cash, it is often better to let the dealer think the deal will be financed. If the dealer thinks it can make profit in the F&I office, the dealer might be willing to sell at a lower price. Once the price is agreed upon the dealer cannot legally change that price if the buyer decides not to finance.
In any case, there are no pre-payment penalties in most auto loans so the cash buyer can finance and then pay off the loan immediately. Interest, at 4 percent, on a $30,000 loan would only be about $3 a day.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
The difference is if you can get a lower rate using a lender other than Ford, you can take the 1K Ford cash, then refinance at a lower rate from the other lender after that.
That will save you some money.
2.0L
panoramic roof
Nav
Cross bars
19" wheels
Tonneau
$31K before the additiona tax, tag, and junk in Atlanta