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Had a 2004 745i. Loved it, lost it due to corp. reorg. Just bought a 2001 740iL w Spt Wheels. Very nice car. Has 55,000 miles, I purchased the EZ Cap to run till 2010 plus another 20,000 miles for $2000. I now drive about 3-4k miles a year, so I believe I got good value for the extended warranty. I purchased the car for $28k w 55k miles - again, I believe a good value. Some minor signs of wear on the driver front seats. Wondering if I can find a OEM heated seat as replacement or if too expensive is it realistic to have a leather shop re dye (Black)?
Anyone have experience with re working leather upholstery on these cars?
thanks
What do you mean "reworking" the leather? You mean revitalizing or replacing?
I did some checking around. Apparently there are specialty shops that recondition worn leather seats. They can clean, strip, and re dye to original color, fix cigarette burns, cracking etc.
One shop said that most of the time, it is staining that has embedded into the grain. Deep cleaning and a re dye typically is sufficient to restore if no tears.
Planning on doing it. Will let everyone know the result.
Still probably a lot cheaper than the alternative....gulp.
BTW it takes 5 cows to cover a car like that. I read that somewhere
Does anyone have an idea of what might be causing this? Thanks!
Josh! HELP
I just don't see the point in buying a car like these with these sorts of needs. You aren't going to end up paying any less in the long run .
Obviously the previous owner got an estimate and is bailing out.
Sure, brakes could run you $1,200-$1,800, and the heater core requires a LOT of shop time, as do the window regulators. And then you've torn the whole dashboard/console off the car---what if something gets unplugged in there?
And if your heater core is corroded, what does that say about the radiator?
You can absolutely find a '99 BMW 740il with under 100K in the $15K-$17K range. I found a lot of them online in a quick search at www.traderonline.com.
If you like the car, make the owner fix everything or get an estimate from BMW dealer on making the car "100%" and deduct the BMW dealer's estimates from a $15,000 price. That'll be fair then and you'll also know all about the car.
But really I'd just go buy a clean one and pay the extra money. You're going to be paying it anyway.
You aren't actually buying a $10,000 car. You are buying a $15,000++ car. That's the reality of the "deal".
Just read your complaint in #170 (sunroof wind noise). I have the same problem in a
740iL. Had my kid put his ear up to the sunroof and we're pretty sure that's where the "whistling noise" is coming from.
This weekend I'll try to check any adjustments that can be done, talk with some sunroof installers, or maybe see what a weather strip can do.
Did you get your problem resolved (your message is dated in Feb. 2005).
Thanks,
BaltoJoe
I've got a 1998 740i with 128k miles on it. A friend 'gave' me the car a year ago. It had 124k miles when I got it. In the last year I've done almost every light bulb in the car (laugh but they're typicaly $15 or $20 each and there are a lot of them!) belts, hoses, a 'major' or II service, and had the water pump go (that was a cool unexpected grand - but I was on Wilshire in Beverly Hills near the BMW dealer when it blew to at least I didn't incurr a tow bill) and many other minor but expensive trim peices have broken, failed, etc. This car was not pampered and has been driven hard by my buddies now former spouse. He dumped her and the car in the same week. (good decisions, both!)
The car has a rough idle, sucks premium gas like a fiend, and needed new catalytic converters in the last year @ $1800 for the pair. For me, the price was certainly right - i.e.: free. But the cost of keeping this beast on the road is a bit much. I've owned MBZ's for years and thought a BMW would be at least as good and maybe better than the newer Mercedes. I was wrong.
Oh - one more thing... every instrument display from the radio and DSP sound system to the dash warning panel and the A/C controls has various numbers of LED's burned out. The "fix" is to replace the entire panels - even when it means a total disassembly of the dash (and that's labor at the dealer at nearly $100/hr PLUS the cost of the part(s) themselves) - which varies from a few hundred dollars to several thousand.
When the car runs well, it's a nice luxurious auto. Heavy. Powerful. But the trim, the electronics, and the AC are all mediocre - and this was a car with a high 80's or low 90's sticker price even back in 1998 when it was new. I know this is the wrong place to say anything unkind about a BMW - but this one is a nightmare. If we drove much or needed the car to be dependable, I'd be in trouble. My advice is to save yourself a huge headache and avoid the 7 series cars all together. No one I know who has one is happy with it. It seems the engineering was a little light but the prices don't reflect anything other than Bavarian Perfection - which it fails to deliver. (Hell, it fails to even come close!)
When your service writer at Beverly Hills BMW sends you holiday cards and calls you and introduces you to his replacement when he's going out on two weeks leave for surgery - you know you're spending far too much money and time there. My guy at BMW of Beverly Hills has done both this past year!
BTW: I'm hardly some kid with unrealistic expectations about any car. I'm a 54 year old physician and like I said - solidly in the MBZ camp for decades (until the late 90's when they began to disappointment with their degrading quality and increasing prices.) Honestly, I'm going to dump this thing as a trade-in or send it to the auction. It's cost per mile (I put maybe 4000 miles on it last year) has been absurd. I wish someone made a car that would last, provide decent reliabilty, a little bit of panache and style, and remain serviceable for more than 100k miles. Let's see ... the last time that happened was the 1985 MBZ 300 series turbodiesels, I think. Anyone know of anything else that's still running in droves after 20 years?
Mark in LA
But really, BMW 3 and 5 series have performed better overall, you're right.
John the sad one
Forget the EPA, you are wasting your time complaining to them about this. Focus your energies on solutions that can help you in the short term. There is no Federal law about not being smart enough to fix a car, so you can't punish anyone for that...good thing, too, or our jails would be overflowing.
I have been wanting to get back into the 7 (less mechanical problems of course than the 94 I had) and found a 2000 740IL with 55,000 miles for 21,500. I am buying it from a guy who owns a limo company and sells a handful of cars at his shop. Once I write him the check can I take it back within a few days if the car is in bad shape (I live in NC)? I plan on taking it to the local dealership and having them check it out. Is there anything I need to tell the dealer to do to give it a good bumper to bumper look so I can determine if I bought someone elses nightmare? Or can any mechanic take a look and tell me if anything will need to be repaired. I dont mind repairs down the road...I am just trying to avoid any in the next 6-12 months.
And from your overall experience is the 2000 740 IL the right 7 to get into or should I just break down and buy my wife the 2002 X5 and stay in my 97 5?
Thanks for any suggestions or help...and I am new to this service to.
Not without prior written agreement, no. A deal's a deal unless you can prove he defrauded you or misrepresented the car in a serious and measurable way, neither of which is all that easy to do. It's difficult to unwind a car deal. You can always check with an attorney if you want to draw up some kind of agreement about returning the car. But it sounds like a lot of work. There's an easier way.
What you need to do is have the car thoroughly checked before you buy it, and then based on what is found, negotiate a price that will compensate you for forthcoming repairs that might have been noted on the inspection----or reject the car if there are red flags.
What is the best way to have the car checked? Are the online services good to use like carfax has a service for $99 they send a mechanic over to take a look or is there another method or service you are aware of?
Thanks again.
I loved, loved this car -- it in great shape, looked great and had a great feel to it.
It stopped once unexpectedly on the road and the dealer said the cable connecting engine to computer got disconnected. About 3 months later, after also replacing the alternator, the car stopped on the road again while driving, this time resulting in a wreck and the car was totaled -- luckily every one was safe.
Is this something that just happens to this model of BMW -- would it be safe to buy another one?
BMW NA Customer Relations
Sorry about all your problems w/ the car. I have a 1998 BMW 740i w/ 60,000 miles and the car has been perfect save for normal wear and tear items (steering pump and a few other items were covered in warranty). I met a guy at the tire dealer when I was getting some new tires. He has the Exact same car as I (color, year ect) except his has 160,000 miles and he said he was "trouble free" save normal wear and tear. His LED's were all fine, DSP sound and everything. Maybe all the hard driving the car had before is causing all of the extreme maintenance items you are having to pay. No one wants to throw money down a "rat hole" so perhaps you sell it ?
Where (web site ect) did you purchase the Warranty Direct coverage and how much? I have 60K on a 1998 and wonder if the $$ is worth it.
Thanks!
Mike
Please provide more info.
Thanks
Thank you for your comments.
If you meant you spent $1,500 PER YEAR on the Camaro, yes, that's too much for a car like that, but just about right for a BMW...if you want to really treat the car right and have it last a long long time.
Still, the 7 series is the car that appeals the most to me out of the BMW lineup, but if the 5 series has a better track record, I might compromise
I've come close to buying a 7 series several times but backed out at the last minute.I most recently considered the 745li when it first came out but was scared off by the reliability nightmares people were having. If I were to reconsider the 745 do you think a used 04 or 05 would match the reliability of the S Class or does the cars still have inherent electrical gremlins? Do you think a 745 with Blizzaks will get me through back roads during a Ct. winter or do I need to buy a 4x4 for snow days? (which would probably nix the deal) Do you find it to be as luxurious and satisfiying as the S Class?
To further complicate things I've looked at the new Audi A8L and I find it to have superior craftmanship and materials on the interior to the S Class or 745Li, the only 2 problems are that it looks like a stretched A4 or A6 on the outside and I feel I would tire of its exterior looks very quickly and I dont know If my ego would allow an Audi in my garage.
I'd appreciate your thoughts.
I think any car anyone chooses involves some compromises.
It does sound like you are "ready for a change" so that much we have established.
As for what a 2005 model BMW will do, that requires a crystal ball I think.
As for the Audi 8, I think it's a fabulous car. Maybe not quite the "driver" that the 7 series is (a little numb in the steering perhaps?) but still a solid German car. I rather like the looks. One could argue after all that a 7 series is just a stretched 5 series. My only real concern with the Audi 8 are two: 1) the frame is aluminum and if the car is smacked not every body shop can deal with straightening and 2) I think the resale value is not as good as a BMW or Benz (higher depreciation).
As for snow in CT, sure I think a competent driver with good snow tires and traction control is worth 75% of any AWD system. If you are skiiing every weekend in Vermont, then you might need AWD (or just rent something). Really a car rides on its tires, not its AWD, and relies on its driver, too. My argument is always the same----if two tires will skid on ice, so will four, or ten or eighteen.
So that's how it works I guess...Benz for prestige, BMW for driving, Audi for craftsmanship and styling. Will any of these be as troublefree as a Lexus? Probably not. But they will be more interesting to drive, if you like to drive a lot.
Sounds like you need to choose between the 7 series and the Audi 8, and maybe if you did extended test drives in both you'd come to some conclusion. I wouldn't sweat the snow part.
mind, there are several questions I have about my
BMW. I have a 1990 BMW 735iL that has a 3.5
litre inline 6 and a standard automatic. I only
have 1 key for this car, and I'd like to get a
spare key and a "Valet Key." I'm not sure, but I
think this has a transponder chip in the key. Do
I have to call a BMW dealership and special order
for these keys, or could I get these from a
locksmith specially dealing in transponder keys?
Would the ignition still work if you have a key
that fits the lock, but has no transponder chip?
Also, I'm not sure whether or not this particular
year of this car has an alarm on it. Is the
alarm remote inside the handle of the key or do I
have to order that from BMW as well? As for the
unlock codes for the BMW 7 series radio, does
anyone know the factory issue codes? A guy who
used to work for BMW says the codes are simple:
1414, 4747, 3636, etc.
Also, what is the approximate value of a car like
this in very good condtion with a few dents,
clean engine bay and well maintained vehicle with
only 105,000 miles?
As for the mods, I was thinking of either
modifing or having a special made engine (M Sport
intake and 4 valve/cyl. design and twin turbo or
supercharged) with BMW parts and a stick shift.
Is it possible for me to either mod the inline 6
with parts from a M5 or should I upgrade to an 8
cylinder? If so, would it be cost efficient for
me to have a special made M Sport 8 cylinder or
should I just buy an engine from a '95 540i or M5
or an 8 cylinder from a 740i? Is there any turbo
headers or supercharger manifolds available for
this car or will that have to custom made? What
type of turbochargers or supercharger can I use
that is adjustable but provides top-end
horsepower?
When mating the engine to the car, what types of
chips and/or modules will I need to install or
remove from the vehicle? The rev limiter and
engine governor is the only 2 I can think of for
now. If I remove these modules from the harness,
will the car still run without these limiters, or
will I need limiters from a M Sport Edition/
manual transmission BMW? What about Dinan
Performance Parts- - Do they have anything in
performance upgrades for a 7 Series? How do I
contact them?
As I said before, I want to drop the automatic
and go for the stick shift. How do I go about
adding a clutch and gear shifter? I wanna
install a getrag 5 speed manual from a BMW 5
series, but I heard that these may have syncro
problems. Is there any way to counteract this?
Would the trans. from a 540i manual work best, or
since they are rare, should I just get one from a
525i or a 535i? As with these types of mods,
what else can I add to this car to prevent
excessive wearing or destruction of these parts
during high speeds? Should I upgrade the oils
and fluids to a different viscocity?
Thank you for your input.
Your question has been addressed already in detail in the Speed Shop Board. Try not to run duplicate posts if you can avoid it. We'll see you over in Speed Shop then, okay?
MrShiftright
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