Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I asked about the RallyX rules and downloaded them. I think you could campaign a '69 Dodge dart with a straight 6 and do pretty well.
Rally is now separate from RallyX. For me I'd go with RallyX but no Mini's run in it in that region. I should check nationally and see if any run. But the MazdaSpeed 3 is a real monster so maybe that will dominate the FWD category?
I'll keep my eyes open to see what's going on.
Looking for thoughts on the MINI/BMW Maintenance (Service) Extended coverage. Here's the deal: Husband purchased dream 2007 MINI Cooper S less than 48 hours ago. He agreed and signed the program upgrade agreement at cost of $1795. It is listed as "OPTIONAL" in the actual PURCHASE AGREEMENT. After he shows me....I start to wonder, "Is this really a 'good deal'? Is this 'even money' as I'm sure he'll want service at authorized MINI dealership only?" Then I think, let me check it out before we commit....but when we call dealership, they say it's "too late"....contract has been turned into BMW and we agreed to it and it's a done deal. My financing credit union says NO! It's "optional" and they can just NOT pay it. Dealer then says, "Yeah, but you'll owe us $1795". What happened to "buyer's remorse" laws? Don't I have like 72 hours to revoke an agreement like this?
AND, when all is said and done, are we being ripped off....or is this TRULY an "Even money" good deal? I just wanted a little more time to explore....I don't have long though. I would appreciate thoughts from people that know....thus I appreciate all help you can provide! Car will be driven AT LEAST 20K (probably more like 25K) a year in non-extreme (well, HOT) weather conditions. Many freeway miles as well.
As for bumper-to-bumper warranty extension, credit union beat BMW/MINI by $1500 and so will go with their coverage. 72/100K with $200 deductible at $831/year. Thoughts on this as well are appreciated!
P.S. I got a large amount of Stree tar on the side doors and found a great body work person to remove it in an hour for a reasonable fee. Let me know if you need address/name....he is in Needham Mass.
I thought I was supposed to change the oil at 5000 miles, maybe I read that somewhere.
But I called the dealer and they said I'm not due for service yet. , what am I supposed to do? I can't find anything in the manual or lease form that gives me specifics.
Is there anything I need to do before lease return date in May?
thanks
You're on a 12-month lease? :confuse:
Car "fanatics" that want to keep their cars for a long time and in peak condition usually change oil more frequently than these new extended recommendations - it's cheap insurance to keep a car running beyond 75,000 miles. That said, the car certainly won't fail during the time you have it on lease, and even so, it's on warranty. Less frequent oil changes are the "next owner's problem".
Some more "weasle words" - If you drive in hot climates, do more stop-and-go, drive hard, then oil should be changes more often. If it's a freeway cruiser in temperate climates, less frequent. If you use synthetic oil - less frequent. If "normal" oil, more frequent.
Last "split the baby" - some people change the oil more frequently but change the oil filter every other time to save a little money and/or it is easier to change oil youself without changing the filter.
More than you wanted to know . . .
but on the chance I do buy this one, I certainly would want to have done right by the oil! And so you're saying, I could change the whole oil and/or change the filter (whatever that is), how much can I expect to pay for these things, and, when it's time for my official Mini maintenance check will they hold it against me that I did these things? (you know some of this warrantly stuff says you are not supposed to do things on your own or somesuch)
thanks for the very helpful information.
Of note, in the "old days" (just 5 years ago), high performance BMWs used to require an early oil change after an engine break-in period (forgot how many miles it was at, might have been as low as 2500), before they recommended high speed/high performance driving of the car. That was "old-school".
Good luck.
Has anyone else had problems with emissions?
2. Like a fairly large contingent of BMW/Mini enthusiasts/fanatics, we hate run-flats. Expensive, noisy, low performance, expensive, questionable whether they can really be repaired after they go flat (so expensive replacement is req'd).
SO, what i did . . . (previous post #74)
My 2003 "S" has no space for a spare. Due to high cost of run flats and performance, I ditched run-flats for high performance/reasonably priced Yoko AVS ES100 (from Tire Rack), a can of tire repair/inflator from AutoZone or PEP Boys in case I get a nail-hole, and upgraded my AAA Auto Club membership to "Plus" status which gives me free 100 mile tow and roadside service (and all the maps you can eat!). So, if I get a flat, I try the "repair in a can", and if not dice, I call AAA and they can fix it or tow me to a tire shop. Not exactly risk-free, but it works for me. So . . .
Big surprise - I don't believe in this type of insurance. If I were you and ever got a flat, I would call AAA to tow me to safety and buy 4 new NON-RUN flat tires (or a replacement RUN-FLAT) - you'll probably save money in the long run - and who knows - you may never get a flat and save all the money. Keep your eyes open and avoid potholes (easier said than done).
Note that, depending on extent of damage, many bent or damaged wheels can be repaired (though you have to find a specialist - dealers will NEVER agree to fix a damaged wheel). I've also heard that, because of the complexity of run-flat tires and the fact that you essentially drive on the sidewalls when driving on them flat that they are NOT REPAIRABLE (at least not reliably).
Anyway, it's all about risk, reward, and cost. I don't worry about potholes here in Las Vegas, but i do drive 250 miles across barren desert weekly and do so in my "S" on REGULAR tires and keep my AAA card handy (never got a flat, though - knock on wood).
If you buy the insurance, read the fine print . . . how long are you covered, are there any exceptions to coverage (like hitting a pothole while speeding), do they replace damaged tires/wheels free of charge or pro-rate the reimbursement based on remaining life (like battery companies do), etc. etc. Caveat emptor!
Good luck.
My gut says that blaming this emissions problem on "storage" of the car is BS. How long was the car in storage and where did you store it?
Something is not right here. With today's complex car systems, maybe a computer software engine control problem, which can be very hard to fix. Make them fix it on warranty!!!! Or, YOU will pay to have it fixed later, when it is not on warranty. OR did you "abuse" your Mini (and are just not telling us)?
Good luck.
My 2004 mini is now around 40k miles and it's close to 12 month since last time I have it serviced in the dealer (still within warranty) when the service indicator went to 0.
Now the service indicator is around 4500 miles which would take me another 4-6 months to get that through. Do I need to take it for the service before the indicator goes to 0? I heard i am supposed to do a low-mileage check-up every 12 month.
Can I just take it to an independent shop for an oil change before scheduling a more comprehensive service when indicator's 0?
Also do you recommend to take it to the dealer or independent shop for the major service (is it called Inspection I)? My 4 year/50K warranty is die this July.
Does it cover the clutch? It's well worth it if it covers the clutch if it's a manual and if it fully covers the transmission if it's an automatic. Otherwise it's not really worth it for oil changes and brake pads
The tire warranty that was offered to us was only for replacement tires due to road hazard, not wear replacement...much like a car battery warranty, pro-rated by the tread life. Since total cost of tire replacement is approx. $250... (I know this is accurate, since she has had to replace a tire), you can do the math to see how many tires she would have to go through to break even.
Also, tire mileage varies by driving conditions, and in her case, she is a mild mannered driver. She has 30K miles on the 3 original tires and about 8K on the new tire, and I would estimate at least 75-80% tread remains on the 3 original tires. If you are a conservative driver, you can easily get over 50K miles out of a set of Goodyear run-flats. I admit that it surprised me quite a bit.
So, maybe the wording is different in your tire warranty.
In the end, the question is..."Do you feel lucky?"
On a Mini, like a BMW, it doesn't take a catastrophic event to run up a huge repair bill, so its money well spent if you wind up needing it. Also, remember that the dealer/warranty provider is betting you won't have a problem that will cost as much as the warranty sells for, or there would be no profit in it.
I would consider the question..."In other vehicles, have I experience major repair costs in the mileage/time period covered by the extra warranty?"
If yes, then consider the warranty...If no, then skip it and bank the cash.
PS...The only service issue she has had was a leaking temperature sensor replaced at 26 K miles (the housing of this sensor is plastic, so I would expect to see an ECO on this item if it is a widespread problem)....Replaced under warranty taking about 4 hours to do the job.
As far as warranties go ... i would highly recommend it but frankly haven't looked into it thoroughly. I can tell you I've had so many problems with my mini (mainly transmission) and that even after replacing the transmission ($8k) worth it never ran correctly again. Could not even trade it in (mind you i still owed $16k). Huge loss. Maybe the 08's are made better -- maybe not. I just know I will never buy from BMW again.
Good luck with your decision.
These cars are from England, not Germany aren't they?
Just curious ....why do you suggest this?
If I re-read the posts correctly, tica hasn't had any difficulty with the car other than a warning light issue, which doesn't appear to be an issue any more, and which apparently incurred no costs to get resolved..
tica doesn't appear to have an extreme amount of knowledge about this car, judging from the earlier postings regarding oil changes and oil filters, and has apparantly done OK with the Mini.
SO, why would you suggest that?
A year or so old car that can not get the check engine light off, that does not seem like a minor thing to me, just my opinion.
It sounds to me like the issue DID NOT get resolved.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/mini.html
I guess it isn't very clear whether the light is still on or off, so I will only say that I agree with you in that I would like to have an explanation why the light was on. I'm not sure what the "It's not the gas as it has happneed when I didn't gas" comment means, either, but it also doesn't appear that the dealer was offered much of a chance to resolve the issue (based upon the limited posting).
"http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/mini.html" web-site that you listed on your earlier posting.
Specifically, it appeared that well over 50% of the complaints were from non-original owners, but I wish to add that its just a guess...no scientific analysis performed to arrive at that number.
It got me to thinking about the issue of reliability on both the Mini as well as other cars.
First of all, and I think you would agree with this statement, you can find a blog/forum/posting site detailing disgruntled owners of just about any vehicle made in mass production, so the very "existance" of a posting site detailing complaints does not necessarily mean the model is trash, whether it be Mini, GM. Ford, Mercedes, etc.
But, don't infer from that statement that I am saying there are no lemons out there. Believe me, I have had 1st-hand experience in that arena!
Most recently, a 05 Chevrolet Aveo Hatchback LT with all options. It never saw a dirt/gravel road and was always garaged when not in use, and at 34K miles the car was literally self-destructing...I even purchased the Helm shop manuals when I bought the car, intending to keep the car for an extended length of time. I guess I was fortunate, in a way. Even though the MPG never approached what the EPA figures, the car never suffered from any mechanical issues, so I was never stranded. However, it literally began falling apart at around 24 K miles...As examples, It was on the 3rd sunroof, doorhandles came off and the CD player played only at its convenience, whenever it felt like playing.
I don't mean this to be a gripe session about the Aveo, but to simply illustrate my point, in that some fowners really love this car and have no issues with it, even after very high mileage, and would buy another one without hesitation.
It strikes me any "performance" car like the Mini (Nizzan 300Z, Corvette, any car in this category) should require a slightly different viewpoint when it comes to viewing service and reliability. That's a topic that no dealer wants to bring up with a prospective buyer, since in sales, you "prefer" to avoid negatives.
Think about it for a minute...If you have ever purchased a car with performance tires, did the salesman stress that you would not get nearly the mileage on the tires as compared to "all season" tires? When we purchased our 05 Mini, for example, the run-flat extended warranty wasn't mentioned (along with the reasons why we should buy it...by the way, we didn't) until after the deal was done.
In our case, our Mini Convertible has over 30K miles with the only issue being a bad temperature sending unit, which the dealer repaired while I waited...less than 4 hours, and covered under warranty. Now, my wife is the primary driver, and she in no way could be considered an aggressive driver, so that is one reason I think we have had a "clean" car. I also have the oil/filter changed every 5 K miles, even though BMW/Mini state you can get by with a lot more miles between changes. Even then, during the 1st 3 years/36 K miles, you get a free oil/filter change once a year...no charge. So, no excuses for no oil changes in that time period.
In the used car world, this car would be called "cherry", due to its history. However, simply due to the nature of this type of vehicle, ours is probably the exception, and I would think most owners push their cars a little (maybe a lot more) than my wife does hers. Of course, the sales folks encourage these behaviors as well. Have you ever heard a car salesman state that driving his product aggressively will cause it to fail prematurely?And, while there are many owners who drive very conservatively, I would guess the average Mini driver to be more "sports driving oriented" than say, a Ford Taurus owner...and, that's one of the reasons why they bought the car...
Since I have dragged this out much further than I should have, I'll end with a few bullit points...
- Buying a used "performance" vehicle probably entails additional risks, as those cars have probably been driven more aggressively by previous owners.
- Service history should be more important to a potential buyer when considering a used performance-oriented vehicle.
- When buying a new vehicle, the buyer should look at the "entire package". By that, I mean looking beyond price paid for the car. Are you planning to have the selling party also perform the service? Have you taken a look at the service facility to ensure it looks clean and professional? Does the dealer have a good reputation and a lot of repeat business? Things of that nature...
- Shopping for a car like you would a TV set or a blender will, more often than not, get you a better up-front price, but also, again more often than not, ultimately lead to a "less than completely satisfied" owner experience. Most TV sets and blenders do not require on-going service to remain in service.
- A dealer that attempts to take advantage of you in the sales process will probably do the same in the service process.
- The dealer with the lowest selling price is quite often going to have a higher percentage of dis-satisfied customers in the long run.
My attitude in buying an automobile has always been that, after the deal is done, we should both be able to leave the table "frown-free".
Again, lemons are built by every manufacturer. Sometimes, the best we can do is to hope we aren't the one getting it...
Sorry about the long post...I guess I had too much time on my hands today...
You are better off taking the $6448 they want and putting it into a high-yield savings account and using that for any repairs or maintenance not covered by the warranty that comes with the car.
1. The dealer makes a lot of money off of the money they get from you.
2. The dealer needs to charge that much $ cause the car will require it.
dealer offered several extended coverage options:
5 years ding repair ~$600//
5 years leather guard ~$600//
5 years clear coat ~$600//
maint included to 72/100 $1295. this includes shoes, .... this didn't sound like a great deal as it only included maint items. I can't image at their service interval that would pay for itself. she said they buy that agreement for 1095 and sell for 1695 (her initial offer)//
and finally extended warranty to 72/100 $2695. said they buy this for 1995 and she would have probably gone to around $2295. said that if we do not make a claim on this extended warranty then the entire amount gets refunded at the end of the warranty (an interesting gamble). also said there was a one-time $100 deductible. I can picture myself at 70/95 K faced with a $2000 repair bill and eating it rather than loosing out on the refund. I don't like gambling on things like this because the MBAs that come up with the odds are smarter than me. I don't play the lottery either. I got a simple dealer 72/100 on my wife's new pilot in 06 for $750 -- good piece of mind.
Anyway, I really want a straight forward extended warranty (did I mention I have experience with leland vehicles). Can anyone give me some advice on how I can get an extended warranty, preferably dealer authorized repairs, which is straight forward?
thanks and hello to the club.
While I am no Consumer Reports "Kool Aid" drinker, they rank the 08 Mini Cooper as a Recommended Buy. They also list the last 5 year models as" neutral" to "better" in repair history.
However, they did list the 05 Mini Cooper Convertible "S" as a used car to avoid, but that was the only year and model in that category.
Take the information for whatever its worth
sorry I was unclear. as someone posted earlier, no, I don't know anything about cars, the Mini is my first car--even though I'm 40--I've lived in NY and London for past 20 years so never needed one.
I love my Mini. I don't like the sunroof, but that's just personal--I don't want wrinkles and the shake doesn't block out all the light even when closed.
The Check Engine LIght (CEL). has come on intermittently for no apparent reason over the past year I've had omy 2007 basic Mini. The very first time it happened, it did, in fact happen after I put gas in it--and accidentally drove away with the gas thing still in the gas hole (I thought the guy had taken it out--dumb I know!) It stayed on for a week or two, then went off. Over the past year on occasion--once a month or once every two months, perhaps, it's gone on for no apparent reason. So in other words, not necessarily after I've put gas in it. And it may stay on for a day or two then go off inexplicably. The last time it happened, a couple of months ago, it was on for 2 weeks, so I took it to the dealer, they 'preprogrammed' it all. It's the sensors or somesuch. No one seemed concerned about it. It was off when I picked it up. It did go back on 2 weeks later for about 2 days, then went off. So I don't know if this is bad or not. I've never had any problem besides this.
A good friend who has a BMW told me that her CEL went on a lot for no reason, too. The guy who inspected my car from the bank leasing company last week told me that on his Honda, his CEL went on too the first year he had it. So I don't know. Maybe it's not a big deal.
My only big question is, for the same price and fewer features, should I get the 08 so that I get a newer car and f1 year more warranty? I have about 4 weeks to make up my mind before I have to turn my current car in. It has 3600 miles.
thanks
I guess I would ask you why you have the Mini...
Is the the style of the car? MPG rating? Good lease pricing? Something else?
I ask this because, first of all, you put very few miles on your car. From a financial point of view, it would be much cheaper for you to drive a Corolla, Yaris, Versa, or any number of comparably sized cars. You are taking a fairly big hit on depreciation as well.
You have never really said what attracted you to the Mini, other than you really don't prefer the sunroof, so its obvious that you didn't get it for that reason.
If you really like the Mini, before anyone can voice an intellegent opinion, you need to supply some cost information/figures on the car you have .vs. the deals offered on a 08 Mini.
As for the CEL occasionally being on at times, it doesn't appear that it has ever affected the drivability of the car, and since it has 2 more years of warranty, I personally wouldn't let that single item get in the way of keeping the car.
Again, however, I would suggest that anyone only putting 4000 miles/year on a car look at cheaper alternatives, unless you have the cash to spend and simply MUST have a particulat make/model vehicle.
Sorry to not be of more help... Good luck in making your decision!