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Another car magazine (that shall go nameless) compared the Volvo S4 to the Audi A4 (both with all wheel drive). The audi came on top for the overall fact that the suspension was more in tuned with the driver vs. the volvo (at least the way I interpreted the article). Now, there was a lot of praise for the way the volvo handled itself; its just that the testers felt the audi did it a notch better on a back to back comparison. Gee I wonder if the audi's shod with 235 tires vs. volvo's 205 tires had anything to do with it? I perused the article a few times to see if I missed that little tid bit, but it seemed that I hadn't. Judging from the pictures, it was my first reaction to check the tire size specs on both (if I remember correctly, the audi was just slightly smaller in profile).
Got 32,000 miles out of OEM tires
Replaced the 205/50-17 OEM RSA's with 225/45-17 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S.
Car handles and steers superbly now.
Probably would have gotten nearly the same handling with 50 series.
When we were in the finance office at the dealership, the finance guy said to me, "So, you don't want the wife driving the car, huh?!"
Turnabout is fair play, however ... I've had cars with manual transmissions since we MET in 1993 ... and she's never driven any of them!
Meade
I recall reading a post from someone who claimed that after a year their AC started working better - I though they must have just gotten use to the weak system.
Not sure why - or how - an AC system can actually get better over time - but I really think mine has. I would still not say that my AC is great - it still takes too long to cool off the car - but it is a BIG improvement over where it was at the start of the summer.
I also found a new TSB on grinding brakes (6/17/2005) so things are looking up.
If Mazda would just come out with a fix for the harsh 1-2 shift I could have all of my issues solved - before it is time to trade cars!
I dont have 16,000 KM on mine. But here is some interesting info. My girlfriend is in Taiwan right now. Her brother has a 2005 Mazda3, bought in November 2004. I specifically asked her to check out the A/C. The temp over there is around 33C or 90F. The A/C apparently works just fine at speed 1. At speed 2, the fan is too loud . :surprise: Also, the compressor doesnt shut off and on as frequent as ours does. There is CONSTANT airflow unlike with ours
I will need an oil change in about a month and hope that they have an update by then.
I have noticed that my radiator cooling fan seems to run more that it did before. This fan also pulls air through the AC condenser - so it can impact the AC performance.
It is a little strange - after I shut off the engine & get out of the car - the fan is still running - for 10 seconds - or so. Last summer it did this a few times - but now it does this all the time. Not sure why the change - or if it even has anything to do with my AC improvement - but it sure is nice to have a car that actually blows some cool air. I just hope it lasts.
It seemed intermittent, and I hadn't thought about it for a while, but I think what's now happening is that if you have the fan position in either of the window defrost settings, it automatically will turn the compressor on for you intermittently - but NOT light up the AC button. Can anyone else confirm this to be the case?
Hmmm! This may be a clue. My '05 has always done the 10-second run after engine shutdown ...
(Don't hit that "delete" key too fast there, Mr. Host! Only trying to help here! After all, this is the "Problems & Solutions" discussion, FCOL!)
Meade
When the engine is "hot" the fan should turn on - so why is my engine running hotter now than it did last summer?
The only thing I can come up with is -
Since I seem to be getting more cool air than before I am guessing the AC is not cycling on & off as fast / so the compressor is running longer - the extra load on the engine is making it run hotter - so the fan runs more.
So the radiator fan running more is not a solution to the problem - but the result of my AC (& engine) working harder.
The other reason for the AC improvement could be I am getting low on refrigerant - a system that is a little bit low can actually produce colder air than one that is fully charged - sounds backwards - but its true.
Now that the "cold" front has hit Houston (temp at 7:30 AM today was a frigid 68 degrees) my AC really kicks out the cold air - its fun to drive again!
The dealerships were quoting me prices that included the oil change but also things like tire rotation and fuel injector cleaning as well.
What experience and pricing did you have for the 15,000-mile service? Should I go ahead or merely get an oil change? BTW, the car's running fine with no glaring issues.
Thanks.
Just do the services spelled out in the owner's manual for 15,000 miles--no more. Tire rotation is up to you. I do it every 7k or so, but some owners just let the front tires wear out and buy new ones.
I know some people (on front drive cars) just skip the rotation - let the front tires wear out - then replace them and leave the original tires on the rear.
My front tires wear out about 3 times faster than the rear.
Many tire experts advise to NOT do this - the reason is having better traction on the front tires (on a front wheel drive car) than the rear has a negative impact on handling.
So - if you have 2 tires than are 1/2 way worn out and 2 new tires - you should put the new tires on the rear.
Most cars have a built in tendency to UNDERSTEER - if you have more traction on the front than the rear it can change the handling of your car from understeer to oversteer. Which means if you take a corner a little to fast the back of your car will skid around and you will going backwards.
As far as the fuel injector cleaning goes, most if not all just pour that bottle of injector cleaner into your vehicle's gas tank. The cost is not only for the bottle of cleaner (anywhere from $3-$15), but the cleaner specifically calls for a full tank of gas, which could translate into additional $50 bill (depending on how much gas is already in the tank). Though I doubt the dealerships will fill your tank up let alone tell you to fill up when the car is ready or when picking up the car . That bit of info would 'rat' them out as to the the actual work done on the car.
We've been getting our usual 80 degree daytime/40 degree nighttime temperatures here, so it's been pretty cold in the mornings. I've noticed a couple of times upon firing her up that there's a knocking sound from the engine compartment. It usually lasts about 10 seconds during which time the rpm dial hits almost 2k before "calming down" to it's usual 800 rpm level. That can take about a minute.
Has anyone else had this problem? From owning a Miata for 4+ years before trading it in for this 3 I'm used to Mazda's "problems" that mysteriously disappear after a while with no work being done on my part to "fix" them. I'm hoping this is another one of those instances!
Here's an excellent article on the topic
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/050302.htm
Meade
Since we purchased and drive the car throughout South Florida and Georgia I consider that proof that the system is in fact well engineered.
During the 35,000 miles and 15 months of totally problem free ownership we have received superb service from three different Mazda dealers in Florida and Georgia.
Perhaps you received a different Mazda in Canada because Consumer Reports and every other rating magazine and service in the US has given the Mazda3 and Mazda superb ratings.
http://www.strategicvision.com/press_release.php?pr=10&PHPSESSID=84037b072d96e48eab0495e9a- - - d421dbd
Please note how these ratings were assigned:
More than 40,793 buyers who bought 2005 models in October and November of 2004 supplied data. “We gather comprehensive data that reflects the breadth and depth of the ownership experience, including emotions. The information is used to calculate ‘Total Quality’ indices.
Meade
Any help here?
Thanks
When in the Navigation Mode, press the Enter button down once. This will bring up an options menu. Scroll down to "Delete Destination." That will get rid of the original destination.
As an alternate, you can enter in a new destination which will cancel the original destination as well.
Hope this helps
JB
1. My CEL is very sensitive and is specifically caused by not completely tightening the the gas cap. The cap has to be inserted just right and then turned to tighten. Failure to do this results in a CEL every time.
2. No problems with AC. It blows cold (not frigid) and cools the car down even in bright sunny So. Cal.
3. I get the rare wheel hop when accelerating hard while cornering. This is discussed on other forums for the MZ3 and is known to be caused by the soft durometer engine mounts. This is not a problem unless one likes to drive the car hard.
4. I get an occasional flutter sound from the engine compartment when the engine is under load (not to be confused with engine knock). This too has been noted on other forums as possibly being caused by the vane in the air mass flow sensor.
5. About 3 weeks ago, I began to notice a very slight almost imperceptible vibration through the steering wheel. It could be my nearly worn tires or a bad CV joint (a known issue on some MZ3s).
Other than the above, I have had no other issues. I'm planning on having items 3, 4 & 5 looked at under warranty during my next visit to the dealership.
Regards,
JB
Welcome back, JB.
Could you let us know why you opted for a used rather than new MZ3? Was cost the only consideration? What mileage did the car have upon purchase? Any advice for others considering used versus new?
At high way speeds, I hear a 'rattling' from the grauges. When I hear the sound, I get the impression that it must be something related to the odometer.. it's not really a rattle, more of a 'clicking' sound.
I think you have the solution for this noise, but can you explain what 'piece of plastic' you are referring to? I thought you were talking about the plastic that separates the odometer from the gas meter, etc. I tried to pull that out... doesn't seem to come off.
My car is less than week old and I didn't notice this sound during the test drive (probably because the high way near the dealership is newly paved).
Meade
Any ideas what this could be from???
I dropped it off at the dealer last night and this morning they tell me that the light is supposed to flash. Ummm.... NOOOOOO.... it's not, I tell them. They are going to look again.
Look in your owners manual under security.
It says - "the security indicator light flashes every 2 seconds until the system is DISARMED.
The system is disarmed when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position with the correct key. If your light flashes with the key switched on then you have a problem.
There are NUMEROUS Mazda boards both in Canada and USA that mention the inadequate A/C has an ongoing issue with unsatisfactory cooling. When people say their A/C is fine in their Mazda3, I get frustrated because they don't mention what setting they use (level 1,2, or3). Not one of my many [4 cylinder economy] cars that I have leased in the last 8 years did I ever encounter such a weak and feeble A/C system. I wish I had my 1.8 L, 89 HP TDI for that reason alone.
Just today, I visited another Mazda board and it was mentioned that one particular dealer [in the USA] indicated that the 2004/2005 Mazda3 and 2006 Mazda5 have an evapator that is too small. In the 2006 Mazda3 and Tribute, the size has increased and therefore, the cooling is much better. The dealer also mentioned that Mazda won't replace the evaporator on the 04/05's. But, at least the problem is RECOGNIZED by some dealers! :surprise:
I have no idea how Consumer Reports actually comes up with some of this info. I can say for sure, I totally disagree with the 2005 Mazda3 and VW Jetta as being up there (I owned both).
I have always agreed with JD Powers, which I feel is more objective and accurate: http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/ratings/vehicles/FindJdAwardsResults.jsp. You may have to select the 2005 Mazda3 in the above link or try this link instead: http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/ratings/vehicles/FindJdAwards.jsp
The bottom line is that the 2005 Mazda3 is rated in OVERALL QUALITY a 2 out of 5!!
For those that are not clear on how JD Powers does their research, see:
http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/content/faq.jsp#question02
This other company's info is questionable: http://www.strategicvision.com/view_ratings.php
The Total Quality Index is: Satisfaction with complete ownership experience
Perception of quality, Emotional attachment to vehicle yields a high score of 859
The Total Value Index is: Delight with the deal, Belief in getting a smart buy,
Likelihood to repurchase, based on value is 767
And, the biggest one, Problem Impact Measure
(lower number is better), have NO DATA (No data available) !! :confuse:
You decide which one you believe.
sigh.
Today I realized that the sound is very minor but it's still noticeable. The sound isn't a
click', after all. Sounds like a liquid dripping? Tick tick tick tick tick, more like. And it appears to be coming from under the dashboard.
I wish this sound would go away. :sick:
I think basically my whole dashboard seems to squeak here and there when I'm in a rough road.
Most prominantly behind the steering wheel and near the center console.
I think the area around the information display appears weak. it definitely squeaks when i press the area surrounding it (the black plastic in the i model)
it's not noticeable (that much), but i tend to be anal with these things.
should i tell this to the dealer?
the dealer is very, very far away so i can't be traveling back and forth a lot so i don't want it to be in for repairs and such.
as for the 'clicking noise in dash' - i still don't get how to repair that so more directions should be much appreciated.
Initial Quality Ratings
- Mechanical Quality : The rest (2 stars)
- Feature and Accessory Quality : Better than Most (4 stars)
- Body & Interior Quality : About Average (3 stars)
Appeal Ratings
- Performance : Better than Most (4 stars)
- Comfort : Better than Most (4 stars)
- Style : Better than Most (4 stars)
Source: http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/ratings/vehicles/FindJdAwards.jsp
Mine was also a dealer trade but it only had 20 miles on it. I've never experienced the squealing, but I am having problems with rattling.
Thanks for the welcome. I opted for used primarily due to price. i was looking for a loaded 3S 5sp with navi which was difficult to come by at the dealership without ordering. While searching used, one became available in my second color choice. Mileage was at about 28,000. I researched the MZ3 prior to buying so I new what to look for and what problems might be prevalent.
The person I bought the car from needed a larger vehicle to tow his recently purchased motorcycle. I utilized my credit union to purchase the car and they were able to handle everything including DMV transfer, title and registration. So the transaction was very smooth.
All in all, I probably saved about $4,500 over purchasing new and I got all of the features I wanted. Hope this helps someone who may be making the decision between purchasing new and used.
Regards,
JB
I certainly agree that what is considered hot or cold is certainly subjective. Personally, I find that the AC when set on fan setting 2 blows "comfortably" cold. It is by no means frigid as I noted in an earlier post, and it as not as cold as my MPV.
What I have noticed about the MZ3 is that the AC seems to be governed by some sort of thermostat in the passenger cabin that begins to automatically cut the compressor in and out once the interior reaches a certain temperature. What that temperature is I cannot say since I have not felt the need to measure it.
For those who don't think the AC is cold enough, one suggestion would be to have the dealer check the adjustment of the linkage to the heat valve. It is possible that a small amount of hot water is being circulated through the heater core even though the temperature control knob is turned to the coldest setting. Just a thought.
Hopefully, for those not satisfied with the AC, a solution can be found.
Regards,
JB
This type of service sounds very likely if the distance to the other dealer is not great and the customer is anxious to get the vehicle. Prior to accepting the car, I would check it carefully for dings and other blemishes; one easy way of doing this is to run your hand across the surface.
The idle should be set to 650 for manuals and 700 for auto transmissions, per Mazda specs for my region. The tachometer is just an approx.; any legit garage should have equip for correctly guaging the idle. If your idle is in fact 600 rpm, it's low, but not by any extreme; just enough to cause more of a rough idle. BTW - the rough idle may have something to do with one of the engine mounts (rubber being too soft). There's a tsb on this issue (I think mount 3?).
This site will better explain the range at which the idle is set. You may be able to convince the dealership to increase it to the higher end of the spectrum, especially if its proven that the idle smooths out at that new spec.
http://www.midwestcarclub.com/mazda/manual/
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/mazda3/bulletins_index.html
Several on brake noise (rear grinding) & suspension noises - I have had the grinding brakes fixed 2 times - but using the "old" TSB - I plan on trying to get the dealer to try the new fix at my next oil change - also waiting for the TSB on harsh tranny shift.