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Comments
LOL! Right you are!
I laugh because I once did something like this in my old Hyundai Excel in my dad's driveway -- I was on my knees, trying to adjust the clutch pedal -- pushed it in and the car started rolling -- thank goodness my dad's driveway was almost flat! :surprise:
Meade
The vibe (sorry for your nightmares) feels like it has some type of connection to the engine (or at least the flywheel). Again, hardly noticeable, but its there (25% of the time). The vibe has no noise associated with it.
I'm having difficulty coping with the vibe, especially if it doesn't go away or gets worse.
But all of this makes me wonder. I'm no mechanic, but if the squeak is associated to some sensor that tracks clutch position, maybe the sensor has gone bad and the there is some clutch, etc. bumping and grinding (no pun) because the sensor is misreading.
So I take it to the dealership and have the following conversation:
"What can we do for you?"
"About a week ago my parking brake light came on permanently. Yesterday my brakes started going out and today they are almost completely gone. I have to push the pedal almost all the way to the floor and even then the car barely slows down."
"Were you planning on waiting here?"
It's 4:00. They close at 6:00. There is NO WAY they are going to get my car repaired in that time. "No, I plan on leaving it here."
"Do you have a rental car lined up?"
"No."
"Do have a friend coming to pick you up?"
"No."
"How do you plan on getting home?"
Now I'm getting angry. "I expect you to give me a free rental car."
"We can only give out a rental car for two days and we are closed on Sunday." (It was Friday afternoon).
"I'm not taking my car home. The brakes don't work."
"But your parking brake light is on. That means something is wrong with your car. Until we get a code from the computer we won't know what is wrong with your car. We can only authorize a rental for more than two days if it is safety related or we don't have the part."
"Safety related? My brakes don't work."
"We won't know that until we hook it up to the computer."
"Look, all you need to do is sit in the car, turn it on, and push the brake pedal in..."
"I don't think you understand what I'm saying...." And then I tuned him out. I gave him my keys, went to the waiting room and, ..... waited. 10 minutes later he came back and said they would have a rental ready for me.
The Service Manager didn't show ANY concern that the brakes on my 6 month old car barely functioned. He didn't even OFFER to get me in a free rental car. Too bad they are (now) the only Mazda dealership in town after they bought the other one.
I'll update when I get my car back.
At least my rental is a Mazda 3i. The brakes on it are amazing! The brakes on my car must have been slowly weakening before they completely went out. Oh, and the gauge cluster on the i is ugly.
Jason
And you waited a week with failing brakes to have the problem checked out?
Although, as I said later, when compared to my Mazda 3 rental, the brakes on my car were not performing as well as they were when new. But considering how great the Mazda 3's brakes are, it wasn't obvious that the brake feel and response was lacking until I had something to compare it with.
Jason
So if that light stays on after you've released the parking brake it's an indication of a possible malfunction in the braking system which should be checked out immediately.
On some makes it only indicates low fluid level in the master cylinder. Since disc brakes don't have return springs, the brake fluid will displace from the fluid reservoir to the calipers as the pads wear, so sometimes the low fluid level just indicates pad wear and not a leak or other hydraulic malfunction.
On Toyotas enough fluid will displace from the MC to the wheel cylinders when the pads are only about half to 2/3rds worn to turn on the light.
Since your brake performance was impaired my guess would be you have a fluid leak which resulted in loss of brake pressure, so the light should not have been ignored. Most folks are unaware of the dual purpose nature of these lights, so you're excused this time, but the potential disaster could have been averted by reading the owner's manual when you got the car.
I found a spark plug cross reference chart - the L303-18-110 spark plug is a Mazda part number - the NGK part number is ITR5F13. The original NGK part number is ITR6F13. The only change - from a "6" to a "5" is the heat range. The new part is a hotter plug. Per the NGK web site the tip should be about 70 degrees centigrade hotter than the stock plug.
Since you had the hotter spark plugs installed have you noticed any change in engine operating temperature?
A hotter plug (VS a colder one) has nothing to do with how they fire - it is really just a measure of the plugs ability to conduct heat. A cold plug conducts more heat - allowing the heat to pass through to the cooling system - because it conducts more heat it stays cooler. A hotter plug does not conduct heat as well so the heat builds up in the combustion chamber.
You want the tip of the plug to be around 650 degrees (between 500 - 800) below 500 and the plug will foul because deposits (like unburned fuel, oil & carbon) will form on the plug - above 800 degrees and the plug tip will become so hot that the fuel entering the cylinder will ignite before the plug even fires - this will cause loud engine knocking and engine damage. At 650 degrees the plug tip is hot enough to burn off deposits - but cool enough to not cause pre-ignition.
E
Could be the fuel air mix is not set right - if mix is set too rich it will will lower the temperature of the spark plug tips - so a plug that would (for example) run 600 degrees centigrade with the correct fuel air mix - may run 490 degrees if the air/fuel mix is too rich - that will cause the plug to foul. This will be a bigger problem if the car is driven mainly on short trips & in a warm humid area. The result will be poor performance plus low MPG.
Short trips plus warm & humid describes the conditions for most of my miles. But when I checked my plugs they did not look fouled. I do have real low MPG - when compared to some others - I have been under 20 MPG for most of the summer.
I took a 100 mile highway trip yesterday - traffic was light and most of the trip was 80MPH + - This type of trip could help burn off any deposits on my plugs -
Today it seemed like my engine ran a little better - but it could just be my imagination.
E
E
I had to go to the owner's manual when the low tire pressure light came on. (Thanks TPMS!). Got that fixed for free when I got my oil changed.
I was unaware of the dual nature of the Parking Brake Light. Thanks for sharing. I'm sure others can use that info as well. I don't know much about cars, but my guess when the brakes died was a leak in the mastercylinder.
Good thing I wasn't on a vacation or something.
Jason
So on a rainy humid day maybe the lower temp more than offsets the higher humidity. But on a real hot humid day your engine will not run as good as it will on a cool dry day.
Most of this is from back in the days when cars used carbs and you could adjust the air fuel mix by turning a screw - I spent hours adjusting trying to get a few more MPH in the 1/4 mile.
The computer in a Mazda3 should adjust the fuel air mix depending on the conditions. That is another reason why it seems strange that Mazda would just put a hotter plug in to solve the issue. Maybe they tuned the engine in an environment that was (in general ) cool and dry. Could also explain why they did not notice my other problem - you know the one that I can't post about!
ecm56 - I don't recall anyone ever having the cruise control problem solved - just that a few had the issue.
I need good AC because we run it all the time in the spring & summer due to allergies. Heat is also a concern.
Thanks
I recall back when the 2005 model first came out - everyone though the AC problems had been solved. But when the temperatures got hot - some (of the 2005's) started having issues - since Mazda had not made any changes to the design I would bet that some of the 2006 models will also have a weak AC. Although it is a small %.
My advise would be to do a test drive on a very hot day and make sure it cools the car off - if it does great - if it doesn't then don't buy that car - test drive another one.
I would not buy a Mazda3 if I could not do a test drive on a hot day - because if you get a car with a weak AC Mazda will not fix it.
Zoom Zoom.
The Sandman
It has functioned perfectly in all temperature and humidity conditions, cooling the car perfectly in 95 degree plus conditions.
We have not had any failures of any kind on the Mazda 3, and had no problems or failures on the Mazda Protege 5 it replaced.
I sincerely doubt that there is any "General "problem with the Mazda 3 AC- I think what you see a few specific problems a small number of individuals are seeing.
We have had an extremely hot summer this year and the AC has functioned perfectly in the city and on the road.
The Mazda 3 5 door is the best car we have ever owned, far superior to the Acura RSX typeS, Subaru Outback, or Protege 5 we have had in the past 3 years.
It is as much fun to drive as the 350Z we also have, and much less trouble, since the only thing we have had to replace was the tires at 32,000 miles.
Mazda service, on the previous Protege 5 and present Mazda 3, has been outstanding.
If you look at the little bubble by the defroster vent - if it is made out of black plastic - you do not have the sensor -
Does anyone have an actual sensor? Maybe we can figure out which cars have it and which don't.
Meade
i'm new here so i'm sorry if this has been asked before. i'm looking at getting a 06 mazda 3 sport with the heated seats/6 cd changer etc (loaded). wondering if there is much they changed from 05. i know the heated seats/6cd changer is new, were there any major mechanical issues they fixed, and any mehancial issues I should be aware of that previous models had? I've heard alot of discussion with teh AC. Anythign else that every seems to complain about?
thanks.
Most mechanical issues and problems have been fixed. The a/c issue is still a minor one (probably less than 1 per 100). Unfortunately for you, there is no way of knowing if the a/c is a real issue now that we’re entering a cooler season (I assume your interest in the heated seats is because you experience winter like conditions a few months out of the year). So, if you buy a vehicle now, you would have to wait until summer 06 to really test the a/c. Now, my a/c works fine, but the large black dash is an a/c beater. A windshield sunshade should help.
BTW - I hope you are leaning towards getting the hatch in that new Copper Red Mica and a 5 speed
I think the 3 is too small to be making such a fuss about electronic dual climate control system as such. Excuse me, but where is that practically fashioned key hole for the hatch??? What about color/shade options for the interior (a la F150) – a cure for the Sunbelt perhaps??? Or a free sunshade perhaps??? Tinted windows anybody??? Heated (or cooled) seats??? Not for me unless I live in Canada (or Florida) with leather seats. What about heated outside mirrors??? I’ll take that. What about the down tilting outside mirrors when using reverse on the transaxle??? I’ll take that too. The rain sensing windshield wipers makes sense, but not a necessity. The Europeans get a bit pampered with all of these gadgets because they have to do with ‘lesser’ engines (less HP or KW) at a premium price (I believe 10-20% above what we would pay). I would gladly take the state-of-the-art 2.0 turbo diesel over the 2.3 any day of the year.
Onto another past subject.
Clutch chatter/vibration – GONE a week today! This is exactly the reason why I don’t sweat some stuff about newer cars. I had set up an appt with the service dept. on 8/31 for 9/7. Day later, it was GONE; so I had to cancel the appt. It lasted for about a month or a couple of thousand miles (on/off, of course). The squeak/squeal is still there (on/off as well); there’s a TSB about that. I’m reluctant to get that fixed; in the TSB it mentions something to the effect that the part they replace is not an upgrade. That to me translates into same squeaky part. Then again, I might just add it to the list of fixes that I have set for the next oil change and tire rotation: splish/splash noise (sometimes) behind the dash (TSB on this as well); auto power window anything but auto (TSB on this also).
My Contour had “gremlins” the first year or 12,000 miles or so. Almost all disappeared sometime during its life. I’m not happy not knowing what the clutch chatter/vibration was all about. I agree with some who have made the argument that it may be better that the specific unit completely fails so that the proper action is taken to correct the problem (e.g. A/T; A/C). But not all is a total loss. I did learn something from this experience, in addition to what I already new about newer cars. I never knew that the brake fluid is the same for the clutch. Go figure. Now, will this issue ever resurrect? I hope not for at least 150k miles; by then it will be time for a new clutch job anyway or I’ll be in a new car
Finally
Has anyone ever heard of “grounding the throttle body?” Supposedly, Mazdaspeed offers an OE kit for this on the speedsters, but why? Some say the result is smoother starts and take offs. If so, shouldn’t it be grounded anyway (throttle by wire) unless this is sub-grounding?
Wow! That was a lot of rambling even for me. Ahhh, must have been the extra espresso, today.
Meade
If you are blowing 90 degree air after 3 hours the the temp in the garage must have been 90 degrees. Or your Mazda3 has a volcano in the HVAC.
But i have been impressed with the AC, i guess it was a minor change from the 2004 model.
P.S. i finally got my windows tinted (limo in back, 1 shade lighter in front) and that HELPS A LOT!!! Now i can just set the AC on 3 (recirculating) for a couple of minutes then i can cruise with it on 1 (recirculating) all day...i usually freeze out my girl.
On level ground its ok but at the slightest incline or decline,i lose much of my field of vision. Its not too bad in town but driving in west texas at night it was a litle scary taking turns or driving up/down a hill with such limited visibility.
So i am going down a slow rolling hill so my lights were more in the ground and everything more than, say 20 yards, was pitch black. Well in a split second a big dear was lit up by my lights. My woman screamed like she wsa getting stabbed and sprayed redbull all over my new car. I hit the brakes hard 1 time then cut right hard, then back left. Well it was some pretty good driving (if i dont say so myself) but it was scary. Side note...redbull from my girl got into the radio and it started to short. Fortunately, it worked the next day after it dried up..save some sticky buttons.
Sorry for going on so long. but i am wondering if others have noticed this.
Plus i dont like driving in a fish bowl, where everyone can see you. At least i can pick my nose in peace with dark tint
AAAAAAAHHHH .....
AHHHH ... CHOOOO!!!!
Anyone got a Kleenex?
Moral of this story (and there is more than one) is that one could still be seen, even with tinted windows, in the twilight of night.
you should have asked her if she needed help...you could fold down the back seats of the mazda
This is going back several years ago (before MY Mazda). She had all the help she needed from modern science.
I am more confused than ever. Question: If the AC is really bad why hasn't Mazda fixed it? Is there a source where I can get true definitive information about this? The car rates highly except for these complaints. Really appreciate your help on this.
Most Mazda3's have GOOD to OK AC systems
Some do not -
If you get a car that has a weak AC then Mazda will not fix it. Because it would cost the too much money.
If you check it out before you buy - like on a nice hot/sunny 95 degree day and it works good then you should not have a problem.
If AC is important (you live in a hot area plus like a cool car) I sure would not buy one unless I could test it under real hot conditions.
As far as the weak AC posts being from a few people - I agree - the people who say the AC is GREAT is also only a few.
You can check out the other Mazda3 boards - they also have people posting about the weak AC system.
I have talked with a technical specialist from Mazda corporate - he choose his words very carefully - he said Mazda was well aware of the ISSUE - because they had had NUMEROUS customer FEEDBACK about it. What I heard him say was - Mazda knows that some cars have a problem because many customers are complaining about it.
Anyone that tries to claim than all Mazda3's have great AC systems is just plain wrong -