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Toyota Prius: Problems & Solutions
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What replacement tires have you used for Prius? How do they affect mileage and performance? The OEM tires are so bad in the snow that I'm ready to change them out.
We were paying pretty close attention to the mileage and what we managed to get into the tank.
(Bladder problems have gotten worse and I am taking it in for TSB EL010-04 next week. Magic words: "The fuel gauge is inaccurate" and "I can't fill the tank all the way." My vin is slightly before 40057579, so I get both fixes.)
The two events were within a couple of weeks of one another and took place nearly 6 months ago, but I would like to know that the problem is cured rather than in remission. It's a horribly complex control problem, making a prius act like a normal car when you step on the accelerator or the brake.
I would stake my reputation as a beer drinker/rocket scientist that this is a software bug, but apparently Toyota hasn't found the bug yet. Symes did not do a "reprogramming."
I agree, this sounds like a software error. I started a thread for software problems in the Prius:
http://tinyurl.com/5jrae
Under the steering column is a button that turns the SKS on and off. Check to make sure it wasn't hit by accident.
-Brian.
There may be updated maps for the 2002 but AFAIK there has been no major revision to the NAV software itself. Updated map DVDs sell for anywhere from $200 and up depending on your dealer.
You can report it to the NHTSA - insurance companies depend on them for stats. My skepticism that there is anything actually wrong with the car runs very deeply, however.
Just got a Prius last Friday and am still confused about a few things
1. Is the bottom part of the hatchback window connected to the defroster? When I turned on the rear defroster, the top defogged fast, but the bottom did nothing.
2. I'm totally confused about the Consumption display. I drove today about 20 miles over 35 minutes. It began at about 25 mph (it always seems to start low), then jumped up to 50 ish, and at one time jumped to 75, then back to 50. Sometimes, the little car icons appeared (2 of them), other times, only a half of one. There seems to be no relation to MPGs and the icons. Can someone explain this?
3. Can you make the lights on the steering wheel brighter? I can hardly find them at night?
4. Is the MPG average accurate. I filled up today for the first time. My calculations said 37 MPG, but the display had me in the mid 40s.
5. Does the battery ever get fully charged. When I bought the car, it was in the blue zone. It usually gets to one green bar, and only one time have I seen it with 2 green bars. Is this OK?
6. Finally, is there a way where I don't have to undo the compressor every time I want the heat on? I always wind up 'unclicking' A/C, which I assume is the compressor to save energy and improve gas mileage.
Thanks in advance!
2. Air Conditioning vs. Heat: Maybe I wasn't clear on this before. When I turn on the heat, the A/C button is automatically lit. I assume this means that the compressor is working, which, of course, is not only not needed in cold dry weather, but wastes energy. So, I shut off the A/C button and run the heat. Why can't I just run heat wo/ A/C?
Thanks again--in advance.
David
2. The car icons represent regenerated power from the brakes. That's "free" electricity you recoup from slowing or coasting. It is unrelated to the MPG.
4. The MPG readings are somewhat controversial in all these cars. It depends a lot on how consistent you are at the fill-up. If you take 5 tanks and average the result, then average out the display readings, you're likely to see a closer number.
5. It's perfectly normal that the battery not get fully charged. You always want to have some room in the battery in case you get an opportunity for some more "free" electricity, like a big downhill.
6. In the current Prius the A/C is run by an electric motor, so it has a lower impact on your mileage. In the older models it was run off the engine, so turning off A/C did make more of a difference.
Hope this helps.
All Toyotas with climate control will show the A/C light when you put them in Auto mode. This doesn't necessarily mean that the A/C is actually running, only that it is available if the computer decides it's needed. And, if it's below a certain temp., (40, I think) the compressor won't run at all, even if the light is on.
I'm experiencing the very same thing with our 2005 Prius that my husband & I purchased last December 04. Any resolution to the problem? My car is in the shop now for the first time having our 10K maintenance but we've been having this experience just before our 5K (my husband thought it was a fluke). The service people said they've never heard of this problem.
Thanks.
--Daytime Running Lights
--Cruise Control
--Side Air Bags
--Navigation System
--CD player/changer
So, if you have a "package 9" you have a 2004 or 2005.
Anyway, the 2001-2003 did not have a stability control like on the 2004+. There may be an ABS-based traction control but I've never observed it operating. The reports from more wintry locales indicate a decent set of tires will make the Prius very adequate for typical winter driving.
Package 9 was only available in 04. In 05 they decreased the number of packages, so the top package became Package 6, wich is exactly the same as the 04 '9'.
However, the package designators stayed the same, so a 04 'BC' package 9 is the same as an 05 'BC' package 6, and the same for all the other remaining packages.
I sat in traffic last night in Manhattan. I couldn't get through one traffic light for 15 minutes....As I sat there, I watched the battery icon show drainage until there was only 2 bars left. Finally I moved and the battery quickly charged.
Would the battery eventually have drained if I couldn't move? What do I do then? How could I have avoided this. (PS- there were no headlights/heat or radio on).
Thanks.
David
Can you post this over in the "Prius Software Errors" thread? I'm trying to encourage people to post there, to track software problems.
http://tinyurl.com/3u2um
I’m still in the process of trying to exactly localize where exactly the noise is coming from (front, rear, left right or maybe a transaxle-still under warranty). Noisy Bearings are difficult to pinpoint at the onset, only when they get really bad they can be easily spotted. I have no problem with changing a bearing whether it is a front or rear (rear one is pricy-you’ll need the complete hub-it lists at $300 USD, front lists for about $80USD, all that w/o labor). I’ve done this kind of job a few times, what I’m puzzled by is that seems to me that it is somewhat early for a noisy bearing (46K) for a Toyota, although it is not unheard off???
Can someone with a Prius confirm that the owner's manual says it is OK to disconnect the battery? I had understood that both batteries had to remain "connected" (of course you can't disconnect the traction battery anyway).
And, you can disconnect the traction battery via the service plug.
You can charge the small battery in the trunk with a low-amperage charger (under 10A) just watch the current and don't overcharge it.
The owners manual has diagrams showing where the various fuse and circuit breaker boxes are located. There's a fuse block in the passenger compartment on the side of the dashboard (can only get to it when the driver's door is open), and there are at least three additional ones in the engine compartment.
I had a similar problem. I just turned a corner and when I hit the accelerator, the whole dash lit up with error lights including the Red triangle. Couldn't notice all of them. I coasted a bit, then noticed the electric motor was running and it took me the last few hundered feet to our driveway. I tried repeatedly shutting down and re-starting. This seemed to reset the first problem of the engine running, it was fine now, but I still had a few warning lights on. I called the dealer, same answer you got: drive it in carefully as soon as you can. Dealer was flustered and couldn't find anything wrong or explain it. Hear is what I figured out: The engine stopped when I entered the turn as it should. It did not re-start when I hit the accelerator and this turns on the red triangle (and some other lights). Once I turned everything off it all reset except the lights because this was a major fault and required service. I think the lights are over zealous. Bottom line, if the engine ever hesitates in starting, you'll get lots of lights and they won't reset until you see a dealer. Kind of a bummer. It has only happened to me once in 10,000 miles though.
An OBD-II scan tool combined with a reference for trouble codes would tell for sure.
Welcome to the Forum. You are going to have a tough time getting good mileage with those speeds. I would suggest the Honda Accord Hybrid for that kind of driving. It will cost a bit more, but the comfort and power should be more to what you want. I just drove the last leg of a Portland to San Diego trip in a Passat TDI. The last 100 miles was never under 80 MPH. It lowered my mileage by a couple MPG to about 36 MPG for the last 228 miles. The Prius shines in stop and go city driving, not high speed highway trips.
I can think of no modern car, certainly no new car being sold in the US, that isn't perfectly capable of sustaining any speed common on our highways all day long - the Prius certainly qualifies.
Nothing wrong with the Hybrid Accord, of course, but expect to pay at least $30k.
I wonder if it would day after day 120 miles round trip. If the trip was all flat land maybe. That just seems like a lot of stress on that small of an engine. I disagree with your generalization on any new car sold being capable of 80-85 MPH all day long. I just drove 400 miles of mostly freeway that seldom saw speeds under 80 MPH. Up the long grades on 58 to Mojave and several long hills on Interstate 15 I passed dozens of cars that ran out of steam. They drove like a bat out of H*** on the downhill portions.
But considering what a price I got this morning... the battery was cheap.
Yesterday, driving home from work, the check engine light came on. I went by my Toyota dealer this morning where I bought the car. They've done all the maintenance. I was told the only error code the computer read was the catalytic converter was shot. Ok, 169,000 on a converter, 'No bad', I thought, THEN I was told a new converter was $1,600 for the parts and $1000 for the labor. With tax, it will come to about $2,800!!! YIKES!
$1,600 for a catalytic converter?! Is that right?! And a $1,000 for labor?!
Anyone else have to have a converter replaced?
Thanks!
Brenda
A few months back a Lady with a 2002 Prius needed a new Catalytic Convertor @ 90k miles. She was quoted $2100 by Toyota. They have a monopoly as long as the Prius is a niche vehicle. They will charge whatever they can get for the parts. Ask what a Catalytic convertor for a Toyota Corolla costs. I'll bet it is under $100 because they have competition for parts. See link below for a $48 Cat Convertor. It is a Giant Rip-off and this will continue on the hybrids until they become popular enough for the after market manufacturers start supplying parts. Many on this forum would say you have gotten your monies worth out of the Prius and it has reached the end of it's useful life. I disagree with that philosophy. A newer car should go 250k to 300k miles without major expenses.
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw/index.html?mv_todo=return&mv_action=return&mv_session- _id=Mcuk7ViE&model=COROLLA&x=45&y=15
That said, the tC will be quicker, harder-riding, noisier, and much tighter inside. The Prius is roomier, more comfortable, more practical, quieter, and much more expensive. Real world fuel consumption for the tC will be in the mid-20s, vs mid-40s for the Prius. One car is all about style, the other a much more practical use of space - at a price.
I've maintained from the start of the '04 model year that the point of the Prius is often missed by the media, and for that matter, a lot of its potential customers - the car has enormous room inside, and the hatch makes the cargo area practical to use - and the car gets a realistic 45 mpg. By contrast, the tC is all about style - it too is a hatch, but the comparison ends there. It really replaces the Celica in the Toyota lineup, and is a great value at that. Depends on what you want and need, and a good deal on what you want to spend.
Quieter I will give you that, performance, handling, braking I would have to be convinced of. The 2000 Prius I test drove twice was screaming at 75 MPH. I know the Prius II is different. Maybe one of these days I will get to test drive one. None of the reviews I have read raved on the handling, in fact just the opposite. Performance was considered adequate.
Having driven both, I can say either car would do just fine for a one-car family that doesn't exceed the need to seat 4 people comfortably. Sure the Passat handles better, in the sense of being capable of cornering faster. But in every other respect, I see no advantages either way.
I have the appropriate Consumer Reports tests of both cars, and what's surprising is how alike they are, not how different they are.
Anyway, this discussion is really out of place in this forum - I just can't sit still to have the Prius labeled as some kind of city-only econobox - I think you'd find the current body of owners would back me up on this all the way.
As far as top speed goes, in the 2001-03 Prius speed was electronically limited to 102MPH. This is a direct result of the RPM limits set in the computer for the gas engine and the motor generator. The RPM redline is 4500 RPM, so describing it as "screaming" is misleading.
Like anything else, prices should drop as more vehicles use the same technology. Adoption of stricter emissions compliance will drive these catalysts into more models which will increase production volumes.
In any case, losing a catalyst that quickly suggests other problems lurking in the engine.
More research. The Camry is SULEV II rated and a replacement Cat Convertor for that car is available for $233. If the emissions components of a hybrid are so expensive it would pay to have it thoroughly checked by an emissions shop prior to the warranty expiration. I am not sure why the catalytic convertor would indicate other engine problems. I changed the one on our 1990 Mazda last year along with the muffler at 80k miles with no engine problems. It passed it's emission test and only cost me around $150. I don't believe most people bought into the Prius expecting big repair bills after 3-4 years or less if they drive a lot. These two Cat convertor failures had 90k & 169k miles on them. I thought the 90k mile failure should have been covered under the AT-PZEV emissions 8 year 100k mile warranty. I don't think that lady ever posted her attempt to get Toyota to pay. She was already unhappy with a $600 charge for some sensor on her 2002 model Prius.