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Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!
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Comments
I started to notice the pulsing just after 20K, and these were 99.9% hiway miles. I feel they should have lasted at least 60-70K with the light duty they got.
I didn't even tell the dealer as I was not willing to listen to their fairy tails.
Keith
However while I'm glad I have had no brake problems, when the time comes to replace the pads, or if problems do occur, based on comments here, I will immediately get ceramic pads and highest quality rotors (slotted?) I can afford. NO DEALER or reworking of the DC parts. mopar67 taught me that..
p.s. with fuse box transplants, idle issues and a crank sensor blowout.. I have had my fill of dealer waiting rooms.. working on my own QC in my garage is MUCH better
Just my .02 worth :-)
Travis
To date:
Drvr side rear pwr window motor replaced.
4x4 selector switch recall
squeaking over bumps, sway bar bushings replaced
flap on center console broke, Center console replaced
pulsing brakes, rotors turned
seat belt bolt recall..
now popping noise and brakes again. fix TBD
I love the truck and it functions great for what I wanted it for. the milage is getting better and it is fun to drive. will I buy anothor Mopar product? That remains to be seen. So far, I am less than pleased regarding how many times I have had to have the truck in the shop in less than a year.
Brett
Thanks for all your help!
william
Otherwise the flat New Orleans highway driving I do (alot, since I now have 35,700 miles) might be a factor. My tires (T&H package) still show virtually no wear, which makes my checkbook happy. Oh well.. I have had my share of maintenance issues, so I'll take what I can get.
my .02 worth again..
Oh yeah, a road trip to North Palm Beach Fla (where I'm from...)Wed for a few days.. so I'll be giving my QC a workout and get some good highway mileage metrics..
ABS computer is much faster than you can process and feel. And as far as the brake fade is concerned, your probably lucky your wheels didn't catch fire after 10 extremely hard stops in succession. I'm a pilot and on jet aircraft you have something that is called brake energy and each aircraft has brake energy limits. When you have exceeded brake energy limit by an aborted takeoff the aircraft must sit a certain amount of time to allow for sufficient cooling prior to attempting to stop again. I would say that you exceeded your "brake energy limit" and probably glazed over the rotors and pads. The temps got so high that you actually melted the material and when it re hardened it did so with a glass like surface....very smooth....low friction....bad for brakes....Anyway you might want to have them checked out for any damage.
I think your dealer is blowing sunshine up your you know what about your tranny being built by someplace called Aron. MAtter of fact, they are built in Kokomo Indiana courtesy of a $$1 billion additon added to the complex in 1997. Your dealer refuses to service your trans? Get on the horn to Chrylser asap and raise a little cain. It makes know difference who built what on your rig, Dodge sold it to you complete as a unit, therefore they are reponsible for making good on any defects.
Good luck.
This tranny has solenoids within it that make this ticking sound as they calibrate themselves. As long as you ALWAYS use the proper chrysler fluid in this tranny at each PM (see owners manual) it should be somwhat reliable.
Please do not call this annoyance a "PROBLEM". A "PROBLEM" would be a wheel falling off or perhaps a a piston rod coming thru the side of the engine block. Noises are never a PROBLEM... they may be a symptom to a problem... but in this case it is not even that.
PM= Preventive Maintaince service
If you have not allready... go to www.tirerack.com and use their selection guide to assist you in your decesion.
The tirerack.com website is one of the best on the net when it comes to user-friendlyness and ability to compare products in every possible way. There is even customer feedback on many of the tires.
The Dakota is a real TRUCK ... not one of those toys. The best ANYONE has ever reported with this configuration is about 20MPG. (and that was with the 5SP manual tranny)
How many miles are on your rig? Are you aware that many folks have reported MPG improves as more miles are racked up.
typical in town, once a week to the bar travels nets 14.3 in city, a trip back to the Hoosier state at 65-70 nets approx. 18.2, best ever was 19.4.
2000 CC 4.7, auto, 4WD 31x10.5x15 tires and tonneau cover.
97 CC SLT 5.2 Auto 3.55 Brilliant Blue/Silver
01 CC SLT 4.7 Auto 3.92 LSD Flame Red/Silver
I am curious... you mentioned that your dealer was "lubing" the front suspension. Just EXACTLY what are they lubing? There are no servicable parts on the new-style 4WD front end. (Starting in 2000)
The only "squeek" I have on my front end is on the passengers-side and intermittant. It seems to be subtle while traveling slowly thru parking lots over dips. (Just while there are folks around to hear it.) The outside temparture seems to affect it too.
There have been some folks report that pulling the swaybar bushings and using rubber grease on them fixed their 'squeeky' front end.
Bottom line: A noise may be irritating but is NOT a problem.
Today my truck rolled over 3000 miles, and I wanted to change the oil myself.. No biggie. But I could not, for the life of me, remove the oil filter. I have numerous cuts and scrapes because of the 3" hole you're supposed to be able to fit your arm through and get leverage, meanwhile keeping the oil fitler wrench from slipping off. In any event- has anyone been able to get the oil filter off for the first time? What did you do?
THe band style wrenches are good when you have clearance but as you already know, there just ain't much under there.
Maybe someone here has advice on how to get the entire plastic shield out of the way?
Every additional filter I've put on has come off quite easily. I generally don't gorilla-hand on the new filters, just tighten them up a bit, and they come off pretty easy.
The thing will come off with that. (Th one on my new 4.7 was really on there) Do not get a plastic one as they aren't that great. Also I would NOT drive a screw driver through the filter cause if you still can't get it off you got a major headache. Just take the few minutes ot go to AutoZone or Pep Boys or your local auto supply store to get one of those metal caps in the correct size. Bill in NY
For those with skid plates and oil change messes and for those that just want the convenience check this little goodie out. Place a hose on the nipple and drain into a container and not onto the skid plate. This and the 2 liter Pepsi bottle trick when changing the oil filter will eliminate lots of mess.
For info Fumoto oil drain valve go to:
http://www.fumotovalve.com
For sizing on various vehicles go to:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/merchant.cfm
Buy from Summit Racing for $19.99
Bill in NY
Bookitty
Bill in NY
Some of us got lucky and got a good one,some of us were not so lucky and got some problems. I got most of mine fixed; my issues go beyond assembly and fit and finish. My issue center around design of brakes and transmission. ON the later, I did have a choice to get a manual but did not. So I have to live with my decision, can't undo that. But on the former, I had no choice on brakes and trusted dodge to use quality parts designed for the vehicle, not for a Neon.
THe dealer has been pretty good in helping me thru these problems and has tried mightily to fix things. Heck, they even replaced rotors and drums and pads and shoes AFTER the 12K limit! So, I have a lot of praise for the dealer.
At any rate, your comments are best directed towards DC directly instead of here. ALlwe can do is say yeah, I agree or no I don't agree. We can't make you like your truck if you don't want to. You need to deal with it and get on with life and get a vehicle that suits you. Maybe a Toyota is right for you. Who knows? The only way to find out is to buy one and see how it goes.
Sure, my dakota has been into the shop more in 2 years than my Honda has been in 11 years. But the Honda is rusting badly... My extensive research tells me that the body on my Dodge will LAST longer than any truck from the point of view of RUSTING. I can replace brakes in my driveway but REFUSE to do bodywork.
You mention Nissan... My last truck was a Nissan. It ran great... but the holes in the bed were large enough to loose a 55gallon drum thru them. You mention Toyota, these rust even WORSE than Nissan.
You are correct about the automatic on the Dakota... again, my research told me to stay away from it and I am glad that I did. Just the recommended PMs would bleed my budget dry.
I have my eye on the plastic-composite truck-beds that Ford is starting to use. (BUT I WILL NEVER OWN A FORD!!)
I guess I am saying that there are trade-offs when choosing ANY vehicle and my Dakota was the best choice for me. (Sorry that you were disapointed with yours and I trust that your Tundra will please you.)
We don't even know if this person actually owns a Dakota! It could be a 12 year old girl who loves Toyota's just looking for a rise out of somebody!
OK, sorry, now I'm the one who is ranting.
By the way, I finally found my "upshift indicator light". It doesn't work on the 4.7L manual, but it is indeed there. First tank of gas 16.5 MPG. Not bad.
Mike
2002 4X4 QC 4.7L manual, 3.92 LS.
oh, and I do know how to use a dictionary, spell check AND this website.
Now I stay nice and calm.
Then I take off in the Dak, and WHOA!~~~~ there's that **#*#*# slam on the 2-3 upshift! Coffee goes on lap and seat and yours truly goes off.
Not a pretty sight, mud and a pissed off driver.
just my .02.. well that and $4.75 wil get me that 6-pk my cooler needs to remail full
Beer not included!
the very first day I picked up my truck. I had about 25 miles on it when in the same day I
picked it up, I took it back saying it was pulling to the right. I was told to drive it, get use
to it and they checked the tire pressure. Was told it was the tires. Didn't help. O' it stopped
for a little while. Also on the first day I told them that my oil gauge was not working
right. It took four trips to a five star dealer to get the oil pressure gauge fixed. All the time
I was telling them about the front-end making noise and pulling, plus by that time summer
was here and my ac was not working right. I wrote and called dodge twice. I was very
nice and said all I wanted was them to fix it right the first time. Couldn't get that lucky.
You must understand that I use my truck everyday and can't be without a ride. Very, very
busy. Most of my problems getting it fixed was because of the dealer, but Dodge was not
doing anything about it. All I wanted was some true answers. I wanted to go to a different
dealer that I knew would get it fixed or give me a good reason why. The thing about that
was, I could only get a rent car from the dealer I bought the truck from and I could not go
without a ride. After talking to Dodge last week, my truck has been in the shop going on 4
days now. No answers yet. Someone I know said they are most likely are going to rebuild
the brake system and front-end with all new parts but, did not know far sure. It took
13,000 miles and 8 months to get this far. Hows me spelling a grammar. I did the research
with no indication of problems. Now many people are having the same problems. What
really gets to me is all the reviews still does not relate to any of the problems people are
having. I always here how tough Dodge is, so why and I like the neon version of the
brakes, did Dodge build such a lousy brake system, front-end, transmission that needs
service about every 20,000 miles and windows that scratch going up and down, plus all
the popping noises. Many people have had these problems. Like I said, I have many years
and miles on Nissans and Toyota with no problems. I take that back, I've had to replace
the tires about every 40,000 miles and once I had to replace the spark plugs at 115,000
miles. O' and I did change the oil every 6,000 miles. I guess I got spoiled by quality. I also
have another Dodge that I have never had much problem out of. Its a '94 full size, 318,
auto. Had one warranty problem, about 10 recalls that never gave be a problem. Replaced
water pump at 100,000 and my bed is breaking welds now. No front-end, brake,
transmission or power window problems. Dam the luck. As for as Nissan or Toyota
rusting out. Never had that happen and have put over 100,000 on each with the longest
ownership of 8 years. Have a friend with two Toyota trucks over 10 years old. No rusting
and one has over 200,000 miles, the other almost 400,000 miles and that one he had to
replace the head. Dam the luck again.
By the way, I am not a 12 year old wanting to get a raise out of somebody. I'm 44 and
have a D/C. How would you like me to prove it. I have communicated my issues in a
proper way, now I am mad. All the problems I have had, they at Dodge, have no record of
,except for the oil gauge replacement and told me they will not have a record of
complaints unless something was replaced. They don't even have a copy of the 2 letters I
sent. Maybe because I wanted them to take back this truck. Didn't even get my order right
from the factory. As farrrrrrr as me grammar aanndd spelling, never been good at that.
Shouldn't be hold a gainst me. Know what I mean. That tells me someone thinks thiererer
beetter than me. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know when something is wrong and
not being fixed. I guess I should hire a writer to talk and write for me so they will think I
am someone important and maybe I will get results. Quality is the main issue with Dodge.
Now I know why they only offer 3/36. I'm posting all this because people have the right to
know what is going on before spending their money and time and maybe with enough
attention Dodge will have a recall on some of the problems that will cover us after the
warranty is out or maybe they will at the very lease make changes in the up coming years.
One change I can't understand is why they changed the motors and transmissions in the
full size. I really like the size, power, and looks of dodge but quality is a problem. I know
I'm venting again. Next time I want write such a long letter. I am not mad at anyone in this
form, but I am mad at the reviews at this site. We are here to help each other, knowing
and venting is part of it. If you can't handle the truth then don't read it. Sorry to all if I got
out of line. All the things I said today I forgot, I also have a problem with the Q/C dying at
times. About the complicated mechanical devices and they are not perfect! You are right. Tell me this, why are Nissan and Toyota much more dependable. We have been building autos longer than I have been around. Don't you think its time to get it right before making any major changes.
You will have to replace the stuff eventually so why not just do it from the get go and be done with it?
I was lucky I suppose in that the dealer agreed to replace my brakes with 20K on the clock. I would venture a guess that a lot of dealers would say too bad so sad, read your manual buddy 12,000 or 12months, whichever comes first.
So I took a chance with re engineered pads and shoes which are supposed to shed heat better. We will see. But if I have probs in the future, its aftermarket for me.
As far as quality, cheaper materials are always favoured over more reliable materials and it makes me sick. The bean counters and the suits in purchasing truly run the show (I should know, I've worked as an release engineer at suppliers for the "big three" and foreign car companies for 8 years). There are the same problems across the board and It's a shame because the end customers are always ourselves. Roll in all the union issues, NAFTA, employee turnover and luck and I truly think it's a crap shoot when someone buys a new vehicle. People will argue about Honda vs. Ford or whatever, but if you truly want quality (not as some [non-permissible content removed] buzzword or a manager's pet project) then you have to buy into the high dollar car companies. It is as simple as that.
MOPAR67: What aftermarket brake equipment have you investigated? If that's all I have to worry about on my QC, then I will consider myself lucky.
http://www.frozenrotors.com/raceproven.htm
Also the following URL should be in EVERYONES truck bookmarks. This website is easy to locate many items like Cat-back exhausts as well as brake parts.
http://www.truckperformance.com/
http://www.jcwhitney.com/
Just changing to their Titaniumti (about $30US) brake pads alone will virtually ELIMINATE that black dust on the front wheels. They are LIFETIME GAURANTEED too.
Of course, NAPAs best pads meet all these criteria too... at a slightly higher price.
JCwhitney also has several different brake rotors available too.
Changing brake pads is easier than changing the SPARKPLUGS in the 4.7LV8 hemi. (and cheeper too!!)