Thanks bpeebles et al. the 3.9l was my choise over the bigger bores because of anticipated long hauls and desired gas mileage. Sure wish you fella's were around to listen to before that decision but after my next trip through the Rockies I'll let you know how it pulls without using the cruise. Should be back in about 2 weeks. By the way the first trip wasabout 1800miles through mountains and the 3,9l gave 24mpg breaking it in. That is a little less for the smaller US gal. It should improve now the engines broken in which makes it a fairly economical motor for you guys thinking of one. The truck rides a little stiff but so far everything works as advertised and maybe the dealer is right and in really hilly country I should just shut off the cruise. See ya then!
We have a similar problem to ronaldgoose in post #57. We have a 2000 3.9 V6 5M sat AC with about 11,00 miles. We are keen to hear if you resolved the problem. Every 2-3 weeks lately the shifter will not go into gear - any gear! (except if you shut off the engine -then no trouble) we have had it into the dealer 4 times and usually by the time it gets there everything is fine. The last occasion the mechanic notice that there was pressure in the hydraulics even after the engine was off and when he removed the cap, oil poured out. The apparently replaced the master cylinder and all was fine for 2 weeks and it returned. this time on the highway in busy traffic - not fun trying to turn of the engine to shift and then restarting just to get off the highway.
If any one else has had this problem I'd love to hear any suggestion since we are not comfortable to take the truck on a trip. (Other than that we love the truck. (apologies for the long post
I got a 2000 4.7 ext.cab slt dakota and for those who have experienced the problem I am about to describe, please reply. My truck's engine rev really high in first gear when it is cold. However, once the truck shifts into second gear, I don't experience the problem anymore unless I park with the engine off for more than an hour. Is the engine design to where it does not allow harsh take-off when it is cold or do I have a problem that needs mechanical attention.
Has anybody gotten any better than 16.5 mpg with their 2000 4.7 Auto Dakota Extended Cab? This is the best I have gotten on a trip where I set the cruise at 70 and I went over 100 miles with the tranny in cruise and never once shifted out of crusie. I have a topper on it but the box was empty.
I have gotten as high as 21.5 traveling on a 2 lane blacktop doing a steady 55. The best I've managed cruising at interstate speeds 65-70mph is about 19.2 and this is on basically flat to mild hills here in the midwest. Sweet spot for mileage, at least on my Quad appears to be 55 to 60mph. Mileage starts to drop off seriously above 65, I guess because the Dakota has the aerodynamics of a garage door. Mine is a 2k Quad, 4.7l and 5 speed. Rick
I've hit 19.2, 18.8 18.6 respectively on 400+ miles of interstate travel to Indiana. 4.7 club cab, 45RFE running between 65-70 with AC on. Add ons>>>>>tonneau cover and K&N air filter. Final note (not accusing) I run brand name gas, never "cut rate" stuff regardless of how much cheaper it may be. What you save at the pump, you pay for in mileage and potential repairs down the road. I have about 17K on the truck. When it was new, the mileage was lousy but over time, it has improved a lot. I can get 14.5-14.9 in town.
I've only got 850 miles on my rig (01 4.7, multi, 3.55) and have gotten 15.9 mpg each fill-up. I must admit that I have babied it pretty much (an occassional burst), but I have no need to go fast. I've been too busy enjoying the ride.
My daily commute is approx 19 miles comprised of 6 miles rural interstate 8miles of interstate (65 - 70 mph) and 5 miles city. I come to a stop approx 10 - 13 times each trip and have several long hills to traverse.
Overall, I'm pretty happy with the mileage concidering it's just now getting broken in.
I would like to get 20 on long trips as i imagine that I will have several 800 milers per year.
I was sweating the mileage thing after trading my '97 v6 club for a '01 4.7 quad (both 5spd/2wd). The v6 always got between 18-21 mpg. I just had my first chance to check mileage on the quad today and was elated to find I got just a hair over 20 mpg. Granted it was mostly highway driving between 55-65 mph, but I couldn't be happier considering the performance difference between the two engines.
There is a TB on the 2000 Dakota #130100, I believe, that talks about hearing a "flunking, or popping" sound coming from the front suspension when going over bump areas of the road. If you go on NHTSA.com and go under "suspension", it will talk about it. It almost sounds like the wheel is loose or the suspension is not solid. I personally have this noise but only hear it turning left coming from the passenger side front wheel suspension. Turning right does not make me hear the noise no matter how many bumps I go over. The dealer has checked it and they replaced the torsion bar anchor which there, I guess, was a TB on. It DID NOT solve the noise. I need to know if anybody else with full time 4WD or part time 4WD has experiences with this noise and if you do, has your dealer given you repairs for it?? Hanks for your help.
I don't know if this is the same, but I have a 2001 DAK with AT and AWD. Often when I hit a small bump, I hear a sound similar to having a rock in a hubcap. I think it is coming from the passenger side front, but am not sure. Do you know if there is a TB on this?
I have a 2wd Quad and mine will do that same noise every day I pull in to my driveway. I have seen them talk about it on this board before and everyone says that the dealership tells them its normal for Dakotas. Has anyone out there went to the dealership and actually get it fixed? Or at least get a honest answer that they dont know what it is.
I don't know the cause of the noise on the Dakotas as I don't have it on my Quad. However I did have a vehicle in the past that made a grinding/clunking noise making a sharp right or left turn while going over a small bump at the start of a driveway. What happened in my case was the suspension has two surfaces that make contact (supposed it) when the suspension is at the extreme of its turning travel. Then when you hit a bump the 2 surfaces rub and make your metal on metal clunk or grinding sound. The cure for this was to grease the "bump stops". Rick
My 00 QC 4.7 auto 4x4 3.55 is running between 16.5 to 18 on the daily commute 26 miles round trip in warmer weather. Now has 11500 on it. Took 900 mile trip back when had 2 k on it.It did 18 to 19 with 6 passengers and rear full of luggage. Will be taking same trip early July, now broken in should be better. FOR sure winds make a big difference as does speed. Go over 65 and it drops off. Nick..
There is a TSB on this. I believe it's #130100 on the NHTSA.com website. Go under "suspension". It explains that other 2000-2001 dakota owners are complaining of this same problem. And the description of the noise is right on the money. I will grease up the bump stops like the other owner advised but it probably won't fix the problem. I think it is something deeper than that. And DrDakota, I too have the AWD and A/T so I hope it doesn't have to do with that. Next oil change, I will print up the TSB and ask the dealer if there is a fix to this nagging noise. Usually with TSB's, they won't fix it unless you complain about it.
I took my DAK into the dealer for a 4WD recall today. Asked them about the noise and gave them your TSB number plus a couple of others. It turned out the noise was coming from a heat shield on the muffler which was not put on properly from the factory. So far (approximately 50 miles) no noise. The service manager said they have had a few DAK's with this same problem.
After they re-programed the 4WD system, the truck seems to run smoother too.
DK, I have never seen over 18.5 MPG until I recently installed a tonneau cover. In fact, historically my local MPG (at 55 mph) matched or exceeded my highway MPG. I have the 2.55 tires with the 3:55 axle LSD, and 4.7 w/Auto. Since putting on the tonneau, my tank mpg has seen 20.2 mpg- and that was through the mountains of Penn state.
On a recent 2,500 mile trip to NJ and back, the trip average was 20.0 or so!!!! And that was at 70-77 mph, depending on the state I was in. In the past I only saw 17.5-18.0 at interstate highway speeds of 75-80. Basically, it appeared that the more I exceeded 60 MPH, the worse the MPG I got! Not any more!!!
I have tracked and graphed my mileage in a spreadsheet since I have owned the truck. I track mileage by: the tankfull; average over previous 5 tankfills, and; also track the MPG since purchase (now @ 25,000 + miles).
Pre tonneau- overall mpg (over 25,000 miles)was at approx 17.8 mpg. Now, the overall is on the rise again, thanks to the tonneau!! I am currently at 17.98 or so. Also, my local MPG increased to almost 19 mpg.
I am now a believer in Tonneaus regardless of the type or model. If you are interested, I can send you my tracking spreadsheet so that you can see the data for yourself- just send me a direct e-mail.
Is that recall for all 2000 dakotas and how did you find out about it? So they fixed that clunking noise for you just by you giving them that TSB number? IF so, that's great, I'll have mine in for it then real soon!! THanks.
OK I made the 1500mile return trip last week through the rockies and following you guys advise this time, I cliked off the cruise control in the hilliest terrain. The auto-trans responded excellently with smooth shifting. the power is really lacking in the 3.9l but the gas mileage was over 27mpg (Can) compared to you guys out there with your 4x4's at only 16-20. I think the mileage can only get better as the engine is new and my math is done hauling a good load at about 60-65mph. Hope this helps those deciding on their options as I am real happy with a little less HP in exchange for great mileage. So far the 2001 Dakota is a great buy for its intended purposes.
hey, did you figure the milage or did you let the overhead computer tell you (if installed)?
although mine is right on the money, i see alot of these computers being way off. i have a friend with a minivan and he averages something like 6 mpg by his computer, way off by the way LOL...
Robert, I simply left Edmonton with a full tank and added up the gallons when i got back and devided that into the miles i drove. don't forget our Can gal is a little bigger than your US gal. My truck has no overhead computer etc as the the a/c and auto trans are my only extras. I have since wired in fog lights because of westcoast climate driving. don't try this yourself though as ford has made this an almost impossible task in order to spite you for not paying them to sell it pre-installed at their exorbitant rates.
Yes macon1 your Can Gallon (imp) is 1.201 US gallons which brings your 27 mpg down to 22.5 mpg US which I think is outstanding. I had it in my head that Canada was on the metric system and your gas was sold in liters and distance measured in km's.
i thought the same as bluebelle. i am still surprised at 22 mpg. the best i have ever gotten with the 4.7, auto, 3.92 rear is aobut 17 mpg. wanna trade trucks? LOL...
Must make a quick appology to ford drivers as I unintentially said my truck is a ford when it is a dodge dakota. Yeh, you guys are right about the metric up hear but some of us prefer some of the old ways. And yes the mileage is exceptional. Just to let you know I didn't have to turn on the a/c or headlights on my trips as sun is up from 5am to 10pm up here and were having a cool summer.But yes i did average the 60-65mph. smile!!
Glad to hear your trip went well.About your fog lights an easy way to hook them up is to tap your parking/running light wire and run a wire to the foglights this allows you to turn on your fog lights using the headlight switch,I did that on my truck and the 3 trucks before this one takes about 5 min to run the wire.
(lariat1) Did you use this connection to pick a relay that, in turn, connects the fog lights to the battery?
If not... your fog lights were current-starved. If one wishes to "get the light one paid for", high-current fog-lights need to be powered directly from the battery.
Any fog-lights I have seen come with the relay right in the box along with wiring diagrams.
My fog lights are only 55w apeice so that is not a problem,if I decide to put the 100w bulbs in them I will install a relay under the hood. BTW how do you "current starve" something? Either your conductor can handle the load or the conductor burns up. A 55w buld drags a conservative 6A a 100w bulb draws 10A assuming a 12 volt system. Normally the limiting factor when installing lights are the switches. Most automotive switches are rated at 15A where a relay is 30A.
( lariat1) Your statement Either your conductor can handle the load or the conductor burns up is totally false. There is no "specific point" where a conductor will "Give up" and burn to a crisp. Actually, as more and more current flows through a conductor... it begins to warm up. This is a function of the inherent resistance of a given conductor. Physics tells us that more heat creates more resistance so as more current flows, the heat buildup is logarithmic.
The quality of the insulation on a wire is the determining factor when it begins to break down due to the heat. Cheap wire uses plastic insulation that melts at a relatively low temperature. There are many "grades" of wire and all of them specify the characteristics of the insulation.... not the conductor itself which is a simple wire-gauge.
For the safety of the folks that follow this forum... Please understand that the ratings on a switch or a relay are absolute maximum limits. Beyond these limits there is a fire hazard. Wire is MUCH more tricky to 'size' for the job because the length has to be considerd as well as the gauge.
To answer your question...how do you "current starve" something?
For foglights, if you measure the voltage at the bulb and it is not over 12 volts....then it is current starved. (The resistance of the wiring and associated circuitry is excessive.)
A more proper way to take this measurement is to measure from the battery+ to the bulb+ . The resultant reading is the voltage drop in the positive side of the circuit.
BTW... Your math is a little fuzzy...(P=I/E) 55/12=4.58Amps (not 6Amps)
BOTTOM LINE; If you always use a heavy wire guage for your fog lights .... all of the other stuff becomes a moot point. No heat concerns. (plus your foglights will put out more light too!)
math was not fuzzy I said a conservative 6A Sounds like you to are familiar with OHMS law. As a rule I always size conductors conservatively, the NEC say 125% I use more when possible, A 12 gage wire is rated at 30A max as per nec. Line losses are negligible when runs are under 300' heat buildup can be a problem but not in this application as there is only a 10A increase in load.If you are going to install 100w bulbs then a like I said a relay is a must. Also remember that anytime an electrical accessory is installed an inline fuse is required for protection of the electrical system. My method is used as a shortcut so no holes are required to be drilled into the firewall.For the people out there that are going to wire in lights the best thing to do is can the wiring that comes with the lights and use XHHW wire it is good for -40F to 190F temperatures and damp locations.
Rick like I said it is a CONSERVATIVE 6A keeps you from burning things up. I am an electrician I always use conservative ampacities to size circuits.
bpeebles, that is an interesting link I use the NEC and according to chart 310-17 a 16 gauge wire is rated at 24A at 194F and ambient temp of 86F wonder why there is such a difference.
I do agree with both of you though a 55w buld in a 12 volt system will not draw 6A but I like the leeway.
Perhaps the NEC (National Electrical Code) is concerned more with AC-60Hz RMS.(Root*MeanSquared)The power factor is also a consideration with AC. (Synchronicity of CURRENT to VOLTAGE)
Since DC is (by definition) a CONSTANT voltage, the allowable ratings for a given wire gauge may be differ than those calculations specified for RMS AC voltage.
Since this is not an "electricity" forum... I will close this thread here... I promise 8-}
I have a 2001 Dakota QC 4x4. I live in So.Cal and my truck is driven 1-4 times a week (around 25-50 miles each time).
Whenever I switch from AC to normal Air, and particularly after using the AC, I get a nasty rotten stink from the blower vents. (it is there for a moment when AC is first turned on, and after blower has ran for a while without AC on, the smell is gone)
Any idea what would be causing this ?
Can I fix this problem myself ?
If I have to take it in to the dealer, any idea what they would do to fix the problem ?
Wow, hearing that brought back memories of air vent stink...I've had critters die in the engine compartment...then ya smell em later.. Stunk like heck.Living on a farm ,,you woult not imagine how mice or cats like to hang in the compartment SInce ya mentioned you did not have daily driving..?? unless it smells like rotten eggs,, thats a sure sign of a catalytic exhaust leak.. Take a good look under the hood..if its an animal,,you'll find the smell...Good Luck, Ger.
You guys are pros...is $10,500 a good deal for this? Truck belonged to my bro-in-law who just suddenly passed away. Car has had excellent maintenance. I would like to buy it if you folks think its a good deal. Please share your thoughts here or email me at:
is usually caused by mold spores during the beginning of warm months in a calander year. Pollen and mold spores from germination become airborn in significant quantities and over several years.
When the AC is nice and cold they are not typically airborn, but when the AC shuts off and the ductwork starts to warm up again they will make themself known to your nose. This is even durther aggravated by moisture in the vents mixing with the smelly entities.
What about spraying a chlorine (bleach) type spray such as is used for cleaning kitchen surfaces? I make my own by adding a capful of common household bleach to water in a spray bottle and it is supposed to kill bacteria, molds and such.
I purchased a brand new 2001 Quad cab 4x4 with the 5.9v8.It's got 17,000 miles I have never towed anything with it. There was a recall on the 4x4 switch, which was re programmed 2months back...
No problems....
Got the oil change last week and as soon as I got home and put the transmission on reverse. I heard this loud "CHUG" then metal grind... Had it towed to dealership 2 hours later...
Service adviser said "tranny" went out.... Is this common with 2001 Dakotas? Or did I get a LEMON? Signed, Very Upset Dakota owner
I'm no expert, but in following these topics for a few months, I haven't seen much regarding transmission failure. I would put your question on some of the topics as well such as Quad Cab, and Maintenance.
That stinks about the tranny. I have the manual tranny without any problems so far. Some people say that dodge auto tranny's are problematic. Your tranny failure seems premature to me. The warranty should cover it though.
Aren't the auto transmissions on the 3.9, 4.7, and the 5.9 different from one another? Are the auto transmissions on the 3.9 and the 5.9 more or less the same vintage versus the computer-controlled unit on the 4.7?
the auto with the 4.7 is the 45RFE and the 5.9 gets the 46RE and the 3.9 gets the 42RE. The 45RFE is a totally new design (and not my favorite automatic from Chrysler)
Bobs5>>>>>yes, I have to agree with you that CHrysler pissed away a strength they once had in the design and enginiering of their automatics (727, 904, etc)SUffice it to say, they have a poor record with automatics today. Based on the way my 45RFE shifts, I expect it to self destruct anytime. Matter of fact, I pray daily it will so I can have the dealer come get it and replace the eintire transmission. I'll also have the satisfaction of telling the smart aleck technician that no, its not "functioning as designed" Then I'd have him bend over so I can take his work order and.....well you get the idea. Should I buy another Dodge truck, I'll go the route bpeebles and others did and get a five speed.
I have a 4.7 2000 Dakota with the 45RFE automatic transmission. I listen in wonder about all the complaints about the 45RFE. I have found this transmission to be far superior to the one in my 91 5.2 Dakota. Mine has seemed to get better with age and I am very happy with it. I'm sure there are others out there with good experiences with their 45RFE autos also. Let's here from you! I'm tired of hearing only the bad news about the 45RFE.
Comments
If any one else has had this problem I'd love to hear any suggestion since we are not comfortable to take the truck on a trip. (Other than that we love the truck. (apologies for the long post
Does it "sound" like a high rev of the engine, or do you see the tachometer actually go high.
Bob
If you rev a bit higher /longer, the silicone-filled clutch will disengage due the centripetal force.
This is completely normal function. I'll bet you have not driven many vehicles with belt-driven fans ;-)
4.7 club cab, 45RFE running between 65-70 with AC on.
Add ons>>>>>tonneau cover and K&N air filter.
Final note (not accusing) I run brand name gas, never "cut rate" stuff regardless of how much cheaper it may be. What you save at the pump, you pay for in mileage and potential repairs down the road.
I have about 17K on the truck. When it was new, the mileage was lousy but over time, it has improved a lot. I can get 14.5-14.9 in town.
My daily commute is approx 19 miles comprised of 6 miles rural interstate 8miles of interstate (65 - 70 mph) and 5 miles city. I come to a stop approx 10 - 13 times each trip and have several long hills to traverse.
Overall, I'm pretty happy with the mileage concidering it's just now getting broken in.
I would like to get 20 on long trips as i imagine that I will have several 800 milers per year.
Blue
CHRIS in VA.
After they re-programed the 4WD system, the truck seems to run smoother too.
I have never seen over 18.5 MPG until I recently installed a tonneau cover. In fact, historically my local MPG (at 55 mph) matched or exceeded my highway MPG. I have the 2.55 tires with the 3:55 axle LSD, and 4.7 w/Auto. Since putting on the tonneau, my tank mpg has seen 20.2 mpg- and that was through the mountains of Penn state.
On a recent 2,500 mile trip to NJ and back, the trip average was 20.0 or so!!!! And that was at 70-77 mph, depending on the state I was in. In the past I only saw 17.5-18.0 at interstate highway speeds of 75-80. Basically, it appeared that the more I exceeded 60 MPH, the worse the MPG I got! Not any more!!!
I have tracked and graphed my mileage in a spreadsheet since I have owned the truck. I track mileage by: the tankfull; average over previous 5 tankfills, and; also track the MPG since purchase (now @ 25,000 + miles).
Pre tonneau- overall mpg (over 25,000 miles)was at approx 17.8 mpg. Now, the overall is on the rise again, thanks to the tonneau!! I am currently at 17.98 or so. Also, my local MPG increased to almost 19 mpg.
I am now a believer in Tonneaus regardless of the type or model. If you are interested, I can send you my tracking spreadsheet so that you can see the data for yourself- just send me a direct e-mail.
CHRIS
although mine is right on the money, i see alot of these computers being way off. i have a friend with a minivan and he averages something like 6 mpg by his computer, way off by the way LOL...
would love to hear from you.
robert
My truck has no overhead computer etc as the the a/c and auto trans are my only extras. I have since wired in fog lights because of westcoast climate driving. don't try this yourself though as ford has made this an almost impossible task in order to spite you for not paying them to sell it pre-installed at their exorbitant rates.
robert
If not... your fog lights were current-starved. If one wishes to "get the light one paid for", high-current fog-lights need to be powered directly from the battery.
Any fog-lights I have seen come with the relay right in the box along with wiring diagrams.
The quality of the insulation on a wire is the determining factor when it begins to break down due to the heat. Cheap wire uses plastic insulation that melts at a relatively low temperature. There are many "grades" of wire and all of them specify the characteristics of the insulation.... not the conductor itself which is a simple wire-gauge.
Check out this URL for more info on wire ratings.
http://www.sacelec.com/Current_Ratings.html
For the safety of the folks that follow this forum... Please understand that the ratings on a switch or a relay are absolute maximum limits. Beyond these limits there is a fire hazard. Wire is MUCH more tricky to 'size' for the job because the length has to be considerd as well as the gauge.
To answer your question...how do you "current starve" something?
For foglights, if you measure the voltage at the bulb and it is not over 12 volts....then it is current starved. (The resistance of the wiring and associated circuitry is excessive.)
A more proper way to take this measurement is to measure from the battery+ to the bulb+ . The resultant reading is the voltage drop in the positive side of the circuit.
BTW... Your math is a little fuzzy...(P=I/E) 55/12=4.58Amps (not 6Amps)
BOTTOM LINE;
If you always use a heavy wire guage for your fog lights .... all of the other stuff becomes a moot point. No heat concerns. (plus your foglights will put out more light too!)
bpeebles,
that is an interesting link I use the NEC and according to chart 310-17 a 16 gauge wire is rated at 24A at 194F and ambient temp of 86F wonder why there is such a difference.
I do agree with both of you though a 55w buld in a 12 volt system will not draw 6A but I like the leeway.
Since DC is (by definition) a CONSTANT voltage, the allowable ratings for a given wire gauge may be differ than those calculations specified for RMS AC voltage.
Since this is not an "electricity" forum... I will close this thread here... I promise 8-}
I have a 2001 Dakota QC 4x4. I live in So.Cal and my truck is driven 1-4 times a
week (around 25-50 miles each time).
Whenever I switch from AC to normal Air, and particularly after
using the AC, I get a nasty rotten stink from the blower vents.
(it is there for a moment when AC is first turned on, and after
blower has ran for a while without AC on, the smell is gone)
Any idea what would be causing this ?
Can I fix this problem myself ?
If I have to take it in to the dealer, any idea what they would do
to fix the problem ?
Thank You All !
Ole
Take a good look under the hood..if its an animal,,you'll find the smell...Good Luck, Ger.
I would like to buy it if you folks think its a good deal.
Please share your thoughts here or email me at:
rascal2064@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Rascal
When the AC is nice and cold they are not typically airborn, but when the AC shuts off and the ductwork starts to warm up again they will make themself known to your nose. This is even durther aggravated by moisture in the vents mixing with the smelly entities.
and it is supposed to kill bacteria, molds and such.
Bookitty
No problems....
Got the oil change last week and as soon as I got home and put the transmission on reverse. I heard this loud "CHUG" then metal grind... Had it towed to dealership 2 hours later...
Service adviser said "tranny" went out....
Is this common with 2001 Dakotas?
Or did I get a LEMON?
Signed,
Very Upset Dakota owner
See what some of the others have to say.
Some people say that dodge auto tranny's are problematic.
Your tranny failure seems premature to me. The warranty should cover it though.
The 45RFE is a totally new design (and not my favorite automatic from Chrysler)
Bobs5>>>>>yes, I have to agree with you that CHrysler pissed away a strength they once had in the design and enginiering of their automatics (727, 904, etc)SUffice it to say, they have a poor record with automatics today. Based on the way my 45RFE shifts, I expect it to self destruct anytime. Matter of fact, I pray daily it will so I can have the dealer come get it and replace the eintire transmission. I'll also have the satisfaction of telling the smart aleck technician that no, its not "functioning as designed" Then I'd have him bend over so I can take his work order and.....well you get the idea. Should I buy another Dodge truck, I'll go the route bpeebles and others did and get a five speed.