Currently has 42000 miles, got it with 26000 miles (Thats 16000 miles since 3/28 last year ) Problems have been few, never major and usually my fault, but the dealer has covered them! I average 10-14 MPG, mainly because I m a sucker for being pushed into the the seat at full throttle LOL. I actually got as high as 22 MPG on a long highway trip. It has been great, quick, and handles like a champ! It also has taken great to mods! Take care of it, it'll take care of you. I am hopefully picking up a 4.7 Dakota, another R/T or Ram SS/T in the next few months as the 99 R/T is now my little brothers.
I have a 1990 Dakota pickup 2wd that refuses to start unless I fiddle with the gear selector. It either doesn't start at all, no clicking, nothing, or it will engage and start the engine. The battery is new. Is this a starter problem, or switch? or something else...
It sounds like the switch to me. Not an uncommon problem with a vehicle 10 years old. Should be a pretty simple fix for the mechanic.
At least that would be the 1st thing I would check. I had that "problem" on an older car, I just fiddled with the shift lever each time cause I was too lazy/cheap to fix it.
D/C 5 star dealers are the worst service people I have ever dealt with (including the gas station that charged me $600 for two used fuel injectors for a 91 Grand Am)
I have a 99 Dakota is a 3.9 2WD 5sp. My average mileage is 19 in the summer, and 14mpg in the winter. My 99 F-150 4x4 gets 14mpg all year round. I use only high quality synthetic oil, and at minimum 89 octane gas. Our Dakota has been in 4 times for the grinding noise that people have been complaining about in other messages. I was finally convinced by an Ford tech that this was a clock spring, and nothing to worry about. However, I am unsettled by the volume of the noise, and that extra bump in the steering while braking. I have had the exhaust changed twice, and the ABS recall was completed. They have never been able to figure out why my front speakers do not work unless the e-brake is engaged (acompianied by a large pop). I have only one circuits class in my life (I received a C-), but even I know that this is a short.
I have gone to three different five star dealers, and each give my a different lame excuse about the same complaint. It would be nice if they actually read the other service orders in the computer before they lied to me. The average wait time I have had for any service is 4 days. Only once was I given a loaner, and that was after I yelled for a long time.
Diamler/Chrysler will never make a profit until their service department shapes up. I had service problems with the Dodge Avenger I traded in for the Dakota. I would never buy a D/C product again until I was convinced that they can repair their products. Five Star Dealers make you diagnose your own problems, which is why they are incapable of fixing any problem. For example, my speaker short problem... I told them my speakers pop when I press the e-brake. They replaced the e-brake, but never tested the stereo because when I picked it up, the speakers did not work.
I then said maybe the amp is shorted? They replaced the "amp" which is a lie because the amp is inside the dash unit which still has my initials carved in it. I finally yelled loud enough, and they replaced the wire harness. However, the driver power window creates a horrible buzzing in my speakers every time it is adjusted.
I encourage every one who reads this to not purchase any D/C products, and if you currently own one to trade it in. If that is not possible, force the dealer to make the correct repairs, and on time. If they fail this simple task, get an lawyer, and pursue the lemon law. Do what it takes to make D/C financially responsible for their horrible products. This will force them to either shut down operations, or to fix their broken repair process
That has been my only complaint over the years with Chrsyler products. The products are good but the dealers service is really poor. Luckily for me I have few problems that require going to the dealer. Ususally when new there are a few trim issues and nothing "real".
Hang on to your Dakota, find a non-Chrysler service dept to work on it and you may find that in the end you will love the truck.
The dealers just don't do anything. I'll give you a short example. On a 99 Stratus, whenever the gas gets lower than an 1/8 tank and it is caold it is hard to start. The things to look at include the filter, fuel pressure. Both are fine. Next pull the pickup from the tanl and look for pin holes in the weld where the tube connects to the pick up. This happens with automatic welders . The dealer refuses to pull the pick up saying Chrysler won't pay it. So I have been living with it. Thankfully I am trading it in as soon as my Dakota 2 gets here.
Get a stereo expert to look at it. It sounds to me like somewher the E brake is catching a wire and either shorting it out or pulling it enough to break a connection.
Hi I'm a first time user of this service, so bear with. I have a 2000 AC with a V6/sad. 5 speed. Recently I've been experiencing difficulty getting it into gear. This went on for two week until this weekend when the problem would not go away and the only way to get it into gear was to shut it off. It would creep with the engine running clutch in with the transmition in gear, and was very difficult to shift into all gears especially 1-2. If the truck was idled at a light with the clutch in for a long time a vibration would start up in the drive train.
Its at the dealer now and I will make sure they go trough clutch/cranny well. I say all this to forewarn any of you who may have similar problems to make sure your service center replaces your clutch disc at minimum as this problem is most likely caused by the clutch not fully disengaging, this causes the disc to wear which won't show till your out of warranty. This problem was intermitent at first with no set pattern as to when it would occur. Otherwise its a great truck and I'm satisfied with it.Has 23,000 kms./13,000 miles.anyone out there have similar troubles? Thanks. RG
Were you experiencing grinding of the gears? This would lead me to believe that the clutch was not fully disengageing. Possible air in the hydraulic system. If it were hard to put in gear, then it is probably a linkage adjustment. Hope all goes well for your truck and please let us know of the outcome.
I just bought a 2001 Club cab and was wondering if anyone could offer input on the automatic locks. Can this feature be disabled? If no one is riding in the passenger side and I am picking someone up I have to remember to unlock the doors before they can get in. Does anyone like this feature? Also, I have a low whining noise in the transmission at speeds of 35-40mph. Not sure whether thats just the way it is or not. I also notice the truck rolls forward or backward depending on which way I was going when I shift into park. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it normal?
79 of 79 15 mph Automatic Door Lock Deactivation/Activation (2001 Owner's Manual Typo) by skylerk Mar 27, 2001 (01:43 am) The instructions for turning on and off automatic door locking above 15 mph on pages 13-14 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual are incorrect. To get the correct instructions, all you have to do is change step 2 so that the phrase "... ending in the ON position" instead says "...ending in the OFF position". In case you don't want to go dig out your manual, here are the complete, corrected instructions which I have verified to work on my 2001 Dakota (the word in green/bold is the one which needs to be changed in the manual): 1. Close all of the doors. 2. Place the key in ignition and cycle the key from the OFF position to the ON position for a total of four times ending in the OFF position, do not start the engine. 3. Press the driver's side power door lock switch to lock the doors within 30 seconds. 4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed and the automatic door locks feature will be deactivated. 5. To activate the feature again, follow the above steps again
I have a 2000 Dakota Club Cab, 4.7 V8 Auto cranny with 13,500 miles. Basically I have been pleased with the vehicle's sophisticated brute strength and ability to pass cars that insist on traveling 15 miles below the posted speed limit.
Today for the first time I had to pass several slow cars at one time. I punched the accelerator pretty hard and without realizing it I was approaching 100 MPH when all of a sudden the engine seemed to shut off. When I slowed down to 80 the engine was running again. This is the first time I pushed my truck up to that speed (accelerated to 100 MPH). Has anyone else experienced that same situation? Please advise.
I am looking at a used 1997 Dakota Sport 52,000 km (65,000 miles) How do these engines/ transmissions stand up in COLD country? How is the heater? Fast warm up?? Is the A/C the old freon ? Any experience with changing to the new stuff?
ANy help appreciated -- not much Dodge action here-- a real GM town!
I have a 2000 dakota quad cab. Everytime I put the heater on I get a distinctive oder of fresh anti freeze. I don't see any leaks or wet spots but I did loose half a gal. somewhere. I am calling service in the morning. I was just wondering if anyone had the same problem. I hope that I don't get the poor service that I've read about in the posts. Truck only has 9,000 miles on it.
The truck is a 95 dakota ext cab 4x4 with a 318 and 47000 miles. it started running rough ,took it into dodge dealer , could not find anything wrong. Went on a trip, it would do 70 mph for awhile then slowly go down to 50 mph, would pull over and it would idle fine.Take off it would do 70 mph then down to 50 mph, did this 4 times. Took it back to dodge dealer, they say plugs and wires are bad, they replace them , still doesn't change anything. Then they said its a bad head on drivers side. They replace that ($1024.00) , took truck on a trip , truck completely died out on way home.Still doesn't run well. What does everyone think?????
You might even try another dealer if this particular one can't figure out your problem. Did they scan for any computer codes? I have a bad feeling about the shop your using because they seem to be changing parts without any sucess.
Yes, I feel the same way , with technology today , just plug in pull codes off and repair. Or even put a few gauges on and test different pieces????? Now they say the fuel pump is bad $549.00 fix. They said they will not charge for the fuel pump but head charge is in effect. Questioned why the head need to be replaced, no crack 3 cylinder valves were pulled. They said 2nd and 3rd cylinder compressions were low and they had had problems with the heads. Better to replace it. AAAAAAAAAAAAARRRGGGGH!!!!
I would try a fuel filter, had something similar happen in the past. A partially plugged catalitic converter or too much back pressure would also give similar symptoms. Rick PS why was the head so expensive? I bet for what you paid you could almost get a rebuit motor from NAPA.
I've never paid much attetion to the Dakota since I own a '92 Ranger and have had NO major fixes. I'm casually looking at trading it in. I found this '98 3.9 V6 5sp manual with 22000 miles. I drove it and really liked it. Asking 14500. I don't need a work horse, just like the options a truck bed gives me. What do you think? And is there anything specific I should look at?
Like iowabigguy, I had an exhaust system that was partially clogged on my last car. The engine would lose power and buck with heavy acceleration. Good luck
Chris, see post # 300 under Dodge Dakota Owners Club Cab. Same price for a 2000 with V8. mileage roughly the same. I have no way of comparing actual condition and all options involved (2000 may have automatic transmission), but based on the fact that this is a newer truck with V8 power, your truck is priced too high. Contact Jeff and get some details. Print out his post and stick it under the nose of whoever is trying to sell you this truck. The 3.9 would not be my choice (as well as the choice of many others on this forum) as you get less power for the same or more fuel consumption. Best of luck. Don't hesitate to contact any of us on this forum. We are a friendly group and there is lots of information available.
They now say the fuel pump is bad, $350. Would not pay for both fixes , dodge said they will give me the fuel pump , but I have to pay for the head. Asked what was really wrong with the head. They gave me the head with the 3rd cylinder valves pulled. Valves look good ,spring are not broke,head has no cracks and isn't warped. Dodge side cyl 2 and 3 had low compression and dodge has had problems with these heads..... hmmmm
hahahahahahah bobs5,,you're killing my sides...hahahahhaha' HEAVY ACCELERATION WITH A "K" CAR !! HAHAHAHAHAHHA Is that when ya find out the liquor store is about to close? hahahahahhahaha take care, let me know how the new rug fits..later. Ger
I just picked up my factory-ordered 2001 Club Cab SLT V8 Forest Green on Tuesday the 8th. Today, the 12th, after about 200 miles had been put on it and having it for less than a week, the wife took it out and noticed oil spewing out of the engine. She had to get it towed to a dealer where it's sitting til Monday morning.
Nowhere near enough info. Could be something as simple as the dipstick coming loose or a loose oil filter; or something serious. Were you able to look at it? Of course oil squirtage is no good and definately shouldn't happen, but it might not be serious. unless the squirtage was caught too late, in that case all bets off...
Got the truck back today. I have an automatic tranny and it was the engine oil that was spurting. I was not there when it happened and it had to be towed so I wasn't able to check it out. The oil valve was not sealed properly but all fixed now...I hope.
Glad it's all fixed up, but pardon my ignorance; what the hey is the 'oil valve'? Do you mean the seat for the drainback valve in the filter? Is there a valve in the oil sytem? Never heard tell o' that..
I was going to ask the same question. Heard of valves and I've heard of oil. Want to get this straight because some of us have autos and some have manual trannys but we all have engines.
Just wondering if anyone else has had the paint peel off in large patches on the top surfaces of their Dakotas. It started about 4 years and looks like the top paint and clear coat does not adhere to the primer paint. We are not in a acid rain belt and we don't have a lot of hot days in our location. Any solutions or contacts will be appreciated. Thanks
Yepper, I just sold my 91 the same day I picked up my 01 quad. Seemed sometimes I would wake up and see another complete blotch of paint gone. It appeared that some may have started from a scratch, and I had a couple of 1-3 inch blotches and 1 ~ 5 inch blotch of paint gone also..Primer paint looked good underneath. Again I state that it appeared that there was a deep scratch on the paint first then that area paint would come off,,peel off over time..Since it was only my quick replacement truck till I got my newer one, I didn't do anything about it..I had the truck for ~ 9 months..and didnt have any big paint pieces fallen off before i bought it, but a lot of smaller ones. which the previous owner just painted over it with touch up..
Back in the early 90's including 93 Chrysler as well as others had serious paint problems. There was a problem with the primer. In fact in 93 Chrysler had a recall in all states except California about peeling paint. I have a friend who a few years ago on her 2, 93 Dodge Caravans had the problem. Her husband found out about the recall and even though they were in California got Chrysler to redo their vans.
In your case it may be too late to do anything. I don't know how long they can be considered legally responsible.
Absolutely !! I have a 2001 Quad and have the same condition. I brought it in for service and they could find no problem. The dealer indicated they did a pressure check, the results being normal. I can't however, believe the odor is normal.
just wondering how accurate everyone else's thermometer is in the computer. Mine seems to be reading approx. ten degrees to hot most of the time. is there an easy fix? or is a dreaded trip to the dealer in my future. Also, every time I start my 2000 Dakota (4.7) for the first time in the morning, it runs for about 5-10 seconds then the RPM drops down below 500 and either dies or comes very close to dying before kicking back up and is then fine. Any advice would be helpful.
Just bought the new truck and have problems with the cruise control when hitting steep hilly roads. It either does not come on smooth (it jerks suddenly into lower gear) or it fades and I need to put down the gas pedal and sometimes it seems to want to con't accelerating when it does come on. All this is explained by my dealer as normal and I should not use cruise in hilly country!? I believe there is a chip in the trannie that takes awhile to adjust to my driving but I have 3000+ miles on it now. Hope someone has some good advise
sorry to tell you guys the new truck has a 3.9 Automatic 4X2 with no extra gearing/heavy duty features. believe me it runs great but as a previous Ram owner with Auto and Cruise this ones has me stumped! Please advise.
Here is a simple test for you to try. Drive over the same hilly route with the cruise control off. Try to maintain a set speed, just as you're expecting the cruise to do. I will guess the truck will act in the same manner as with the cruise on. Cruise is most effective on roads that you could normally maintain a steady speed without too much change in accelerator position. Steeper grades make this difficult. The xmission will downshift based on throttle position and rpm to keep the engine from lugging. Turning the overdrive off on this type of terrain helps.
the main problem may be the engine. it may not have enough oomph to get the truck up the hills in overdrive or 3rd so it automatically shifts into 2nd to accelerate. I had the same problem with a 97 f-150 that had the 4.6 it would always shift into 2nd on hills. that is the reason I know have a ram w/360 that does not downshift on hills.
Thanks bobsyvee and lariat1 for your info. What both of you says makes a lot of sense from my experience so at least i am no longer thinking big repair bills. I drive from Edmonton to vancouver through the Rockies 1500 mile return each month so I shall try out your ideas on my next trip. Sure seems my Ram 318 was the best engine for pull ever built the more I miss it... compared to this new 3.9l Dakota! Anybody out there good at math and can tell me how many cubic inches in 3.9l?
Thanks for the quick math guys! So I am really missing some power in the Dakota's 239-240Cu.in. compared to the Ram 318! When you consider the loss of 78cu.in. thats a lot of power to go missing in mountain country. Makes you laugh at Dodge for the pictures of their Dakota's climing those outdoor trails like they was goats. haha. Still the engine is a smooth one so I will let you all know how my next trip goes before the end of June. Thanks again out there!
Actually, the "power" is not missing... just in another place. (higher RPMs) Technically, the 4.7L V8 Hemi can produce MORE power than the ol' 318.
What I mean is that the 4.7L V8 Hemi is tuned differently than the ol' 318. With a less torque being produced, the power is now generated at much higher RPMs. Right around 3000 RPMs, there is a very sharp increase in power which can be easilly felt.(20-30 HP gain) Below 3000RPMs, the 4.7L produces less torque than the 318... thus less power.
Since POWER = TORQUE X RPM we can see how this all fits together.
If one has the new automatic xmission that is DESIGNED for the 4.7L V8 Hemi. This xmission is supposed to keep the engine in the proper RPM range for the load and throttle position.
Ill bet your choice of rear end ratio has an effect on how the new xmissin interacts with the crusecontrol going up hills.
bpeebles: Good description of the 4.7L V8 Hemi, butI believe macon1 said he has the 3.9L V6, which is certainly underpowered in comparison to the 5.2L V8.
Comments
Brian
At least that would be the 1st thing I would check. I had that "problem" on an older car, I just fiddled with the shift lever each time cause I was too lazy/cheap to fix it.
I have a 99 Dakota is a 3.9 2WD 5sp. My average mileage is 19 in the summer, and 14mpg in the winter. My 99 F-150 4x4 gets 14mpg all year round. I use only high quality synthetic oil, and at minimum 89 octane gas. Our Dakota has been in 4 times for the grinding noise that people have been complaining about in other messages. I was finally convinced by an Ford tech that this was a clock spring, and nothing to worry about. However, I am unsettled by the volume of the noise, and that extra bump in the steering while braking. I have had the exhaust changed twice, and the ABS recall was completed. They have never been able to figure out why my front speakers do not work unless the e-brake is engaged (acompianied by a large pop). I have only one circuits class in my life (I received a C-), but even I know that this is a short.
I have gone to three different five star dealers, and each give my a different lame excuse about the same complaint. It would be nice if they actually read the other service orders in the computer before they lied to me. The average wait time I have had for any service is 4 days. Only once was I given a loaner, and that was after I yelled for a long time.
Diamler/Chrysler will never make a profit until their service department shapes up. I had service problems with the Dodge Avenger I traded in for the Dakota. I would never buy a D/C product again until I was convinced that they can repair their products. Five Star Dealers make you diagnose your own problems, which is why they are incapable of fixing any problem. For example, my speaker short problem... I told them my speakers pop when I press the e-brake. They replaced the e-brake, but never tested the stereo because when I picked it up, the speakers did not work.
I then said maybe the amp is shorted? They replaced the "amp" which is a lie because the amp is inside the dash unit which still has my initials carved in it. I finally yelled loud enough, and they replaced the wire harness. However, the driver power window creates a horrible buzzing in my speakers every time it is adjusted.
I encourage every one who reads this to not purchase any D/C products, and if you currently own one to trade it in. If that is not possible, force the dealer to make the correct repairs, and on time. If they fail this simple task, get an lawyer, and pursue the lemon law. Do what it takes to make D/C financially responsible for their horrible products. This will force them to either shut down operations, or to fix their broken repair process
Hang on to your Dakota, find a non-Chrysler service dept to work on it and you may find that in the end you will love the truck.
The dealers just don't do anything. I'll give you a short example. On a 99 Stratus, whenever the gas gets lower than an 1/8 tank and it is caold it is hard to start. The things to look at include the filter, fuel pressure. Both are fine. Next pull the pickup from the tanl and look for pin holes in the weld where the tube connects to the pick up. This happens with automatic welders . The dealer refuses to pull the pick up saying Chrysler won't pay it. So I have been living with it. Thankfully I am trading it in as soon as my Dakota 2 gets here.
Get a stereo expert to look at it. It sounds to me like somewher the E brake is catching a wire and either shorting it out or pulling it enough to break a connection.
Its at the dealer now and I will make sure they go trough clutch/cranny well. I say all this to forewarn any of you who may have similar problems to make sure your service center replaces your clutch disc at minimum as this problem is most likely caused by the clutch not fully disengaging, this causes the disc to wear which won't show till your out of warranty. This problem was intermitent at first with no set pattern as to when it would occur.
Otherwise its a great truck and I'm satisfied with it.Has 23,000 kms./13,000 miles.anyone out there have similar troubles? Thanks. RG
Were you experiencing grinding of the gears? This would lead me to believe that the clutch was not fully disengageing. Possible air in the hydraulic system.
If it were hard to put in gear, then it is probably a linkage adjustment.
Hope all goes well for your truck and please let us know of the outcome.
Thanks, Towman
79 of 79 15 mph Automatic Door Lock Deactivation/Activation (2001 Owner's Manual Typo) by skylerk Mar 27, 2001 (01:43 am)
The instructions for turning on and off automatic door locking above 15 mph on pages 13-14 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual are incorrect.
To get the correct instructions, all you have to do is change step 2 so that the phrase "... ending in the ON position" instead says "...ending in the OFF position".
In case you don't want to go dig out your manual, here are the complete, corrected instructions which I have verified to work on my 2001 Dakota (the word in green/bold is the one which needs to be changed in the manual):
1. Close all of the doors.
2. Place the key in ignition and cycle the key from the OFF position to the ON position for a total of four times ending in the OFF position, do not start the engine.
3. Press the driver's side power door lock switch to lock the doors within 30 seconds.
4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed and the automatic door locks feature will be deactivated.
5. To activate the feature again, follow the above steps again
Bookitty
Today for the first time I had to pass several slow cars at one time. I punched the accelerator pretty hard and without realizing it I was approaching 100 MPH when all of a sudden the engine seemed to shut off. When I slowed down to 80 the engine was running again. This is the first time I pushed my truck up to that speed (accelerated to 100 MPH). Has anyone else experienced that same situation? Please advise.
Thanks,
George
Bookitty
52,000 km (65,000 miles)
How do these engines/ transmissions stand up in COLD country?
How is the heater? Fast warm up??
Is the A/C the old freon ? Any experience with changing to the new stuff?
ANy help appreciated -- not much Dodge action here-- a real GM town!
I have a 97 and an 01. No problems. Cold or hot. The older tranny likes to be warmed up a bit on cold start up. After a few minutes it is fine.
Good luck
PS why was the head so expensive? I bet for what you paid you could almost get a rebuit motor from NAPA.
Good luck
your truck is priced too high. Contact Jeff and get some details. Print out his post and stick it under the nose of whoever is trying to sell you this truck. The 3.9 would not be my choice (as well as the choice of many others on this forum) as you get less power for the same or more fuel consumption. Best of luck. Don't hesitate to contact any of us on this forum. We are a friendly group and there is lots of information available.
Bookitty
HEAVY ACCELERATION WITH A "K" CAR !! HAHAHAHAHAHHA
Is that when ya find out the liquor store is about to close? hahahahahhahaha
take care, let me know how the new rug fits..later. Ger
There is something very wrong with this picture.
Seemed sometimes I would wake up and see another complete blotch of paint gone.
It appeared that some may have started from a scratch, and I had a couple of 1-3 inch blotches and 1 ~ 5 inch blotch of paint gone also..Primer paint looked good underneath.
Again I state that it appeared that there was a deep scratch on the paint first then that
area paint would come off,,peel off over time..Since it was only my quick replacement truck till I got my newer one, I didn't do anything about it..I had the truck for ~ 9 months..and didnt have any big paint pieces fallen off before i bought it, but a lot of smaller ones. which the previous owner just painted over it with touch up..
In your case it may be too late to do anything. I don't know how long they can be considered legally responsible.
Dakota (4.7) for the first time in the morning, it runs for about 5-10 seconds then the RPM drops down below 500 and either dies or comes very close to dying before kicking back up and is then fine. Any advice would be helpful.
You may find more info in the Dodge Dakota Owners - Maintenance Topic forum.
We'll fill you in on our oddessy with the fumbling cold idle.
Here is a simple test for you to try.
Drive over the same hilly route with the cruise control off. Try to maintain a set speed, just as you're expecting the cruise to do. I will guess the truck will act in the same manner as with the cruise on.
Cruise is most effective on roads that you could normally maintain a steady speed without too much change in accelerator position. Steeper grades make this difficult. The xmission will downshift based on throttle position and rpm to keep the engine from lugging. Turning the overdrive off on this type of terrain helps.
Jim H
Still the engine is a smooth one so I will let you all know how my next trip goes before the end of June. Thanks again out there!
Technically, the 4.7L V8 Hemi can produce MORE power than the ol' 318.
What I mean is that the 4.7L V8 Hemi is tuned differently than the ol' 318. With a less torque being produced, the power is now generated at much higher RPMs. Right around 3000 RPMs, there is a very sharp increase in power which can be easilly felt.(20-30 HP gain) Below 3000RPMs, the 4.7L produces less torque than the 318... thus less power.
Since POWER = TORQUE X RPM we can see how this all fits together.
If one has the new automatic xmission that is DESIGNED for the 4.7L V8 Hemi. This xmission is supposed to keep the engine in the proper RPM range for the load and throttle position.
Ill bet your choice of rear end ratio has an effect on how the new xmissin interacts with the crusecontrol going up hills.