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"SACO, Maine (AP) — A Maine man and his car are celebrating a million-mile milestone.
Joe LoCicero (luh-SISS'-er-oh) was given a 2012 Honda Accord at a parade in the city of Saco on Sunday after surpassing the million-mile mark on the odometer of his 1990 Accord. He reached the milestone last Thursday.
A Honda spokeswoman tells The Portland Press Herald (bit.ly/otOqd1) it's the first time the manufacturer has documented an Accord reaching one million miles.
LoCicero says he bought the car in 1996 with 74,000 miles. The former mechanic did much of his own work. The secret he says is following maintenance schedules, using quality parts and driving safely.
He swears the transmission and engine are original.
Now that he has a new Accord, he's not sure what he'll do with the old one."
I'd like to know because the same thing has happened to my 1993 Honda Accord EX:
- Car stalled while driving (immediately after exiting highway), would not re-start
- Needed new distributor and coil - replaced these
- Car stalled again while driving (again just after exiting highway), would not restart
- ECU fuse was blown, but mechanic cannot determine the cause (distributor and coil are still OK this time)
- Replaced fuse - car now drives OK around town, but have not tried highway for fear of same problem recurring.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
I have a 1990 Honda Accord Lx with 194k miles on it currently. When I went out to go to work the other night (it was cold and raining) The car would not start. It turned over and tried, but it would not start. I left it alone for the night and when I came home in the morning, I tried to start it again, same issue. Then when my grandfather got home he opened the hood, and we noticed that when cranking it over, you can see sparks right where the distributor cap and rotor are. It was dark outside, but it was kind of like you could see sparks through it. Its hard to explain. But I was wondering if anyone has had this problem before or if anyone has an Idea to what I should look at? Thanks
Still don't know why the distributor broke.
Mrbill
On another note the radio is not working. It was an after market cd player. We got a new radio, installed it, and it dosen't work either. Both radios have power and all the buttons worked, but no sound comes out of the speakers. One of them had a bass meter that appeared to work, following a beat, but no sound. Any ideas on this one?
Thanks for you help and patience!
Check Engine Light - is it flashing or just on? If it's just on, could be an O2 sensor (part of the emissions control system)
Radio - sounds like a poor connection between the radios and speakers or something isn't properly grounded. With none of the speakers working, I really doubt the problem is with the speakers themselves.
My 1991 would start when warm, or if I put a drop light against the distributor housing for an hour. Tell-tale sign would be, when the car won't start the CEL is on, and stays on when key is turned on, but if it goes out after a few seconds after turning key on, your ignition control unit is going bad. If CEL light not on,mine would start fine, but if light stayed on after other lamps go out, would not start.
When i'm driving most of the time, the car feel as if it doesn't want to go when I am pressing on the gas petal. It feels like something is clogged, what might that be? It's been doing this for awhile now...
I'm guilty for not getting regular maintenance on my vehicle.
Also the check engine light comes on, and there is another light at the bottom right of the dash board with the letter S that flashes too. What does that mean?
Oh, and when I am driving my car tends to get really HOT under the hood, more than usual. It gets so hot that I can see heat vapors coming from the hood. Not WHITE SMOKE or anything, so I don't think I have a problem with the radiator, and the needle in the car that registers the hot/cold is always FINE, it stays pretty much below the half mark.
And last but not least, the speedometer needle drops when I am driving, and sometimes just stop moving...
I appreciate any help, or questions I can get...
Thank You,
Tamelah
Ever get one of those shopping carts that wobble when you push them---same idea--the alignment caster is way off on the wheels.
At this point I am extremely confused. I'm thinking that their is either a faulty connection, or the computer for the car (beside the ATC unit) is bad.. In which I'm really hoping it's not because I know they are very expensive. Does anyone know anything I can try, or what my next step might be?
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I'm not really seeing the relationship between these codes and a starting problem at the moment, unless maybe your gearshift position switch is defective---in other words, tellling your car's computer that you are in "drive" when you try to start the car. This is also called the neutral safety switch.
But this comment relates to a car that doesn't "crank".
If the starter motor spins over but the engine won't fire, you might have another issue:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/a/honda_hot_start.htm
1993 Honda Accord EX Coupe
Engine Type: 2.2L L4 SOHC 16V
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive
It has been running pretty good until Saturday.
I am hoping someone can help. My husband is stumped, we called the dealer, they have no idea. We cannot afford a trip to the dealer or anyone else. My husband and a friend know how to repair cars, just this has everyone scratching there head.
It went into "Limp" mode and the temp gauge was reading hot. The car is not running hot. It goes from cold to hot even when first started. We changed the sensor for the fan, temp sensor for the gauge and the one for the ECU, we reset the computer, the temp gauge works when manually tested. It is still reading hot when you turn the ignition key on. We checked all the grounds and they were fine.
We have been told to change the instrument cluster. I am not sure this is needed because the gauge worked when checked manually. If so does anyone know how to get the thing out.
We are stuck, not sure what else to do. HELP!!!! Please, lol. :confuse:
The guy at the Honda dealership said he'd only ever sold one of these pads in all the time he's been there. Now if you can't get the OEM replacement, I suppose you could super glue(or use some other adhesive) and get the same diameter round piece of a similar material of the same thickness(about 1/8") and glue it on, but if the glue lets loose at anytime in the future for whatever reason, you'd be in the same situation with the brake lights staying on. I don't know how many models or years use this set-up, but this is the first time I've come across it. It makes you wonder what would have happened if my friend or his daughter took the car to a garage and was told yes, it IS the switch and replaced it for a lot more than the 30 bucks I would have spent if I needed it, only to find out that they needed to replace that little pad to make it work. A less than honest garage could have made a killing on this less than 5 minute repair. It took me longer to go to the Honda dealer and back than to pop that pad in. Just another "FYI" for all you Honda efficianados! Have a Blessed day!!
I have a 1993 Honda Accord 10th Anniversary Edition.
http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/honda-1990-1995-obd1-code-r- etrieval.html
mrbill
Thanks in advance
In that case you have to drill it out in such a way to get an extractor tool in the broken stud.