My mom bought her '98 Infiniti QX-4 new in 06/98. In this past year I've learned to HATE this car. I've brought the car to the dealership atleast 10 times in the past year. I've brought it to a dealership 65 miles away b/c it was in a larger city and they might see more QX-4's. The code when brought to Autozone reads EVAC / short-circuit condition. The past 9 months we've replaced the battery, the battery terminals (3x), the gas cap, two gas canisters, can smoke through the fuel system and done other tasks assoc. with this issue. The last two times the dealership said nothing is wrong with this vehicle and charged us $200 to turn off the light. I guess now is a good time to mention that my mother won't drive her car with a malfunction indicator on. Also the car was the really beautiful green color until the clear coat started peeling off. Infiniti's responce "The car was painted", which it wasn't. We brought the car because it had every option and was this really beautiful color. Our service advisor said that the VIN# states the car should be gold not green, but if you look at the under carrige, under the hood, and behind the door panels it's the same green color as the exterior. So I think it's very very very unlikely this car has been painted from gold to green. Our service advisor also stated "I see that alot with Infiniti's". WHAT THE HELL???? The paint color is one of the things listed in the VIN#. EUGH! I felt that I would never deal with a company as unprofessional as General Motors, but Nissan/Infiniti has proven that they are. After this We're going back to Mercedes and Jags...
If you're thinking about getting an Infiniti save some money and by a Kia; the Kia might just prove to be a better car.
I completely share your frustration. I am in Denver, Colorado. We have two Infiniti dealers in town. Both compete for who can provide worse service. It is not as much about the car as the dealers. I took my car a few months ago to the East side dealer for them to take a "look." They billed me $110. For what? No services, no replacement, no advice; I came poorer. You infact feel scared.
I have two Nissan products, a Maxima and a Murano and I get excellent service from our local Nissan dealer. My vehicles seldom if ever have any mechanical problems. but the small issues have been attended to quickly and fairly. I have noticed that many Infinity owners come to this dealer for service. It is true that Nissan dealers can not do Infinity warranty work, but they can do the rest. Give this option a try.
I have a 1998 QX4 that I have owned for 4 years. Ever since I purchased the car, it has had a noise in the driver's front suspension. The noise recently became more frequent so I had the suspension inspected. Several parts were replaced and the noise breifly quit. When it began again, I replaced the strut thinking it had gone bad. Upon replacing the strut, I noticed quite a bit of rust in the middle of the fender well. Upon further inspection, I found that a weld seam which runs across the middle of the fender well had rusted out and the weld seams running up to the shock tower have come apart. The car is now not drivable as the sheet metal has pushed into the steering rack and the master cylinder. Of coarse, because of the age and mileage (145,000) Infinity will not do anything about it. Has anyone else had a similar issue?
Hello All - I recently purchased a 2001 QX4, and in the last couple weeks of weeks, the Service Engine Soon light has come on and off and on again, etc. Also, it would occasionaly idle a bit rough, or would lack response when pressing the accelorator.
I took it to the local Infiniti service center here in Santa Monica, and they told me that the Airflow Meter needs replaced, and recommended a "Fuel Induction Servicing".
I have read all the threads in this forum regarding the SES, but have not seen or heard of anything regarding the Airflow Meter. Any thoughts? Does this sound right? What are the odds that even once they fix this, I will need a series of other things done to correct my problem?
I don't know what either of these really mean, or what benefit the latter would serve. Any suggestions?
It is easy to clean the airflow meter yourself. I haven't done it on my QX4 but on my RX300. It is expensive to replace it. Normally it does not break but just gets dirty. A few $ of some cleaner will fix the problem.
I would not let dealer perform any additional recommended service unless I know absolutely necessary. the more you let them do the more stuff needs service, that's the way they make money (not always of cause).
I'm in Los Angeles and I'm selling my 2001 Infiniti QX4 in titanium silver. It only has 48,700 miles. The car is in excellent condition (Interior,Exterior, Mechanical and Structural). I am the original owner (non-smoker) and this car has really been babied. I purchased it at Glendale Infiniti and the car has a factory extended warranty until Sept. 2008. It has never been in any accidents. Brand new tires and registration is paid until July 2009. I have all books and manuals, it's always been serviced at an Infiniti dealer. It has never been used for towing, although it does come with a tow kit. I'm asking $13,500. Let me know if you are in the area and are interested.
I have an ERR2 sign that comes up on my stereo. Now, i've read in other threads that the replacement of the stereo by the factory or otherwise costs around $600. If i'm going to spend that kind of money, i might as well get an aftermarket head unit w/ bluetooth, etc. (especially since the implentation of the "hands-free" law in CA)
My question is: how difficult would it be for myself (or even a trained technician at Best Buy or otherwise) to install? The sound system that is in there is the factory Bose Premium Sound, and i'm not looking to upgrade it at all, just the head unit. Would the install be difficult due to the amps and speakers? I don't even know where the amps are, much less how they would affect the install of a new unit.
*for reference sake, the model of head unit i am looking to get is Sony's MEX-BT5100
There is something to do with the matching of a stereo the the Bose system, not just any aftermarket stereo will work. I replaced mine at a local Car Stereo Shop with a unit that handle Ipod functions etc and it wasn't that expensive. Just make sure you get the unit that is compatible with the bose system. A good car stereo shop should be able to sow you the right one.
thanks for the input, and prompt response boulder! I contacted Crutchfield, and they gave me a couple options, but i will try a local place as well. what model or brand of unit did you go with? Either way, will post when I get a resolution. thanks.
I'm hearing a grinding loud sound in my Qx4 2003 model when turning and accelerate at high speed. I check the brake pad and it's not worn, I check also the metal heat shield if it is rubbing in the rotor but there is no sign of rubbing from it. i was thinking maybe it's from differential are there's somebody here experienced this problem?
The only new noise that has developed in our 2003 QX4 has been diagnosed as a heat shield that is rattling or resonating at acceleration. Certainly not a "grinding" sound as ferdzz describes. Even if it is high mileage, I would be surprised if it is a timing chain. Check the grease level in the differential.
I AM LOOKING AT INSTALLING A NEW DECK BUT AM UNCLEAR ABOUT WETHER I NEED NEW SPEAKERS. CONFLICTING MESSAGES ARE FOUND EVERYWHERE. MY 2001 QX4 BOSE SYSTEM HAS ERR MESSAGE IN 6 CD CHANGER AND BUTTONS ARE COMING LOOSE. DID YOU SOLVE YR PROBLEM?
I did not fully solve my problem, as I do not have the surplus cash to spend right now. However, I did find a solution from crutchfield that will probably solve your solution. Basically, you just need to replace the head unit, and can keep the speakers and their amps provided that they are still in good condition.
I have a 2001 Infiniti QX4 SUV. Anyone know how to replace burned out tail light bulb? Removing the two visible screws loosens the tail light assembly but doesn't allow access to the bulb.
Hi All QX4 owners. I purchased a 97 QX4 in February of 08. I love the vehicle. I have a concern though that centers around a grinding noise that I hear when I accelerate. The noise seems to be in the rea of the vehicle. Second. Within the last two months, I have notice what appears to be an oil leak in my garage. When I check the oil level, all seems to be fine. When I check the powersteering fluids, once again, all seems to be fine. Any suggestions?
I am answering my own question. I went to an Infinity dealer and paid $40. After removing the two visible screws the mechanic just gripped the plastic assembly and yanked it outward. The burned out bulb was then accessible.
I recently had to replace the backup light bulbs on my daughter's 2001 QX4 and couldn't figure out how to access them. After some thought, I told my daughter to ask the local Infinity dealer how much it would cost for them to replace them. They told her about $200.00 because it would take them at least 1-1/2 hours to do the job according to their repair manual. After hearing this, I decided that you must have to remove the rear door inside panel to access them, and that's the reason they're charging so much. I went to the local auto parts store and purchased a couple of door panel tools with the forked ends and light bulbs. By the way, the owner's manual calls for an 1156 bulb and the parts store says it takes a 921-LL (long life) bulb. As it turns out, both the owner's manual and the QX4 DVD repair manual are wrong. The 921 is the correct bulb. Removing the inside door panel is easy and the tools I bought were only about $16.00 total. The entire job took about 50 minutes, and I have never done this before. Once the door panel was removed, the lights are accessible from the back and the bulb fixtures easily twist out. I had looked on this forum sight and others for a way to do this but could find nothing. I hope this will help someone with the same problem I had. Don't forget to remove the inside lift gate handle first, then snap out the inside door panel.
My ABS light came on. I found the small motor next to ABS device on the engine side of the firewall runs after the ignition is turned off. It drains the battery. Is there a relay or solenoid that might be stuck and is causing this? If I pull the fuse for the abs, it stops the motor. Is this safe to drive without the fuse in? Any inexpensive fixes on this?
this is answer to QX4 making noise during Acceleration I have had the same issue with my QX4 and it turned out to be heat shield that goes around exhaust system that was making all the noise. Go to your local mechanic and ask him just to cut it off
Did you ever find a fix to this? Did pulling the fuse allow you to drive the car? What was the cost on the fix?? I have exactly the same problem, only difference is the car wont stay running with the abs motor running. Thanks
If you pull the fuse, you can still drive the car but the antilock brakes will not work. Probably not an issue of you're not on ice or snow. We did it for years before they were invented. You can do this yourself. Find the fuse in the fuse/relay box behind the battery. It's location is marked "abs" on the fuse box cover.
Your car battery goes dead when the abs motor runs overnight.
My dealer told me that he is 99% sure that the problem is a bad abs relay. This relay is mounted on the side of the abs unit...mounted on the firewall, passenger side, under the hood. The relay cost about $170. Next time you hear it running when you shut off the car, try rapping the relay good with a screw driver or other tool. It just might fix it without spending the money. I can't try this fix until I return to my winter home next winter, but it will be the first thing I try!
Hi qx4coach. I recently have experienced the same problem. I have a 97 QX4 126,000 miles. I am going to have the left inner fend well welded as soon as my mechanic can get to it. I am totally surprised that this happen. I wish you well
Hi, I've seen this problem a few times out there, was wondering if anyone had come across the solution. My 2001 qx4 is overheating (at least getting very hot): cooling system pressure tested ok, fluid levels ok, fan comes on, always overheats going up a longer hill, but then is fine on a flat highway, for the first time overheated in stop and go traffic this weekend, turning on the heat inside helped cool it down a bit, weather/route or load (other then uphill) make no difference. Dealership couldn't find the problem of course, so any ideas would be very much appreciated! Thanks!
Is this still offered? I do bump out when I have 4 heavy or 5 folks in the car but did not know it was a TSB.
"Welcome to the club! I, as well, have a 1997 QX4, with over 56K miles. Maintenance; look at post #46; you can get a free rear suspension upgrade (shocks,springs)if you tell your dealer the rear bottoms out with a full load or five people aboard. Bulletin #ITB97-026"
How could i get a copy of the maintenance schedule for my QX4-1997 SUV? My smog check guy told me by Boots are leaking at 114,000 mile and I should replace them but I want to be educated about cost/repair if I take it in. Is this a CV Boot change or just and Axle boot change?
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide has your maintenance schedule, but it won't tell you about repair items. Checking the boots should be one of the inspection items whenever your SUV is on the lift but I don't know that I've ever seen inspecting the boots listed separately on a schedule.
Most people get them replaced either when someone notices one is split or leaking or they start making noise. If you catch them before they start leaking, then you only need to replace the boot. I usually wind up having to replace the axle too since I don't notice the split in time.
So I had 2 people tell me change it. West Coast Auto, gave me a quote for $690 including CA tax (9.25% now) and what they said is a required Allignment. That breaks down as $145/side, and 1.5 hours of labor at about $90/hour. So total of about $600 when they offered the allignment for free.
Is that worth it for my 114,000, 1997 Infiniti QX4? I have never skimmed on proper maintanance but $600 gets steep for a car now worth around $5K. But my plan is to keep it while "low-maintance" perhaps for 3 more years thru 150,000 miles.
I don't think a busted CV joint is good for your transmission (or perhaps I should say transaxle).
I put a Raxles axle/boot on my Nissan Quest a few years back with the help of a friend for the price of the part ($170). The next one I let a mechanic do. $600 over 3 years is $200 a year, so that's ok. Cars that get as old as ours (I have a '97 and a '99) are more likely to require some maintenance and repair now and then though, and none of it is cheap. But it's rarely more expensive than 3 or 4 car payments would be.
I need a repair manual for a 2001 Infiniti QX4 so I can see how to replace my radio antenna that stopped retracting automatically. Have not been able to find one at my local auto parts store. Any suggestions as to how to get one? Thanks!
Their site also provides links with instructions on how to do the replacement. It was pretty easy. I know they also sell complete units but have no experience with those.
The car starts but I can't get the car out of park. I can't get the button on the gear shift to go in all the way. My tail lights and brake lights are out as well. Are these all related? Could this be a fuse? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
In owners manual it says: "If the selector lever cannot be moved from the P position while the engine is running and the brake pedal is depressed, the stop lights may not work. Malfunctioning stoplights could cause an accident injuring yourself and others."
On Friday I pulled out of a parking lot and the car suddenly dies, I get it jumped off and went straight to AutoZone and had the battery, starter, and alternator tested (w/load and w/out). Everything checked out great, guy said it was just a fluke. Easter Sunday (2 days later) crank car and go outside 5 minutes later and it is not running. Battery seems fine, talk w/ Father in law and he says check connections, everything seems connected. Spray ether and cranks up, it then shut off. I'm at a loss cause I have no real mechanical sense and am on a budget right now and don;t want to fork out the tow fee for something that is easy to fix. Please let me know any and all thoughts and if there is any other info that might be useful. Thanks Derek derek.odette@atticbreeze.net
I think you can try cleaning the MAF sensor with some spray. One time my RX300 got erratic actions like suddenly loosing power or just quit, very hard to start, etc. I took the MAF sensor off and noticed the wire was covered with a pile of dirty stuff like epoxy. I cleaned it (do not touch, just spray and make sure it is completely dry) and put it back. Car ran like new again. Total cost is this spray bottle from Fry's like $7.
My engine light came on, and after diagnosis, the message says " Catalytic System Efficiency below threshold (bank 1)". Where is this sensor located, on a 2001 QX4, 3.5, 4WD, and what is it called in the market if I need to purchase one. Also, where is the driver side headlight ballast located on the same vehicle? (HID Headlights).
I have a 98 QX4 that I was having starting issues with, would start sometimes and other times not. So I had the battery replaced. Still the problems persisted. Then I was driving in town, about 15 mph and the car just died. All the lights came on.
I took to my local Nissan dealer who ran the tests. Said that they would have to "start" by replacing the computer and possibly more. For them the QX4 still started intermittently, mostly not.
I feel it could be the alternator, starter, the starter solenoid, bad battery cables... These are just guesses since I do not know much about cars.
Do you see the check engine light comes on when the car is still running? If you have a code scanner you will be able to tell what part is wrong. Or go to some parts store where they offer free scan.
When I got a message of Catalytic Converter performance below threshold, I drove my car for three and half hours from Chicago to Springfield, IL and back. The message has gone ever since and the car acceleration is smoother. In a long driving distance, the converter reached a higher temperature and burned off some sticky stuffs plugged in the converter. About Heated Oxygen Sensors, each bank has two sensors front and rear. It is best to have a mechanic to replace them since they are hidden and will need a special socket to remove them. Also avoiding damage the sensor threads when remove and replace the sensors. Nissan car is sensitive with the O2 sensors, if it starts going bad, check engine will go off and on sporadically. If engine code does not show the sensor faulty, the chance is not the sensor.
SOME ONE PLEASE HELP ME MY 03 Q4 WILL FISHTAIL WHEN I DRIVE.WHEN I HIT THE GAS I FEEL THE REAR OF THE TRUCK MOVE TO THE RIGHT THEN WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS IT MOVES BACK TO THE LEFT.I HAVE HAD 2 OF THE REAR CONTROL ARMS REPLACED(THEY WERE BENT) I HOPE SOMEONE HAS HAD THIS PROBLEM AND CAN HELP ME.ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.THANKS.
Comments
If you're thinking about getting an Infiniti save some money and by a Kia; the Kia might just prove to be a better car.
Has anyone else ever seen anything like this?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I completely share your frustration. I am in Denver, Colorado. We have two Infiniti dealers in town. Both compete for who can provide worse service. It is not as much about the car as the dealers. I took my car a few months ago to the East side dealer for them to take a "look." They billed me $110. For what? No services, no replacement, no advice; I came poorer. You infact feel scared.
I recently purchased a 2001 QX4, and in the last couple weeks of weeks, the Service Engine Soon light has come on and off and on again, etc. Also, it would occasionaly idle a bit rough, or would lack response when pressing the accelorator.
I took it to the local Infiniti service center here in Santa Monica, and they told me that the Airflow Meter needs replaced, and recommended a "Fuel Induction Servicing".
I have read all the threads in this forum regarding the SES, but have not seen or heard of anything regarding the Airflow Meter. Any thoughts? Does this sound right? What are the odds that even once they fix this, I will need a series of other things done to correct my problem?
I don't know what either of these really mean, or what benefit the latter would serve. Any suggestions?
Thank you all in advance for your input!
I would not let dealer perform any additional recommended service unless I know absolutely necessary. the more you let them do the more stuff needs service, that's the way they make money (not always of cause).
My question is: how difficult would it be for myself (or even a trained technician at Best Buy or otherwise) to install? The sound system that is in there is the factory Bose Premium Sound, and i'm not looking to upgrade it at all, just the head unit. Would the install be difficult due to the amps and speakers? I don't even know where the amps are, much less how they would affect the install of a new unit.
*for reference sake, the model of head unit i am looking to get is Sony's MEX-BT5100
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
thanks!
Has anyone had any experience with replacing ignition coils? How long should they last, cost, etc.?
Thanks
Here's essentially what i would get, if I had the money now:
Pioneer DEH-P7000BT - $249.99
Nissan In-dash Receiver Kit Fits select 2001-up Nissan and Infiniti models
Chassis size E - FREE
Nissan Antenna Adapter Diversity antenna to Motorola female (and male) - FREE
Nissan/Infiniti Factory Integration Adapter (THIS IS THE ADAPTER YOU NEED) - $19.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142C4NN03/Nissan-Infiniti-Factory-Integration-Adapt- er.html?search=OEM+Amplifier+Adapter&tp=3486
PAC SWI-PS - $74.99
Mike
Mike
Mike
anybody know any good deals on one?
I have had the same issue with my QX4 and it turned out to be heat shield that goes around exhaust system that was making all the noise. Go to your local mechanic and ask him just to cut it off
Your car battery goes dead when the abs motor runs overnight.
My dealer told me that he is 99% sure that the problem is a bad abs relay. This relay is mounted on the side of the abs unit...mounted on the firewall, passenger side, under the hood. The relay cost about $170. Next time you hear it running when you shut off the car, try rapping the relay good with a screw driver or other tool. It just might fix it without spending the money. I can't try this fix until I return to my winter home next winter, but it will be the first thing I try!
I wish you well
weather/route or load (other then uphill) make no difference. Dealership couldn't find the problem of course, so any ideas would be very much appreciated!
Thanks!
"Welcome to the club! I, as well, have a 1997 QX4, with over 56K miles. Maintenance; look at post #46; you can get a free rear suspension upgrade (shocks,springs)if you tell your dealer the rear bottoms out with a full load or five people aboard. Bulletin #ITB97-026"
Thanks,
AJ
Most people get them replaced either when someone notices one is split or leaking or they start making noise. If you catch them before they start leaking, then you only need to replace the boot. I usually wind up having to replace the axle too since I don't notice the split in time.
So I had 2 people tell me change it. West Coast Auto, gave me a quote for $690 including CA tax (9.25% now) and what they said is a required Allignment. That breaks down as $145/side, and 1.5 hours of labor at about $90/hour. So total of about $600 when they offered the allignment for free.
Is that worth it for my 114,000, 1997 Infiniti QX4? I have never skimmed on proper maintanance but $600 gets steep for a car now worth around $5K. But my plan is to keep it while "low-maintance" perhaps for 3 more years thru 150,000 miles.
Thank you again.
I put a Raxles axle/boot on my Nissan Quest a few years back with the help of a friend for the price of the part ($170). The next one I let a mechanic do. $600 over 3 years is $200 a year, so that's ok. Cars that get as old as ours (I have a '97 and a '99) are more likely to require some maintenance and repair now and then though, and none of it is cheap. But it's rarely more expensive than 3 or 4 car payments would be.
You don't need a repair manual. Do you need to just replace the antenna mast or the whole unit? I had to replace my mast a few years ago and bought from these guys - http://antennamastsrus.com/Infiniti/QX4/Infiniti%20QX4%201997-2003.htm
Their site also provides links with instructions on how to do the replacement. It was pretty easy. I know they also sell complete units but have no experience with those.
Good luck!
Brought it to the dealership to discover that it's the check engine light bulb that's bad.
The friggin bulb is $37 but it's another $200 in labor(1.5 hrs) to remove the dashboard/instrument cluster to get to the bulb.
I know I'm getting ripped off but I'm thinking trying to reassemble everything isn't going to be an easy project. Am I wrong?
"If the selector lever cannot be moved
from the P position while the engine
is running and the brake pedal is depressed,
the stop lights may not
work. Malfunctioning stoplights
could cause an accident injuring
yourself and others."
Thanks
Derek
derek.odette@atticbreeze.net
Also, where is the driver side headlight ballast located on the same vehicle? (HID Headlights).
I took to my local Nissan dealer who ran the tests. Said that they would have to "start" by replacing the computer and possibly more. For them the QX4 still started intermittently, mostly not.
I feel it could be the alternator, starter, the starter solenoid, bad battery cables... These are just guesses since I do not know much about cars.
If anyone has ideas on this please help! :sick:
About Heated Oxygen Sensors, each bank has two sensors front and rear. It is best to have a mechanic to replace them since they are hidden and will need a special socket to remove them. Also avoiding damage the sensor threads when remove and replace the sensors. Nissan car is sensitive with the O2 sensors, if it starts going bad, check engine will go off and on sporadically. If engine code does not show the sensor faulty, the chance is not the sensor.