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Subaru Outback/Legacy Buying Advice
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I tell you the ABLS on my Armada combined with VDC is great on it. If I put it in RWD and turn off the VDC, the ABLS will let me spin both rear wheels
-mike
I bet the AWD system on the new G35 is identical to the one on the Legacy GT automatics (VTD/VDC).
-juice
The RDX looks nice but it's a bit small. Toyota has the Matrix and the xB, but both are a bit dated. RAV4 maybe?
Drive a Forester Sports XT, a RAV4 V6, and the RDX. Maybe a CX7 for good measure.
All offer fun and utility.
-juice
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Jatco_transmissions
Ken
But that is probable. The SVX had the same basic trans design as the pathfinder in the day.
-mike
If you're mike (paisan), you win a trophy for an autocross competition. Seriously. That's exactly what he did.
They handle well with those tires. I'd just get a Legacy to begin with, though. They're lighter.
-juice
Me thinks SOA is playing the subbie loyalty card to long and it'll bite them if it hasn't already. If VCD is not an option on all OB's and Leg in 08..big trouble at SOA.
-mike
They liked it quite a bit, but had big problems starting around 2002. Lots of oil leaks, blown head gaskets. There was a recall involving some coolant additive to keep the coolant from degrading engine seals I think. Looks like this recall was administered too late to save our car’s engine, or our vehicle was a lemon. We're actually going through the California BBB to get a better offer than the 3K worth of “shut-up” money they’ve offered so far, and hopefully get Subaru to buy this thing back since they've tried to fix it 6+ times at the dealer and failed to keep it from springing another leak.
My parents mostly drive their 2003 Prius (which they love), and liked the Subaru as their larger utility vehicle for camping trips and larger excursions where they'd like a bit more room and comfort.
Looking for a replacement station wagon, they want something roomy and comfortable, fairly quiet on the road, and fuel efficient / low emissions. They're not the type of folks to go for a luxury vehicle (Lexus, Mercedes, Cadillac) sort of car. Generally speaking my mom is put off by the price and doesn’t really care for the "image" that she feels such a vehicle projects.
Unfortunately, it seems to me, those luxury vehicles are the only ones that I’d call quiet on the road. I remember infinity had lots of commercials back in the day about how quiet their cars were on the road. Are there any non "luxury" wagons that are quiet like that? The Subaru Outback, Ford Focus, Pasat Station Wagon, and the Volvo station wagons are the wagons that are most in my folks sights. I told them the Honda Fit had some really cool flexibility in the way the back seats could be moved around, but in terms of size and comfort for hauling around 4 or 5 adults, they’d prefer something a bit roomier.
As for the outback.. my parents are somewhat put off by their experience with their current one, but are likely to accept a replacement and an apology from Subaru. The Outback continues to have a pretty stellar consumer reports standing still. They were also put off by a 2004 maneuver where Subaru raised the car a bit to push it into a "light trucks" classification and side step some fuel economy rules.
[url=http://www.nytimes.com/2004/01/13/arts/13SUBA.html?ex=1389330000&en=7e0f7f9- 59f6d66cf&ei=5007&partner=USERLAND]here's an article on that sad story[/url]
Just thought I’d post a quick note and check for some Internet wisdom in addition to my own web searching and research. Looks like the combo of not a “luxury vehicle,” but on the quieter side, is a hard combo request to fill. Seems like the quieter vehicles are generally luxury models with lower mileage. I guess to make cars quieter, manufacturers are really stuck using heavier thicker components that add weight? This is certainly different than house insulation where lightweight things with air gaps get you effective noise reduction and temperature control. I suppose there isn’t room for that type of “Bulk” on an auto though.
Thanks in advance for any fabulous suggestions, feedback, and personal experience you might have to share.
This is the same as the PT Cruiser and the HHR being classified as light trucks as well, have to work the rules or else you will be at a disadvantage in the market.
-mike
-juice
Having said that, let's get with the program, Subaru, you just might be the last one to make it standard on all your models.
-juice
I wonder if the tuning with AWD is what is causing the hold up. I'm even wondering if the fact that the manual transmission Continous AWD is what is complicating matters since it's the one system that really can't be controlled by a TCU.
I'd love to be a fly on the wall in Subaru's engineering team meetings!
Ken
Last winter during the 48hrs of Tri-state, Frank a friend of mine was driving the Armada with a whole host of about 20+ subies behind us through icy mountain roads. The only folks who were able to keep up were 2 of the STis and I was watching the slip light of the VDC flickering as he carved through the icy turns, you wouldn't have known the VDC was active other than the flicker of the light.
-mike
Thanks for all your advice!
Nancy
Here in New York, there are tons of competing Subaru dealers, but there are also tons of people buying Subarus (and I suspect the same is true in Denver). The dealers are much firmer on price -- they can afford to send you on down the road and wait for the next customer.
Dealers here simply won't sell you a car for the prices the MD dealers allegedly do. If Fitzgerald is actually selling brand-new cars for invoice minus holdback and then some and incentives, I applaud them, but it ain't happening in my neck of the woods.
We bought our '02 Legacy there, the prices are for real. They do have a $99 processing fee they disclose up front. The process was quite painless, so I will very likely go there again. My family has bought 4 cars from that dealership.
-juice
Any thoughts as to why the Maryland market is so competitive to the consumer's benefit? The weather, maybe? Most of the year you're fine w/o AWD, but then you get those 4-5 ice/snow storms? Are domestics more of a presence there than in the NYC area? I can literally go weeks between sightings of late-model American makes here(excluding SUVs).
I mean, it's not just Fitzgerald -- there are several other MD Subaru dealers who have similar pricing.
I actually did shop Fitz for a 2006 Sienna/2007 Legacy, but I figured that between the time spent and gas and probably a hotel room and everything else, it was too much trouble to save (net) two or three hundred bucks.
Bob
I will let other folks line the local dealers' pockets on new car sales. I am sure that I will give them more than my share when it comes to maintenance. :sick:
Two houses, both costing $250,000. One, in the city, has 1500 sq ft. The other, eight miles out, has 2100 sq. ft. and a bigger lot. Which one is the bargain? Well, it depends on if you have kids or not, hate the city congestion or not. Value shopping and night life or not.
In California, the Tri-State area of NJ/NY/CN, or similar metroplex areas, it always pays to search dealers in at least a 100 mile radius. Is there anyone who feels two hours of driving isn't worth saving $500+ on a car?
I usually save, at the minimum, a whole year's insurance premium doing that.
Also, we have dealers in MD, but I'm just a couple of exist from VA, so those compete for my business, too.
Fitz is not necessarily the cheapest, either, but they are straight up and honest, and the process is painless. I'd rather give them my repeat business vs. going somewhere else and not knowing what to expect, and maybe saving a few bucks.
Plus, they know me now so my salesman will toss me keys to anything I test drive without any questions.
-juice
Some States, live Nevada, charge you only the difference in price between what you paid for the car you are selling, and the new one you are buying. Others, like California, charge you the full amount, even on the replacement vehicle......
The following are not included in the taxable sales price if the charges are separately stated:
• Trade-in allowance for a vehicle taken in trade by the seller may be deducted from the sales price of a vehicle be-fore the tax is calculated. However, if the vehicle is sold to a third party, no trade-in allowance is permitted, because two separate transactions have occurred.
Special rules apply to the following vehicles. A more com-plete description of these vehicles is found in Minnesota Stat-utes, section 297B.025, Older Passenger Automobiles.
• Older passenger vehicles. Instead of the 6.5 percent tax, there is a $10 tax if the vehicle is in the tenth or older year of vehicle life, has a sale price of less than $3,000, and is not an above-market automobile as designated by the regis-trar of motor vehicles.
Bought a new 2007 2.5i wagon with 5 speed manual. Hope you can help me with a few questions. Mileage has been, understandably, less than great with only a week and 300 miles on the car. How many miles before the engine breaks in and mileage improves? Also, I live in upstate NY and will be encountering a lot of snow soon. How does the AWD perform with the standard tires? Are snow tires necessary or will the factory tires suffice? Finally, while I love the car so far, I'm underwhelmed by the stereo system. Any suggestions for modifications? Is the Subaru subwoofer worth pursuing?
Thanks!
Living where you do, I would certainly protect my own, and my families safety by investing in new rims and snow tires. The standard tires with the AWD will perform well, but in snow country nothing beats chains or snowtires.
I had them install the sub-woofer package, whichy includes higher end speakers, and also purchased the tweeters, which most def improves the sound quality 100%. Make sure on install, the turn up the bass and treble gain almost to full.
-mike
Craig
They may be slightly noisy but for me they have more than paid for themselves over the years.
Of course, this year we seem to be in a moisture drought. May have the 4th brown Christmas in 100 years.
MNSteve
-mike
Please? The snow tyres aren't getting their exercise this year. I've been using Dunlop Wintersports for a few years now.
I'm just looking for the best value in a highly reliable vehicle. I don't mind doing some repairs and will do all recommended maintenance upon purchase, but would like to avoid any problems that can be avoided from the beginning.
1) Which model years from 2000-2005 would you look for/avoid, based on known issues with certain model years?
2) I read in another forum that pre-2005 Subaru Outbacks were prone to head gasket leaking.
a. Is this problem confined to pre-2005 Subaru Outbacks? Is the cutoff a different model year?
b. How prevalent was this problem? Should I avoid purchasing a pre-2005 vehicle? I’m looking for quality + value combination, and of course newer means more expensive.
c. If you purchase a pre-2005 Subaru Outback, should you replace the head gasket even if there’s no visible problem yet?
d. How much does replacing the head gasket cost at most good garages on average?
e. Will replacing the head gasket solve the problem, or is the origin of the problem in engine design and it will simply happen again?
3) What are the advantages of the VDC Subaru Outback? I'm noticing that VDC (Vehicle Dynamics Control) Outbacks seems to be commanding serious premiums on Craigslist and KBB.
a. What advantages does this model offer?
b. How much of a premium is it worth?
c. Which model years was it available?
Thanks again to all for the great advice I’ve been getting here.
Wanted to ask:
1) What do people like about the LLB edition over the Ltd edition for 2000-2002?
2) Do you prefer the LLB 2000-2002 to the VDC Ltd edition 2001-2002?
3) I realize the VDC for these years commands a premium. Is it worth it?
4) If price were no limitation, would you go for the 2001-2002 VDC Ltd over the LLB and Ltd editions?
5) Does getting the LLB mean paying a premium just for the LL Bean name?
In the last day I've narrowed my choices to these model years and editions, and Edmunds has been a HUGE help. Thanks everyone for the great advice and information.
The VDC model was the H6 so it has more power (212hp vs. 165hp) and stability/traction control. I'm sure it will cost more and premium fuel is recommended for the H6.
2005 the new model arrived. For those the prices will be higher, of course.
A 2003-2004 should hit the sweet spot, 2005 if you can afford it.
They are all AWD. Should be fine for the conditions you describe.
I'm selling a 2002 Legacy L MT5 (non-Outback) but frankly your requirements are a bit unrealistic, so I would look for less demanding buyers, and mine's still under a Subaru Gold warranty!
You may want to ease up on some of those, FWIW.
As a seller, I'm willing to get my vehicle MD inspected, VA inspected, or DC inspected, so they can be registered in any one of those jurisdictions.
2 inspections seem like a bit much to me.
I'd do one state inspection, to make sure it passes and the buyer could register it.
If they wanted a mechanic to look at it I guess I'd be OK with it, but I'd let them make all the arrangements.
Have you found any with some warranty left? Or maybe CPO?
Good condition, clean, 160k miles, auto, nice winestone (burgundy) color. 30th Anniv pkg adds to the L model's standard goodies: power moonroof, height adjustable driver's seat, roof rack, alloy wheels, power antenna, color coordinated door handles and bodyside moldings. Oh, and of course a 30th Anniv. badge. I'd like to get it for $4k-ish. Thoughts on the vehicle for the price?
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