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and as for not driving it, well thats just too bad, im going to have to today
I'm just not inclined to believe this. I believe she hit the curb and is probably in denial. At any point, I wanted to update the story and put Suburban owners minds at ease. I wish I had been given the full story up front.
George
Does anybody have any clues what happened or how to fix this?
as it has metal grommets instead of the plastic GM uses. They won't crush so easily and leak. I also will brush and clean the bolts with brake cleaner and use "blue" thread lock to install. I think the torque is only 11 ftlbs on these bolts. Not much. Most of the leaks were caused by over torque at the factory or during replacement. Also air leaking past bad radiator caps gets into the system and causes an acidic condition which eats up everything, apparently. My friend changes out his dex-cool every two years or less to no avail. I heard that some people have "super flushed" the system and used green anti-freeze. My Buick has done the same thing but was repaired under warranty. I hope it lasts longer than the 18000 miles I got out of it last time. (Car was new!) If anyone has experience with using green coolant or has any thing else to help me out I would appreciate your comments. I hope the intake is not warped. I may take it to a shop and have it jigged to make sure. I would think that GM would find a cure for this. People have spent millions on this problem, even with religious maintenance.
Again, thanks in advance!!
as your problem lessered, mine became worse
~tom
Second thing was bad rheostat/fuel sensor. They got 4 different dianostics but it all came back to that rheostat which caused the other 3 diags. They replaced it and it works perfect now. It cost me $90 to put it on their diagnostice machine and $125 parts and labor on the rheostat
Tom - I have the invoice out in my car - will give you the exact wording they used.
Hope this helps.
George
once again, thanks
~tom
"Replaced T.P.S. and clear MAG meter."
He described it to me as a rheostat - must be GM jargon.
The T.P.S. part was $64 and labor was $60
Good luck.
George
Thanks for clearing that up.
thanks,
~tom
and plus, with it being so old, i wouldnt mind replacing it anyways, to prevent it FROM breaking if it isnt the cause
~tom
now, runs like a new car
~tom
I have a 1976 BMW 2002 - a pure mechanical beast and it loves the cold weather (a little dicey driving on ice with rear wheel drive though) - when things break, I know it and can fix it.
George
Needed to have the transmission rebuilt. There is a small drum in there, which for the 96's was not a hardened steel and it breaks where it attaches to a shaft. When I described the symptoms to my local AAMCO, they predicted the problem as this is apparantely a very common failure for that model. You don't want to drive it until repair, as the metal pieces can float around and mess up the other gears. I drove it home about 10 miles after realizing that I lost 2nd gear, and then had it towed to the transmission shop. Had two other gears that chipped because of the pieces in that short 10 miles. I saw all of the pieces during the repair process.
I did not realize that reverse went out as well, until AAMCO suggested that I should check it as that drum makes both 2nd and reverse work.
You're looking at a 1500-2500 dollar repair, depending if there are additional pieces that need replaced.
Thanks in advance.
New to the site. Wanted to see if any of you could help me with this one: Just purchased an 04 Suburban for my wife. Vehicle was previously owned by a retired comercial airline pilot. I suppose after 30 or so years of the flight tower knowing where he was all of the time, he decided that he did'nt want anyone knowing where he was in his vehicle, so he took a pair of side cutters and clipped the top of the On Star antena off (this part costs $35.00 in case your wondering). I replaced the antena and it still does not register with On Star, so I'm assuming that it's not getting power. Is On Star on its own fuse, or is it something deeper? Thanks in advance.
JP
is this just what they do?
Question is, is the problem worth the effort and cost to fix it.
naturally, all vehicle transmissions shift differently. and while new transmissions shift smoothly and if it slams into gear, then it is un-doubtably a problem. older vehicles are different, much harder and less refined.
if this, however, isnt in fact normal, it will not be fixed. i wont fix it because it doesnt "need" it, the transmission shifts like silk in the forward gears and i have gotten used to it. like most of my feelings about this vehicle, if it breaks, it breaks. i wont drop a penny into a suspected problem until it actually does become a problem. or i might fix it, i dont know. but sometimes a good and capable hunting rig i can drive up and sleep in sounds nice.
~tom
any ideas?
So be careful-if you have heated washer fluid, you could get a cracked windshield if you use it on a cold day.
____________________________________________________________
Your '99 model is now 7 or more years old....it is not expected that a vehicle that old would not occaisionally have some problems. It sounds to me like somehow the engine was flooded and that caused the starting problem. By "standing" on the gas pedal enough air entered the system to get the engine going again.
When I buy used, I've planned for the worst, and hope for the best.
Having a problem with stalling. It usually happens after backing out of parking areas when vehical returns to idle while shifting from reverse to drive. It then become difficult to restart. Also during this issue if vehical doesn't stall it starts exibiting erratic idle. The vehical also seems to idle low 550rpm down to 400 and lower on occasion.
I have attempted to locate the idle air valve but it doesn't seem to have one in the location in the manual (on throttle body by altinator). I can only find what I believe is the Throttle position sensor in that location.
Vehical doesn't do this all the time but nore times than not and seems to be more often during cool/cold weather.
Any help or idea would be gratly appreciated.
Curtis
If the fuel mixture is not ignitable because it is too rich or lean (assuming a perfect ignition system), then the plugs will foul with excess gasoline and be flooded.
If the mixture was correct (assuming a perfect fuel system), but the ignition had a problem in not firing the plugs with enough voltage and/or at the right time.....then again the engine would be flooded.
You need to suspect and check both sides of the equation.....takes both to Tango.
~tom
Thanks,
Thanks, Joe.
It seems like if I give a hard yank straight downward it might come, but I'm afraid I may break something?
Because it has been getting worse recently I made sure that the automatic dome light was off despite the fact that I have done several checks to make sure there isn't some light on somewhere in the vehicle. As I've said the battery does recharge if I'm driving and the engine is running, so I don't think it's an alternator problem, it just can't hold the charge when it's off.
Any ideas?
These will take a little electrical sleuthing to figure out which can be time consuming, but not too terribly difficult. What you (or somebody) needs to do, is to connect an amp meter to your battery, so that it shows the current being drawn thru it. It will undoubtedly show current flow, even though everything is supposed to be 'off'. Start unplugging all of the fuses (one by one), looking for the current flow to stop. For instance, you wouldn't expect any current flowing to your cigarrette lighters with nothing plugged into them, so if you pull the fuse and nothing changes, you know there is nothing on that circuit that is drawing power and it is not the problem. Put it back in. If you pull the fuse to the power seats and the current drops, then you have a suspect. Then you need to figure out whether it is supposed to have power, and if so is it drawing more than it should. Power seats obviously should not have power draw, so you would have found the problem circuit. Isolate it further, by unplugging devices on that circuit if possible to find the actual defective device. Leave the fuse out until you fix it.
If you can't find it with your initial sleuthing, I would take it to the dealer to troubleshoot, because it may be one of the computers defective and drawing too much power. I'd personally want the dealer replacing that as opposed to some independant shop, unless you knew the reputation of the shop.