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Mazda3 Engine Issues
We just got my daughter a used 2004 Mazda 3 4-door sedan. It has a 2.0 liter engine. The car has about 33,000 miles on it. I decided to change the plugs and took out it's old plugs (which were ITR6F13 - not sure which brand) and replaced them with Bosch 4211 Platinum Plugs with a gap = 0.052.
Please give me your input.
Thanks!
Mike
Please give me your input.
Thanks!
Mike
0
Comments
I'm looking to buy a Mazda3. Can't stand the two-toned seats of the S-series, but also don't want to have a weak car in terms of power. Has anybody driven both the 2.0 and the 2.3L models and can attest if there's any difference? Thanks!
ps.
I think that the 2.3 may have made more sense for the 2004-2005 models since it was the only engine with variable valve timing, which gives you more power at lower engine speeds. Mazda added VVT to the 2.0 for 2006, so that's not an issue anymore.
I just wish that the hatchback was available with the 2.0L engine.
I will say this - after 2+ years the seats still look new - the cloth has held up much better than I expected. I seem to recall telling my wife something like - Don't worry about the checkered seats - they look like they won't last very long - and then we can get after market leather put in. The factory leather (back in 2004 anyway) was the lowest quality I have ever seen in a vehicle - hard as a rock + slippery - it looked like it was coated with plastic.
As far as engine power - go drive both and see for yourself!
I would not really say gas mileage is a huge issue, we are talking about 3mpg here...not 10mpg.
I saw another poster talk about VV-T. The gain with the VV-T for 2006 is only 2hp over the previous 2 years. Not a big difference.
I would buy the s model simply because it looks nicer, better resale value, and more power. It's worth the extra money, IMHO.
The 3s also has alloy wheels, fog lights, a different grill/bumper and if you go up to the touring or Grand Touring model it also gets side sill extensions.
I drove a base 3i and a 3s-GT back to back (both manual transmission) and found a noticeable difference between the engine performance.
I don't know what the leather was like in '04 but I can attest that the '06 leather is every bit as nice or nicer than what is found in the VW's and the Acura RSX.
With the S Touring you get 17" wheels, and side sill extensions (side skirts)
the 626's were built in Flatrock, MI while the Miata and 3s are being built in Japan. according to the latest CR ratings, the Mazda 3 highly rated.
I liked both of the manuals much better. You could feel the improved low end torque in the 2.3 (snappier feel), but the 2.0 was not bad. If you don't know how to drive a manual, this is good car to learn on. Clutch and shifter smooth and easy to use. Go test drive them.
At a discount auto parts store they are about $10 each
I just replaced my plugs (same ITR6F13) but went with the ITR5F13 which is one heat range hotter than stock.
I had some black gunk on my old plugs (22K miles). Hope the hotter plug keeps this burned off. I do alot of short trip / heavy traffic driving.
So far no real change in how the engine runs & I am still getting around 20 MPG - so I wasted my $40 - no real surprise - I did not expect a miracle!
however, peak is only part of the story.
if we had Q and HP curves for '06 and '05, we could numerically integrate the Q and HP curves (separately, of course) and see the quantitative effect of the VVT over the entire usable rev range (this, coupled with gear ratios, is why power-to-weight ratios, though valuable, aren't always the best predictor of acceleration). this would give us a better picture of the "numbers". of course, various standing and rolling acceleration times at different speeds and gears would give us an even better idea of the difference (if any).
My neighbor had a similar problem with a Pontiac. It would not start - acted like a dead battery - but the lights - horn - radio still worked - tried jump starting but still nothing - not even a click out of the starter.
So she had it towed - as soon as it got to the shop it would start right up - a dozen or more times with no problem.
She went though this a second time - and then the mechanic determined it was a starter problem -
The starter had a "bad spot" on the commutator, the electrical section of the armature that contacts the brushes. When the starter motor was at one spot in its rotation the electrical connection was bad - so no flow of electricity. The motion when the car was towed into the shop was enough to move the parts so that the electrical connection was good enough to work.
As far as handling it with the dealer that could be tough - has the car ever not started while at the dealer?
I had a similar problem last summer when my PCV went south. My Mazda Protege5 (predecessor to the Mazda3) was basically choking when it was stopped. The solution: install a new PCV (approx. C$350).
Surprising that your dealership did not identify this as the cause. Perhaps there is another reason in your case. Did you get a diagnostic test done to identify an fault codes?
Good luck!
Maybe you can stop in the chat tonight and run this problem past the assembled brains! :P
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
The salesman also told me that the 2.0 had better reliability than the 2.3, but I haven't really seen anything to substantiate that. He might have just been trying to convince me I was making a good decision, but even if it's just anecdotal, I'll take it.
Sure, you MIGHT only have to replace the filter, but without actually getting my eyes on it, there's no way to say one way or the other, so I'd say that if someone actually looked at it and has told you that you need a new housing, that's probably the case.
By all means have them show you what they mean, but from the incident you desribe, I'd be surprised if there was no damage that needed to be repaired.
Perhaps it is a rumor. Ford used a 2.5 in the Contour/Mystique, but it was a six.
Has anyone on the board heard about a larger engine?
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/News/articleId=122903
I will definitely want to test drive one with the 2.5 when they show up.
I never actually listened to it from outside the car. Should do it at some point, I guess.
I was wondering if you have heard back about the hum, I too just bought a 2007 i touring model and am experiencing the same sound. Thanks!
Relax. It's a simple procedure that will likely fix the problem.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Is anyone else having these problems??
Anyone else experience this kind of issue. Really appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
Thanks, Rod.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Here's a link to a page with photos of a guy that shows how he does it on his 2004
http://robert.aitchison.org/tiki-page.php?pageName=Mazda3+DIY+Oil+Change
Scott
I had a similar problem last summer when my PCV went south. My Mazda Protege5 (predecessor to the Mazda3) was basically choking when it was stopped. The solution: install a new PCV (approx. C$350).
Oops. I meant to say EGR not PCV!