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You'll get hits like this early one:
nanuq, "Land Rover Discovery/Discovery II" #56, 6 Sep 2000 3:22 pm
(High 50's here Bob, but the hill is still open).
Steve, Host
I had a 95 classic range rover and it was good but having a disco again is great. and site like this one really helps and get a information that you might not have known
thanks
I've done this many times before with cars that I've owned and this has never occurred. I wonder if a larger capacity diehard would make sense.
I guess Discos suck battery power like they do gas.
I also just got my first Disco and it also did not come with a manual. I have seen many on ebay, but was leaning toward the CD service/owner's manuals I have also seen there. They are typicaly cheeper and I would assume contain a whole lot more usefull information. Most of the Disco's I looked at had no manual, is there some black market for them?
Any insite (as always) is greatly appreciated.
Bill
As far as parts, there are several parts houses online such as Atlantic British or Roverconnection that have parts at a very reasonable price. Just be ready to work on it yourself.
Have either of you seen this one yet? I have been having trouble lately when I go to start my truck, that I turn the key all the way forward, and nothing happens, then if I let it go back and try again, it will turn over, but not start. I have to turn the key all the way back, and then all the way forward for it to start. I understand the second part, but not the first. All the lights come on on the dash when the key is in the ON position, but when I turn it to START nothing happens. Only if I go all the way back and back to start, it starts right up. It's not the Fuse thing, I already cleaned that. I wonder if my ignition switch is going bad. Any ideas? I don't want to get stranded anywhere.
When you turn on the key in a quiet environment, give a listen to the passenger footwell... there's a lot of solenoid clicking going on over there. If I rush it, I'm guessing something doesn't happen before the key makes "start" contact and the ignition isn't active or whatever. So it will crank but not spark. This is just my gut feeling from how it operates. When I back the key off to "off" position and then go forward again slowly it always works.
Remember all the interconnected systems on these beasties... my advice is to get in and turn the key one click then another, then another and listen to her go.
Scan back thru these posts and look for topics about cleaning it. All your electrical systems distribute from there, and if you have bad connections there, everything "downstream" will be weird. All the ECUs depend on clean power, and poor connections at the fuse block prevent that.
Good luck! It fixed ALL my electrical weirdness.
My Land Rover is the most pathetic, miserably engineered piece of polar bear dung ever to roll on 4 wheels. If its quality of construction was dynamite it couldn't blow out a candle. The electrical system engineering was discovered on the wall of King Tut's tomb, that's how archaic it is. It's a miracle the thing doesn't burst into flames just sitting there. Wait, that would mean there's a working electrical connection someplace and THAT just ain't gonna happen. I loathe this piece of pathetic British junk.
There, think that will keep him away a bit longer? So far so good!
Seriously... do try a new battery. And with your engine running check the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be near 14v. Perhaps your alternator is getting old too? It's time. Same for me.
Good luck! Keep us posted. -Bob
Uphill and down, up in the Rockies or out on the flats, we see an average between 14 and 17 mpg. I don't think we've ever seen anything as low as 10.
First, the key can go all the way and no engine turnover. Take it out, repeat, same thing. Then try a Windows 98 solution: everybody get out, lock the vehicle, get back in, it starts fine.
New one: while driving, turn on the radio. Nothing. But when you turn off the engine at the end of the drive, the radio goes on.
Repeat the process: start the engine, turn on the radio (no radio), turn off the engine, and the radio starts.
DiscoveryII, no warranty, has drops of oil leak. Dealer said change the head gasket on next service, if it continues. Asking around $4500. too much pricy. Any suggestions?
Yes. Don't buy it until the problems are fixed - right! :-)
tidester, host
Thanks for letting us know of the good outcome!
Good luck! -Bob
I jacked it up, removed the wheel, pulled two cotter pins, pulled the two pad retainer pins, pulled the pads, inserted the new pads, slid in the retainer pins and put in new cotter pins. It took about as long as it takes to type that sentence. Then I put the wheel back on, lowered it and tightened the lugs, and repeated on the other side. Total time? Less than 30 minutes.
C'mon folks, you can DO this stuff! These trucks are so easy to work on!
Cheers!
Thanks for the input. I took the leap and now am the proud owner of a 1999 Land Rover Discovery SD. After driving the beastie all day I have realized that this machine was built for me. I have never felt so completely comfortable in a vehicle. Being 6'4" I have often found myself slouching behind the wheel of our Explorer just to get a good look out the windshield. The ride of the F-150 we own also pales in comparison to the sure-footed nature of the Discovery. I'm a bear hunting guide in northern Minnesota and cannot wait to unleash this machine and take it through the swamps and logging trails on our land up here. The wife did make me promise though that no bears would ever be riding shotgun. (You never can get the smell out after they hitch a ride.)
Enjoy your beastie! -Bob
Someone inthe trade says the Lucas Marelli units have weak bearings so are ther conversion brackets for Nippon Denso or other reliable [non-permissible content removed]/German 100 amp units?
Cheers and enjoy your truck! -Bob
I got a letter in the mail fro LR. They told me that there is a recall out on all Discoveries with plastic gas tanks. (Yeah, Yours too) Apparently they get cracks in them over time under extreme weather and off road contitions. Some might smell of fuel and even leak, depending on the extent of the cracks, so they are recalling all of them and replacing the gas tanks with steel. I go on Friday to take mine. Gonna get the belt changed and throttle body cleaned while I'm at it. After all I am over 107K.
The owner's manual recommends 10W40, so it makes sense to me that a single grade oil would work. Can I use it? What is 30-weight oil used for?
Duder: Yeah the GEMS appeared with the 4.0L engine. That's a global (?) engine management system and it was great but the combination of engine timing and valve stem design led to carbon deposits on the exhaust stems... which is why top end cleaner doesn't help. The carbon cutting valve design sorted it.
Vandy: straight-weight oil is often used in older engines where the bearing journals are quite worn and it's hard to maintain oil pressure in critical areas. A modern engine will often work better with a multi-grade so the oil is thin when it's cold and it flows into tight journals easier so you have less wear on startup. Then it thickens up as the temps rise so you have good oil film under high heat.
Don't go over a 30-point spread from low to high on the numbers unless it's synthetic oil. Big viscosity spreads are achieved via polymers... and polymers don't lubricate. Try a 10-30w oil. I use 0-30w in winter.
Purchasing an 01 Disco. I've got the option of taking a 6yr 100K warranty through LR, or a 4yr unlimited mile warr. through a highly rated 3rd party. LR warranty is about 900 dollars cheaper, but I'm curious as to what people's thoughts are. Anyone have bad experiences ie. denied claims through the LR extended warranty program.
Also, anyone know of a licensed independent repair facility in the Denver metro area? I'm assuming maintenance costs will be less than through the dealership.
Thanks in advance
I have an 01 also and love it, but it does require a lot of maintenance. Also.. a word of advice. Make sure your auto insurance has a low deductible for windshields. The windshield on the Disco is tres expensive! I learned the hard way.
Kevin
They're charging about 1500 for the 72month 100K warranty, but seems like one out of warranty, major repair could eat that up.
I'd already made a mental note to double check the windshield insurance, after seeing the heating grid in the front windshield.
-Ben
*sigh* It's calculating Alaska as a foreign country. As usual!
tidester, host
Highly recommend the experience to Disco owners to get a chance to really understand how and why their car was built.
What could be the cause of this?
Thanks
Thanks
tidester, host
I need to tow a horse trailer this summer. If I start filling up with premium, 93 octane, will the computer advance the timing automatically to give me more power or will I need to go to the dealer and have the computer reset? I assume that the 4.6 liter engine will advance the timing until it notices a knock and then adjust to the quality of fuel it is burning, but I may be wrong.
Tom H.
$700? Forget that!
Sorry!