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Comments
Spark - Have it tuned up... new spark plugs
If neither of these cures your problems, it could be an ignition module, loose connection to ighition switch, ignition switch, or fuel pump.
If it's low mileage, that's a nice car. Have it fixed and keep it.
1) Loss of fuel pressure to the injectors. Cause, Intermittent fuel pump power due to faulty fuel pump relay.
2) Too much fuel pressure to the injectors. Cause, A failing fuel pressure regulator.
3) Loss of 12 Volts to the ignition module. Cause, Intermittent Ignition switch contacts.
4) Failure of the ignition module due to heat. Cause, Heat sink compound deteriorated and not pulling heat from module.
5) Failing ignition coils. Cause old age.
6) Clogged fuel filter. Cause, Debris from Fuel tank clogging output of filter.
These are the first things that come to mind. Now, if you throw enough money at the car, it will fix itself. They put 2 types of engines in the Alero.
A V-6 or a 4 cylinder. If you have a 4 Cylinder engine, there will not be a test port (Referred to as a Schrader Valve) for a fuel pressure test guage.
Your machanic will have to install one for the test. Since the car is a 2003 model, and you only had it for 2 months, I would replace the fuel pump relay by default. You don't know the history of the relay. Your machanic should have the test equipment to test the ignition module. If not, Auto Zone or O'reillys auto parts should be able to test the module. The fuel pressure regulator is a problem. I go through 1 regulator a year. I have a 2000 Alero. I really love it. The Ignition switch is a complicated thing to try to diagnose. Does your Alero have electric door locks? The answer will spawn my next reply. The coils can partially fail meaning they will work for alittle bit but fail due to over heating. If you decide to replace the coils, I recommend replacing all of them at the same time. The fuel filter should be replaced every 80 to 100 thousand miles. That too should be replaced by default, since you really don't know the history.
This is just my 2 cents worth. I have dealt with these issues for the past 2 years on my Alero.
Daniel
Thanks!
Annette
I would highly recommend that you have the after market security system professionally removed. Any time the electrical system of any vehicle
after 1990 has been altered, it has a tendency of messing it up. I know you will not be able to make sure that they do it correctly so PLEASE make sure that the place you take it to is a reputible company. $40.00 is a very good price. Let me know how it works out.
Thanks,
Daniel
The fuel pump may giving you problems
You may have wiring issues, or a faulty ignition switch. (not likely)
You probably don't have a bad coil or bad ignition module. If you did, you would most likely lose spark to only two of your four cylinders, since there are two coils and ignition circuits, a feature built into GM cars to prevent walk-homes. (thank you GM)
Good luck. If you have a service manual, just follow the troubleshooting procedure in the book.
dick B
Thanks,
Randall Sellars
I have had the same experience. After looking at my log book, I found that the fuel pressure regulator failed. When you mentioned engine running rough and surging it brought back memories. Of course Mine failed, as did yours, at work. The way I determined my regulator had failed was, I pulled the vacuum hose off the top of it. Then I turned the key "ON". DO NOT TRY TO START IT. Just turn the key on and watch for any fuel comming out of the top of the regulator where the vacuum hose was. If there is a stream of fuel shooting out, then the regulator has failed and too much fuel is getting to the spark plugs and therefore causing the engine to run rough and surge and quit.
Just my .02 cents worth.
Daniel
I wanted to thank you for your input on my car starting issues. You hit the nail on the head, and the fuel pressure regulator was the problem, and after replacing it, my car runs great. You really did save my butt, because I am on a very tight budget, and I didn't have the money to have it towed, or to go to a shop. I found the part at autozone for about fifty bucks with a one year warranty, and once I had replaced the part and started the car, it ran funny until the air was purged out of the lines, and now it runs like a champ. It was exactly as you said, I took the vacuum line off of the top of the regulator, and gas shot out, and after the replacement, it actually runs better than it did, I had noticed some loss of power, and now that is all in the past. Bless you, and thanks a million!!!
Greatly Appreciated!!
Randall Sellars
I am glad you got your car fixed. I can relate to being on a tight budget.
I bought my 2000 Alero in August 2009 it had 101,000 miles on it when I bought it. I have had my rounds with it though. I have the Haynes repair manual for it. But my log book is thicker than the Haynes manual. I keep a log book because my memory isn't as good as it was years ago.
I am glad I was able to help.
Daniel
'During normal operation, the SECURITY light will go off in approximately five seconds after the ignition key is turned to ON and the engine is started.
If the SECURITY light flashes with the key to ON, wait 10 minutes until the light goes off. Then turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine'.
It is that easy! I know this is a very common problem! I tried this first thing this morning and it started immediately!! Hallelujah!! :-)
I hope this helps... .
All the best!
The answer is a simple modification which you can do at home. You can follow the instructions at:
http://bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity
or..
http://bergerweb.net/PasslockFix
Either method will work. The second solution is for people who cannot solder.
Dick Berger
http://www.bergerweb.net
Rgds,
Jille57
Does anyone out there have an idea of what else would cause this? Thanks
http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/HornCircuit.gif
It's a pretty simple circuit. You should be able to find where the horn wiring is shorted to ground.
The only other possibility is a problem in the Body Control Module. Try cutting the black wire that goes into Connector C1, pin A4 of the Body Control Module (behind the kick panel on the passenger side of the car, just underneath the glove box. two fasteners hold the kick panel in place) If that doesn't solve your problem, you can always splice the wire back together.
The problem is not likely in the Body Control Module, since it is not active when the ignition is off. (Not likely it would have gone off while you were away on vacation.)
Thanks in advance!!
Rgds,
Jille 57 (58)
Sorry for your bad luck.
The passlock system is the same for all Alero's from 1999-2004. Have your mechanic go the link "2003 Oldsmobile Alero Passlock Repair" on my website at http://www.bergerweb.net and follow the instructions to the letter.
If the radio is locked, it's because the mechanic removed it while the battery was connected. This only happens on rare occasions, but to get it working again, you will have to take your car to a Chevrolet Dealer, have them connect the Tech II scan tool to the vehicle, and unlock the radio. This should cost about $25. (more expensive at a Buick or Cadillac Dealer)
If the radio was working before the mechanic removed it, you should get him to pony up the $25.00 to have it re-activated.
Dick B
I'm experiencing a related problem with my 2004 Alero. It's still starting and it hasn't stalled yet, though sometimes I feel the engine's power cutting off for a fraction of a second. What is happening is loss of power to my automatic headlights, radio, ventilation and power windows. It started about a month or so ago showing up just in my radio and windows, now the wider failure is occurring more frequently. One thing that is interesting - this only happens in the morning when I start up the car, not yet in the afternoon commute. The only variation was when I drove it in the morning to the gas station. It was fine in the one mile trip but failed when I restarted. My headlights and dashboard lights go on when I switch on manual lights but my radio and instruments are still out. So far, if I drive for another mile or two, everything starts working again, except sometimes my power windows. Concurrent to this problem has been a tendency for the cruise control to kick itself off seconds after activating. Then I can't restart it until the next trip. I'm wondering if the electrical problems are related. My biggest worry is that my car may start stalling as some of the others on this forum. Hope you answer me soon, I have a Saturday appt at the local Chevy place. Thanks
Dick Berger
http://www.bergerweb.net
Your comment that it's fine in the afternoon but a problem in the morning leads me to wonder if it's a mechanical connection problem due to temperature, i.e. a electrical contact that is expanding/contracting due to the ambient temperature (cooler in the morning, warmer as the day goes on). Just a possibility, we see that often in the aerospace world.
This could be related to a sticky Park Brake Cable or lever. If the Park Brake Switch (which activates the "Brake" light on the dash) gets even the slightest momentary contact, it will cause cruise control to shut off. The cruise control can also kick itself off if the level of brake fluid in the reservoir is too low, also causing the brake light to blink on intermittently from vibration. Make sure your brake fluid reservoir is full, and check to make sure your brake light goes out with still some free play left in your park-brake lever.
Also, when in neutral, what is the engine rpm? (If less than 800rpm, it could be a sticky Idle Air Control.)
Are there any trouble codes stored in your PCM?
Dick B
I agree with altalberta about the ignition switch. I have made several posts about replacing or cleaning the ignition switch. It usually wears out first because of the heavy use it gets on a daily basis. Also, I think that maybe Oldsmobile got a lot of bad switches form the manufacturer when they built the alero. Also, it does not take much dirt to get in there and cause the contacts to wear out faster. Especially since thay are waffer switches. I have yet to replace mine. My alero will start only if the temperature is above 50 degrees. On cold mornings, I have to use a hair drier to heat it up before I can start the car.
Daniel
On the subject of the turn signals, you might find this link helpful
How to Fix Alero Turn Signals
Dick B
That's the only thing I can think of.
Dick B
On your last post, you said the horn was going off. That's not basically the same as your current problem, which is the car stalling out while driving, so let's work on getting it to stop stalling.
1. tune up, including replacing the spark plugs.
2. Replace the fuel filter
3. Check the fuel pressure
My money is on the fuel filter, but you may have a weak fuel pump. If you haven't had a tune-up, spark plugs could be fouled, causing stalling while at idle.
I could really use someone's help. My wife has a 2000 olds alero with 218,000 miles that we have spent a whole lot of money on to keep it goin. The latest issue is that one day she drove the car and it ran fine. She made a few stops i.e the store, kids school...and when she came back to the car it wouldnt start. It would crank and turn over but no start. We towed it to our mechanic and he told us it was the ignition switch which I found to be a lil odd. He said it started for him but the switch was sticking a bit. We went and got the car, let it sit a few days and it started for a whole week. She finally drove it 5 mins away to the store, came back and it would not start again. I checked the fuel rail and it appeared that it wasnt getting any gas so I checked the fuel pump by turning the ignition key to the on position to see if I could hear it and i didnt. So I checked the fuel pump fuse under the hood and it seemed ok so we took it back and had the fuel pump replaced. Our mech told us it started up so we went back to pick it up. She drove it for 3 days and it was starting with no problem...and now its doing it again! We are at our wits end...any ideas, advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Can it really be the ignition switch that is preventing it from starting?
Thanks in advance.
Dee
When the car will not start, is the "SECURITY" light blinking? Is it on solid?
If the answer to these two questions is "NO", replace your fuel filter. (at this mileage, you should have already replaced it three or four times)
If the "SECURITY" light is lit, refer to the instructions on my website at...
Bergerweb.net
There are three methods of bypassing the Passlock system. Use the one that seems best for you.
I have RESET the security multiple times even though no security light shows up. with no change in the condition of the car
I have checked all of the fuses and cables including fallowing them to the neutral position switch, fuse box, relays, switching relays around to see if there is a change, and there is none.
I have by-passed the relay and the starter Cranks so the starter is still good.
I have used a test light on the crank fuse, and when the key turns to the start position the crank(10A) fuse lights up and works.
I have switched batteries and put chargers on them to make sure I have good battery power.
I have put the car in neutral and all other positions and still the starter doesn't crank.
I have hooked up a code reader and the reader would not connect to the car/ would not recognize a connection. ( I dont know why?)
I did notice the radio said calibration on it but I'm not sure what that is trying to tell me.
I'm Out of ideas and need help, I find it hard to believe that the ignition went bad and I need a new tumbler and set of keys when their has never been a problem.
PLEASE HELP!!
1. Broken wire in the control circuity, caused by the original crash.
2. Park/Neutral Switch not engaged properly. (must be in park/Neutral to start)
3. Clutch Switch not engaged. (clutch must be depressed to start)
Here is a wiring diagram of my 2002 Grand Am, which should be very close to what you have. I hope it helps.
You can left click on the image and choose "view image" to get a bigger view.
Dick B