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Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair

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    troopernatetroopernate Member Posts: 3
    try myisuzuparts.com

    they have alot of diagrams too.
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    viking66viking66 Member Posts: 3
    I have the tank off, There are about 8 screws on top of tank where the fuel pump assembly is. They are all rusted, how do i get the pump assembly out of the tank. Do i unscrew these or do i unscrew the intire unit ..
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    viking66viking66 Member Posts: 3
    the diagrams do not show how it comes appart, it only shows it in parts.. I dont know if it was unscrewed from the tank as a whole or if the 8 screws were what holds in on.. they are not usable.. they are rusted so bad a screw driver will not bite on them..
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    JoeGrassyCreekJoeGrassyCreek Member Posts: 1
    My 1990 Trooper runs fine for a while, and then it periodically just dies. All of the warning lights come on, and it's like some one just flipped a switch and turned it off. It has power to all circuits, except there is no spark at all to the spark plugs.

    There is no pattern to this that I can discern. Sometimes it runs for three or four months before it does it. Sometimes it's a day. Sometimes it won't start for a week or more, and other times it will start back up in a few minutes. It does it in dry weather and wet. It does it when it's hot and when it's cold.

    I have replaced all of the relays and the coil.

    Anyone have any idea where to look next?
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    mlgsrmlgsr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 trooper with 6cyl. It will start ok in the morning and run right, but after it gets warm, it is hard to start again. I normally just use starter fluid to get it going, but even that is getting hard. When that fails, I can just let it sit for a while and it will start and run ok ... till i shut it off again. I tried replacing the fuel filter, but no difference, and I have the error codes but can't find what they refer to.

    #'s = 32, 34, 43, 54

    any suggestions?

    thanks

    mike
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    marcocruzmarcocruz Member Posts: 1
    I am installing a new radiator.I need to remove the transmission cooling lines.What size flare wrench do I need?Any other advise ,as well ,would be appreciated.thanks.
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    muttley1muttley1 Member Posts: 15
    Did you ever receive any replies? I have two 2002 Troopers, and neither seems to burn too much oil. Have only had them for a year or so each, and both have less than 50k miles. This is a concern I have seen raised before, with no clear answers as I recall - other than check the level regularly.
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    jbourne3jbourne3 Member Posts: 6
    does anyone has any instruction or know where I can find instruction on how to replace driver side seat belt? i have a 2000 isuzu trooper LS. Many thanks

    Jason
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    troopster1troopster1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 trooper 4X4. When I have to stop suddenly or brake all the way to a stop, the rear suspension sort of "clunks" when I let off of the brake. It feels like something is going back into place. It is also like when you let off of the gas suddenly and the transmission drops into a higher gear. The truck rides and shifts smooth while driving, it only does it when I let off the brake after stopping. I have looked underneath to see if any bushings are missing, but there is nothing noticeable. It feels like a bushing of mount issue. Just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced something like this.
    Thanks
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    pvman1pvman1 Member Posts: 3
    I am trying to do a timing belt change. Large power steering fitting and hose is preventing the removal of top left plastic belt cover. I want to loosen and move pump assembly slightly out of the way, rather than break open the banjo fitting/hose and go through filling and bleeding pwr steering system. I removed the long bolt that shop manual shows to be the pivot bolt, as well as bolt that tightens down the the adjusting plate. Pump assembly pivots but won't come off? Can't figure out what the heck is holding it from coming off. What is the problem? I can't see anywhere it is still bolted on in spite of looking at it from every angle possible.
    Thanks,
    Gene
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    belizeanbelizean Member Posts: 4
    Just had my 99 Isuzu transmission rebuilt. It works perfect. but when I am climbing any hill or slopes it starts a staggering. Also at times when trying to overtake another vehicle on the highway it would staggered and would not accelerate nor gear down for power.
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    belizeanbelizean Member Posts: 4
    My remote for the alarm system on my 99 trooper doesn't work anymore. Does anyone knows where I can get one? Thanks for your help.
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    extexcopextexcop Member Posts: 1
    You should be able to buy one on eBay...I did. They are around $20...but you may find them cheaper. The first thing I would do is check the battery in your old one. They are very cheap and easy to replace. Now...even if the battery gets your old one working again....I would highly recommend you get a second or back-up opener. It's a lot more trouble ( and higher cost ) to re-program system if you happen to lose the only one you have.
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    chris263chris263 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 2wd Trooper that has the same issue. After research, I believe that it has something to do with the slip yolk. I have had grease added through the zerk fitting but it didn't work. I will be trying to take apart the slip yolk, clean out the old grease and try Red Crown grease. I saw that is the recommended product. Not sure if that helps but that is what I will try.
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    oilburner1oilburner1 Member Posts: 2
    as everyone else reports the 3.5 burns oil....lots of oil....yesterday I added a half of container of STP fuel injector cleaner to 1/2 tank of gas and then it started smoking (white smoke) and then today with it still smoking and driving it on the freeway at 60 mph and going about 5miles and pulling off to get more gas hoping that would delute the gas with the additive, it died and would not re-start (the batter tried to turn the engine over but would not do so. Then adding more oil (it was low 2.5 quarts) and pulling it with tow strap it started up immediately but with a metalic knocking sound and all with good oil pressure, then drove it a block or two and it dies again. Towed it back home......now what? Dont know what to think about the sound.....should I have it towed into the shop or could someone suggest a possible cause and possible solution. it's a 98 with 170,000 miles on it but otherwise in great shape. and nothing else has happened to it with the exception of a replaced starter and new plugs. It does have a blinking engine light that has stayed on for awhile but the reading on that indicates its a air temperature valve which i replaced a couple of times but then the light came back on and I have just been driving it with the light blinking. sorry to ramble but wanted to explain what else was going on about the vehicle. All suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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    pvman1pvman1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Trooper with the 3.2 SOHC engine. Purchased it new in 95, and it now has 128,000 mi. Have taken good care of it and it uses about 1 qt every 3,000 mi. Starts and runs like a top. Just did the second timing belt, belt pullies, and water pump replacement. My question.... I keep reading about these horror stories. What year did Isuzu screw up this great vehicle? Or, should I start to worry. My daughter bought an 01 and it was a nightmare. Engine and transmission problems. I know she had the 3.5 DOHC and a different transmission.
    Hope mine keeps going. Body and interior looks great, frame and undercarriage looks like hell from the salt they insist on using in upstate NY.
    Gene :confuse:
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    ssimsssims Member Posts: 1
    Hello! My 91 Isuzu Trooper has an automatic transmission. All of a sudden my truck starts to shake at 35mph and then again at 45mph. I'm not leaking transmission fluid. Please give me some sort of insight on this. :confuse:
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    andyplainandyplain Member Posts: 1
    This is not good buddy... I have a 2000 Trooper same knocking noise and I had to rebuild my motor @ 95k.

    Apparently the motor used up the entire 5 qts of oil and damaged the crankshaft and barrings. My truck ran nice even idled with a slight knocking until accelerated it was a loud knocking... I found a mechanic who charged me in Miami,FL $3000.00 to completely overhaul my motor with all new parts..

    The truck in running great now better than new...

    Good Luck, Now I started to use Lukas Oil and check the oil every time I put Gas.
    :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
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    surfdaddy1surfdaddy1 Member Posts: 2
    i have just replaced the gas tank ,fuel pump, fuel filter on 90, 4cyl, it starts right up and i can rev it to redlineand idle and sit running for 30 min or more but as soon as i start to drive it ,it will die out in 30 sec. then will start back up and do it again/any ideas??? thanks
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    ben50ben50 Member Posts: 1
    On 1990 Izuzu trooper - it starts but quits almost immediately when I release the key. While still running, the fuel, alternator and check engine lights are on. If I keep the starter engaged and rev it really high, the lights will go out and it will stay running when key released. I've replaced all bad vacuum hoses that I can find. No loose wires at alternator. All fuses good. Very occasionally, it will start and run without that rev up. Any suggestions?
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    surfdaddy1surfdaddy1 Member Posts: 2
    1990 trooper 4cyl. ,5 speed manual, i just got this truck back running, it was sitting 6 months /new clutch 1 year,1500 miles old working perfect, now the clutch will not fully engage/it will go in every gear but have major slippage/is it just hung up and need a good smack? any ideas?
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    2002trooper35l2002trooper35l Member Posts: 1
    I drained my transmission through the plug on the pan but the level in the plastic fill cylinder remained the same. I want to refill my transmission with fluid but i can't figure out how to get the fluid under the hood to drain down into the transmission. Anyone have any advice for me?
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    belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    Gene - I have a 1996 Trooper - same engine as yours. Only have 90,000 miles, but mine is the same story. Starts and runs like a top. Engine is smooth and vibration free. Changed the timing belt and water pump about 58,000 miles, so I have a few more miles to go until the next change out. Interior is in good shape, no rust on the body, paint is still shiny, minus a few parking lot dings. My mechanic keeps telling me the Trooper has lots of rust underneath, but so what! When I look under the car, some items are rusty, like the frame and cross members. Other items (body and all sheet metal) are rust free. Motor only uses perhaps 1 quart of oil every 3000 miles (just about the time it is ready to go for an oil change / service). I plan on keeping this one until the wheels fall off!

    Bel Air Car Guy
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    isuzudanisuzudan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Trooper that passes CA smog except for HC emmissions. Because the car was last registered in Santa Cruz, the tester does not use the dyno, and it is the low idle that is worst. I have changed the plugs, cleaned the injectors, changed to oil (with an engine flush), changed the air filter, and retarded the timing. The HC went up! Anyone have a tip for me? Thanks, Dan
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    Goalie69Goalie69 Member Posts: 8
    I have two repair related questions for my 2002 Trooper that has 74,000 miles on it. I’m far from a car expert and would appreciate any feedback.

    First, I was told that I need to replace my serpentine belt. Is the 74,000 mile mark a common point in time for replacing this belt, and what would be a reasonable price to pay an auto mechanic to replace this?

    Secondly, my car is using up oil. However, there is absolutely no leaking anywhere, nor is there blue smoke coming from my car as if it’s burning oil. Are there any common known issues of this type associated with the Trooper, and what could it be? Approximately what would it cost to resolve the issue?

    Thanks in advance.
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    wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Serpentine belt... 10 minutes to do it yourself. Just note the route about the front of the engine so you can do it yourself. It takes a socket and ratchet to rotate one of the tension idlers to provide enough slack to get the belt back on.

    Note on this. Last year at rotation time on some Firestone tires I was quoted $140 to replace the Serpentine belt. I picked one up later for around $30 at Advance or Autozone. They can even print out the belt layout for you.

    A lot of Troopers will burn a quart every 1500 to 3000 miles. Not a problem and probably not much you can do to change that. Just check the oil level when you fill up so you don't run low and burn up the engine. My '00 might burn a quart every 2000-2500 miles...not a problem.
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    cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I agree - replacing the belt is a good DIY project but it will take more like 30 minutes for those of us who have two left hands for this kind of stuff (plus you have to figure out which bolt to turn). You can pick a nice premium belt (got mine from amazon for $25) and save lots of money at the same time. I replaced my 2002's at 50K - it was cracked on the inside. 70K+ is late - do it ASAP.
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    Goalie69Goalie69 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the feedback on the serpentine belt. I'll take a look at doing it myself.

    However, the low oil may be an issue. After the oil light went on, I stopped at the dealership where I purchased my car, and it was down 4 quarts since the last oil change, which was about 2,000 miles ago. But, there is no burning smell, no smoke, no leaking underneath, and no residue coming out of the exhaust pipe.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks
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    robarrerobarre Member Posts: 2
    I was given a 1993 Trooper......I got it running and want to know if anyone in the Dallas, Texas area can recommend a good place to do some work on it. Specifically some overhaul/restoration work.

    Thanks, and I am glad i found this site.
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    troopertrblstroopertrbls Member Posts: 2
    Hello fellow Trooper owners, I am experiencing some expensive problems with my '99 Trooper, 5 speed manual. I have been trying in vain to get her running right. She is consuming alot of oil. I have to add oil every 1000-1500 miles after the 3,000 mile oil change. I recently learned that it may be due to sticking Piston Rings. The sticking Piston Rings can result in Piston Rod failure, thus resulting in replacement of the block which can cost at least $4,000.00 w/labor add on $1235.00.

    So, if you are having the same problems, I hope the above helps.
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    morpheus249morpheus249 Member Posts: 1
    About Your Post!!! I seem to be having the same problem with mine and I am ata loss. I have No clue. I thought it might be the transmission, but no its not. and fortunately I'm not getting any "blow back" at the moment. but everything else sounds all too much the same. Please. any info would be greatly appreciated!!
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    robarrerobarre Member Posts: 2
    isuzudan,

    have you tried RXP ? It is a fuel additive that helps the engine burn hydrocarbons more completely.
    I use it in EVERY vehicle I own and have NEVER had an emissions test failure. The CA standards are more strict than TX but it should help.
    I buy mine at Autozone.

    (I do not sell, or own stock or in any way benefit financially from anyone using this product)
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    faraidunfaraidun Member Posts: 1
    Hi every body
    my Isuzu 1994 Trooper ,the (Check Trans.)light is flashing time to time and when this light is flashing there's no automatic shifting and the speed is gone please help.
    thanks.
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    troopertrblstroopertrbls Member Posts: 2
    What's up Morpheus249, my Trooper has about 91K miles on it. I have never had any problem with her except for the oil consumption issue. It started with what looks like an oil and water mixture exiting the tailpipe. Then the gaskets failed and she was getting too much air. Had gaskets replaced & she ran better, but still drank oil. So I went to a different Isuzu Dealer and asked about the oil issue. I forgot to mention that my new dealer said it would cost $2,000-$2,500 to replace the Piston Rings w/labor. I know I cannot afford it, but it beats $4,000 to replace the Short Block.
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    Goalie69Goalie69 Member Posts: 8
    First of all I’d like to thank those who provided feedback about how to replace a Serpentine Belt. Even for a non-mechanical type like myself, I was able to replace it within the 10-30 minute range that was suggested by others.

    I have another issue that I’d appreciate any feedback on. My Trooper, like many others in this forum, has been sucking oil. In addition, I hear kind of a hollow, metal grinding type sound when my car is accelerating, and then it goes away when the car is done shifting gears. A mechanic told me that it was a PCV Valve issue, and that the valve was sticking open, causing the car to use more oil than normal. He pulled the PCV Valve, cleaned it up with some spray, and replaced the valve. The sound has gotten better, but is still there, and it is still using oil, making me think that the PCV Valve is still partially stuck open.

    My question is should I go buy and replace the PCV Valve myself? It looked fairly easy (pull the vacuum hose, and pull out the PCV Valve), and would only cost about $6 for the PCV Valve.

    Does the diagnosis from the mechanic sound plausible, and is the PCV Valve as easy to replace as it looks.

    Thanks in advance!
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    wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    While I have seen stuck PCV valves on other vehicles, changing the one on my '00 Trooper did not change oil consumption. Maybe 1/2 quart 1500-2000 miles or so. Yes, IIRC it took longer to wash up afterwards than to actually change the PCV valve. I just try to remember to check and add before it gets too low. 147,000 miles and still getting along about as well as ever.
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    Goalie69Goalie69 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the comment. Any idea if changing the PCV valve would resolve that issue of the hollow, metal grinding type sound when my car is accelerating?
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    wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    re: hollow, metal grinding type sound when accelerating.

    Nope, can't think what that could be. This has an outside chance of being related to the air induction stuff described below. I have noticed a sound which I kink of relate to this when accelerating but would not describe as 'grindin'. Maybe more of a whooosh or hum:

    http://www.autoworld.com/news/isuzu/2000trooper.htm

    Of particular interest is the engine's sophisticated induction system. The variable air-intake system employs a butterfly valve that effectively lengthens or shortens the length of the intake track depending on the operating speed of the engine. Below 3600 rpm the valve closes. effectively lengthening the intake track. The longer track increases the volume of air, providing high torque at low and intermediate speeds. As engine speed increases over 3600 rpm, the solenoid switch turns off, shortening the port thereby increasing volumetric efficiency and providing high torque at high engine speeds
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    goddesscleogoddesscleo Member Posts: 2
    Not sure if you're still around, did you ever find a solution to your Trooper problem? I have an 89' 2.8 TBI with the same symptoms...only now it's been sitting at a mechanics for awhile (not a good mechanic, and by awhile...I mean a little over a year) So now that the fire is under my a**, I'm in desperate need to just get it fixed. It's at a new mechanics now :-/. I believe the fuel throttle body and distributor are to blame. Sinking more money into this Trooper is getting scary! Let me know if you have any insight. I'm a girl so if my "auto repair lingo" is not correct then please go easy on me...I'm trying!
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    oilburner1oilburner1 Member Posts: 2
    Actually, my trooper is still sitting at the meachanic's place also. No, I have not found the simple absolute answer to my problem but most likely will get it towed in a month or so and most likely will have the engine overhauled, (meaning a rebuilt short block) at about $1500.000 which is a lot less than the mechanic was going to charge be to install a used engine @ %4,000.00

    Sorry I am not able to add any insight to what your problem might be...still dealing with finding answer.
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    jake1216jake1216 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 Trooper Ltd. Today for the first time, while driving, I heard this rattling in the rear cargo area. It got louder as I accelerated. At first I thought it was something vibrating against something or I had picked up a branch. But when I got out to look I couldn't see anything. Then, while still idling, I could hear the "rattling" near the driver's side of the rear wheel. What could it be?
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    goddesscleogoddesscleo Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply! I never did find the answer. I replaced the distributor and throttle body. I suspect it was the timing belt. Argh, I had to sell it! Glad you were able to avoid getting ripped off!
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    mparrott624mparrott624 Member Posts: 2
    Just bought Trooper II Diesel and drove 8-10 miles lost power and quit ? Will not start back ? I changed fuel filter and fuel. I fell in love with this Trooper and now just heart broke over it. I don't know very much at all about Diesel Engine. Can't afford mechanic. If all else fails what motor(s) will fit. I have a Toyota T-100, and heard a 22 R motor will fit. I will be grateful for any advice. thanks Mike Parrott TN
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    rlpearcerlpearce Member Posts: 1
    Sorry to be a little lengthy here but I'll try to give you as much information as I can so that you can hopefully help. I recently replaced the 2.8 engine in my friends 89 Trooper with a new "pickled" 91 engine he had purchased. The engine was complete with all accessories and appeared absolutely identical to the 89 engine. Installation went straight forward but when I tried to start it there was no fuel coming from the injectors. A few drops into the throttle body and it fired instantly but of course then died. There is pressure to the TBI and voltage to the injectors when the key is on. With the injector connectors removed there is 14v on one wire and 11v on the other, the same for both injector connectors. Seems strange to me, thought one should be going to ground at the ECM. Also, while checking with the key on I discovered (by getting zapped) that the coil is producing steady high voltage output current without the engine turning! What's with that? I tried to check for codes but with the key on there's no check engine light on. Bulb's good, power to it, but no ground connection. The wiring diagram says it grounds at the ECM. I drove this vehicle into the shop so it seems unlikely that the problem is the ECM but I don't have another one handy to check it. Any thoughts? I'd really like to finish this for my friend before his warranty on the new engine expires.
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    attoe2attoe2 Member Posts: 1
    My transmition in my 2001 trooper 2wd is giving me a hard jerk we I go to leave for work first thing in the morning, or if it has been sitting a long time. If I let the car warm up for about 5 to ten minutes, it will not do it. It only does it after I have started the car cold and do not warm it up. It does not do it driving down the road, or the rest of the day, as long as the car has not been sitting for a while. Any info would be helpful.
    Thanks.
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    dondada1dondada1 Member Posts: 1
    when i turn my ignition swicth to the on position the indicator does not come on ,if the bulb is blown does that affect my alt. from charging or do i need another alt. because the say my alt. going bad. has any one had this problem and if so what was the outcome. :confuse:
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    00troopers00troopers Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Trooper takes about 15 seconds to get out of park after pressing the brake while running. Could the safety switch or relay need replacing? If so can the safety switch be replaced? Also while the shifter is in D, if the handle is bumped slightly it will drop down into third without the selector actually getting to that position. Is it possible to adjust the linkage to prevent this? I also noticed that the dash selector doesn't always display the selector position although it will be within one gear. Obviously somethings not quite right here but I would apprectiate some input.
    thanks,
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    jjc353jjc353 Member Posts: 1
    After I drove my 2000 Isuzu 3.5L vehicle from the transmission place, I noticed that the idle is low and the vehicle is about to die on me every time I stop. The Mechanic who rebuild the transmission said that I need to take the vehicle to the Isuzu dealer for that.
    Please anyone advise
    Thanks
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    bsw1bsw1 Member Posts: 6
    Hello
    i have a 1991 Isuzu trooper
    last night it was driving fine, at a red light i stopped when i accelerated it felt like the emergency brake was on. i stopped and put in park and shut it off.afeter about 15 minutes i started it and it drove fine for about 10 minutes i slowed down and it did it again..this happenbed a few times.
    the next day i checked my tranny fluid ..LOWi had my tranny flushed and new oil put in about 9 months agao..why low??no leaks??
    R
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    jenjerjenjer Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Trooper. Believe it or not, a rattling near the rear fender (although on the passenger side) was a speaker! When it was replaced, the rattling disappeared. That was right after I purchased it in 2002. Just started the same type of "rattling" so I guess we'll try replacing the speaker again.
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