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Now the funny thing I encountered was....I tried with the dealership, told it was my driving habits, District Parts guy supposedly looked at it (their story didn't line up so I think I was lied to), all my fault (or my wife's) and no more goodwill repairs. I file a BBB AUTO LINE complaint and guess who comes calling...KIA Corporate. Lady promised to review the information I sent to her (all my service records) and she would call me within a couple of days. In the meantime, BBB determined the claim was not eligible because the van has 24,500 miles and they handle claims up to 24,000....they would not take into account the dates of service that I had the repeated issue. The response was copied to KIA and of course I have never heard back from the lady in Irvine again....
Long story short....spread the word! The cars look OK, price is OK and included features in the base model are all attractive but the cost of ownership will EAT YOU ALIVE! :mad:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KIA-SEDONA-06-07-08-BRAKE-ROTORS-PADS-F_W0QQitemZ- - 330371986878QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cebb- - 475be
I went to my dealership and installed them for $200, I have the luck to have excellent customer service at my Kia dealership. I haven't had any squealing since last year (I think) since I installed them and no other problems. I live in Tyler where we have small hills, and I drive mostly in the city. Not even when is humid outside I don't have any problem. I have to check how many miles i have since I changed them. I have a 2007 model. I am very happy otherwise with my car, I am sorry that other people have these issues. Is not a bad car. Every other car and van on the market would have issues. there is no perfection. Try looking at other vans problems and you will see each one has its' own quirk.
Good luck!
The biggest enemy of brakes is heat. So reduce the heat save the pad and the rotor. R1concepts is a good company, the one I originally purchased my rotors and pads from. You can also go on e-bay and just look a the packages other companies offer, which are essentially the same thing.
You want cross-drilled / slotted rotors and performance pads on all four wheels. The parts should run you between four to five hundred shipped to your door. Then go to pepboys or your dealer / personal mechanic and have them installed for about one hundred and fifty bucks. Pads life will vary because of mostly driving habits, conditions, and weight of your van.
On my 2006 my front pads lasted 14k because I live in Puerto Rico. Hot all the time and constant city driving. My new setup has 16k miles on them and I'm not even halfway through my front pads yet. This means my current setup is lasting over twice as long as the factory pads / rotors.
This should help all you pre 2006 Sedona owners particular because of your extra weight.
2006+
http://www.r1concepts.com/KIA/SEDONA/2006/All/AllCategory/SearchResultsPage.htm
2005 and under:
http://www.r1concepts.com/KIA/SEDONA/2005/All/AllCategory/SearchResultsPage.htm
We also went with aftermarket drilled & slotted rotors on our '06 to avoid a potential accident. Hit one puddle and the OEM's warped big time. All Kia gave us was denial. :P
If you want to know about real problems go over to the Honda Odyssey page and look at the amount of transmission failures where customers are stuck with as high as $3,500.00 + bill.
This should put into perspective the amount you pay for pads and having your rotors turned compared to replacing the transmission. This is not including the $5,000.00 to $12,000.00 you saved (or should have saved) over purchasing the Sienna or Odyssey.
Both the Sienna and the Odyssey have there fair share of problems but unfortunately people always think the grass is greener on the other side of the hill.
The Kia Sedona is far from being perfect but the redesign in 2006 made major improvements although, they still have their quirks just like all the manufacturers.
It is difficult for people to get over a bad experience, probably most never will. If you look at the Honda problems there are countless people saying they will never buy another Honda but we all know, without being delusional, they do make some great products. I do hope this helps brings a little bit of the reality to the real market.
Otherwise, one might be like the person who purchased an $27,000.00 Prius thinking he / she is getting gas mileage then the person who purchased a $14,000.00 Elantra. Delusional.
Before you say its our driving habits, we also have a station wagon and SUV that are 5 and 11 years old each without requiring rotor work. Read the posts, lots of owners of the new Sedona are having rotor issues; the geniuses at Kia decided to continue to cheap out on the rotors of the redesign despite problems with the older model.
Nevertheless, I will gladly take on brake pads over the thousands I have saved in purchase price and the extended powertrain warranty. I agree Jim, Kia could have done a better job but think of what you have for the price you paid. Can't have everything...
Just a heads up. Pepboys offers pads now with lifetime warranty and no labor cost if they have to be replaced within a year, otherwise you just pay for labor. When I replaced my pads I went with this deal and kept my cross drilled / slotted rotors. Those do help a lot in brake feel and they are not expensive.
cause this concern.
Can anyone shed some light on this??
Thanks
Dear Mr. Ahn and Kia America,
I have discussed the above referenced case with [Kia Motors Customer Service rep] without resolution from my view. [Service rep] response to the case was that brakes (rotors) are not a warranty item and Kia Motors will therefore not cover the cost of their replacement.
I agree that [service rep] applied the letter of your warranty. However, I am surprised that your rotors need replacing at approximately 20,000 miles due to warping / hard spots, which may have been the result of Kia Motors or Kia dealer actions. I am also surprised that Kia Motors is only concerned with two possible causes of this warping: caliper defect (which was not the case), and driver misuse. There are additional cited causes for warping rotors that I have found (some research included below): poor quality castings of rotors, and mis-tightening of the lug nuts. We have had our tires rotated at Kia dealers, who could have mis-tightened the lug nuts. Regarding driver misuse, we had a Honda Odyssey (with same driver, driving habits, and mix of local and highway driving) that we drove in steeper terrain and had no brake issues until 60,000 miles.
I am very disappointed that Kia Motors is unwilling to actively consider all the potential reasons for the warping of the rotors on our Sedona, and participate in the expense of the repair, given that fault for either driver misuse or dealer mis-tightening of lug nuts is not possible to prove (that I am aware of). [service rep] spoke with the dealer who was willing to provide a 10% discount on the parts and labor, which I do not believe fully addresses that there is a possibility that the dealer was at fault for mis-tightening the lug nuts, nor does it address the possibility that there as a problem with the castings from Kia Motors
[Service rep] was not willing to look at the research I had done, nor was she informed on the potential causes for rotor warping beyond the information that the dealer had told her. I would expect Kia Motors to have a depth of knowledge on all parts of their vehicle, especially a part as important as the brakes. Service rep was also not willing to have Kia Motors inspect the rotor for material defects beyond the dealer looking at the rotors, which I do not know if that level of visual inspection can determine a problem with the castings.
I request two things from Kia Motors: consideration of all the possible causes for the rotors warping on our Sedona at approximately 20,000; a fair participation in the cost of replacement given the potential causes.
----
[Information from internet research – I would be very pleased to receive copies of research that Kia Motors has available on rotor life and causes for rotor warping]
• Rotor warpage. Variation in the thickness of the rotor or uneven spots on either rotor face will cause the brake pedal to pulsate or shudder when the brakes are applied. Flatness can be checked by placing a straight edge against both faces of the rotor. Thickness must be checked with a micrometer at six or more points around the rotor.
• If parallelism between rotor faces exceeds OEM specs (generally about .0005 in.), or if the rotor is warped or has hard spots (which are often discolored blue or black), the rotor should be resurfaced or replaced. Hard spots that develop from overheating or uneven tightening of lug nuts can create raised areas on the surface that often extend below the surface. The metallurgical changes in the rotor often cause the hard spots to return after a few thousand miles so replacing the rotor may be the best long-term fix.
http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/car_care_tips/brake_rotors_problems.htm
A brake pedal pulsation or shudder is one of the most common symptoms that indicates rotor trouble. The cause may be too much runout in a rotor and/or variation in the thickness of the rotor. Runout occurs when the rotor wobbles as it rotates. This may be due to runout in the hub, runout in the way the rotor was originally machined, rust or dirt between the rotor and hub, or uneven torquing of the lug nuts that causes distortion in the rotor and hub (which is why lug nuts should always be tightened to specifications with a torque wrench, not an impact gun).
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/703/the_great_rotor_debate__knowing_w- hen_to_resurface_or_replace.aspx
Anybody who works on brakes for a living knows that rotors can cause a lot of brake problems. Uneven rotor wear (which may be due to excessive rotor runout or rotor distortion) often produces variations in thickness that can be felt as pedal pulsations when the brakes are applied. The condition usually worsens as the rotors continue to wear, eventually requiring the rotors to be resurfaced or replaced.
Rotors can also develop hard spots that contribute to pedal pulsations and variations in thickness. Hard spots may be the result of poor quality castings or from excessive heat that causes changes in the metallurgy of the rotors. A sticky caliper or dragging brake may make the rotor run hot and increase the risk of hard spots forming. Hard spots can often be seen as discolored patches on the face of the rotor. Resurfacing the rotor is only a temporary fix because the hard spot usually extends well below the surface and usually returns as a pedal pulsation within a few thousand miles. That is why most brake experts replace rotors that have developed hard spots.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm
Rotor runout can be caused by several things: variations in manufacturing tolerances, sloppy resurfacing procedures, a buildup of rust and corrosion between the rotor and hub, and uneven torque on the lug nuts.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm
Dear Mr. Ahn and Kia America,
I have discussed the above referenced case with [Kia Motors Customer Service rep] without resolution from my view. [Service rep] response to the case was that brakes (rotors) are not a warranty item and Kia Motors will therefore not cover the cost of their replacement.
I agree that [service rep] applied the letter of your warranty. However, I am surprised that your rotors need replacing at approximately 20,000 miles due to warping / hard spots, which may have been the result of Kia Motors or Kia dealer actions. I am also surprised that Kia Motors is only concerned with two possible causes of this warping: caliper defect (which was not the case), and driver misuse. There are additional cited causes for warping rotors that I have found (some research included below): poor quality castings of rotors, and mis-tightening of the lug nuts. We have had our tires rotated at Kia dealers, who could have mis-tightened the lug nuts. Regarding driver misuse, we had a Honda Odyssey (with same driver, driving habits, and mix of local and highway driving) that we drove in steeper terrain and had no brake issues until 60,000 miles.
I am very disappointed that Kia Motors is unwilling to actively consider all the potential reasons for the warping of the rotors on our Sedona, and participate in the expense of the repair, given that fault for either driver misuse or dealer mis-tightening of lug nuts is not possible to prove (that I am aware of). [service rep] spoke with the dealer who was willing to provide a 10% discount on the parts and labor, which I do not believe fully addresses that there is a possibility that the dealer was at fault for mis-tightening the lug nuts, nor does it address the possibility that there as a problem with the castings from Kia Motors
[Service rep] was not willing to look at the research I had done, nor was she informed on the potential causes for rotor warping beyond the information that the dealer had told her. I would expect Kia Motors to have a depth of knowledge on all parts of their vehicle, especially a part as important as the brakes. Service rep was also not willing to have Kia Motors inspect the rotor for material defects beyond the dealer looking at the rotors, which I do not know if that level of visual inspection can determine a problem with the castings.
I request two things from Kia Motors: consideration of all the possible causes for the rotors warping on our Sedona at approximately 20,000; a fair participation in the cost of replacement given the potential causes.
----
[Information from internet research – I would be very pleased to receive copies of research that Kia Motors has available on rotor life and causes for rotor warping]
• Rotor warpage. Variation in the thickness of the rotor or uneven spots on either rotor face will cause the brake pedal to pulsate or shudder when the brakes are applied. Flatness can be checked by placing a straight edge against both faces of the rotor. Thickness must be checked with a micrometer at six or more points around the rotor.
• If parallelism between rotor faces exceeds OEM specs (generally about .0005 in.), or if the rotor is warped or has hard spots (which are often discolored blue or black), the rotor should be resurfaced or replaced. Hard spots that develop from overheating or uneven tightening of lug nuts can create raised areas on the surface that often extend below the surface. The metallurgical changes in the rotor often cause the hard spots to return after a few thousand miles so replacing the rotor may be the best long-term fix.
http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/car_care_tips/brake_rotors_problems.htm
A brake pedal pulsation or shudder is one of the most common symptoms that indicates rotor trouble. The cause may be too much runout in a rotor and/or variation in the thickness of the rotor. Runout occurs when the rotor wobbles as it rotates. This may be due to runout in the hub, runout in the way the rotor was originally machined, rust or dirt between the rotor and hub, or uneven torquing of the lug nuts that causes distortion in the rotor and hub (which is why lug nuts should always be tightened to specifications with a torque wrench, not an impact gun).
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/703/the_great_rotor_debate__knowing_w- - hen_to_resurface_or_replace.aspx
Anybody who works on brakes for a living knows that rotors can cause a lot of brake problems. Uneven rotor wear (which may be due to excessive rotor runout or rotor distortion) often produces variations in thickness that can be felt as pedal pulsations when the brakes are applied. The condition usually worsens as the rotors continue to wear, eventually requiring the rotors to be resurfaced or replaced.
Rotors can also develop hard spots that contribute to pedal pulsations and variations in thickness. Hard spots may be the result of poor quality castings or from excessive heat that causes changes in the metallurgy of the rotors. A sticky caliper or dragging brake may make the rotor run hot and increase the risk of hard spots forming. Hard spots can often be seen as discolored patches on the face of the rotor. Resurfacing the rotor is only a temporary fix because the hard spot usually extends well below the surface and usually returns as a pedal pulsation within a few thousand miles. That is why most brake experts replace rotors that have developed hard spots.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm
Rotor runout can be caused by several things: variations in manufacturing tolerances, sloppy resurfacing procedures, a buildup of rust and corrosion between the rotor and hub, and uneven torque on the lug nuts.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm
I have been through this whole list and have the same severe pulsating problem on my 2005 Sedona. I do NOT ride my brakes, drive with two feet, or drive agressively. Anyone who claims that's the reason is full of it. And I live in central Ohio, one of the flattest regions in the country. And I have driven probably 200,000 miles in various modern passenger cars and minivans with NO such problems.
I have been to the Kia dealer multiple times, and the ONLY change is that I am now over $1000 poorer. Absolutely no fix, and they will not repair further unless I keep paying them. I do not see how that's legal, so I am exploring my options.
Anyone who found a fix - PLEASE POST IT!!
thanks all,
dave
I had a 2007 Sedona and fixed my issue with the drilled cross rotors and pads from R1Concepts. I changed my car into a 2009 Sedona and I changed them directyly from 13.000 just in case and I have been having them for another 13k and doing good. The R1 concepts have very good customer service and as a return customer I got a discount, 450 plus the 150 to change them. I am good, no squealing. I am happy with my Sedona.
dave
OK so now about a month after getting the pads changed and I am still squeal and pulsing free!!!! The whole service from Pep Boys was under $200 and they had to do a little rotor work. It was the ceramic pads, nothing fancy beyond that!
Here is a link to their page...
Pep Boys Brakes
Good luck! I would be interested to hear what you end up doing.
Bryan
Thanks again,
dave
No problems what so ever using these rotors. R 1 Concepts rotors were better than the KIA, but still warped after a few months. Brake Performance rotors are guaranteed against warping, and they did not!
Anyone have any answers! I need help! :lemon: :sick: :confuse:
Brakes- I put on slotted and cross drilled rotors . the only other problen I had was two calibers hang up. Make sure the proper grease on the sliding points on the calibers.
I am not sure if you are still out there... but we brought our 2010 sedona to the dealer today for routine maintenance but also to check for a clicking/knocking that we kept hearing everytime we started to slow down to a complete stop. They, of course, said that they didn't hear it... so didn't do anything. Anyone else having the issue still? Thank you! :mad:
I came across areion brakes ....have any of you heard of them?
They shipped me the exact rotors and pads for $212 all in. Have you ever heard of them?
http://www.areionbrakes.com/