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Thank you for your reply. The engine I have is the 6 cyclinder. I installed a flush kit and that fixed the problem. I talked to a person at a local auto parts store and he said I need to remove the radiator cap and let the engine run. This lets any air bubbles out.
Thanks again,
Joe
Also, I was going to change my trany fluid. Done this before on other trucks, but I understand my auto trans has a spin on filter inside. Any special tools needed or tricks to know?? Any help and comments appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom.
As for your xmission - I special-ordered he manual xmission myself. I do know that if you do not use the proper ATF+4 (synthetic) fluid in the automatic, you would be asking for troubles.
A bad PCV valve can also cause this, especially in the winter time when there's higher levels of moisture in the crankcase. The water freezes the PCV plunger as vacuum pulls air through the crankcase, causes reduced air flow (essentially closing the throttle) and stalls the engine. Clogged or partially clogged PCV valve hoses can do the same thing.
More serious things could be a bad crankshaft position sensor, a bad intake manifold gasket, or a defective catalytic converter, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump.
I'd start with the ignition components and closely inspect things. A vehicle that old is bound to have cracked rubber vacuum hoses. Check them all.
Best regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
If you have the 4.7 engine the automatic transmission is the 545RFE. This transmission uses two (2) filters. The primary filter is attached by a screw typical of older Mopar transmissions. Be careful of seal when installing the new filter. The second, oil cooler return filter is installed using a small oil filter wrench.
CAUTION: Only use Mopar ATF+4 (MS-9602)automatic transmission fluid, Chrysler part number 5013457AA. Do not use ATF+3 or any other type of fluid.
Best regards,
Dusty
Just because the check engine lamp is not illuminated, doesn't mean that there is no code stored.
Regards,
Dusty
thanks,
Tom.
Yes the gas mileage suddenly dipped. It was right after I had an oil change to a high mileage oil and a belt replacement to bypass the failing compressor for the A/C.
Thanks for the reply.
If this is a Bosch system, see if the throttle linkage is against the throttle stop on the base of the throttle body. If it's not, see if you can force the throttle closed so as the tang on the throttle linkage bracket contacts the stop.
If you can't, shut the engine off and remove the Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor from the throttlebody. Sometimes the motor becomes stuck when these have been in service for a while. Note that upon reassembly the arm must be in the correct position. If the throttle plate can close all the way with the motor removed, that is your problem.
If the AIS motor is okay, check for a vacuum leak. This could be a cracked vacuum hose, like a PCV or power brake vacuum hose. You could have a bad throttlebody base gasket, but I've never seen or even heard of one failing on a Mopar.
The #1 misfire bothers me a little. I've seen this caused by bad spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, or rotor. This is a common problem with aftermarket ignition replacement parts after a short time in service.
An irratic spark occurrence can cause the Powertrain Control Modules (PCM) to sense a misfire and cause some crazy behavior. I once worked on a Plymouth Acclaim that experienced wild and irratic transmission shifts after the vehicle had been operated for a while. As it turned out, poor quality plug wires were causing the PCM to receive hundreds of faults then the PCM lost control of the transmission. New plug wires solved this.
I worked on a Dynasty that had an irratic high idle and after a regular tune up with Mopar replacement ignition components the problem went away.
But for now I'd bet on the AIS motor being the issue.
Regards,
Dusty
You should try pulling the codes to find out what is causing the CEL. (easy to do with ignition-switch trick... search the forum archives)
My first suspicion is something got hooked up wrong. Look at the PCV valve again. It's not in the same place as the 2000-2004s.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks
2001 4x4 qc 4.7
However - If I check my oil about 2-3 minutes after shutting of the engine... the dipsitick shows EXACTLY where it should be. (because the hollow camshafts still retain the oil)
The hollow camshafts also mean it is easy to overfill the engine with oil. If you do not allow at least 20 minutes for the oil to drain when changing the oil, then the camshafts are not drained. If, under these circomstances, one adds the specified 6 quarts of oil, the engine will be overfilled.
I hope this helps explain some of your questions about oil-level in the 4.7L semi-hemi V8 engine.
Best regards,
Dusty
Joe
Some folks have reported that their gascap had to be REPLACED because it was defective internally.
There are two different fuel caps used on the Dakota in that year, one will have plastic threads, the other stainless steel (ORVR System). If you buy an aftermarket part, make sure that a replacement is of the correct type.
By the way, you can get a large evaporator leak code if the fuel tank is filled to 85% of capacity or beyond, which is overfilled in normal refueling.
Regards,
Dusty
Have you consided the TPS ? (Throttle Position Sensor)
Regards,
Dusty
They sold me on a long block O.E.M brand new factory unit.
2 weeks after driving it, it was back in the shop. Problem: Broken valve spring, and fuel pump.
About a month after driving it this time, back in the shop again. Debris in the fuel rail.
Needless to say, I started poking around the engine compartment myself and I don’t know what a new engine should look like but I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t include signs of rust, old oil pan, old valve covers and it would at least look like nuts and bolts were wrenched on.
I questioned the dealer to the point they almost threw me out and they had this how dare I question a 5 Star rated shop about such improprieties.
How do I prove or disprove weather or not they installed a new long block in my truck? With out costing me any more duckets!
Any advice would be Appreciated
If this repair has occurred very recently (days) I would ask to see the old block. They don't usually send them out right away. It might still be there.
Regards,
Dusty
As you you daring to "question" a 5-star shop... I would like to think this 5-star shop has provided you with a lonar vehicle while they work on yours and will not be charging you for correcting these issues.
Personally, I think the notion of a 5-star shop is a gimmick. Only the customers they know will give them a good rating are sent the questionaires. I used to go to a 5-star shop myself... and I never EVER received a questionaire from DamlierChrisler about my visits.
Well, I use to know what a short block was, but I've heard the term long block before but could never get a definition for it.
There is specific criteria for receiving the "Five Star" rating like the certification level of the technicians and their qualifications, certain tools on hand, etc. As far as the customer rating...I don't know.
I do know that if you fill out more than one questionnaire negatively you will stop receiving them! Conversely, if you have a history of positive responses you continue to get a survey.
In all honesty my current dealer is a peach. They've been great at accommodating me, give me a discount on parts and sometimes even the service. I have to say that other than a bad gas cap and two recalls, I've not had any other warranty work. I did complain about a slight clunk in the steering and they offered up an intermediate steering shaft and didn't charge me anything, not even labor.
I think they want my business.
Hey, got snow up there yet?
Bests,
Dusty
You would either need to fabricate your own homemade "special tool" -- or, the parts store that sold you the waterpump may loan-out any special tools you would need to replace the waterpump.
The "special tool" is described as "A snap-on 36MM Fan wrench (number SP346 from snapOn or CumminsDiesel) -or- Special tool 6958 SpannerWrench with adaptor pins 8346"
The drawing in the shopmanual shows that the special tool is inserted BEHIND the viscous drive unit and fanblades. (on the engine side of the fan)
BTW: The shopmanual also says the threads are RIGHT HAND. "Remove the viscous fan drive assembly by turning the mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from the front"
You may wish to get ahold of the instructions for replacing waterpump-- THere are some special precautions - like to NEVER EVERR lie the fan assembly in a horizontial position once it is removed. Doing so will cause the silicone to contaminate the bearing lubricant. (Fan bearing will fail soon after re-installation.) Another precaution is to ALWAYS use constant-tension hoseclamps. (not the kind with a screw to tighten)
dakota39 (newbie)