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Please let us know what exactly you would like to know about our “incidents” with the speeding and we will be happy to help you in any way we can. Looking forward to hearing from you.
I keep complaining about my emergency brake not working. And they tell me there is nothing wrong. The car lurches forward on a slight incline after you put it in park and take your foot off the brake and the emergency brake does not hold it. It rolls forward. They told me the same thing. No problem. It was checked out 4 times for that. 2 the first 5 months I owned the car. Now, you can actually put the emergency brake on and drive down the road. My friend was driving the other day and accidentally left the Emergency brake on as I told them to use it and they are not used to using it all the time. And drove a mile wondering why it sounded like they had snow tires on it.
Also, I fell and broke my arm in Feb. So it came up for inspection in June and I still couldn't drive the 30 miles to the dealer as my husband kept saying go to Hyundai in case there is something wrong. Well, there was always a noise in my front end they told me was nothing too. So, I went local to Midas. And our Midas dealer will look for things to fix to make money off you. He did my inspection and told me I had a front end problem and told me my front tires were going bad. I have 9000 miles on a 2 yr old car and he told me there were too many warranties on my car that he would not touch anything, but rotated the tires and told me my back tires were going to get ruined too. And he documented it.
I called Hyundai up where I bought the car. Took it in. Turned out I was driving all this time with a bad alignment. From day one of owning it!!! The dealership gave me a FREE front end alignment. Didn't tell me it was an alignment and dumb me does not know what toed in means. So I called Midas up and he told me that meant I got a free alignment. They were going to do it as a warranty repair, but on the bill wrote Dealership Customer Satisfaction Repair Free.
Midas told me that they knew my front tires were going to go and rather than have to replace 4 tires, they did this. As my tires on the back now are not very good. With only 9000 miles on them. And they had been rotated when I had nitrogen put in them a yr ago. At Hyundai who never said anything to me. I told my husband from now on I am getting my oil change at Midas and letting them look at my tires and keep on top of it. I will not get anymore oil changes at the Dealership even if they do send me free coupons.
I am annoyed over the fact I kept telling them and they said nothing wrong until I came in with bad front tires. I also think I need an adjustment to my Emergency Brakes but I know they will make me pay for that as they have been telling me from day one there was nothing wrong. I give up on the brakes not working right. I get tired of complaining to them. I figure my next oil change I will tell Midas to look at them for me and get that in writing and they KNOW I have been complaining since the car was first bought.
Consider having them view and comment on those quotes in their brochures right in front of you. And don't even waste time with sales and reception or service manager either. You messed around enough, make an appointment with dealership owner. It is not uncommon for them to not be very far away from their bread and butter.
Good luck.
Also, A/C throttle step-up solenoid adjustment might be responsible for a slight rpm increase, but not to any degree that brakes couldn't easily overcome.
This solenoid is designed to up the rpm of the engine to compensate when the A/C compressor cycles on, when car idling.
Now, all of this about acceleration when pushing the brakes gets me nervous, but I have to ask, is there a difference in where you're getting your car inspected? I mean, I've ben reading about people having problems in Ohio and NJ, but from my experience, neither of those 2 states have inspection qualities like PA (Where I'm from.) And I also wonder that about the people who say that they driving in winter is bad. IS that perhaps because they are not used to driving in snow?
I'm in no way saying that anyone is wrong, I'm just curious. Obviously, I don't own the car yet, but I loved it when I test drove it. And I only started to look at them because a friend told me how much he loved his '03. If anyone has any info on this, please let me know. I'm looking into buying in the next week or so.
The car got inspected by the factory representatives and supposedly they have found nothing.
However it was interesting on the lemon law arbitration, that their representative asked questions like they would know exactly what is going on, but have to deny it, not to lose money...
like "you had the cruise control on, right?"
The '03 model is 3rd generation, the '08 model is fourth generation, two very different cars... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Elantra
We do love out '08 model, except that small thing of fearing for our lives whenever driving it...
I have a 2010 elantra and been having brake in the morning,on the first time i use the brakes ,it seams like the brakes just grab and almost put you true the windshield almost got rearened a cupple times and after the first cupple times after that everything is fine on the brakes .
i had it to the dealer a cupple times on this and thay cant find anything wrong with it maybe there is someone out there that has the same probe or can help....
thanks in advance
Now after reading through this thread and some others, I'm wondering if it would just be a mistake. I love looking and seeing the common problems and things to look out for, but there seem to be a LOT of them posted here and from the looks of it, a lot of the dealers aren't too concerned about getting them fixed.
Now I am thinking of looking back at the Corolla and Forte.
Would any of you guys consider buying one again? Do you regret buying it now? I'd love to hear your thoughts. This car looked like it would be a great value from the reviews I had read, but after reading this I am wondering if they spent the money on a nice initial impression only to cover up problems to come soon after purchase.
I like to keep my cars for a long time so I do as much research as possible before I make a purchase like this. Thanks in advance for any advice or thoughts on this.
The only one that gave me a problem was my 2007 Elantra, whose braking system was not designed to function well in ice and snow, sub-freezing temperatures. Outside of that, the vehicle functioned well. My solution to the problem, which Hyundai did not acknowledge, was to give that car to my son who lives in San Diego. He loves it and it gives him 30MPG.
My 2000 Elantra was totaled when a driver ran a red light at 50-60MPH, striking me at the driver's door. The airbags and steel construction saved my life, with me walking away with a head injury and cuts & bruised. The engine was pushed slightly into the passenger compartment, but missed my legs by 4-6 inches.
My 2002 Sonata has reached well over 200,000 miles. Three months ago, Hyundai replaced the entire sub-frame during a recall. The car runs like it was new and gives me 32-35MPG on the highway. I expect this car to press 300,000 miles before I give it away to a charity.
My 2005 XG350L has the look and features of a Lincoln Continental/ Jaguar cross, rides great giving me 26 MPG on the highway, and was purchased on October 31st which is a key date for buying a Hyundai. I received a $3,500 rebate, a $1000 loyalty discount, and negotiated a deal that allowed me to purchase the car for $9,000 below sticker.
Would I buy another Hyundai- YES!
When would I buy it: late October or between Christmas and the end of January.
Factory and dealer incentives to unload the remaining last year models is highest and the best deals can be had.
As far as the little stuff goes, with a 60,000 mile bumper-to-bumper and a 100,000 drive train warranty, and 5-year road service package, Hyundai's are the best priced cars on the market and give you the most for your money as long as you service them on a regular basis.
I was thinking of purchasing this month only because they have some incentives and rebates going on right now. I'm not sure how often they run those or if they'll get better as it gets later in the year.
The most leftovers are found during the 3rd and 4th quarters of the year. Depending on model sell-through, the better incentives usually come at the end of the 3rd quarter through to the end of the year. In January or February, "floor-plan" needs can cause the dealer to take full ownership of the leftovers, complete with factory incentives, in order to eliminate high interest costs. At that time, they will highly discount those units to get their investment back, quickly.
Have fun shopping, and don't be afraid to pitch dealer against dealer, or counter the dealer's offer (realistically). A fun technique is to locate 2-4 vehicles that you like from the same dealer. Calculate your offer/s for all 4 vehicles, stating that you want to buy a car that offers you what you want at a good price. That you've narrowed it down to these specific cars, not favoring a specific one, and these are the prices that you are willing to pay. Tell them that if they want to make a deal, pick the one that works for them and you can then go forward, and that if they don't want to make a deal, you'll work with someone who will.
In this economy, they will want to deal. By making it their choice as to which car they want to sell you, they can calculate to the one that needs to get off floor plan.
Just make sure you make an offer that favors you, and that you've done your homework based on area dealers offers and prices.
Have fun...
It's only a game (that you should win)...
As I had mentioned in one of my previous posts, the lubricant that was applied a few times between the window and its seal, worked quite well. But, after a year, I am now starting to hear that noise again once in a while...
Would appreciate if everyone updates on their solutions for this problem -- what worked and what didn't. Thanks!
long story short--- hyundai is in denial over this problem & all i get from my service department is " cannot duplicate sound." i have even offered to drive the "techs" . If someone knows of a fix or what the problem is i would greatly apprecialte it. there has to be a internal service bulletin on this problem!!!
thank you for any advice!
If you drive your Elantra with the AC off, do you feel any heat around your feet? Do the center console plastic panels to the right of the gas pedal feel warm to the touch?
I noticed one day while driving my Accent with the AC off and the windows open, that it felt like a little space heater was right by my feet. The temp knob is all the way cool and when turning the vent on, the air coming out of the vents was outside temp air. But my feet still felt like a heater was blowing on them so I started feeling around the panels by the feet and noticed it was warm to the touch. I than made the mistake of leaning over and feeling the center console panel in the passenger footwell. I say mistake because I stuck my hand a little higher and 2 of my fingers came in contact with an exposed red hot aluminum pipe leading to the heater core. I burned my finger tips slightly. I was shocked for 2 reasons: one, that the pipe wasn't wrapped in some kind of insulation or hidden by the panel to keep from getting burned and two because the pipe shouldn't have been hot at all since the heater was not on (that is IF there is a heater valve blocking coolant from entering until the temp knob is turned up).
I'm thinking the heater valve is stuck open a little, but what throws that thought off is the air coming out of the vents is not heated and the AC works great. When the AC is on, the cold evaporator core (which is located right next to the heater core) offsets whatever heat the heater core puts off. I plan on mentioning this issue when I take my car in for it's first oil change, but might not if other Hyundai owners can chime in and let me know if the heater is designed to have coolant running through it at all times.
The cooler air thru the vents is quite common practice among many brands, regardless of where temp control is set. The theory being that 'high' or vent directed cooler fresh air keeps you alert, but try not to dwell on the fact that your fingers and arms are freezing off in the winter.
As for unprotected lines, most people wouldn't be sticking their fingers up there. Trust me, having a great, fast, HOT heater and COLD A/C is far more important.
Sorry to hear about the burn though. Did you run quick to put it in cold water? That helps a burn a lot. The faster you dip in cold the better. I guess u were driving tho..
I have the same problem with my Limited Edition 08. I figured out that this noise is coming from trunk. I lubricate the hinges and the rubber buffer and seems like the noise is gone. Looks like over the time hinges got dry and star making cracking sound.
I have an 06 Limited Elantra but have not experienced this problem. Worth a try.
By the way, I was doing the inspection while sitting in a parking lot. If I had been driving, I probably would have been introduced to a tree The contact with the pipe was brief enough that the burn was very minor, plus I went into a restaurant and got a few ice cubes on it about 8 minutes later and I think that lessened the burn. The pipe wasn't way up there though. If you open the passenger door and kneel outside, you can see the pipe plain as day. The plastic panel really needs to go higher to block this pipe from contact. Better yet, if the pipe had insulation on it, much less heat would infiltrate the interior.
Thanks.
rear door locks are making a clicking noise without being activated. This happens if car is on or off.
Rear park light is out on drivers side, bulb replaced. Are these related???
Is your skin dry? Use more moisturizer, that will help. And avoid synthetic clothes including underwear. Cottons and wools are better, altho I know many seem to be allergic to a pure wool. Also consider a seat cover. Of course though, avoid synthetic material. Some people's body make-up are more prone to static shock than others. But try to keep moisturized. That will help.
If you have static trouble at home, they say having more plants helps keep humidity levels higher which naturally helps fend off static. Certain shoe sole material will exasperate the build up of static also. Make sure you discharge a shock before touching your PC, btw. Static shock may not have much amperage to it, but it is extremely high voltage, which has been known to zap PC components.
The grd straps should work, providing they are attached to metal that is ultimately grounded to the chassis at some point. And of course they have to touch the ground in such a way that it is making contact. They wear down after a while and then don't reach.
I'll bet your hair is very fine eh? Greasy hair resists static. Maybe wash it every other day in winter?
Do you like your car in all other ways? Any troubles with it?
There are good suggestions above. A few other things you could try are to use an anti-static spray on your driver's seat once in awhile to see if that helps. Also I find when I wear my leather jacket, it helps reduce static as it's no longer cloth-against-cloth. Finally, you might consider recovering the seats in leather (a little pricey, but has other benefits also such as the nice aroma) and next time you buy a car, get a leather interior vs. cloth. I have very little static issues if any in my 2004 Elantra, which has leather seats.
The synthetic clothing vs cotton does make a big difference!
Mr_Shiftright, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #, 28 Dec 2003 2:14 pm
Let's keep an eye on that thread in case we get some good info that might help.
I'm posting the link so you may subscribe to that forum if you wish.
I had a '93 Mazda MX-3 that had a plastic button on the door labeled "touch". All it did was discharge your static without shocking.
You might also look into anti-static floor mats as an alternative. I don't know of any that are marketed as such, though. Premium mats like WeatherTech don't mention it, though being made of a form of rubber they may help.
I am the one whom is having the issue with static electricity in my 2010 Elantra. I have been reading all of your post and wanted to say Thank you for all the help everyone is trying to provide. Seems like a really great forum and very helpful at that.
Well to start off, I live in Dallas/Ft Worth area in Texas. I know that sliding across the seats also to a certain extent would normally build up static and I get in and out of my car all day long as I work in Hospice going from house to house. I do realize this does not help any at all. I have tried many many things to help eliminate the static.
It was suggested in the beginning that my shoes may be causing the problem so I switched to another pair and that did not seem to help much at all. I have tried spraying the static spray on my seats as well and it tamed but not gone by no means. I have tried the dryer sheets under the seats and carrying a whole box in my car with little success as well. I tried flipping my floor mats to the rubber side and that did nothing at all. I have tried the moisturizer on my skin and nothing. I have tried a deep moisturizer in my hair and nothing. I have went out and bought a brand new washer and dryer, thinking maybe that was the issue. I use 3 different things for static for my clothes now but it doesn't help. I have used seat covers as well. The problem is not only with my seat but the whole car on the inside. Front seats and back seats. My daughters hair normally sticks up the whole time she is in my car. My mother, which has long beautiful very thick healthy hair, not saying mine is unhealthy but it is very fine. My daughters hair is the same as my mothers and not fine. The problem isn't only with being shocked here and there. You can feel static all around your body like your inside some invisible force. Sounds kinda weird but it's the only way I know how to explain it. If it were me or my shoes then is shouldn't affect anyone else the way it does. I have never had such an issue with any other vehicle. I can't be the only one that is having this issue. I love the car other than this issue and haven't had any other issues except a bulb burning out. Also the it seems to shock others when I am now where around the car. It has shocked my husband and two different people trying to find and fix this issue at the dealership. I am so fed up with this issue I even had them appraise the car so I could trade the car in on another one and of course the dealership offered me only 10.5 on a car that I owe 14.7 on. We are betting it's more of a combination of the cheap materials used for the seats and some electrical device in the car where they took the cheap way out on the properly shielding the wire.
I can try the homemade remedy of the static spray and see if that helps.....Wish me luck
Here is something to try, to see if the problem is something special to your car or a general issue with 2010 Elantras: either find a 2010 Elantra on a dealer lot (should be possible to find one, new or used) or a 2010 Elantra at a rental car agency e.g. Hertz. And drive it for awhile... on day when you notice the static problem on your car (which seems to be EVERY day). If you notice the same static behavior on the other car, you can rule out some specific problem on your car. And you can decide if you want to live with your car as it is, or not. But if the other car is different, then the dealer can investigate further as to why your car behaves that way when other 2010 Elantras do not.
I'll second Backy's suggestion to drive another '10 Elantra to see if the problem follows you. It's good, basic troubleshooting to narrow down the source of a problem. If you have the static problem in a different Elantra then the problem is either all Elantras or something on your person. If it doesn't happen in a different Elantra then the problem is most definitely something in your car.
Best of luck!
So in your case, you have two things or more going on here. The high rev throttle and a vacuum brake assist leak. Does your car have cruise control?
I won't get into stability control and all that that can entail in trouble shooting your particular scene here, but i don't think your car has SC..so is moot at this time anyway.
But, remember, you still had brakes, but you would have had to push WAY WAY WAY harder than you are accustomed to when you have vacuum assist provided by normal engine RPM's even tho it seems you have a leak.
I was fixing my sun visor and shorted the wires which blew my acces fuse. I changed that fuse, but since then My dash lights, electric windows, door locks, trunk release, tail lights are all not working. I have checked all the fuses but they are fine.