We have a lot of starting/stalling discussions here. You didn't mention what kind of car you drive, but if you Browse By Vehicle using the box on the right, you'll likely find a repair discussion that you can post your question in.
Does anyone participate in other forums or blogs like this one? I'm just looking to find some more automotive technician forums or blogs. If you know of any worth checking out please let me know. Thanks.
I'd like to post a question about the sporadic burning smell in my 2004 Saturn Ion. It smells like the burning tar odor you get when passing a road repavement in progress. It seems to happen when the a/c is on. Smell appears for about 10 seconds then disappears. No visible loss in motor power, no change in revs, temperature gauge is solid where it should be and does not change. Is there a miniature road repair truck parked inside my air conditioning equipment...? Or is this a warning of something worse about to happen to some major part of the vehicle. I just bought the car two months ago, with only 33,000 miles on it. Everything seems to run fine; smell only started when weather got hot and I started turning on a/c.
I see you found the Saturn Ion forums, so that will be the best place to look for a response. It sounds like an electrical issue.. something getting energized while you first start the AC. I will say that my sister has a 2004 Ion as well (bought new), and it's been flawless so far.
I think I may have found the problem and thankfully it may not be electrical or serious at all. I looked through the operator manual and noticed this Saturn has a cabin filter behind the glove box. Took that filter out and it was COVERED with dirt of every description. The previous owner obviously did little if any servicing of the car for 33,000 miles. I changed the filter today and took a long ride with the a/c on full and not only did I smell nothing foul but the cold air with the RECIRC button on was wonderfully much improved in both volume and cold.
I also wondered about electrical, but the burning odor was not happening when I turned on the a/c, it was happening after the a/c had run a while, I now suppose with the air trying to recirculate within the car through that blocked cabin filter...Could I possibly get off so easy as a $10 filter?..I'm going on a long trip this weekend and should find out if the problem is now history or not...
Thanks for telling me your sister's 2004 Saturn is flawless so far...are these supposed to be mechanically reliable cars do you think? I bought it on a whim at the end of a tiring day of test-driving about a dozen used cars with immediately obvious deficiencies...this was the first car I test drove that everything seemed to work on that day, so I bought it...now I'm paranoid that I may have been too quick...
My sister is diligent about scheduled maintenance... she's at the oil change shop every 3000, no exceptions. Her mechanic likes her because he knows if she says something is wrong, then something is REALLY wrong.
Glad to hear it was just a clogged cabin filter in your case.
im planning on buying a car im totally confused people tell me new others used what i want is a rear wheel whith tuning capability but thats another question
im almost forced to buy a lancer rally or a new lancer if i gt the rally do the evo xii cheeks and hood and headlight fit its bretheren? if the new one has to come along are the evo x engine parts compatitble with its more cost effeciant copy?
and last a 350z for 17,000 with 40000 miles is it worth it to get it by credit? :confuse:
My guess is that you had the A/C on and everytime the compressor comes on it demands more power from the motor and thus the increased RPMs. The a/c compressor turns off when the cabin air reaches the desired temperature (assuming the car has automatic climate control) so then the RPMs would no doubt reduce...all of which would make it a "normal" occurrence. Also, you use the word "cruising" which I suppose means you had the cruise control on and that might also be adjusting power demands when you go around curves even on flat terrain.Just guessing from my own experiences with RPM watching...
We are in the market for a used, large SUV (along the lines of a Suburban, Tahoe or Expedition with 50K-100K miles). We're noticing many, many choices on the lots and from the sag in the tires, we're guessing they've been there awhile. Is Kelly Blue Book still a good indicator of what we should be paying given the run up in gas prices and the mileage these vehicles get?
We certainly feel our True Market Value pricing will work better for you. You can click the "Used Cars" link at the top of this page (just under the CarSpace logo, and next to Certified Cars) and enter the necessary info to get values for the trucks in your area.
Your new format in pricing of autos now has a "research" mode for each model of a particular car. However when you try to determine the standard equipment for trim group of a model , you now always get the base model std. equipment. Please change to the old format.
Unfortunately, we can't help there - completely different department. What you can do is, click the "Contact Us" link at the very bottom right of this page (in the gray strip) and follow the appropriate prompts. That will get your feedback to the right person.
I recently pulled out of a gas station and the passenger door got caught on something and the front part of the door got pulled outward. Mainly when I open but also when I close the door I hear a loud noise as the door is rubbing on the fender. How can I fix this? If I go to take it to get repaired will it cost alot of money? The door shuts fine and the only problem is that its pulled outward. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
You didn't mention what kind of vehicle it is, so for now, try the Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair discussion. Also look through the group for your specific make and model to see if there is an existing body repair discussion... use the make/model search boxes in the right margin.
Why was the "Stories from the Sales Frontlines" board made "READ ONLY"?
Tidster mentioned something about posts of "lesser quality" but that was the reason I found that board so much fun.
What do we have to do to get it back? Will a properly placed $20 bill do the trick or should we sacrifice a goat to the gods (Hosts) to get back in favor?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I recently leased a 2008 Impalaand before the deal was reached---I had asked both the salesman and the sales manager that the aftermarket wheels be replaced with 17 inch and asked for these 17 inch three times in making the deal on the car. When the deal was finalized and I brought the car back to the dealership for the tires to be replaced--they were replaced with 16 inch. He told me they were 17 inch and so I didn't look to see that they were really 17 inch and had a friend with me and we were going to dinner so I just drove off in my new car. When I got home later that evening I noticed that they were in fact 16's. The very next morning I called and told him that he lied to me and he would not return my call instead having the salesman call me. Bottom line---I had not gotten it in writing and so they said that he actually told me that he said that I would get factory tires which are 16's. I have taken this as far as I can with a complaint but they act as if I am the one who is lying about this situation. No one will help me and I am very unhappy with my car and have purchased Gm for many many years and even went back to the same dealership that I bought my previous car from. How can I get someone to listen to me---is a lawyer necessary--I have not made my first payment and have awaited replies to all the letter I have sent on this but I am just an old lady (67) who wants to cause trouble. HELP !! Can someone tell me what I can do or have I just been taken advantage of ??
The "Stories from the Sales Frontlines" discussion will be back in operation shortly. You may not have seen a number of messages that had to be removed but they simply had no place in our Forums. A brief recess was needed to prevent further escalation.
In desperate need of buying a vehicle. I don't really have much of a down payment. The vehicle I had has died. :sick: The guaranteed financing placing are telling me that because there is a recent vehicle repossession on the credit report that there would be a down payment. The down payment is way more than I have to put down. No one is willing to co-sign. And my insurance company and bank can not do pre-approved financing. Any suggestions on what avenues I could take would be appreciated. I'm stumped for ideas.
My suggestion and by no means am I an expert. If you just purchased the vehicle, you have a certain number of days that you can return a vehicle if you are unsatisfied. (You might want to research this.) I hate to say this, but if you have to make up something, besides the 17" tires then do so and return the vehicle. Maybe you can then get them to put the 17" tires on if they think you putting the vehicle back on their inventory. Just my 2 cents.
i have a 2001 hyundai elantra and it/s a great little car.100,000 and still going. recently i/ve noticed a humming noise which seems to be coming from the front wheels.could this be road or tire noise or could it be something else? thanks for any help.
A good place to start on how do diagnose whether it's a fuel pump or something else like an electrical problem that's keeping the fuel pump from running would be in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion.
I read almost everything I can about the difference between these 2, but there's information not talked about in the articles.
Right now, I need a vehicle for work. My company is going to reimburse me for miles which is currently .585/mile. I generally put between 30-35K on my cars/year.
This year, I am thinking of LEASING a new car, getting the lower mileage allotment, and then, at the end of the lease, just simply buying out my car. Even if I put 90K in the car in 3 years, I think buying it and then finacing it at the lower rate would be more beneficial to me as long as it's a vehicle I envision owning and it's reliable.
Am I out of my head here?
My example is that I want to get a Nissan Murano, Toyota Highlander, or Honda Pilot. All hte vehicles, after negotiating the prices, would make my payments at least $600/month with $2K down.
However, the lease on these vehicles reduces my payment dramatically, making it more affordable. However, the lease mileages are 15K/year and I will double that.
Like I said, if I plan on buying the car, does it really matter how many miles I put on it?
PLEASE HELP!! Time is running out for me!! Thank you!!
Dear Pat...I am looking at buying new 2009 H. Sonata with Leather interior and a bunch of other bells & wistles(no sun roof). I went to GTE Credit Union and have a 4.99 interest rate, they offered me an auto consultant to help me locate a car, she took me to the dealer and with out any haggling in about 10 minutes he gave me an offer. Msrp is about 23,000 his offer is 18, 500 is this good or can I do better...also GTE said that I don't have to pay the consultant....so does she get a cut from the dealer. If anyone else has made a deal I would love to hear about it ...Thanks
I am currently looking at changing careers and being in car sales seems like it would be something I would enjoy. I have enjoyed selling since I was a kid. My biggest concern is finances. I am currently making about 4k a month plus benefits. I am just concerned about being able to make close to that much on average starting out. I am in Las Vegas and am looking at working for a Mazda dealer. I know about the long hours, dead days, ups and downs of pay, rejection and all that. Does anyone have any input on how I would most likely do financially if I was a motivated and educated salesman? Thanks for your help.
How do I remove "Silly String" off my van without damaging paint and clear coat? Already tried soap and water, did not help much. It's been 48 hours or more since it was sprayed.
For the past two weeks I have done far too much research, test drove dozens of cars, read all the 'tips and tricks', read stories on dealer sneakiness, priced out similar models, read reviews, negatives, positives, road tests, 2009 sneak peaks....everything. And I think I'm going to make the plunge on Friday.
I've narrowed it down to the one car that I want to buy, will buy used only if the milage is right, otherwise going new. There is a reason I'm not naming the car and model here, I would hate for someone to chime in and say "oh, THAT car model, my brother in law's babysitter works for the manufacturer and did you know that if you wear an orange sweater to the dealership you'll get another $300 off, but only on odd calendar days in August and if you greet the salesperson with a limp handshake?"
OK, so this is why I'm freaking out:
For round numbers, let's say the MSRP is $18,500K, the Invoice Price is $17K. The fun starts when I see people in forums claiming they paid $18,225, $17,300, $16999 and on and on infinitum. I'm getting stressed out that I won't be able to nickle and dime these dealers into the lowest bragging price. I figure with that invoice price be happy with $17,500, pay my taxes and registration and get out of there knowing they won't fart in my car when I bring it in for service. But I'm losing sleep over the negotiation process and not getting the 'best deal'. Worried about the doc fee, the 'oh this has lojack' and '$40 for putting air in the tires' scam and everything else I've read about.
Wrinkle 2, the Edmunds appraised 2007 value of this exact car is coming up as $16K. Say what? I thought cars lost 20-30% of their value immediately, which should put this car somewhere in the neighborhood of $14K. Why the discrepancy?
Lastly, I have $20K in the bank saved up for this car, I want to just swipe my credit card and be done with it, but at one dealership they said I can only charge $1,000, the rest has to be a check. No big, but I want the miles on my card!
So dear Edmunds readers, can you give me an e-zanax?
Believe, I'm with you and have been there and done that and thought I was pretty smart and educated but still got screwed with this last new lease car---sso--- whatever you do---get everything in writing and ask every question and maybe even take a hidden tape recorder because these dealers and sales managers will LIE LIE LIE to make the sale and then will NOT support what they said and unless you have things in writing and maybe even sworn to and notarized----they will always win and we always LOSE. So-----good luck and hope you will WIN !!!! (Normally I am optimistic about most things-----BUT NOT A CAR DEAL !!!
As a matter of fact----good idea!!! Seriously---I will take a tape recorder when making the deal for my next car----that's for sure---I have taken my disappointment as far as I can ---even to GM headquarters and to NO avail----my next car will not be GM----maybe a little red wagon would be ok--we won't be able to afford one soon!!!!! I thought of a horse and buggy but the cost of horse feed is also high and then there is the upkeep----shoes, grooming, dependability, etc., etc. I have a friend in Florida that strictly takes a taxi to work every day---he made a special deal with them and he says it's less than a car pmt and insurance and gas. Maybe......?????
Kcram (in Pickups) pointed me once to a forum in which I could estimate the future value of my truck--but then I lost the link to the forum. Can someone please show me the way?
Comments
The Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion may also be helpful. Good luck!
kcram - Pickups Host
I also wondered about electrical, but the burning odor was not happening when I turned on the a/c, it was happening after the a/c had run a while, I now suppose with the air trying to recirculate within the car through that blocked cabin filter...Could I possibly get off so easy as a $10 filter?..I'm going on a long trip this weekend and should find out if the problem is now history or not...
Thanks for telling me your sister's 2004 Saturn is flawless so far...are these supposed to be mechanically reliable cars do you think? I bought it on a whim at the end of a tiring day of test-driving about a dozen used cars with immediately obvious deficiencies...this was the first car I test drove that everything seemed to work on that day, so I bought it...now I'm paranoid that I may have been too quick...
Glad to hear it was just a clogged cabin filter in your case.
kcram - Pickups Host
what i want is a rear wheel whith tuning capability but thats another question
im almost forced to buy a lancer rally or a new lancer
if i gt the rally do the evo xii cheeks and hood and headlight fit its bretheren?
if the new one has to come along are the evo x engine parts compatitble with its more cost effeciant copy?
and last a 350z for 17,000 with 40000 miles is it worth it to get it by credit? :confuse:
You'll find a wide range of opinions on the smart there.
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
Tidster mentioned something about posts of "lesser quality" but that was the reason I found that board so much fun.
What do we have to do to get it back? Will a properly placed $20 bill do the trick or should we sacrifice a goat to the gods (Hosts) to get back in favor?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
#4506 of 4507 Ways to make money by cgeek Jul 07, 2008 (10:40 am)
recently i/ve noticed a humming noise which seems to be coming from the front
wheels.could this be road or tire noise or could it be something else?
thanks for any help.
There's also a Hyundai Elantra Tires and Wheels discussion that may be of interest.
Right now, I need a vehicle for work. My company is going to reimburse me for miles which is currently .585/mile. I generally put between 30-35K on my cars/year.
This year, I am thinking of LEASING a new car, getting the lower mileage allotment, and then, at the end of the lease, just simply buying out my car. Even if I put 90K in the car in 3 years, I think buying it and then finacing it at the lower rate would be more beneficial to me as long as it's a vehicle I envision owning and it's reliable.
Am I out of my head here?
My example is that I want to get a Nissan Murano, Toyota Highlander, or Honda Pilot. All hte vehicles, after negotiating the prices, would make my payments at least $600/month with $2K down.
However, the lease on these vehicles reduces my payment dramatically, making it more affordable. However, the lease mileages are 15K/year and I will double that.
Like I said, if I plan on buying the car, does it really matter how many miles I put on it?
PLEASE HELP!! Time is running out for me!! Thank you!!
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
If anyone else has made a deal I would love to hear about it ...Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Already tried soap and water, did not help much. It's been 48 hours or more since it was sprayed.
I've narrowed it down to the one car that I want to buy, will buy used only if the milage is right, otherwise going new. There is a reason I'm not naming the car and model here, I would hate for someone to chime in and say "oh, THAT car model, my brother in law's babysitter works for the manufacturer and did you know that if you wear an orange sweater to the dealership you'll get another $300 off, but only on odd calendar days in August and if you greet the salesperson with a limp handshake?"
OK, so this is why I'm freaking out:
For round numbers, let's say the MSRP is $18,500K, the Invoice Price is $17K. The fun starts when I see people in forums claiming they paid $18,225, $17,300, $16999 and on and on infinitum. I'm getting stressed out that I won't be able to nickle and dime these dealers into the lowest bragging price. I figure with that invoice price be happy with $17,500, pay my taxes and registration and get out of there knowing they won't fart in my car when I bring it in for service. But I'm losing sleep over the negotiation process and not getting the 'best deal'. Worried about the doc fee, the 'oh this has lojack' and '$40 for putting air in the tires' scam and everything else I've read about.
Wrinkle 2, the Edmunds appraised 2007 value of this exact car is coming up as $16K. Say what? I thought cars lost 20-30% of their value immediately, which should put this car somewhere in the neighborhood of $14K. Why the discrepancy?
Lastly, I have $20K in the bank saved up for this car, I want to just swipe my credit card and be done with it, but at one dealership they said I can only charge $1,000, the rest has to be a check. No big, but I want the miles on my card!
So dear Edmunds readers, can you give me an e-zanax?
kcram - Pickups Host
thanks.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper