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But since the CVT hunting is "seamless" passengers take no notice.
I don't see a fluid change requirement at all for the 2011 Escape Hybrid with the CVT.
Not even the factory would suggest 30,000 miles..
Transmission "service"...
Or do you mean just "check" the ATF condition and level.
I know, historically, that the Ford Escape has had far to many drive line component failures but this still seems "over the top".
Plus most of the driveline component failures involved only the F/awd models. And even with that it is my "cut" that most of those failures involved only the PTO or the rear clutch/diff'l assembly. Those most likely arising from to frequent and/or inappropriate use of the "AWD" mode.
But then there is also the fact that Ford's adoption of TC to improve the overall safety, and reduce the driver's ability to abuse the driveline, of their FWD or F/awd models was seriously delayed as opposed to other marques.
Just joined. I am have the same type of problem. My Ford Escape (2005) starts to vibrate when I reach a speed about 15 mph and stop at about 18. It will keep vibrating while I am at those speeds. The vibration seems to be coming from the front drivers side. What is the problem and what is the fix? Thanks a lot for any help.
Best of luck - I know it's a major pain, but dog this thing until you get satisfaction. The dealer didn't build the car, but Ford did, and THEY owe you. :lemon:
Normal is @150k. Severe Service 30k.
Our '09 just had the 30k service, no trans service.
SPECIAL OPERATING CONDITIONS
If you operate your vehicle primarily in one of the more demanding
conditions listed below, you will need to have some items maintained
more frequently. If you only occasionally operate your vehicle under
these conditions, it is not necessary to perform the additional
maintenance. For specific recommendations, see your dealership service
adviser or technician.
Towing a trailer or using a camper or car-top carrier
As required – Change engine oil and filter as indicated by message
center and perform services listed in the Normal
Scheduled Maintenance chart
Inspect frequently, service as
required
– Inspect and lubricate U-joints
– See axle maintenance items under Exceptions
Every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) – Change automatic transmission fluid (except 6R80 and
TorqShift transmissions)
– Replace front wheel bearing grease/grease seals if
non-sealed bearings are used (2WD vehicles)
Every 60,000 miles (96,000 km) – Change manual transmission fluid
– Change transfer case fluid (4WD vehicles)
Perform the services noted in the preceding table at the specified
time/mileage (km) period either within 3,000 miles (4,800 km) of the
OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message appearing in the message center or
when the time/mileage (km) reading indicates service is due.
Example #1: The OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message comes on at
28,751 miles (46,270 km); perform the 30,000 mile (48,000 km)
automatic transmission fluid replacement.
Example #2: The OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message has not come on
but the odometer reads 30,000 miles (48,000 km); perform the engine air
filter replacement. (i.e., Intelligent Oil Life Monitor™ was reset at
25,000 miles [40,000 km].)
Google:
abolition hesitation downshift
So the firmware is designed to most closely match the FE of a CVT, and that means lots of shiftiness. Slightest perturbation in the roadbed, or slight additional, or lift, on the accelerator pedal and it will switch gears. The only way I have found to reduce this effect, SLIGHTLY reduce, is to drive with CC on as much as possible.
The re-acceleration downshift delay, 1-2 second delay/hesitation is the result of the "abolition" of the old ATF line pressure sustaining system beginning back late in the last century. You are trying to merge into a line of traffic, release the gas pedal slightly, the transmission upshifts accordingly, now you wish to accelerate to merge and there is no reserve ATF line pressure available for the needed downshift so DBW is used to prevent engine rising torque until the downshift can be completed.
The third new effect you are probably encountering is the new coastdown FULL fuel cut to conserve fuel. Lift the accelerator pedal completely at any speed and the ECU will shutoff fuel flow COMPLETELY and then sequentially downshift as roadspeed continues to decline to prevent the engine from stalling. Just before you come to a full stop fuel flow will be restored and a final upshift will occur. Unless you step on the gas the transmission will now not downshift into first until the vehicle comes to a full and complete stop.
I don't need diatribe about how the parts function together. The result of this POOR design is that the car is defective and dangerous in REAL WORLD daily use. This is 2011 and the fact that Ford has place a car on the market and continue to market it as such a marvel of technology and economy and reliable when the technology is poorly executed and then deny that there is a problem for them to address and give the value that the customers have been doubted into paying for. The fact remains, the car is defective, dangerous, and is destined for short road life because of extra heating of the internal parts that is cause directly by the unnecessary wondering shifting and holding back of engine torque that the driver has already paid for the gas to produce but it is now lost because the gear wasn't there when it should have been. Your Cruise Control suggestion is one that pisses me off; who uses CC while driving down the streets? This is not recommended for safety reasons and is not a solution for daily city driving. And just plain common sense while on the open road for fuel economy reasons alone. If I wanted a car held together with bailing twine and backyard snake oil suggestions like; “just use you cruise control and hope that you don't have to apply the brakes or anything like that!" "Then I would have spent thousands less and bought an old car!" (I bought a new car!) And it should shift without dropping gears with big boom sounds and leaving me stranded without power to get out of the way of quickly approaching traffic. And have been SCREWED BY FORD!! If you don't have any GOOD suggestions or can offer solidarity in forcing FORD to give what they promised in exchange for $25,000 for me and others; then I wish to hear it. "Do you?" I sound to me like you are a paid Ford apologist to monitor these forums to quail complaints by making them seem like its driver error. I have been driving over 44 years and have owned over 30 cars; "I know when I have a LEMMON and a DANGEROUS one at that!" I have been to this Rodeo before with FORD in the 70s. So I know when they are trying to sweep aside what should be a recall, unfortunately they haven't they haven't changed their methods since the disastrous head in sand burying of the Ford Explorer fiasco which resulted in the deaths of many of their loyal customers in the glaring national news media; before they finally called a recall of the cars. It’s a matter of what it cost for deaths as opposed to what it would cost to recall and repair” DEFECTIVELY DESIGNED and ENGINEERED PRODUCTS "Remember that?"
It is my intention to "WARN others" about this POSSIBLY VERY DANGEROUS DEFECT before they go auto shopping because the dealers will only let you know about it after you have bought one. And Ford spends more money in advertising than dose any other car manufacturer in the country and therefore no media these days will bight the hand that feeds them.
Just stating the facts as I see them.
To my knowledge the 1-2 second downshift/delay hesitation first occurred in several Toyota/Lexus vehicles of the '01-'02 era, timeframe. The shiftiness I first observed in a Chrysler Sebring. The coastdown fuel cut technique I descovered browsing the 'net.
The 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation is pure the result of a design flaw. A design choice that was made in the interest of FE.
These problems, poor design choices, are by no means limited to Ford products.
That will be like jumping into boiling water at a different point.
All modern automatic transmissions, industry wide, are now using these same fuel saving design techniques.
The best you can probably hope for is a warning signal, buzzer(?) that re-acceleration should not be attempted due to the lack of sufficient ATF line pressure.
Wow you have a lot of courage saying such oddity. Going back to GM would definately not be moving forward, at the very most a lateral move...if that!
But check ATF level just the same.
not sure if the Escape we are talking about is the Mazda Tribute derivative but, I have one (2001 model) and the O/D light started to flash a few weeks ago.
A week later I lost all transmission.
Transmission fluid in radiator and coolant in transmission.
I had a front end accident about a month before (hit a kangaroo) which necessitated a radiator repair.
still trying to figure out if the smack from Skippy caused the failure or whether it was just deterioration (car has done 90,000 Km - 55,000 Miles).
I would not ignore the flashing O/D light knowing what I know now.
Insurer has assessed the transmission fail as related to the head-on with Skippy (but they did say they hadn't seen it before).
Yay! Saved me heaps on the repair.
Lesson here is, if you have any front end hit, get the entire cooling system checked. Damage looked fairly superficial, no warning lights came on, no fluid bleeding on the road - just losing a bit of coolant over time. I suspect a piece of grille plastic may have punctured radiator in just the right(ie wrong) spot.
I only got about 200km (120 miles) out of it between the O/D light flashing intermittently and the cog-box giving up.
On the key thing, could just need some graphite sprayed into the lock mechanism, or lock lubricant (NOT WD-40!). Or, based on the repairs noted, may be substandard work when the steering column was repaired.
I would personally, take this car back and try another one. I have 5 Escapes, none of them act like this.
It likes the gear selector to be in "N" and sometimes you have to move it in and out of "N" to make it work.
I also think that sometimes if there is pressure on the steering lock that can cause the ignition key to catch a bit.