Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Lo and behold the car worked perfectly after that.
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-solutions-common-problems-how-articles/141117- -cruise-control-repair.html
Here is a link on how to perform a diagnostic that will hopefully help you find out what the problem is.
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/electrical-lighting/2002-99-taurus-cruise-- control-not-working.html
Meeko
We were always a Ford Family - owned 4 at one point. All had various "major malfunctions", with the exception of the Taurus which was totally defective. I don't think there is any part that we did NOT replace. My son was almost killed in that piece of junk. He was driving and a tie rod broke off and sliced through the tire, of course he lost control, but by God's grace, we still have him.
Yes, I'm in the midst of purchasing a Honda and will NEVER, EVER purchase a Ford product again!
FINAL NOTE: I've had the same mechanic for the past 30 years. He's one very honest, reliable and highly skilled man. He doesn't comment on vehicle manufacturers. However, I asked him how he really felt about Fords. He replied, "I just love 'em". I said, "really, then why aren't you driving one?" He said, "Hey, I only love 'em because Ford keeps my business booming. If it weren't for Ford's Frequent Failure to Function, I'd have to find a new line of work". He then pointed to the parking lot where 10 vehicles sat for repairs; 7 of them Fords!
I got lazy a week ago and ignored my low fuel indicator. As I finally pulled into the pumps, my 1998 Ford Taurus stumbled and missfired. The tank took over 13.5 gallons, therefore only 2.5 gallons were remaining on the bottom of the tank. The moment, I restarted the 3.0 liter engine the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. The manual says the light should go out after a number of cold starts, this has not happened. I disconnected the negative battery wire for about 10 minutes, the light disappeared, for a short while, then returned. If anyone has any suggestions how to resolve the light issue, would be much appreciated. I should add, that after the fuel was added, the car runs as smooth as it did before I pulled my "lazy" stunt.
1) Check your keys, there is only (1) that works properly when inserted into the starter slot as ONLY THIS KEY is programmed to work with your safety system. There is a short or program defect whereby the safety system fails causing ALL of the problems listed in this forum. If we unlock and open our front passenger door BEFORE getting into the driver's seat, the vehicle will not start. This is why mechanics everywhere cannot find the problem source.
2) We explained to a number of Ford dealers the problems we're having and asked for help. The reply is totally rehearsed by each dealer, "We've NEVER heard of that happening before".
3) In order to find the exact problem, you must bring the vehicle to a Ford Dealer, use the diagnostic tester ($100), where it will be be monitored to find defects.
Let's wake up and smell the coffee - Ford's safety system is totally faulty in all of our vehicles. I have no idea what the costs would be to fix them. Shame on Ford for their denial of any problems. We're the ones stuck paying for THEIR errors!
problems.
Anyway, I called my wife (she knows more about cars than me) and she had to drive 30 miles to come get me. Of course, when she arrived it started just fine and dandy.
While I was waiting for her to arrive, I asked the dude in the Walmart auto service area if it could be the fuel pump going bad. He said that my description sounded like it was something electrical. Then I remembered that for the last 5 days or so, the dome light was staying on for a long time--both when I went for a drive and when I parked it at home...it stayed on.
My Question: Is there some way that a mechanic can test the electrical system to see if the problem was electrical based? If not, then what can I do?
Thanks. :surprise:
ALSO - The windshield wiper control stalk sometimes fails to work (again intermitantly) Some central relay or switch componant has got to be intermitantly failling.
DO ALL THESE THINGS RUN THROUGH THE STEERING COLUMN? - IS THE MULTI-FUNTION SWITCH CENTRAL TO THE PROBLEM?
The MF-switch is about $100 (or less) but putting it in requires pulling the steering wheel - (there's a youtube video showing how).
So the dealer could want a few hundred $'s for the job.
MK
When this all started I was driving on the going about 45 and then the car just died, i thought it might be the battery, or starter so i tried jumping it off, nothing so i had it towed to my house, next day replaced the starter, and battery and still nothing not even a click or anything.
When i turn the key to try to start the car, all the lights come on, but nothing else. Any Ideas?
Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.
I will be having the battery and alternator tested today and will be checking for any obvious loose connections or ground wires. What else should I be looking at?