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jolt, causing the tires to break traction and provide little overall traction to propell
the vehicle. This can be duplicated with the car on a lift and all wheels free to rotate. On a slippery upgrade, if approached at 20 MPH or greater, the all wheel drive will stay engaged. Any ideas about what's causing the drive to the rear to be intermittant?
-mike
Tires are matched set of Michelin, all in good shape. Perhaps I should have mentioned that this problem is not new. It existed last winter, and I put up with it, but now that winter is here and my slippery hills have returned so has the problem.
Also bear in mind that the condition can be duplicated on a lift with all 4 wheels off the ground. My wife has an identical Subaru that behaves perfectly.
Thanks for the thought, but I still need help.
-mike
My Subaru Outback 2000 drives just great (recently overhauled tranny), but every time I have to stop at red light and wait, the whole car shakes badly, feels like it's coming from engine area (obviously). Thought it was timing belt, replaced, problem persisits. Replaced CV shafts, no good luck there, have no idea where it's coming from, BUT if I shift to Neutral, shaking stops. Any ideas?
I had the same exactly the same prblem with my 2000 Outback. It wouldn't engage when put in drive and so on. Whoever told you it was bad seals was right. I had my tranny completely overhauled and now it's just perfect, I know it's a lot of money, but your only other option is trade in. If you decide to do overhaul and live in southern Florida, find Ray's Transmission in West Palm Beach (use yellow pages or email me later, i'll find his business card), he's really good.
If this is a new development since the transmission work, perhaps something is not lined up quite right between the engine and transmission. It is remotely possible that the torque converter is not installed quite correctly into the transmission. If it is not mechanical, then it must be a sensor. Something like this seems mechanical to me, though.
Please let us know if you find out more on it!
Does turning on the a/c cause the vibration to stop? If yes, it's just the idle speed causing the vibration.
Jim
-mike
One last question before giving up, did you happen to install an exedy clutch? I ask because some friends of mine did a full flywheel, clutch kit, Master/Slave cylinders, etc. on a 99 2.5RS and they are having similar issues. Through their research they read that the exedy clutchs have a small screw that needs to be removed on the pressure plate prior to installation (we/they had never heard of this) and are in the process of removing and re-installing it.
-mike
I've had bad clutches that only slipped in the lower gears.
I also highly doubt it's the center diffy.
Here is another question. When it is slipping do you get the typical burnt clutch smell? I don't think you'd get that smell if it is the center diffy.
-mike
Did you try a junk yard? I would try to get the whole harness from them.
2) check the headlight fuses
3) verify that the wires are getting juice - I'm not sure what to do if you're not getting power to the plug.
Btw, do your taillights work? If not, you'd need to check the switch too.
Thanks
-mike
Fluid is OK. I topped it off....still had the problem. Then has my mechanic drain and refill....still had the problem.
What's the procedure for checking the shift interlock? Please advise.
A friend suggested the transmissions bands were slipping and needed to be adjusted. Does this make sense....most of my experience is with manuals/clutches not automatics?
As far as I can remember it was difficult to shift into 1st gear (and reverse) almost from the beginning. It's not really bad, but roughly every other time I need to wait a bit until it shifts. Sometimes it won't shift at all when the light turns green at an intersection, and I'm sitting there trying other gears or reverse to move the gears inside the transmission before it goes into 1st.
My dad is a mechanic and we've always been driving manual. We have replaced the synchronizer on the 1st gear, but shortly after that the problem returned. We have tried several different brands of oil, from standard to Mobil1, AMSOil and currently I have Motul.
We have even gone as far as modifying the clutch pedal to gain several mm of clutch travel, but to no avail. (The clutch has been replaced too along the way).
The way I deal with it is try to shift into first while the car is still rolling a bit before coming to a full stop, and then shift back into neutral after the gears have been properly aligned.
I tried a couple of new Outbacks recently and, while substantially better, they still don't have a precise shift feeling in the 1st gear. Did anyone notice this?
I believe some car reviews pointed out the imprecise shift feeling in Subaru manual transmissions.
Other than that the car is running well. I'm waiting for it to die so I can buy the Outback.
Any suggestions are appreciated,
Andrew
My '96 Outback had the same whine you describe for the last 70,000 miles I owned it. It slowly became more noticeable, but never caused any problems.
We have even gone as far as modifying the clutch pedal to gain several mm of clutch travel, but to no avail. (The clutch has been replaced too along the way).
I'm assuming you used the proper fluid. I forget the designations but the subarus use a different kind than "std" gear lube. The Std. Gear lube will kill your synchros.
-mike
Could be several things. First is the JDM gear ratio for the diffy the same as the USDM one? Another thing could be an issue with the front diffy (internal to the trans).
-mike
I do use their regular GL-5 in the rear diffy.
Trans shops want to get you in & rip it apart B4 they tell you the price!
problem is RANDOM & sometimes quite severe!
My friend has a 1995 Suburu Legacy Outback and her Alpine stereo stopped working the other morning. I just checked the fuse and it was intact, but I changed it anyway ... the new one also did not fix the problem. Does anyone have an idea what the issue could be? I think the stereo is about six years old (give or take) and it has not given her any problems until now. The other morning, it did not come on when she started the car. Then it worked and came in and out before dying for good.
She recently had a new alternator put in, so I am not sure if that is related to the problem.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks.
-Jason
I was thinking the same thing about the gear ratio. Now that it has dryed out, I noticed it will chirp the inside front tire when turning from a stop. I'm thinking its an internal problem. I doubt I could get lucky enough that it just be from it sitting around for a while and things being "stuck" together. Guess I need to go through my old tranny and rebuild it to get ready. Thanks..
Where's a good source for parts?
Chris
-mike
after about 5 miles of no problems the engine dies....restarts and lurches forward sometimes dying again while moving and certainly when I stop
It sounds like an engine problem, since it's the engine that dies. Sounds kind of like a clogged fuel filter.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I had no problems with the AT temp light though. If you just had the head gaskets replaced, I have to wonder if everything is hooked up properly. I would pop the hood and double-check all electrical connectors to make sure everything is seated properly.
Did you check the connector on the back of the radio to make sure it is seated properly? How about the wires?
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I literally just picked up the car from a Subaru dealership for service. This was my second trip in for this problem in the last 2 weeks. The first time they updated something computer related, but I noticed no change. This time it isn't throwing any codes, so they don't know what to do. They said they have a call in to tech support, but it has been more than 24 hours with no response so I just picked up my car. Any thought or advice on this problem?
I just had the transmission replaced in my '95 Legacy. One of the things it was doing in the very least was what you describe as "shuddering." Have you checked the transmission fluid level? This is done on level ground after you have driven a couple of miles to warm up the transmission and allow the fluid to circulate through the transmission. It's also done with the transmission in "PARK" and the motor running.
Though I'm not a mechanic I am a mechanic's daughter and have a tad bit of exposure to these things.
Oh yeah, one more thought: If the engine is idling at a super high rate perhaps your garage needs to adjust the idle. This would best be done on a "cold" engine start-up.
-Janis