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Comments
The fact that they tried not to honor your warrenty is because they have poor customer service and are disruputable.
I would not buy from this dealer and would recommend to eveyone to avoid this dealer...how long do you think they will stay in business if this got out?
Buy the way, the only dealers I've heard of that have tried this are in Texas and New York,,,,where are you located?
This would be the same for any PERMANENT AWD or 4x4 that cannot have the hubs manually released. Towing these vehicles will destroy the transmission/diff.
you are the very first person we have encountered that has had the same safety issue as we have had with a 2003 santa fe. to make a very long, bureaucratic story short, we tried numerous times at the dealer, with a hyundai factory rep at the dealer, with hyundai of america and with the maryland attorney general's office to rectify the issue to no avail: they could never replicate the problem with their diagnostics hooked up so in their mind there wasn't an issue. we lost our lemon law grievance (and all respect for hyundai since they denied our offer to keep the santa fe until the issue arose). we'd be interested to hear your story!
nomoresantafe
just wanted to validate what our dealer told us regarding the 60K service. call it once bitten, twice shy, but he claimed that if we opted not to do the 60K service and replace the timing bely, at 60,001, the warranty would be voided for any damage caused by a subsequently broken timing belt. True or not true?
nomoresantafe
my dealer told me even if I do not change engine oil at 3month/3thousand mile, will invalidate all the warranty, even in the owner manual it said 7500 miles( correct me if i am wrong).
the more tricky part is what if I change it at 4 month or 3100 miles? will it also be ok?
I guess it really depends on hyundai's reputation on warranty.
I have a 2005 santa fe in Dubai, UAE...and have the same problem.....car occasionaly "hiccups" whilist cruising on the motor way at 90 kpm.
Anybody have a solution ?
Regards
Don
Saw your post about changing the timing belt on your 2002 v6 santa fe. I have a 2001 4wd auto 6 cyl santa fe and am thinking of changing the timing belt and water pump on it myself. How did you get on when you changed you t-belt. What problems did you encounter, what sources of information did you find useful? Did you need any special tools/computers
Was the job worth while doing yourself? I am mechanically minded learner just changed the t-belt on my girlfriends vw jetta using bentely manual
Thanks in advance for your help
Patrick
Thanks for any help.
The coolant capacity is two gallons total. When I drain the radiator only one gallon will drain out.
I found a plug on the rear of the engine block in a very inaccessable area so I want to be sure before I start the attack strategy.
I know someone out there in Hyundai land can come through and help me. Man is great, man is powerful and man can do it. Please don't let me down Man!!
Sparcap54
Understand both vehicles call for 5W20 oil.
Was wondering what brands people are using.
I don't use the quick lube places and normally have the dealer change the oil but may start doing myself with Hyundai Oil Filters?
About the only place you can get the cartridge type filter that the 3.3 liter engine uses is the dealer.
Had thought about changing my own oil but now the plan is letting the dealer do it.
I will furnish the oil and will be using Motorcraft 5W20 Semi-Synthetic oil that one can buy at Wal-Mart, or Havoline 5W20 oil.
Have read good things about Hyundai oil filters.
If your dealer has 5W20 oil, you can let him do everything including furnishing the oil.
Many dealers use bulk 5W30 or 10W30 oils and that is the reason I bring my own oil.
Being retired we make quite a few short trips around town and that is the reason I will stick with 3,000 oil changes.
Plan on going on a 2,500 + mile trip next month and will have the oil changed just before heading out.
I never go to the quick lube places + they will not have the oil filter for the 3.3 liter engine.
At least here we find oil and filter changes cost less at the dealer too.
If you change your own oil, you can buy the filter at their parts department along with the O rings and crush washer that you need.
I am operating under the assumption that the dealer will charge approximately the same rate for the service whether you furnish your own oil or not?
Don't think you will find any of the quick lube places that have the cartridge filter + I have read that the OEM filters get great reviews.
The following web site has quite a bit of info on oil and other maintenance related items.
Link To Oil Info
I think that any SM GF4 5W20 oil will work well for 3,000 mile changes.
terryp1, "Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair" #5317, 11 May 2007 1:45 pm
I've never had any vehicle that required brake pad replacement prior to 80,000 miles. Then, I always use a light touch on the brakes (unless one of the many crazy drivers on the road forces something a little more drastic ). I have no reason to expect differently with the Santa Fe.
2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
Dark Cherry Red with beige leather interior
How are you caring for the beige leather interior?
I love the beige but feel like it would be a
nightmare to keep clean along with the beige carpet.
Any thoughts?
Flwonder
I also found a cheap light brown floor mat big enough for the cargo area.
I had leather on my old SUV which was a Taupe shade and it wore pretty well . I just used proprietary leather cleaner and conditioner on it, which worked just fine.
I was hoping for 50K miles for these tires with regular rotations at 5k or so. The 18" tires are more expensive to buy.
My last set of tires on a front wheel drive SUV obviously wore most on the front set,which I also had to replace at 35k. I had another set put on at 70k, so both sets lasted for 35k. I could have pushed them further, as they had just a small amount of tread left before the markers, but that's just not worth it. I shall have more regular rotations on the S.F.
I use Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner/Conditioner (comes in a spray bottle) on my leather seats. It does a nice job of taking any dirt off and keeping the leather soft. For most other surfaces, I use a product called Tech Stain Remover ( web site ). It's safe for the surfaces and does a nice job on stains. My wife really likes it for around the house.
I bought a nice set of rubberized floor mats in a tan color that goes nicely with the beige interior. My SF came with the Hyundai ones, but I find from past cars that the lighter color carpet type floor mats quickly get dirty and are tough to keep looking nice (I've always had beige interiors). So I took the original ones out from the front and replaced them with a set of heavy duty tan rubber SUV-sized mats with deep grooves (bought them at Meijer). They fit perfectly without trimming. Now I can just take them out and hose them off and scrub them when I wash the car and they look great. I even cut out a hole in each mat to fit over the retention pin in the floor. For the second row, I just put the smaller rear seat tan rubber mats on top of the Hyundai mats. I did not get anything extra for the third row and just use the Hyundai mat there since it is rarely used. I have the Hyundai cargo tray to protect the rear cargo space floor.
So far, my interior still looks like brand new :shades:
2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
Dark Cherry Red with beige leather interior
Thanks for your help. Sounds like you
are taking good care of the light interior.
Flwonder
you for the answer. I have used the heavy,
expensive mats on my last two cars. Got them
from McNeils. They do a good job. Looks
like the light beige will require a bit more
maintenance but worth it.
Flwonder
That said(tm), I've seen front pads need replacement as early as 20,000 miles (rarely) and as late as 100,000. Replacement of front pads in the 50-75,000 mile range is fairly typical. I start checking mine periodically once I hit 40,000 miles.
To add to it, remove the 4 nuts and 2 bolts from the plastic cover (use a 10mm socket) and remove the cover.
The oil filter is under a large black round cover on the right side, close to the air intake.
Spin it off by hand or use a regular oil filter wrench. The Fram CH9999 filter came with new o-rings for the end of the shaft, that the oil filter goes over, and the cap.
I used Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (also available in 5W-20).
I changed the oil at 6500 miles (manual recommends 7500).
I think the "every 3000 mile" campaign is a scam.
Winters are usually low 20's or high teens nights and low 50's in the day . High Desert of Reno Nevada (about 5000ft level at my house)
Their reply sounded reasonable, that because of the severe temp swings we have here
They only chg $32 so I figured why mess with it for that price...I am used to doing my own...(gotta protect that warranty...No squiggle room for anyone!!)
BTW: there are TWO Castroil synthetics...the common one is made here and is not the same high quality as the German one...the common one is marked for use in the USA only on the back. I think Pep boys carries the higher grade Castroil Synthetic (Used to drive a Mini Cooper and found out on their forum! With the heat thrown out by that little supercharged engine...you wanted to use the good stuff!
if they try it on the winter oil chg, I am bringing my own 5W20 with me. That would make for easier starting and better engine running in the cold of winter here, although we usually have low 50's day and low 20's nights in the winter....this year it got down to -2 a few times!!!! I had a Honda Element then and it used 5w20...glad it did since it took quite a while to warm that 4 banger up to running temp at that ambient temp! (I kept it in my garage too, where the SF now resides)
BTW: My dealer is a good one and has been very cooperative. I showed up 4 months after purchase, the GM walked by and actually remembered my name when he stopped to chat! Then and again, maybe it is because it took 4 trips and numerous phone calls to sell me...(thanks to this forum!) he even remembered the Element I traded :shades:
COMMENTS PLZ??
I learned about 303 Protectant when I had my all leather Mini Cooper. It does not leave a visible trace, and works like a charm. You can usually get it at Hot tub stores or RV places and it is well worth the $$.
With Leather, I would first use Connaly (spelling?) Hide Food conditioner and then after it dried, put the 303 over it. Hide Food conditioner is recommended by Rolls Royce if that means anything...the leather in the Mini Cooper was Cordova and very soft and supple....we took many trips to the mountains at over 7500 ft and the leather never showed a trace of cracking or color fade. There were Minis in our group, where the Vinyl or leather had obviously not been treated to anything and it showed....No, I do not work for them either!
We all (we had a great Mini Cooper Club) took a great deal of pride in the Mini's detailing and I used the 3 step Mequires wax system with a porter cable random orbital polisher...If you are REALLY into it...use a CLAY BAR before waxing...it will come out like a baby's behind...Of course the SF is a BIT bigger to wax than the Mini was
That's great if it's only 72 deg. outside - not 108.
Has anyone already done a paint protectant treatment? - results? Good/bad? Does it invalidate the warranty on the finish? When WOULD be agood time to do it - Phoenix has high UV and 355 days a year full sunshine - 10 days of rain a year if we're lucky.
Any info greatly appreciated.
Mr_Shiftright, "Teflon Paint Sealants Revisited" #7, 10 Jul 2003 10:33 am
There's a lot of posts about various kinds of wax (and paint protection is generally wax) you may want to skim over in Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts) while waiting for responses in here. And check out Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair too.
We have 3 cars, all less than 2 years old. The above procedure is the only one that's ever been used on any of our cars. All 3 cars are completely free of spiderweb scratches. The keys are:
Washing in a shaded area
Using the Mr. Clean AutoDry System
Using only clean microfiber cloths to wash
Rinsing the cloth in a bucket of plain water after washing each section of the car
Letting the car air dry (use of leaf blower is OK) so that nothing comes in contact with finish during drying